Egypt & Jordan 2008 (Birdquest)

EGYPT and JORDAN 9 - 26 OCTOBER 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW This year’s Birdquest tour to Egypt and Jordan was the first for many years to combine the two countries, a successful union that introduced a visit to the spectacular setting of ancient Petra and the stunning desert scenery of Wadi Rum. We acquired a birdlist of 181 species, which in Jordan included great birds such as Sooty Falcon, Syrian Serin, Sinai Rosefinch, Palestine Sunbird, Scrub Warbler and the first record of Yellow-browed Warbler for Jordan. In Egypt our explorations around Cairo added Kittlitz’s Plover, Greater Painted Snipe, Senegal Thick-knee, Senegal Coucal, White-tailed Lapwing, White-throated Kingfisher and Streaked Weaver. Around the deserts and mountains of Sinai we found Lichtenstein’s and Crowned Sandgrouse, Tristram’s Starling, White-crowned, Mourning and Hooded Wheatears, while around the Red Sea we found White-eyed, Sooty and Armenian Gulls, White-cheeked Terns, Brown Booby, and many more Sooty Falcons. Migration is a strong feature at this season, and we witnessed a strong raptor passage over Sinai that included Short-toed, Bonelli’s, Booted, Imperial, Lesser Spotted and Greater Spotted Eagles and Levant Sparrowhawk. Our final stop was at Abu Simbel, near the border with Sudan where African species such as Yellow-billed Stork and African Collared Doves appeared, plus Spotted Sandgrouse, Lanner, Isabelline Shrike and Greater Hoopoe Lark. Where antiquities and birding overlapped, we had memorable sights such as the adult Bonelli’s Eagle soaring over the slope of the Great Pyramid, and lines of migrating Great White Pelicans drifting over Karnak Temple. We also visited the Step Pyramid of Saqqara, St Catherine’s Monastery in Sinai, the Temple of Hatshepsut, the Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel, and viewed the tomb of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings as well as his treasure in the Egyptian Museum. Arriving in the great city of Cairo in the late evening, we rose early and headed out to the saline lakes of Wadi Natrun. Our main target of Kittlitz’s Plover gave itself up rather quickly, and we enjoyed good views of ten of these African species here at the northern end of their world range. We also found Little and Common Ringed Plovers, Kentish and our first Spur-winged Plovers, Little Stints, Green Sandpiper, Crested Lark, the resident red-bellied race of Barn Swallow, Tawny and Red-throated Pipits, Egyptian Wagtail, Isabelline Wheatear and Graceful Prinia. We also enjoyed a great look at Richard’s Pipit here, a scarce winter visitor to the country. We sped back towards Cairo in order to visit the Great Pyramids of Giza, an experience that was enhanced by a Bonelli’s Eagle that floated in over our heads, interrupting our guide and giving a great view as it flopped down onto this man-made mountain. We also visited the Step Pyramid of Saqqara, reputedly the oldest building in the world, and in the surrounding area we saw our first Squacco Herons and Pied Kingfishers. The next morning we went exploring marginal wetland habitats within the delta of the Nile, an area of intense agriculture that has a surprising amount to offer. Around fishponds we found Black-shouldered Kites, White-throated Kingfishers, Senegal Thick-knees, Black-crowned Night Heron, Whiskered Tern, Clamorous Reed Warbler and Spanish Sparrows, and in swampy paddyfields we stumbled upon a busy collection of Green, Wood and Marsh Sandpipers, some migrant White-tailed Lapwings and some super-cryptic Greater Painted Snipes preening in the stubble. After a thrilling mornings�Ebirding we pitched back into the Cairo traffic, and made an introductory visit to the remarkable Egyptian museum. We lunged through the crowds of excited tourists, and stood in awe before the solid golden death mask of Tutankhamun. Once more visiting the delta (although the driver’s mis-navigations meant that we saw more of it than had been intended!) we managed to unearth a skulking Senegal Coucal, and a Streaked Weaver that popped out of the tall grass. Overhead some Red-footed Falcons hawked for dragonflies, we found our first Green Bee-eaters and migrant Common Redstarts, and a Jack Snipe shot out of cover. We then headed eastwards towards Ismailiya and Lake Timsah where we found Sandwich and Common Terns and Slender-billed Gulls, and in a well-manicured garden we found Common Bulbuls and Eurasian Hoopoes. We watched the giant ships slowly gliding down the Canal past the town of Suez, with the seemingly ever-present police and security men buzzing around us anxiously as we spied upon their House Crows, Caspian Terns and Armenian Gulls. Before the day was done we found a flock of White-eyed Gulls, our first examples of this Red Sea endemic. The next sunrise was over the Gulf of Suez, and a pre-breakfast survey of the hotel garden revealed Lesser Crested Terns, Rock Martin, Blue Rock Thrush, Masked Shrike and Whinchat. Moving swiftly on, we sat back as the desert roads unfolded in front of us, and we sped through the tunnel into Asia and onto the Sinai Peninsula. A cloud of raptors slowed our progress, as Steppe Buzzards, Eurasian Griffon Vultures, Steppe and Short-toed Eagles cruised overhead, and a walk around some desert bushes produced Southern Grey Shrikes, Mourning and Desert Wheatears and a Common Quail. Further stops en-route brought us our first Tristram’s Starlings, and arriving at St Catherine’s we had a quick look up the monastery valley and saw our first White-spectacled Bulbuls. The next morning we revisited the monastery valley, finding some Desert Larks and Tristram’s Starlings that were perched on the heads of Camels! We had a look around the Monastery itself, before it was time to leave for the port of Nuweiba from where we were to take a ferry to Aqaba. Many hours later, and after a rather tiresome journey, we arrived in Aqaba in time for a late dinner. Having come all this way with the intention of seeing Petra, it was something of a disappointment to be told that the King of Jordan was visiting Petra and consequently all the hotels there were block-booked, with all existing reservations thrown out! We set off early the next day to reach Petra soon after dawn, and on arriving are met by some delightful Palestine Sunbirds in the car park, the only ones of the tour. We walked down through the long, narrow and spectacular gorge known as ‘the Siq�E through which one must walk to reach the actual site of Petra. Mercifully free of the crowds here in the early morning, we found gorgeous Sinai Rosefinches hopping around the tea shops, the confiding rosy males glowing like the rocks around them. Retreating back uphill, we found a pair of Blackstart and an obliging Scrub Warbler before we headed into the nearby town for some lunch. From here it was a short drive to Wadi Dana, a huge and spectacular valley that stretches from the plateau down to the Dead Sea below. We explored the pomegranate orchards around the village here perched at the head of this dramatic wadi, and our target of Syrian Serin gave itself up fairly quickly. We watched up to 20 of these delightful Finches, buzzing around and feeding on seed heads. A surprise came in the form of a vagrant Yellow-browed Warbler, while some less unexpected migrants included a flock of European Bee-eaters, Common Redstart, Blackcaps and Masked Shrike, plus we found Great Tit, Common Blackbird, European Greenfinch and a Bonelli’s Eagle. On our homeward journey across the high country we found a handsome Long-legged Buzzard. The following day we visited the impressive desert landscapes of the Wadi Rum area, where in roadside fields we found Isabelline and Eastern Black-eared Wheatears, and arriving at a desert camp we had close encounters with some more delightfully pink Sinai Rosefinches. We jumped into pick-up trucks and drove out towards the wide desert horizons, and around tall crags we found a pair of Sooty Falcons defending their territory against a couple of passing Red-footed Falcons, plus a Red Kite cruised over �Ea rare migrant here. Further explorations revealed migrant Spanish Sparrows, Tree Pipit, Desert Larks, White-crowned Wheatears, Scrub Warblers and Brown-necked Ravens. We retreated to the luxury of our hotel at Aqaba, the garden of which acted as a minor migrant trap and hosted Bluethroat and Red-backed Shrikes. Then it was time to move on, and for more ‘hurry-up-and-wait�Eon the way back to Egypt. Another time-absorbing transfer, yet it seemed to a smoother experience when in the hands of the Jordanians! We duly arrived at Nuweiba, re-found our passports and extracted our baggage from a chaos suggestive of wartime refugees, not the every day business of a busy port! A fast transfer to our luxurious hotel at Na’ama Bay followed, back into the bosom of cocooned tourism. Na’ama Bay is a relatively new strip of resort hotels on to the shores of the Red Sea that is expanding all the time, so needless to say we headed away from all this comfort and headed for the sewage farm at dawn! This is a hugely productive (and pungent!) site that we visited on three occasions, all of which provided exciting birding. On our first morning we became acquainted with the hundreds of White Storks that gather here and in the adjacent desert on their passage southwards. A few Black Storks joined them, as did an immature Great White Pelican, plus some Red-rumped Swallows, Red-throated Pipits, Bluethroat, Common Stonechat, Eurasian Teal, Northern Shoveler, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Northern Lapwing, Black-tailed Godwit, Ruff, Common Greenshank, Green Sandpiper and Little Stints. A flock of Crowned Sandgrouse flew into drink on two mornings and gave us all good views, though the vocal and crepuscular Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse weren’t so obliging, only offering flight views in the gloom. A Great Snipe showed briefly then managed to give us the slip �Eno mean feat on vegetation-free concrete banks! The adjacent desert was home to three Hooded Wheatears that were well received, this low-density desert dweller is frequently hard to find. Raptors featured strongly here, with both Greater and Lesser Spotted Eagles sat around the ponds, Black Kites loafed about in the desert and a Peregrine went zipping along the banks. The southward migration was evident with some lovely Levant Sparrowhawks that casually drifted past, and on our second morning we enjoyed a real spectacle as the weather conditions precipitated a deluge of southward bound birds. White Storks streamed in from the north, with some 10,000 estimated, many dropping in for a drink of dubious quality. Joining the airspace were many Lesser Spotted Eagles, a couple of Greater Spotted Eagles, a single immature Imperial Eagle, immature Bonelli’s Eagles, a single Short-toed Eagle plus Booted Eagles of both morphs, Egyptian Vultures, Steppe Buzzards and a vocal group of Common Cranes. This was a great finale to our stay here; perhaps the most productive place on the whole tour, and a comfortable station in which to re-orientate ourselves. The nearby southernmost point of Sinai lies within the National Park of Ras Mohammed, and here we enjoyed some great snorkelling around easily accessible coral reefs, plus some avian delights such as Southern Grey Shrike, Desert and Mourning Wheatear, Slender-billed Gull and Greater Sand Plovers. A short flight from here took us across to Hurghada, and another splendid hotel with a shorefront that offered a few pre-breakfast birds such as Greater Crested Terns and Eurasian Whimbrel, plus a scattering of Common Redstarts, Red-backed Shrikes and Lesser Whitethroats. We took a boat out for the day, to investigate what might be lurking around the desert islands that lie off the coast here. We found a lively flock of White-cheeked Terns, Lesser Crested Terns and Brown Booby, while the White-eyed Gulls that followed our wake attracted the first of several Sooty Gulls, so close you could almost reach out and touch! Ospreys occupied a nest, and Sooty Falcons were active over all the islands, their breeding season presumably in full swing at this time. The bright azure waters here also provided some fantastic snorkelling, completing what was a very pleasurable day. Moving on from here we were obliged to join a convoy of tourist buses across the Eastern Desert to Luxor. A feature of travelling in Egypt these days is the extraordinary amount of security and police control on the roads everywhere, and not just in the tourist areas. Consequently few birds are seen on these rapid transfers between tourist resorts, however our hotel in Luxor enjoyed a wonderful riverside location, with a splendid garden that came complete with Nile Valley Sunbirds feeding in the flowering trees. The view of the Nile from the restaurant produced Egyptian Geese and Glossy Ibis, and Little Owls yelped from the rooftops. On our first afternoon here we visited the impressive Karnak Temple, and were thrilled by the sight of a large flock of Great White Pelicans drifting southwards high above our heads. A visit to the Valley of the Kings is a must for any visitor to this country, and here we viewed some of the best-decorated tombs. Among these is the must-see Tomb of Tutankhamun, now complete with the corpse of the boy himself! We also visited the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and the Colossi of Memnon, and following this we had a gentle afternoons birding around Kings (formerly Crocodile) Island where we found Senegal Thick-knees, Green Bee-eaters, European Turtle Doves, Purple and Striated Herons, Little Bittern, Egyptian Geese, Western Marsh Harrier, African Swamphen and many Nile Valley Sunbirds. Our next destination was Abu Simbel, home of the Temple of Ramses II that was moved uphill piece by piece when Lake Nasser was formed. We flew across the flat featureless desert and arrived on the shores of this huge manmade lake, and enjoyed the last Temple of the tour by both day and night. We also enjoyed some of the best birding on the whole tour here, and were able to explore some rich new areas. We found migrant Wheatears abounded with numerous Desert, Isabelline and Northern Wheatears joining the resident White-crowned Wheatears, Red-throated Pipits outnumbered the many Black-headed, Blue-headed and Egyptian Wagtails, migrant Great White Pelicans joined Greater Flamingo and Eurasian Spoonbills in the shallows, and a Yellow-billed Stork obligingly stood on a large rock. As we bashed the bushes we found an Isabelline Shrike, Clamorous Reed and Sardinian Warblers, while the resident Graceful Prinias and Crested Larks were abundant. We found flocks of Spotted Sandgrouse feeding on sandy flats, a quartet of African Collared Doves, plus Greater Hoopoe Lark, White-tailed Lapwing, Kittlitz’s Plover and Senegal Thick-knee. Gull-billed Terns patrolled the shores, a Lanner caused a panic and the Yellow-billed Kites showed some unusual plumages to ponder over. We ended our tour with a rapid drive across the desert to Aswan, followed by a punctual if rather tortuous arrangement of flights back to Cairo. From here we headed home, content at having enjoyed such a memorable and action-packed tour, in a country that still retains a chaotic element despite the glossy finish of its tourism industry. This tour is a great one for its world-class antiquities, plus some great birding that combines the specialities of these desert regions with the spectacle of the southward migrations. SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: Great views of up to three adults both perched and fishing, around the islands off Hurghada. PHALACROCORACIDAE Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Large flocks of these flying up and down the lake at Abu Simbel. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: An immature at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds gave us good close looks, then at Luxor we were thrilled by a flock of 185 that appeared in the air over the Temple of Karnak, providing one of the most arresting sights of the whole tour. We also found many more at Abu Simbel, where small flocks were seen often around the lakeshore. ARDEIDAE Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: One was seen lurking in the reeds at Crocodile Island, Luxor. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Seen on a number of occasions, with some 150+ seen near Bilbeis, a single at Sharm El Sheikh, and a handful at Luxor and Abu Simbel. Striated Heron Butorides striatus: Several gave good views around Crocodile Island at Luxor. One was also seen in flight near Bilbeis. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Very numerous along the Nile, and particularly in the Cairo area where they follow the farmers closely and without fear! Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: These were in good numbers around the Abbasa fishponds and other wet areas around Cairo. Also found at Na’ama Bay, Luxor, and commonly around Abu Simbel. Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis: We found examples of these at Ismailiya and around the Gulf of Suez, and also at Ras Mohammed and on the Hurghada islands. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Seen regularly in the wet habitats along the Nile, at Na’ama Bay, and very commonly in the Bilbeis area. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Seen throughout much of the tour, from the Delta region right down to Abu Simbel. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Two were seen at Crocodile Island, and another was disturbed from the shores of Lake Nasser. CICONIIDAE Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis: A single example of this African species seen on the same rocky perch two days running at Abu Simbel. The red face and long yellow bill were clearly discernable. Black Stork Ciconia nigra: One was seen distantly at Suez, then up to seven showed well around the Na’ama Bay sewage works, all of which appeared to be immatures. White Stork Ciconia ciconia: At Na’ama Bay we met thousands of these, with several hundred hanging around the sewage ponds while many more stood around in the desert. Our final morning there was busy with thousands of birds streaming southwards, on what was obviously a good day for travelling! Quite a few corpses were evident around the sewage ponds, but if these are the only casualties from tens of thousands of migrants, then I think there is little to be alarmed about. We saw six more around the shore of Lake Nasser, in quite a different setting! THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A single was seen near Bilbeis, then more were seen along the Nile at Luxor and at Abu Simbel. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: A healthy number were encountered at Abu Simbel, where a flock of 120 stood in the shallows of Lake Nasser. PHOENICOPTERIDAE Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus: A single bird flew in to join the above species at Abu Simbel. ANATIDAE Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus: Our first examples were visible on the Nile from our hotel at Luxor, then we saw a good number at Abu Simbel. It’s nice to see some ‘real ones�E(or perhaps you need to live in Norfolk to fully appreciate that!) Eurasian Teal Anas crecca: Four were in a mixed Duck flock at Na’ama Bay sewage works, then another four joined Shoveler at Abu Simbel. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Two flew down the Nile at Cairo, and four were seen at Luxor. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: A flock at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds varied in size between our visits, with a maximum of 15 seen together. Garganey Anas querquedula: At least four were with the above species at Na’ama Bay. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: At least two joined the mix of Duck at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds, two were seen in a flooded field near Bilbeis, and a group of six were seen at Abu Simbel. ACCIPITRIDAE Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Our first were near Bilbeis, then several more were seen over fields in the Luxor area. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Quite a few migrants seen around Na’ama Bay, particularly on our final morning when 30 or more were airborne. We also saw individuals at Hurghada and Abu Simbel that appeared to be of this migrant form. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius: Plenty were seen at Abu Simbel, with some distinctive looking juveniles. Also seen around Cairo and Luxor. Red Kite Milvus milvus: One of these surprised us as it cruised over the crag tops at Wadi Rum. Apparently a very rare migrant in Jordan. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Several migrant birds were seen around Na’ama Bay sewage works. Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: Two birds passed overhead near Oyun Musa together with Steppe Eagles. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus: Some eight birds were seen on migration near Oyun Musa together, then a single bird showed very well over the sewage ponds at Na’ama Bay. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Two singles were seen along the Nile at Luxor. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus (NL): A male was seen distantly by the lakeshore at Abu Simbel. A likely contender also flew by at Na’ama Bay, but a sure identification wasn’t possible. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Several single migrants were seen around Sinai and over our Hurghada hotel. Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes: We had some great looks at males, females and immatures around the sewage ponds at Na’ama Bay, with at least 20 seen heading south on our final morning there. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Small groups of these were seen migrating southwards at Oyun Musa, Na’ama Bay, and at Petra where a group of 20 were soaring distantly. All would refer the race vulpinus or ‘Steppe Buzzard�E Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: A single well-marked bird was watched over the plateau country near Wadi Dana. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina: An immature sat forlornly by the sewage ponds at Na’ama Bay unconcerned by our close approach, then on our final morning there we enjoyed multiple good views as 25 birds headed overhead southwards. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: A single was seen on migration near Oyun Musa, two well-spotted immatures were loafing around the Na’ama Bay Sewage ponds, plus another two were seen flying south over there on our last morning. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: At least forty birds seemingly heading the wrong way in a mixed flock near Oyun Musa, then another six were seen heading south over Na’ama Bay on our last morning there. Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca: A good look at an immature bird overhead at Na’ama Bay on our final morning there. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Only seen on our final morning at Na’ama Bay, with ten birds following the stream of raptors passing southwards. Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: An amazing encounter with an adult at Giza that swooped across the face of the Great Pyramid before perching its the rocky face. Another adult soared past at Wadi Dana, and two immature birds joined the southward stream of migrating birds at Na’ama Bay. PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Multiple sightings on the tour, with birds seen at Ras Mohammed, from our hotels at Na’ama Bay and El Gouna, around Lake Nasser, and around the islands of Hurghada where we saw an active nest. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Seen almost daily. Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus: Up to four seen over the fields near Bilbeis on two mornings, then two females were seen at Wadi Rum being chased off by Sooty Falcons. Sooty Falcon Falco concolor: A great encounter with a pair at Wadi Rum that confused us initially by being airborne alongside female Red-foots! At Hurghada they were distantly visible over most of the offshore islands, with eight birds together in the air at the same time. We didn’t see any fledged juveniles, and the behaviour of the birds at Wadi Rum would seem to indicate that they are still with nests at this time. Lanner Falco biarmicus: An adult was seen soaring at Abu Simbel, making the Sandgrouse nervous! The race breeding in Egypt is tanypterus, and formerly bred on the Great Pyramid at Giza! Peregrine Falco peregrinus: Singles were seen near Petra and at Na’ama Bay. PHASIANIDAE Chukar Alectoris chukar (H): Only heard, at St Catherine’s and at Wadi Dana. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix: One was flushed from desert scrub at Oyun Musa. RALLIDAE Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Not uncommon in the Cairo area, with more seen at Luxor plus one or two at Abu Simbel. African Swamp-hen Porphyrio madagascariensis: A single was seen by Crocodile Island at Luxor. GRUIDAE Common Crane Grus grus: A splendid group of 22 calling birds circled over our heads, as they headed southwards over Na’ama Bay. Some more flocks were seen more distantly crossing the Red Sea at Hurghada. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis: Seen on two days in the Bilbeis area where we had great looks at four of these cryptic waders, almost invisible in a stubble field. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Just two seen, at Luxor and at Abu Simbel. BURHINIDAE Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis: Our first sighting was of four birds around fishponds near Bilbeis, then we found two that posed for photos at Crocodile Island, and another nine were disturbed from the scrub around Lake Nasser. The local name is ‘Karuwan�E and the bird plays a role in Arab folklore as the Oystercatcher-like calls are thought to be prayers to God. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A handful were seen at Wadi Natrun and Bilbeis, then at Abu Simbel we found them commonly around the lakeshore. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula: More frequently encountered than the above, we found these at Wadi Natrun, Luxor and Hurghada, and the largest numbers were found at Na’ama Bay and Abu Simbel. Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius pecuarius: We found ten or more at Wadi Natrun, the most northerly part of their African range and one of the only regular sites in the Western Palearctic. On our last morning at Abu Simbel we found two on the lakeshore. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: A couple were seen at Wadi Natrun, and they were in good numbers on the mudflats at Ras Muhammad. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: At least a dozen birds were seen at Ras Muhammad, chasing across the crab-rich mudflats. A single was also seen at our hotel at El Gouna. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: Four were seen on the shore at our hotel at El Gouna. Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus: Found commonly around Luxor and in the Cairo area, with particularly high numbers seen along the roadsides as we took a mystery tour from Bilbeis to Ismailiya and Suez! A handful hung around Na’ama Bay sewage ponds, otherwise not seen in Sinai or Jordan. White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus: Some splendid looks at five birds feeding in wet paddies near Bilbeis on two days running. Another single was seen on the shores of Lake Nasser at Abu Simbel. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: A single bird was seen on the sewage ponds at Na’ama Bay. SCOLOPACIDAE Little Stint Calidris minuta: Seen in good numbers at Wadi Natrun, Na’ama Bay sewage ponds and Abu Simbel. Dunlin Calidris alpina: A flock of a dozen was seen on the shore at Ras Mohammed. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Four were seen in wet fields near Bilbeis, and a further three loitered around the sewage ponds at Na’ama Bay. Jack Snipe Lymnocryptes minimus: A single bird was put to flight from a busy paddyfield near Bilbeis. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Quite plentiful in the wet fields near Bilbeis, a single was seen at Na’ama Bay, and a few more at Abu Simbel. Great Snipe Gallinago media: A nice surprise to find this bulky fellow at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds, even if he was rather flighty and only gave us one rather brief view of himself on the ground. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: A single juvenile bird was at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds. Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: A single was seen on the shore at our El Gouna hotel. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: Six were seen on the shore at Ras Muhammad, and another four on the shore at El Gouna. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Quite a few seen at Wadi Natrun, then a further two on the shore at El Gouna. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: A single fed on a busy wet paddy near Bilbeis, then we saw a couple more on the shore of Lake Nasser. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Quite visible and vocal at Na’ama Bay sewage works, with others seen at El Gouna and Luxor. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Several seen around Wadi Natrun and the Bilbeis area, also encountered at Na’ama Bay and Abu Simbel. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A busy group fed on a wet field near Bilbeis, then others were seen at Oyun Musa, Na’ama Bay and Luxor. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Odd birds seen along our route, at Bilbeis, Na’ama Bay, Luxor and Abu Simbel. LARIDAE Sooty Gull Larus hemprichii: The only ones we saw were five around the islands off Hurghada, but at least our first came in for a superbly close look as we threw squid from the back of our boat. White-eyed Gull Larus leucophthalmus: Our first examples of this Red Sea endemic were 14 birds sat atop a roadside rock near Ain Sukhna, then we saw odd ones at Aqaba before finding them very commonly around Hurghada. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus: Seen at Ismailiya and at Abu Simbel. Slender-billed Gull Larus genei: We met our first of these at Ismailiya and Suez, saw more from our hotel near Ain Sukhna, found plenty on the mud flats at Ras Mohammed, and saw a small number at Hurghada. Baltic Gull Larus fuscus: This split from Lesser Black-backed Gull breeds in Scandinavia and winters down to the Indian Ocean. It scraped onto our tour list with two fairly distant birds seen from the beach at our Ain Sukhna hotel. Armenian Gull Larus armenicus: Two of these flew past us along the Suez canal at Port Towfiq, showing the distinctive pattern of black and red on their short bills. Another two birds seen between Aqaba and Nuweiba were either this species or Caspian Gull L. cachinans. STERNIDAE Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: Seen in fairly good numbers at Abu Simbel, patrolling the shores of the lake. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: Twenty or more seen on the Suez canal at Port Towfiq, also seen at Ras Muhammad and around the islands of Hurghada. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Some eight birds seen perched on rocks, on the shore of our hotel at El Gouna. Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis: An adult with an attendant juvenile was seen on the shore by our Ain Sukhna hotel, then at least eight were with a lively Tern flock around the Hurghada islands. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis: Two seen over the Lake Timsah at Ismailiya were the only sightings. White-cheeked Tern Sterna repressa: We eventually found 40 or more of these around the islands off Hurghada, mostly in non-breeding plumage but a few were still in their darker breeding dress, and also a few fresh juveniles were present. They breed here between July and mid September. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Our first encounters were with birds around fishponds near Bilbeis, then more were seen at Ismailiya, Na’ama Bay sewage works and at Abu Simbel. White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Several birds were seen feeding over the shallows of Lake Nasser. PTEROCLIDAE Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse Pterocles lichtensteinii: We only managed to see these flying away in the spotlight at the Na’ama Bay sewage works, with at least seven birds actually seen. We could hear them in the near-darkness, but unless they land close to you it is very difficult to see them properly! Crowned Sandgrouse Pterocles coronatus: Rather better views of these at Na’ama Bay sewage works, where on two separate mornings we enjoyed good views as they came in to drink, with a high count of 17 on our second morning. Spotted Sandgrouse Pterocles senegallus: We were unable to complete the trio of Sandgrouse at Na’ama Bay, however we found these in good number at Abu Simbel, flying around calling and also giving some good views as they fed on the sandy ‘fields�E COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columbia livia: Commonly encountered especially where large dovecotes were present! That said though, we did see some very handsome examples in remote desert such as at Wadi Rum and around Sinai that suggested a purer genetic stock was present. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: Seen fairly frequently around Cairo, Sinai and in Jordan, though no further south than that. African Collared Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea: Four birds feeding in fields at Abu Simbel were a nice surprise, and a ‘WP tick�Efor the leader! Very similar to the above species, but definitely pinker! European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: Six birds seen at Luxor were the only ones of the trip. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Seen daily, very numerous! CUCULIDAE Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis: We were very fortunate to find one of these near Bilbeis, which offered some views as it lurked in the bushes before disappearing completely. At this season they are not very vocal and seem to spend most of their time being secretive. STRIGIIDAE Little Owl Athene noctua: A vocal resident of our hotel in Luxor, seen in flight on one occasion. ALCEDINIDAE White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: We found at least ten of these handsome fellows in the Bilbeis area, where the range of this Asian species just nudges into Africa. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Odd birds seen along our route; in the Cairo area, at Ras Muhammad and at Hurghada. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Numerous along the canals in the Cairo area, and also found around Luxor and at Abu Simbel. MEROPIDAE Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Our first were encountered near Bilbeis, then around Luxor we found them to be quite numerous. European Bee-eater Merops apiaster: Our first of these southward-bound migrants were in the orchards at Wadi Dana, then other singles were seen around hotel gardens in Na’ama Bay. UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Common in the Cairo region, at Abu Simbel, and around Luxor where they were tame and obliging in our hotel garden. ALAUDIDAE Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti: One of the few birds in evidence at St Katherine’s, and also found in Wadi Rum, Petra and Na’ama Bay, typically in pairs in their favoured habitat of dry rocky desert. Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes: After missing it earlier in the tour, we enjoyed an obliging example feeding and occasionally singing in sandy fields alongside Lake Nasser. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Just a couple of sightings, around Abu Simbel. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: Not uncommon around Cairo, a handful more in Jordan and then seen very commonly at Abu Simbel. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Small numbers were seen at Wadi Natrun, Na’ama Bay and Abu Simbel. Rock Martin (Pale Crag M) Hirundo fuligula: Commonly encountered in barren rocky habitats in the Sinai, and also at Ain Sukhna, Petra, Wadi Rum, Luxor and Abu Simbel. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Seen almost daily, with the majority of birds along the Nile being of the red-bellied resident form savignii, with migrant white-bellied ones occurring both there and everywhere else. The ‘Egyptian Swallows�Eare surely a contender for full specific status? Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Quite a few were seen at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds along with other migrant hirundines, plus a single one was seen at Abu Simbel. Common House Martin Delichon urbica: Some 20+ seen with other migrant hirundines at Na’ama Bay sewage works, plus two more with a mixed flock at Abu Simbel. MOTACILLIDAE Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi: A big surprise to find three of these at Wadi Natrun, with a great look at one of them walking around on the short grazed turf. They are a scarce migrant and winter visitor in Egypt. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: A flying bird was seen at Wadi Natrun, and another at Ras Muhammad showed very well. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Two single migrants were seen; one at Wadi Rum and another in the hotel garden at Aqaba. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: We saw very good numbers of these, with an estimated 100 birds in a day at Abu Simbel being noteworthy. We also found them at Wadi Natrun, in the Bilbeis area, at Na’ama Bay, El Gouna and Luxor. Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] flava: We saw small flocks of these (with a fair number of females and immatures not specifically identified) at Na’ama Bay, Luxor, and at Abu Simbel where we saw at least 50 mixed with the above species. Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] feldegg: Three were seen around the shores of Lake Nasser. Egyptian Wagtail Motacilla [flava] pygmaea: Our first birds showed fairly poorly at Wadi Natrun, then at Crocodile Island we saw several more in rather better conditions, and also at Abu Simbel. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea (H): A ‘heard-only�E at Na’ama Bay sewage works. White Wagtail Motacilla alba: This passage migrant and winter visitor was in good numbers almost everywhere. A large number flying to roost in street trees in Heliopolis was also noted. PYCNONOTIDAE White-spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos: Rather common around Petra and Wadi Dana, and in Egypt two were seen at St Catherine’s monastery and another at Nuweiba. Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus: Common around Cairo and in Luxor gardens, the only other place we found it was in the garden of the Mercure Hotel in Ismailiya. TURDIDAE Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Three singles were encountered; one at Aqaba in the hotel garden, one at Abu Simbel, and one that showed well at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: A single male seen distantly as we scanned the high country near Wadi Dana. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus: Migrants were often encountered, with the biggest concentration being five in the pomegranate orchards at Wadi Dana. Blackstart Cercomela melanura: Two pairs were seen at Petra, and a couple more in Wadi Rum. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: Single migrants were seen at Wadi Natrun, Ain Sukhna, Na’ama Bay, Ras Muhammad and Abu Simbel. Common Stonechat Saxicola rubicola: A single male was seen in the only patch of grass at Na’ama Bay sewage ponds. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: One was seen at Wadi Natrun, a couple near Wadi Rum, and then a handful more were seen around the shores of Lake Nasser. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: A good number were seen with the above species at Abu Simbel, and small parties of migrants also appeared at Wadi Natrun, El Gouna and Ras Muhammad. Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca: A single bird was seen poorly at Oyun Musa, then we had great views of a pair on the roadside near Wadi Rum, the male posing well for photo’s. Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti: Two were seen at Oyun Musa, a single at Ras Muhammad, and ten or more were seen around the shores of Lake Nasser in a noteworthy concentration of migrant Wheatears. Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe lugens: Our first were three at Oyun Musa, and several were seen in and around Petra. A very smart male posed well by our lunch-cum-snorkel stop at Ras Muhammad. Hooded Wheatear Oenanthe monacha: Always rather hard to find, so after multiple searches of suitable desert it was a relief to find two males and a female at Na’ama Bay. White-crowned Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga: This handsome bird was very visible in its favoured hot rocky habitat around Sinai, Wadi Rum and Abu Simbel. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Singles were seen sitting on our Ain Sukhna hotel and on Karnak Temple, with another three seen around Petra. Common Blackbird Turdus merula: A single bird was seen at Wadi Dana. SYLVIIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Odd birds were seen at Wadi Natrun and in fields near Bilbeis. Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis: Positively common at Abu Simbel, and also found at Wadi Natrun, around Bilbeis and at Luxor. Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta: A great view of a pair by the track into Petra for some of us, followed by another pair the following day, skulking in tiny bushlets in the desert of Wadi Rum. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus: Single migrants were seen near Bilbeis and in the garden of our Ain Sukhna hotel. European Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus: Singles were seen at Oyun Musa, in the garden of our hotel at Aqaba and at Abu Simbel. Both A. s. scirpaceus and often split A. s. fuscus or ‘Caspian Reed Warbler�Eoccur on passage here, so these birds could refer to either form. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus: Three were seen well in both reeds and trees near Bilbeis, then not again till Abu Simbel where we had some excellent close views of a curious and confiding individual. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida: A single seen in the garden of our Abu Simbel hotel was the only sighting. Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata: A single bird was seen skulking in typical fashion at the foot of a large bush at Oyun Musa, although it quickly disappeared from view. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala: Heard calling at Wadi Dana, then we saw four individuals at Abu Simbel. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca: A scattering of sightings of these common migrants throughout the tour, and they were in particularly good numbers at Abu Simbel. Despite making some very unfamiliar calls, they all looked like ‘normal�ELesser Whitethroats S. c. curruca. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis (NL): One seen in the garden of our Ain Sukhna hotel. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla: Single migrants were seen near Bilbeis and Ras Muhammad, and three were seen in the orchard at Wadi Dana. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: A superb look at a very bright juvenile bird in the orchard at Wadi Dana, which came and sat calling above our heads in response to a recording made in Nepal! It is likely that this is the first for the country, but the real finder is the unknown Israeli birder who reported seeing the bird just prior to our arrival! Thanks to David Allen for sending me his photos, which I have attached to the photo pages at the end of this report. Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita: Only found at Abu Simbel where 10 or more were found in bushy wet areas. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus: Commonly encountered from the Cairo area across into Sinai, with more seen in Jordan and at Abu Simbel. MUSCICAPIDAE Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata: We often encountered migrant birds in odd little patches of habitat from the Bilbeis area across to Sinai, and also in Jordan. PARIDAE Great Tit Parus major: Two were seen in Wadi Dana. NECTARINIIDAE Nile Valley Sunbird Anthreptes metallicus: Some great looks at these in our hotel garden in Luxor, also seen in flowering trees by Crocodile Island and even by the Colossi of Memnon. All the males were in eclipse plumage however. Palestine Sunbird Nectarinia osea: Only seen at Petra where a pair greeted us in the car park on our arrival. LANIIDAE Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus: A single gingery example presented itself for inspection in the lakeshore scrub at Abu Simbel. While the identification of the different forms of ‘Isabelline Shrike�Eis rather difficult, our bird seems likely to be a female or immature of the form ‘Daurian Shrike�EL. [i.] isabellinus that winters in the Sudan Nile valley. It is supposedly a rare and irregular migrant in Egypt. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio: We regularly encountered these migrants, with singles seen at Wadi Natrun, Ain Sukhna, St Catherine’s, and multiple birds were seen at Wadi Dana, Aqaba and El Gouna. Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis: Three were seen perching on desert bushes at Oyun Musa, another was seen at Ras Muhammad, and a final one was seen at Abu Simbel. All should refer to the race elegans. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus: Several migrants were encountered, with juveniles seen at Ain Sukhna, Wadi Rum and Abu Simbel, with a smart adult at Wadi Dana. CORVIDAE House Crow Corvus splendens: Hundreds were seen around Suez, an enclave of this Indian ship-jumper that first colonized this port in 1920. Smaller numbers were also seen at Aqaba and Na’ama Bay. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix: Common around Luxor, abundant in the Cairo area, plus a few more seen at Hurghada, The race here is sardonius. Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis: We found this to be locally rather numerous, with many birds seen in the deserts around Sinai, Hurghada, Luxor and Abu Simbel. The silver legs and ochre undersides to the feet look quite pallid in flight, and this seems to be a consistent field character. STURNIDAE Tristram’s Starling Onychognathus tristramii: We found these Arabian specialities in Wadi Feiran, Petra and Wadi Rum, and also at St Katherine’s monastery where they stood on camel’s heads! PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Common throughout and seen daily, the race involved is niloticus, although at Abu Simbel this changes to rufidorsalis. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis: Mainly a winter visitor to Egypt, we saw flocks near Bilbeis and at Abu Simbel, and also in the desert at Wadi Rum. PLOCEIDAE Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar: A surprise find near Bilbeis, with a female-plumaged bird posing for us by a stand of tall rushes. Introduced to Egypt, possibly as a result of birds escaping from Alexandria Zoo in 1971. FRINGILLIDAE Red Avadavat Amandava amandava (NL): One seen distantly in flight near Bilbeis. Syrian Serin Serinus syriacus: We enjoyed multiple views of at least 20 birds in the orchards at Wadi Dana. This bright little bird has a world range restricted to Jordan, Israel, Syria and Lebanon. The closest thing to a lifer for the leader on this tour, not having seen one for 23 years! European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris: Two were seen at Petra, and another five or more joined the above species at Wadi Dana. Sinai Rosefinch Carpodacus synoicus: After some ‘non-views�Eof two at St Catherine’s monastery, we had full satisfaction once we reached Jordan. At Petra we found two groups of both males and the demure females, and at Wadi Rum we enjoyed some superb rosy males that were very confiding and posed at length. Voted as ‘Bird-of-the-trip�Eby our group, out of 19 species selected overall.

Image Galleries:
 Egypt & Jordan 2008 (Birdquest)