Sulawesi & Halmahera 2008 (Birdquest)

SULAWESI & HALMAHERA 14 SEPTEMBER �E5 OCTOBER 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW An absolutely splendid tour this year to Sulawesi and Halmahera, with a very handsome species total of 275 �Ea high figure indeed when you consider we saw few waders or seabirds. Nevertheless, it is the quality and rarity of the endemic birds that are the main attraction, and we were not disappointed! On Sulawesi we enjoyed success at the newly-included Gunung Ambang where we saw the demure Matinan Flycatcher, plus a Scaly Kingfisher �Eone of 13 species of Kingfisher on this tour that included Sombre, Green-backed, Lilac-cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf, Beach, Common Paradise and Great-billed. Owls also featured strongly, with three individual Cinnabar Boobooks of two forms, a Speckled Boobook by day, Moluccan Boobook, Barking Owl, Sulawesi Masked Owl, Moluccan and Sulawesi Scops Owls. We saw five species of Nightjar, with both Sulawesi and Heinrich’s Nightjar seen roosting in daylight, and somewhere in-between lurks the superb Moluccan Owlet Nightjar that thrilled us all. Other Sulawesi endemics included Sombre Pigeon, Red-eared and Maroon-chinned Fruit Doves, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, Malia, Great Shortwing, Sulawesi Serpent and Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Spot-tailed Goshawk, Yellow-flanked and Maroon-backed Whistler, Sulawesi and Red-backed Thrushes, plus stunning looks at a vocal Blue-breasted Pitta. The Maleos kept us waiting, but gave a wonderful show in the end. Our first evening on Halmahera quickly yielded a fantastic view of a Moluccan Scrubfowl, and the forests there still held plenty of colourful Parrots and Pigeons including Blue-capped and Scarlet-breasted Fruit Doves, Spectacled and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Moluccan King Parrot, Great-billed, Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots, Chattering and Violet-necked Lorys, to name just a few. We saw six Ivory-breasted Pittas, (so easy to hear but so sneaky!) plus Dusky Scrubfowl, Gurney’s Eagle, Goliath Coucal, Paradise Crow, and had the thrilling experience of watching the dawn lek of Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise. We began our birding in Sulawesi near the southern city of Makassar, and a productive few hours in the nearby limestone hills of the Karaenta Forest began soon after first light. The endemic Black-ringed White-eyes performed for us at our breakfast stop, as the sun climbed higher we found Silver-tipped and Green Imperial Pigeons, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon and White-necked Mynas all perched up. A horde of Knobbed Hornbills plus some noisy Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills appeared, plus we saw Blue-backed Parrot, Grey-rumped Treeswifts, Rainbow Bee-eater, Hair-crested Drongos, Pale Blue Monarch, Sulawesi Babbler, Black Sunbirds, Grey-sided and Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers. An exploration around the few remaining fishponds yielded Javan Plovers for the third year running, plus Rufous-necked and Long-toed Stints, White-headed Stilt, Whiskered Terns, Uniform Swiftlets and our first White-shouldered Trillers and Sacred Kingfishers. After some lunch, it was time to take a domestic flight to Palu in central Sulawesi. We were met on arrival by our local crew with their vehicles, and set off on the three-hour journey up to the Lore Lindu National Park as dusk fell, arriving at our comfortable new accommodations in time for a late dinner. Our lodgings were within easy reach of the cool montane forests, shrouded in light rain clouds for some of our time here. Our first morning was busy, as we were pitched headfirst into a lively, mostly endemic avifauna. We began with a group of noisy Malia, in the first of many feeding flocks that also provided Pygmy and Caerulean Cuckooshrikes, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Sulawesi Drongo, Piping Crow, Yellow-vented Whistlers, Sulawesi Leaf Warblers, Island Verditer, Rufous-bellied Fantail, Blue-fronted and Citrine Flycatchers. We quickly found our first Fiery-browed Starlings, plus gaudy Sulawesi Myzomela and atypically showy Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeaters. At lower elevations we found displaying Rufous-bellied Eagles sharing the sky with Barred Honey Buzzard and Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Ivory-backed Woodswallows and Moluccan Swiftlets, while in the bushes lurked Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher, Lemon-bellied and Black-fronted White-eyes, some lovely Crimson-crowned Flowerpeckers plus a group of Short-tailed Starling. A passing farm worker was persuaded to go and stomp around in a wet pasture on our behalf, an enterprise that produced two Swinhoe’s Snipe! To reach the higher elevations along the Anaso track now means walking most of the way, as the makeshift bridge is no longer passable by jeep. As we ascended we found several of the endemic Red-eared Fruit Doves in fruiting trees with Superb Fruit Doves, and a big fat Sombre Pigeon quietly popped into view �Ea rare sight indeed! Overhead some Yellow-and-Green Lorikeets and Golden-mantled Racquet-tails called shrilly, and even provided some good perched views this year. Airborne Mountain Serins didn’t ever want to land, but we found Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater, several Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Ashy Woodpecker, Snowy-browed Flycatchers, Streak-headed Dark-eye, plus various glimpses of the skulking Chestnut-backed Bush Warblers kept us occupied. We commenced our night-birding here, with our first outing in light drizzle producing the first of two Cinnabar Boobooks, the undescribed form here showing a cream speckled belly. An obliging Sulawesi Scops Owl responded promptly, and a wait by the forest edge at dusk produced a pair of Satanic Nightjars that seemed to be attracted to the spotlight like a couple of huge moths! A Minahassa Masked Owl shrieked at us from dense forest, but never came close. Further explorations up and down the mountain over the following days were both exciting and productive. We found a different pair of roosting Satanic Nightjars in daylight, a fruiting tree full of Knobbed Hornbills, White-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots, Ornate Lorikeets, a distant Oriental Hobby, Purple Needletails, Sulawesi Triller, Grosbeak Starlings, Little Pied Flycatchers and Mountain White-eyes. Skulkers took more time to find, but we found Sulawesi Thrush, a vocal Great Shortwing, a sneaky Yellow-flanked Whistler and a temperamental Maroon-backed Whistler. Revised flight schedules meant that we had more time to explore the Makassar area, and the paddies and fishponds here produced a group of six Woolly-necked Storks, Spotted Harriers and Black-winged Kite. Scanning the fields we found Pale-headed Munias among a flock of Black-faced, Chestnut and Scaly-breasted Munias, and were surprised to find a pair of Java Sparrows. From Makassar we flew direct to Ternate, main transport hub for Halmahera, and on arrival at the tiny airport we were whisked down to the jetty for our rapid speedboat ride across to Sidangoli on Halmahera itself. We paused for lunch before continuing our journey to Tobelo, en-route finding our first Moluccan birds in the shape of Blue-and-white Kingfishers, Pacific Baza, Golden Bulbul, Metallic Starlings and Willy Wagtails. After pausing at our accommodation, we set off again, for the black sand beach at Galela that is used by Moluccan Scrubfowl for egg laying. After the tortuous operation of getting everyone ashore in little dugouts, we switched on the lights and there was our target, pinned in the beam even before the local guide was ashore! This handsome chestnut-banded bird stayed put until we had enough, and headed back towards our vehicles. The fun wasn’t over yet though, as a Moluccan Scops Owl growled from the palm trees. Our spotlight quickly located it sitting in the open, no tape required and the only one seen on the trip! The following morning we drove the relatively short distance to Daru, and took a boat across the channel to Foli on calm seas. Arriving at our lodgings, a wooden house purpose-built for folk like us, we were greeted by a perched Pacific Baza visible from the yard. Along the easily accessed logging road, our birding kicked off with Grey-headed and Blue-capped Fruit Dove, Spectacled and Pied Imperial Pigeons, Moluccan Hanging Parrots, Red-flanked Lorikeets, Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots, Great-billed Parrot, White Cockatoo and Blyth’s Hornbills. We had close views of Dusky-brown Oriole, and added Rufous-bellied Triller, Slaty Flycatcher, White-naped Monarch, Dusky Honeyeater, a passing White-throated Needletail, and recently arrived Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler and Grey-streaked Flycatcher. We opened our night-birding program with a long look at a splendid Moluccan Owlet Nightjar, following which we saw a Barking Owl, perched out to show off his large size and streaky belly. Large-tailed Nightjars were seen along the tracks, but evening rain conspired to frustrate further searches. On our final morning we found a vocal Moluccan Boobook, and shoehorned a quick view in before it got light! Foli is a very ‘birdy�Esite and we were kept busy for the next days. Side trails lured us towards Dusky Scrubfowl and Ivory-breasted Pittas, both needing multiple attempts before we all saw them. Common Golden Whistlers and Common Paradise Kingfishers performed well, and a Sombre Kingfisher cackled at us from a high but open perch. The forest edge and roadsides provided easier birding, with Gurney’s Eagle, Moluccan and Grey-throated Goshawks, Moluccan, Halmahera and White-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Common Cicadabird, Goliath Coucal, Blue-and-white Kingfisher and the perpetually open-mouthed Long billed Crows. Further explorations of the forest here found Parrots and Pigeons in good numbers. A Moluccan King Parrot flashed by all too quickly, but we enjoyed numerous Chattering and Violet-necked Lorys, Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove and Brown Cuckoo Dove. We found Spangled Drongos, Moustached Treeswifts, Moluccan Starlings, White-streaked Friarbird, Drab Whistler, Cream-throated White-eye and Flame-breasted Flowerpecker. Our time here was up, so it was time to chug back across the channel, where our vehicles were waiting to speed us back to Sidangoli, pausing en-route to add some Moluccan Swiftlets and Spectacled Monarch to our lists. The following morning we rose before 3am, and after forcing down some coffee we made the two-hour walk to see the Standardwing Bird of Paradise at their lek site, not a difficult trek even with a shallow river to wade across. We made good time, taking our seats under the lek trees just five minutes before the first raucous cries of a male began. As the light came up amid their cacophony of raucous calls, little by little we could make out shapes as the birds flipped around among the branches. We eventually could see at least three birds performing, jumping and shivering noisily in their vain attempt to impress a female, in spite of none being present! As colour became visible, we could clearly see the white standards and metallic green epaulettes. The birds seem to disperse fairly early so we retraced our steps, and on the way found both Shining and Spectacled Monarchs, and another two Ivory-breasted Pittas. Pausing in a clearing, large raptors soaring in the sky revealed themselves as both Black and Gurney’s Eagles, allowing useful comparisons. The remainder of our time here was spent around Sidangoli where we found an obliging Dusky Scrubfowl, our first proper looks at Paradise Crows, White-streaked Friarbird, Golden Bulbuls, another Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler, an Oscar-winning Rufous-tailed Bush Hen, a pair of Slaty Flycatchers at a nest and a tree full of Moustached Treeswifts. In the village itself we saw Brush Cuckoo, many Eastern Yellow Wagtails, and several Lesser Frigatebirds overhead. As we left the island on our speedboat, a bit of mangrove cruising revealed the Persil-white heads of Beach Kingfishers, then it was time to get to Ternate and board a flight to Manado in northern Sulawesi. Here we said goodbye to the very capable Jonas, and hello to ‘Mrs Jonas�Ea.k.a. Olva, who appeared with drivers ready to speed us to Toraut. The main target here is the ever-threatened Maleo, on the battered edge of some hill forest where they come to lay their eggs in the volcanically heated soil - if you are lucky! We began early, and creeping through to a clearing where they come in the early mornings, we hid ourselves in cover and waited for a bird to come to us. All quiet today and no Maleos, but we found many other species such as Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Purple-winged Rollers, Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots, Bay Coucal, Maroon-chinned and Black-naped Fruit Dove, Sulawesi Crested Myna and Slender-billed Crows. A scan over some roadside pools revealed Wandering Whistling Ducks, Sunda Teal and White-browed Crakes. The remnant forest at Toraut was productive in the afternoon, with a pair of Isabelline Bush-Hens, Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails feeding in the banana trees, Pied Cuckooshrikes, Ornate Lorikeets, a Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, a female Green-backed Kingfisher, Blue-backed Parrots and Yellow-billed Malkohas. Staying until after dark drew a blank on views of some infrequently calling Ochre-bellied Boobooks, and we didn’t have to try too hard for some unresponsive Speckled Boobooks, as thanks to our diligent local guide we had already seen one roosting in an old house! A second attempt to see Maleo struck gold within minutes of our arrival, as a pair was watched marching up and down on horizontal branches high in some big trees. Hurrah! Success! We also had a chance to view an egg of one of these funny little dinosaurs, a monster that takes 60 days to hatch! Over the ridge forest here we also saw Knobbed Hornbills, some migrant Chinese Goshawks, Barred Honey Buzzard, Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills and Sulawesi Black Pigeons, plus our first Sulawesi Cicadabird. Nearby paddies held Buff-banded Rails, and we also saw our only Black-billed Koel plus some Asian Glossy Starlings. In another stretch of roadside forest our local guide found a Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher for us, plus we saw Purple Needletails, White-necked Mynas, and a Crimson Sunbird. A last look around our lodgings before moving on produced some brief looks at Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon, and the nearby pools yielded Oriental Reed Warbler, Yellow Bittern and Black-backed Swamphen. We then dashed to Kotamobagu to get some sleep, before rising in the middle of the night to visit the new inclusion to our itinerary, Gunung Ambang. We drove for over an hour then began our ascent in the dark. It was a short trek to the forest, where we had a great look at a very russet example of Cinnabar Boobook, and Scaly Kingfishers began their mournful whistles in the half-light. They stopped calling very quickly, so we were rather lucky to locate one of these unobtrusive birds. We did however all get a good view as one perched quietly, low down in the forest. An al-fresco breakfast was permitted once this target was under the belt, before we went chasing a Spot-tailed Goshawk that eventually gave itself up. We trekked further up the mountain through some curious deep trenches, created by cattle dragging illegally logged timber. We headed towards a pleasing little song and were soon watching the very plain but curiously exciting Matinan Flycatcher. Other birds we met at this site were Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Purple-bearded Bee-eater, Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker and Black Kite. From here we set a course for our next destination, corkscrewing through windy roads until we reached a well-appointed restaurant in some paddyfields that held Rufous-necked Stint, Pacific Golden Plovers and some more Java Sparrows. Crossing Manado we headed over to the east facing coast and the Tangkoko Duasudara Reserve. On arriving at our lodgings at Tangkoko, we were greeted with a small flock of White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, then the hot news that a roosting Sulawesi Nightjar had been located. We rushed to where it was, and were able to enjoy some great looks at this bird in daylight, before it lifted off to reveal a tiny egg! At Tangkoko we experienced the wonderful birding laid on for us by the very skilled and capable guides there. We began with views of Barred Rail, Buff-banded Rail and Isabelline Bush-hens walking about in the open, followed by Golden-breasted Racquet-tails, a tree full of Grey-cheeked and Pink-necked Green Pigeons, and a pair of Barred Buttonquails feeding in the open. A Stephan’s Dove shot past at speed, however the Kingfishers were rather more amenable to lengthy looks. Green-backed Kingfishers seemed totally unperturbed and allowed close approach, and a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher similarly posed for us. Shouts from our unseen guides led us to some superbly close Red-backed Thrushes, a ‘proper�Ebird with striking patterns of black, white and russet that elevated it to our ‘bird-of-the-trip�E A Blue-breasted Pitta sat calling up a tree and gave exceptional views, and we also enjoyed Philippine Scrubfowl, Ruddy Kingfisher and another Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher. We encountered a troop of Sulawesi Black Macaques, and our guides led us to where there was a fantastic Spectral Tarsier roosting on the outside of a tree, blinking at the world with its huge eyes. For our afternoon entertainment we took to boats, chugging along the coastline and paddling up mangrove creeks in search of the Great-billed Kingfisher. He duly obliged, perched over the edge of the flooded channel, representing our 13th species of Kingfisher on this trip! Pacific Reef Egrets stood around the fishing platforms, and here too was a rather larger fellow, a Great-billed Heron standing tall as we bobbed around this impressive beast in our boats. A final morning here was a very productive one, the intestinally-challenged leader missing out on a suite of good birds that included Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Grey-headed Imperial Pigeons, Sulawesi Crested Myna and Purple-winged Roller. We had a final lunch before heading for Manado in the rain, a journey that coincided with numerous Barred Rails emerging onto the tarmac! A casual foray onto the mangrove boardwalk at the hotel added Lesser Sand Plover, Grey-tailed Tattler, more Pink-necked Green Pigeons and White-rumped Cuckooshrikes. We toasted our success that evening with some fine food and a few ‘cold ones�E having had a very enjoyable and successful trip through these islands. The following morning we headed for Jakarta, and set a course for home, sated with so many good birds, most of them endemic, colourful, and exciting. With the rate of habitat destruction in this part of the world, we should feel blessed to have seen as many birds as we did. This has to be the world’s most threatened region and the urgency to visit is now even more critical �Ego now before it’s all gone! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICEPEDIDAE Red-throated Little Grebe (Dabchick) Tachybaptus ruficollis: A single bird seen on a pool at Foli, possibly sitting on a nest? FREGATIDAE Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: Despite a poor showing generally on our ferry crossings around Halmahera, we saw plenty in the Sidangoli area and also a few cruising around off Tangkoko. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: We had great views of a splendid example standing on the fish platforms at Tangkoko, part of a ‘Great-billed�Eafternoon! Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Regularly encountered on minor wetlands, such as along the Sedoa river valley and at Wuasa, Doloduo and the Makassar fishponds. Great Egret Egretta alba: Singles were seen at Makassar fishponds and near Wuasa. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Mostly encountered on wet paddies in the north of Sulawesi. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra: Good looks at both dark and white morphs around the fishing rafts at Tangkoko. Also a group of ten birds at Makassar fishponds appeared to be of this species. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Fairly common in open country on Sulawesi, although not seen on Halmahera. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa: Frequent in the rice paddies and on various other wet places on Sulawesi. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: A handful were seen at the Makassar fishponds, and also at Tangkoko. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: A perched bird obliged us with a prolonged if partially hidden view at Doloduo. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus (NL): A couple were glimpsed flying over paddies in the north of Sulawesi. CICONIIDAE Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: Six of these soaring over fields near Makassar airport represented the first to be seen on the tour for many years. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus (NL): Only one seen, around the Tangkoko mangroves. Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata: A first view of a flying bird near Sidangoli was improved upon with a fine look at a perched bird that greeted us on our arrival at Foli. Barred Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis: Three seen on one day only at Lore Lindu, the only birds of the trip. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus: Two were seen hovering over fields near Makassar. Black Kite Milvus migrans: A single bird cruised past us as we departed from Gunung Ambang. The resident race here is affinis. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Frequently encountered on Halmahera plus a few more seen in Northern Sulawesi. It is still pretty common in this part of the world. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: A single bird was seen en route to Sidangoli, and then a couple were seen at Tangkoko. Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis (NL): Seen on two occasions at Toraut, dipped on by the leader! Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus: A fly-by on the Anaso track missed most of us, then we all had good flight views of one at Tambun. A perched bird was seen at Tangkoko, though not by the sick! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis: We had some nice looks at these, starting with two over fields near Makassar, then another two near Doloduo. Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis: We saw some very distant migrant birds soaring at Tambun, then another three were seen on the final morning at Tangkoko. Sulawesi Goshawk Accipiter griseiceps (NL): One seen in flight at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Spot-tailed Goshawk Accipiter trinotatus: We were missing this Sulawesi endemic until we went to Gunung Ambang, where two vocal birds taunted us before finally one decided to break cover and come in for a good look. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Grey-throated Goshawk Accipiter griseogularis: An obliging perched bird seen at Foli briefly caused an identification conundrum, then another probable zoomed by us at Dase Hill. This is split from Variable Goshawk in ‘Raptors of the World�E(Ferguson-Lees & Christie). Moluccan Goshawk Accipiter henicogrammus: A rather poor view in early morning sunshine of a perched bird at Foli, eventually identified as this species! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Small Sparrowhawk Accipiter nanus: A great look at one sitting out by a pool on the Anaso track, hunting from an exposed perch. Endemic to Sulawesi. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Two were seen at Lore Lindu, and singles were seen near Sidangoli, at Tambun, and along the Molibagu road. Gurney’s Eagle Aquila gurneyi: We had a good run of these this year, with multiple sightings around Foli, plus two soaring well near Sidangoli. Never very close! Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: Great views of these on three days at Lore Lindu, repeatedly displaying over the forest. It’s hard to believe we missed it last year! Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus lanceolatus: Three sightings of these at Lore Lindu, then another at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. FALCONIDAE Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis: Scattered sightings throughout the tour, mostly on Halmahera and around Wuasa where we met our first ones. Oriental Hobby Falco severus: A single bird seen perched distantly at Lake Tambing. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A single bird shot past at Palu airport, the only sighting of the tour. ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata: A total of 95 were counted at the Doloduo pools, plus a handful more were seen on paddies near Tambun. Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: Up to five lurked with the above species at Doloduo pools, plus a couple were seen near Tambun. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa (NL): Four were seen near Makassar airport. MEGAPODIIDAE Philippine Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii: At least four were rustled up for us by our redoubtable guides at Tangoko. Dusky Scrubfowl Megapodius freycinet: Heard regularly at Foli, but it took as many as five attempts for everyone to get satisfactory views! Finally, one obliged us with a ‘walk-through�Eon our final morning on Halmahera. Moluccan Scrubfowl Eulipoa wallacei: A superb close encounter with one at Galela beach, located after just five minutes and pinned in position with the beam of our spotlight! You lucky lucky people! Endemic to the Moluccas. Maleo Macrocephalon maleo: All the best birds come to those who wait! A first morning at Tambun drew a blank, so a second visit became necessary. However, within five minutes of arrival we had located two roosting birds that showed well and at length, pacing nervously up and down on stout horizontal branches. Many thanks once again to the WCS and government researchers, who are doing a great job there. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Vulnerable�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E The entire population is estimated at just 5000, and is declining due to exploitation and human disturbance. In some areas, the populations have declined by up to 90% since 1950! Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: The blur of a flying bird was seen shooting up from the wheels of the lead car at Tambun. Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: Great views of two feeding along the track at Tangkoko. The race here is rufilata. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis: Great looks at six of these splendid birds in paddies near Tambun, then several more were seen in the early morning at Tangkoko. Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus: A good showing by these fellows eventually. Dry conditions meant we only had the briefest of roadside glimpses, until we made a special effort at Tangkoko and saw them well. However, a deluge as we left the area had the effect of bringing them all out onto the roads, and eight were seen en-route to the Hotel Santika! The subspecies concerned is celebensis and this form lacks the chestnut breast band shown by birds in the Philippines. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca (H): Heard calling with its Dabchick-like trill in paddies near Wuasa. White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinerea: Multiple sightings and some good views at the Doloduo pools and at our lunch stop near Anurang. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus: One seen running off the roadside en-route to Tobelo, and several were heard at Foli. On our last morning on Halmahera, a vocal bird gave atypically good views as it was lured into view several times! Isabelline Waterhen Amaurornis isabellinus: Another difficult bird to see when conditions are not right, we enjoyed a prompt appearance by a pair at the forest edge at Toraut, then two more were seen in the early morning at Tangkoko, and finally two ‘road-runners�Ewere seen as we left Tangkoko in the rain. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Two birds were added to our list at Bantimurung. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Just one seen, at the Doloduo pools. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: A small number were seen at the Doloduo pools. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: A good number were seen at the Makassar fishponds, this species is often lumped in the familiar Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus, however it does show a distinctive head pattern and calls very differently. CHARADRIIDAE Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Our only sightings were of four on paddies near Anurang. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A small number were seen at Makassar fishponds. Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus: Some good views of up to four birds at the Makassar fishponds. This is not well-described in the field guide, however there are some good pictures at www.orientalbirdimages.org that show the long lanky pale legs, chunky build, long bill, rusty-hued cheek and breast patches and dusky rear collar. Discovered here by Birdquest three years previously, this represents an extension of their known range, and they seem to be staying. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus: Only seen on the jetty at the Hotel Santika, with just four present. At least some if not all would be of the race (and potential split) mongolicus. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Singles were seen at Daru and on the shore at Foli. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Odd singles were seen at Makassar, Sidangoli, Daru and the Hotel Santika. These birds are of the race variegatus that shows a heavily barred underwing and a lightly barred rump. Common Redshank Tringa totanus (H): Only heard, at Makassar fishponds. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: A single seen at Makassar fishponds. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: A single seen at Makassar fishponds. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Numerous on the Makassar fishponds, we also found some on wet paddies at Wuasa and later in northern Sulawesi. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: This migrant was regularly encountered along our route. Grey-tailed Tattler (G-rumped T) Heteroscelus brevipes: Singles were seen at Foli, Sidangoli and Tangkoko, plus five at the Hotel Santika. Swinhoe’s Snipe Gallinago megala: Two of these bulky fellows were kindly flushed for us by a local farmer, from a sodden pasture near Wuasa. Rufous-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis: A reasonable number were seen on two visits to the Makassar fishponds, plus two were seen on paddies near Anurang. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: A handful of these were seen on the Makassar fishponds. LARIDAE Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: Several dozen were seen at the Makassar fishponds on both visits. White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: A fair number were on the Makassar fishponds, perched alongside the above species allowing direct comparisons. Also seen at sea en-route to Foli. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: More or less the only ‘seabird�Eseen on any of our crossings around Halmahera. They would all involve the eastern race longipennis. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Quite a few at the fishponds near Makassar, also seen while crossing to and from Foli. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Recorded several times. Allegedly�E Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: A few were seen around the Makassar fishponds. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Small numbers seen in open habitats on both islands. Brown Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis: Seen fairly regularly at Lore Lindu and in the Dumoga Bone area, plus smaller numbers at Foli and Sidangoli. Two forms are involved; albicapilla, the paler-headed form on Sulawesi, and albiceps on Halmahera. Sulawesi Black Pigeon Turacoena manadensis: Several were seen at Tambun with progressively better views acquired, plus a few more noted at Tangkoko. A Sulawesi endemic, with its scientific name referring to the town of Manado. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A couple were seen zipping away from us on Halmahera, before a pair performed well on our last morning near Sidangoli. The race encountered is the nominate one. Stephan’s Dove Chalcophaps stephani: Actually seen on three occasions at Tangkoko but never to everybody. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans: A couple of nice groups of these colourful birds seen at Tangkoko and the Hotel Santika, typically favouring coastal habitats. Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Treron griseicauda: Our first were four at Karaenta, then not again until Toraut and Tangkoko, where we saw them together with the above species. The obvious feature of a thick pale eye-ring is not described in Coates and Bishop. Red-eared Fruit Dove Ptilinopus fischeri: Often heard at Lore Lindu, and progressively better views of multiple birds were acquired over three days. An attractive Sulawesi endemic. Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus subgularis: Our first at Tambun stayed mostly aloof and hidden, then another showed rather better along the Molibagu Road. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus bernsteinii: Often rather hard to find, we had a good encounter with two at Foli on our first morning. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus: We eventually tracked down several for some good views at Lore Lindu, plus a single was seen at Foli. The subspecies in Sulawesi is temminckii, and on Halmahera it is the nominate. Blue-capped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus monacha: A few of these gorgeous fellows were seen at Foli, but being so small and unobtrusive meant many more went unseen. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Grey-headed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus hyogastra: Not uncommon on Halmahera where we found them in good numbers at Foli, with a few more seen near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospila: Our first two were lurking quietly in the canopy at Tambun, then we had better views of two on the Molibagu Road. White-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula forsteni: Just two seen at Lore Lindu following the briefest of flyovers at Karaenta. Another two were seen on the last morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula radiata: Two were seen briefly by some of us by the river at Toraut, then three were seen by (almost!) all at Tangkoko on the last morning there. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: In good numbers at Karaenta, then not seen again until we reached northern Sulawesi where they were not uncommon at Tambun, Toraut, and also at Tangkoko. The interesting subspecies paulina found on Sulawesi sports an attractive rufous nape that forms a shaggy crest, surely a very tempting split! Spectacled Imperial Pigeon Ducula perspicillata: Regularly seen at Foli where their loud booming was commonly heard. Also heard around Sidangoli and seen at Lami. Endemic to the Moluccas, plus one other island off West Papua. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula basilica: We could often hear the deep ‘rumbling stomach�Egrowling call on Halmahera, with at least five seen there. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: Seen quite commonly in the forest at Foli, then not again until we reached the Hotel Santika where we saw seven. Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon Ducula luctuosa: Two were seen at Karaenta on our first morning, and then several more were seen at the opposite end of the tour, at Tangkoko. Often a tricky bird to find, it is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Sombre Pigeon Cryptophaps poecilorrhoa: A nice view of this almost turkey-like pigeon in the forest at Lore Lindu, which hung around giving views for a few minutes before slipping away. Endemic to Sulawesi, and a lifer for the leader! PSITTACIDAE Violet-necked Lory Eos squamata: Some good numbers at Foli with up to 25 in a day, a heartening sight to find this beauty so commonly. Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus: A couple were seen near Wuasa, then we had good views of many more in the forest scrap at Toraut. A handsome endemic of the Sulawesi subregion. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis: Initially seen just zooming past us at Lore Lindu, but it wasn’t long before we were able to enjoy some fine views of perched birds. Endemic to Sulawesi and Sula. Chattering Lory Lorius garrulus: We had great views of plenty of these gorgeous birds on three days at Foli, and also saw one near Sidangoli. A sadly declining species, endemic to the North Moluccas and classified as ‘Endangered�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Threatened by habitat destruction and human exploitation, this North Moluccan Endemic had an estimated population of 31,000-220,000 in 1991 and it is estimated that trappers may catch as many as 10% of the population in a year, which is a clearly unsustainable rate of harvest! Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: Notably numerous at Foli this year with as many as 50 seen on one day, and also seen near Sidangoli. Another very attractive Parrot! White Cockatoo Cacatua alba: Often seen on Halmahera, not least because of its noise and high visibility! Frequent around Foli and also round Sidangoli, it is endemic to the North Moluccas, and is classified as ‘Vulnerable�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E The world population was estimated at between 43,000-183,000 in 1991, though as the trees keep tumbling down the potential nesting sites must become scarcer, and this combined with trapping does not bode well for the future. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Seen often on Halmahera, usually calling raucously as they flew above the forest. The brightly coloured females were typically scarce, (this species shows some of the most extreme sexual dimorphism in the bird world) but a couple were seen at Foli. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Common and noisy at Foli, with a handful more seen around Sidangoli. The calls are remarkably similar to Rose-ringed Parakeet! Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans: A hunt for some vocal birds in the canopy at Toraut ended with prolonged close views of six feeding at eye-level in banana trees. This species has some bizarre ‘toy-trumpet�Ecalls, often the best way to tell it from the following species. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Golden-mantled Racquet-tail Prioniturus platurus: Good numbers were seen at Lore Lindu this year, we even managed views of some that were perched! At Tangkoko we found a further two small flocks. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blue-backed Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus: Our first were a dozen at Karaenta Forest, then seen again later in the tour when we found more at Tambun and Tangkoko. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: A few were seen at Foli but none were seen perched. Another was seen at Lami. Moluccan King Parrot Alisterus amboinensis: A single sighting of a low flying bird that shot across the track at Foli in a blur of red and blue. Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot Loriculus stigmatus: A few glimpses of flying birds around Lore Lindu were supplemented by numerous obliging examples in the Dumoga Bone area. Also seen at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot Loriculus amabilis: A good showing by these at Foli, with numerous examples seen on each day there. Endemic to the North Moluccas, Sula and Banggai islands. Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot Loriculus exilis: A single was seen briefly in the forest at Toraut, then two showed for all on our last morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E CUCULIDAE Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus (H): Heard only, at Wuasa and Tangkoko. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis: A constant feature of the background soundscape at Lore Lindu where we had good looks at three. Also seen on the Molibagu road and at Gunung Ambang. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Heard at Foli and Sidangoli, then we had a close view of one near the hotel at the latter place. An immature seen well at Foli was probably of this species, although Moluccan Cuckoo C. heinrichi could not be ruled out with certainty. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris (H): Heard twice at Foli, but never close. Once the Drongo Cuckoo complex has been finally sorted out, these birds are likely to be split as Moluccan Drongo Cuckoo S. musschenbroeki. Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhyncha: Heard frequently at Tambun, Toraut and Tangkoko, however the only one we actually saw was a female perched up near Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, yet some authorities (see Handbook of Birds of the World) lump this form together with Australian and Common Koels. Yellow-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus: A handsome favourite, we found our first at Lore Lindu, then many more in northern Sulawesi with a notably large flock at Toraut. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath: A good daily showing at Foli where they are numerous, and also seen near Sidangoli. Perhaps their most impressive feature is their deep bassoon-like calls, typically heard at dusk. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Occasionally seen, particularly in grassy areas around Lore Lindu, also at Foli and in northern Sulawesi. Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis: Rather sneaky, and only seen at Tambun where we saw three or more lurking in the trees. Also heard in other forests in northern Sulawesi. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. STRIGIDAE Sulawesi Masked Owl Tyto rosenbergii: Heard at Toraut when we arrived there in the dark, and a nocturnal foray nearby revealed a nice example sitting high in a tree. This was just as well, as the regular cave roosters at Tangkoko had decided to move on! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Minahassa Masked Owl Tyto inexspectata (H): Heard at Lore Lindu. The bird sounded identical to the recording I had of the species, and even responded to it just once, before going silent and disappearing... Sulawesi Scops Owl Otus manadensis: Seen very well at Lore Lindu, one responded very quickly and remained on the same perch for a long period, making up for two night-birding trips when none had even called �Epresumably they don’t like rainy conditions! Also heard at Toraut and at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus: Several night-time excursions at Foli barely so much as heard one, so it was fortunate that we had already secured excellent views of this big-footed fellow in the palms at Galela! Barking Owl Ninox connivens: Stunning views of this big owl after it flew across the vehicle headlights at Foli. We never heard it bark however! Infrequently seen here, and a write-in for this tour. Ochre-bellied Boobook Ninox ochracea (H): There’s always something that gets away, and this year it was this! Heard calling on night birding forays at Toraut and at Tangkoko, but they wouldn’t be lured in. Roosting birds at Tangkoko had rather unhelpfully moved their roost, so no luck there either. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Moluccan Boobook Ninox squamipila: Rain every evening at Foli meant we failed to find this at all until our last morning, when a spotlight-shy bird gave us one or two close flight views, but never while on its perch. Also heard near Sidangoli. A recent paper proposes a split from the vocally different forms of Moluccan Boobook N. squamipila on Buru, Seram and Tanimbar, and this becomes Halmahera Boobook N. hypogramma that is endemic to Halmahera, Ternate and Bacan. Speckled Boobook Ninox punctulata: Not a sniff of this elusive Owl until we reached Toraut, where the local ranger had a staked-out roosting bird in an old house. The first time I have seen this species in daytime, however the house was so dark it was very hard to see! Also we encountered a vocal bird while night-birding there, but all that was seen was it leaving its perch. Endemic to Sulawesi. Cinnabar Boobook Ninox ios: Following the belated identification of a recording I made two years ago, last year was the first time that we actually found this bird. Now it appears it is the commonest Owl at Lore Lindu, and we saw two there and heard three more. At Gunung Ambang we had a great close view of a curious example of the more rufous form. Only described in 1999 from Gunung Ambang, the undescribed Lore Lindu birds show a slight plumage difference to the northern birds in that they are speckled with cream on the belly. Endemic to Sulawesi. AEGOTHELIDAE Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar (Long-whiskered O-N) Aegotheles crinifrons: Fortunately we went searching for this on our first evening at Foli, as any other night would have been washed out! Often difficult to see, it took some time to run it to ground, but we ended up having a fantastic prolonged view of this strange fellow. Endemic to the North Moluccas. CAPRIMULGIDAE Heinrich’s Nightjar (Satanic N) Eurostopodus diabolicus: Our first attempt to see this on the Anaso track drew a blank, so we tried at dusk nearby and had a great encounter with two hawking along the forest edge, unperturbed by the spotlights and flying in rather close. To complete the experience, the following day we found two roosting birds sitting in the open, prompting an intense photographic session! Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as ‘Vulnerable�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: Two were seen cruising past at dawn at Tambun, with some others heard there also. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: A total of three were seen at Foli, all of them along the track near our lodgings. One even tried to stroke the vehicle and narrowly missed being ‘collected�Eby the riders on top! Sulawesi Nightjar Caprimulgus celebensis: A first for the leader in actually getting his binoculars onto this species (quickly followed by scope and camera!) A superb find by the boys at Tangkoko, greeting us with the news on our arrival that a roosting bird had been found. A swift march before dusk ensued, resulting in prolonged close views of a bird that eventually got up and revealed a single tiny egg on the ground! Awesome! Also another was heard the following evening. Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Vocal birds around our hotel at Makassar revealed themselves in a couple of fly-bys as we waited in the dark to depart. APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Plenty seen around Makassar and then again in northern Sulawesi, in strong light the paler underparts appear to wrap around the sides of the rump giving them a paler rumped appearance. On Halmahera we saw some that we considered to be this species, but it was a harder identification with other species present. Halmahera Swiftlet Collocalia infuscata: A recently proposed split, dividing this and the following taxon out of Moluccan Swiftlet C. infuscata. Some diligent ‘swiftleting�Erevealed this to be present at Foli, Lami and near Sidangoli, and they appear more uniform, smaller and more compact than the previous species, and without the narrow rump band of the following species. This taxon is endemic to Halmahera, Morotai and Ternate. Sulawesi Swiftlet Collocalia sororum: Also split out of Moluccan Swiftlet, we saw some small flocks of these over open country in the evenings around Wuasa and Sedoa. Compared to the previous taxon, these are a much easier identification, being quite blackish and showing a fairly prominent whitish rump ‘strap�E Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: The commonest Swiftlet throughout the tour. Smaller than the other two species and often seen flying much nearer the ground and close to forest surfaces. The race on Halmahera seems duller and has less white below than the Sulawesi birds, but it is also a bird with a large number of different races. Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi: The common Swiftlet on Java, several were visible around Jakarta airport. White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus: Two whizzed past us at Foli, undoubtedly passing between northeast Asia and Australia... Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis: Some fair numbers were seen over the forest at Lore Lindu, then many more were found in the Dumoga Bone area. Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific S) Apus pacificus: A handful of obvious migrants passed by on our first evening in Tangkoko. House Swift Apus nipalensis: Vocal and in fair numbers, but only around our hotel in Makassar. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Singles were seen at Makassar and Tambun, then a handful more around the palms in the garden of the Hotel Santika. Apparently a recent colonist of Sulawesi. HEMIPROCNIDAE Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis: Not uncommon on Sulawesi, we found them at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, and then quite commonly in northern Sulawesi. Moustached Tree Swift Hemiprocne mystacea: These favourites were seen daily at Foli, but the best views came just before our departure with a vocal flock perched over the road and sitting in the sun. ALCEDINIDAE Green-backed Kingfisher Actenoides monachus: Great views of this impressive beast, with our first female popping out at Toraut, then some very tame examples posed obligingly in the forest at Tangkoko. They are obviously common there, as the dawn and dusk choruses of whistling would indicate. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Scaly Kingfisher (Scaly-breasted K) Actenoides princeps: ‘Go to Gunung Ambang, pick up one more Kingfisher�Eor so I thought! If only it were that easy! I think we were lucky to see one at all. We enjoyed two views of a bird with the dull yellow bill of the nominate race. An unobtrusive and very skulking fellow that only called before it was light enough to see. Thanks go out to Julius who essentially found it for us. Endemic to montane areas of Sulawesi, replacing the more lowland Green-backed. Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: We had some good encounters with these this year, and they seem not uncommon in the forest at Foli. Three examples were seen well, all of them vocal. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis: Two of these wonderful creatures were seen in the forest at Tangkoko, an obliging and photographer-friendly subject once it is found. Also heard calling, audible from our lodgings. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Great-billed Kingfisher Halcyon melanorhyncha: Our final Kingfisher strike, to bring the tally to 13 species! Good views were acquired of this dirty great beast, perching and flying along the mangrove creek at Tangkoko, pursued by the Birdquesters in two small boats! Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda: A splendid look at one perched very low in the beach forest at Tangkoko, part of a typical ‘Kingfisher bonanza day�Ethat this site can provide. Blue-and-white Kingfisher Halcyon diops: Rather common on Halmahera, with several birds perched on roadside wires as we drove in the afternoon from Sidangoli to Tobelo, and many more seen at Foli where they favoured forest edges and cleared areas. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Sombre Kingfisher Halcyon funebris: So often a hard bird to find, we finally got one going in the forest in Foli. It obligingly came in and posed for us, but our necks would have appreciated it using a lower perch! One of the more exciting of the endemics here, and restricted solely to Halmahera. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Frequently seen on Sulawesi in a variety of coastal and forest-edge habitats, no doubt becoming commoner as more forest gets trashed! Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: We made three attempts in the mangroves at Sidangoli, before finding two of these gorgeous white-headed birds perched out over the mud. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Several of these seen at Makassar fishponds, plus singles at Sidangoli and Doloduo. This species breeds in Australasia and spends the austral winter largely in Indonesia. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax: A difficult bird to get on your ‘self-found�Elist when the local guides can so magically produce them on demand! Along the Molibagu Road we saw our first, then had prolonged looks at a much-photographed bird at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Singles were seen at Bantimurung, Toraut, Doloduo and Tangkoko. The hispidoides subspecies found in Sulawesi and Halmahera looks quite different to ours, or indeed the migrant bengalensis race that occurs here. Perhaps a contender for a split? MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Quite a few were seen around paddies near Makassar. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: Some six were seen flying distantly at Karaenta, the only ones of the tour. Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni: An exotic and spectacular Sulawesi endemic that provided multiple encounters at Lore Lindu, with all birds perching in view for prolonged periods. Another was seen at Gunung Ambang. CORACIIDAE Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii: Good looks at three birds vocally greeting the morning at Tambun, as we waited in vain for the Maleos. Another two were seen on the final morning at Tangoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Common Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: The only Dollarbird on Halmahera, surely... Repeated searches at Foli failed to reveal the other, more purplely, species, just a single of this one. Also seen in mangroves at Sidangoli and Tangkoko. BUCEROTIDAE Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (Sulawesi H) Penelopides exarhatus: Some good views of six vocal birds on our first morning at Karaenta Forest. A relief to get this often-elusive endemic so early on, we saw a further two only at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Knobbed Hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix: A truly magnificent beast. We saw our first 24 at Karaenta forest, then a fruiting tree at Lore Lindu provided an extra 39 together! Another fruiting tree on the Molibagu road provided another ten, and singles were seen at Tambun and Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blyth’s Hornbill (Papuan H) Rhyticeros plicatus: We saw these throughout our stay on Halmahera, and in good numbers at Foli where they were very visible and vocal. PICIDAE Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides temminckii: Several found in the Lake Tambing and Anaso areas at Lore Lindu, with six seen in total and some good views acquired. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus: This mighty beast was first seen along the Anaso track at Lore Lindu, then further splendid examples were seen at Tambun, Toraut and Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied P) Pitta erythrogaster: Our first contact was with a vocal but distant and hidden bird at Tambun. At Tangkoko a very vocal individual was tracked down and watched at close range as it sat well up in a tree for many minutes before jumping off for a hop around on the forest floor. This one was of the race celebensis, and was indeed a real celeb! Ivory-breasted Pitta Pitta maxima: Commonly heard calling on Halmahera and particularly at Foli, but acquiring views of this fellow was never going to be easy! Our first made a rather spectacular fly-by, following which it took multiple attempts before everybody had got some kind of a view! A total of six were actually seen. Endemic to the North Moluccas. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Quite a few seen at various points on the tour, and very commonly on roadside wires on Halmahera. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: The common resident hirundine, seen on both islands. MOTACILLIDAE Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] tschutschuensis: Seen frequently in small parties such as on paddies at Wuasa, Makassar, Foli, and at various points in the north of Sulawesi. The best views and numbers were walking on the sports field next our hotel in Sidangoli. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Single migrants were seen at Lore Lindu and at Lami. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Moluccan Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina atriceps: Much more numerous this year for some reason, we saw them daily at Foli and even had one in the Sidangoli mangroves. Endemic to the Moluccas. Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina temminckii: Seen frequently and well on our first morning at Lore Lindu when the forest seemed alive with bird parties, however it was only seen on one day subsequently. This handsome, white-eyed Sulawesi endemic is notably less blue than depicted in the book! Pied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina bicolor: At least three different parties of these vocal birds were encountered in the forest remnant at Toraut and along the Molibagu Road. This lowland forest species is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and classified as ‘Near Threatened�Ein BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World�E White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina leucopygia: A party of three came to welcome us to our lodgings at Tangkoko, followed by a single the following morning and a large flock in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis: A poorly named bird, but lovely nevertheless. We saw plenty on three different days at Foli. Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina parvula: Rather few seen along the logging track at Foli this year, although our attention was drawn by their Magpie-like chattering on three different days. As the name would suggest, endemic to Halmahera. Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina abbotti: Found on three separate days in the montane forests at Lore Lindu, usually in mixed flocks and proudly showing off their snowy bellies. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris: Just a couple seen at Foli, both stripey-bellied females. Sulawesi Cicadabird Coracina morio: Our first contact at Tambun was a brief one, and then full satisfaction was acquired with three birds showing on our last morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Sulawesi Triller Lalage leucopygialis: A pair at Lore Lindu provided an introduction, then we saw more at Tambun, Toraut and at Tangkoko. The females are very different to those of the following species. This form was previously lumped in Pied Triller. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: Plenty were seen in the Makassar area - around the fishponds, around open paddies, and at Bantimurung. Rufous-bellied Triller Lalage aurea: An attractive North Moluccan endemic that was quite conspicuous and commonly encountered at Foli. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Common around Makassar, Tangkoko, and the Hotel Santika. This species is introduced in Sulawesi. Golden Bulbul Ixos affinis: Regularly seen at Foli, with some nice examples seen at Lami and near Sidangoli. Not bad-looking for a Bulbul! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. DICRURIDAE Sulawesi Drongo Dicrurus montanus: Seen on two days along the high road at Lore Lindu, the only place that we encountered them. Endemic to Sulawesi. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: One of the most frequently seen and heard birds on Halmahera. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus: Numerous in the forest at Karaenta, in the Dumoga Bone area and at Tangkoko. This distinctive white-eyed form here is of the race leucops. ORIOLIDAE Dusky-brown Oriole Oriolus phaeochromus; Just two were seen in the forest at Foli and one more at Dase Hill, however many more were heard. A true Halmahera endemic. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Seen fairly frequently, at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, Tambun, and at Tangkoko. CORVIDAE Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca: Often seen throughout northern Sulawesi, usually bleating away in flight, with the most obvious ones being at Tambun and Tangkoko. Piping Crow Corvus typicus: A very handsome endemic corvid, and easily located by his raucous calls. We had several good looks at him at Lore Lindu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Long-billed Crow Corvus validus: A real beauty of a crow, with his open bill and pale eye giving it a truly exotic look. We saw plenty of these around Foli, also near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. PARADISAEIDAE Paradise Crow Lycocorax pyrrhopterus: A single was seen too briefly in the forest at Foli, so good views of three near Sidangoli were welcome. Lots of character but rather demure for a Bird of Paradise! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Standard-wing Bird of Paradise (Wallace’s Standardwing) Semioptera wallacii: Our trek to see these incredible birds began in darkness, and after a reasonably easy walk we reached the hill and took our seats just five minutes before the raucous calls began, with the light creeping up on the horizon. Just three males were seen, but they created a lot of noise and gave us a great display of shivering, flipping and bouncing around in the trees above us, a thrilling experience for all that secured this as our No.2 ‘Bird-of–the-trip�E Rumours abound that this lek is to be flattened by a Korean mining company! Endemic to the North Moluccas. TIMALIIDAE Sulawesi Babbler Trichastoma celebense: Often vocal but always so sneaky, we were happy to see them on our first morning at Karaenta (subspecies finschi), and then a couple of singles at Lore Lindu (subspecies rufofuscum). Also heard at Tambun and Tangkoko. (subspecies celebense). Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Malia Malia grata: Several encounters with these curious fellows at Lore Lindu, their Laughingthrush-like sounds marking their position as they moved around in the big trees. It always seems like an age before you get that first view, but subsequently they showed on a number of occasions. Endemic to Sulawesi. TURDIDAE Great Shortwing Heinrichia calligyna: As always, something of a headache to see. Our first contact was one that very briefly popped out onto an open area by the Anaso track, but full satisfaction was acquired with a very obliging singing bird by the roadside. This species is named after Heinrich, a German collector, who worked in the Moluccas and Sulawesi between 1930 and 1932. Endemic to Sulawesi. Red-backed Thrush Zoothera erythronota: Fantastic encounters with this beauty at Tangkoko, with three birds seen. Once again our guides found these for us, rather tamely feeding in open undergrowth forest. Very much enjoyed by all, and this group’s No.1 ‘Bird-of-the-trip�E A proper bird indeed, and endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Sula. Sulawesi Thrush Cataponera turdoides: Very much a ‘missable�Ebird, we were successful in finding one that showed well for us. Another was heard singing from deep in the forest. Endemic to Sulawesi. Pied Chat Saxicola caprata: Several seen in open country around Lore Lindu and Makassar. PARDALOTIDAE Flyeater (Golden-bellied Gerygone) Gerygone sulphurea: Often heard in the forest at Lore Lindu where we managed to see a couple, in addition to two in the mangroves at Makassar and also at the Hotel Santika. The form concerned, flaveola, is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and sings slightly differently to birds from elsewhere in Asia. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler Bradypterus castaneus: Commonly heard in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, with several birds actually seen although usually just in mouse-like flips across the track. One did show somewhat better at Gunung Ambang. Endemic to Sulawesi and the South Moluccas. Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler Locustella fasciolata: We managed to encourage one to show itself at Foli, and another at Sidangoli peered out at us before going to ground. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus (H): Two were heard in the mangrove trees at Makassar fishponds. The endemic subspecies concerned is celebensis, which if you choose to separate the various forms of Clamorous Reed Warbler A. stentoreus, this one is supposedly placed with the Australian C. australis. Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: A single was seen distantly at Wuasa paddies, then we had splendid views of three of these northern migrants around the pools at Doloduo. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: Perhaps the commonest bird in the montane forests at Lore Lindu, and also seen at Gunung Ambang. The Sulawesi form is quite distinctive, showing a grey belly, but the song sound similar to the mainland forms. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum: Not uncommon at Lore Lindu, where it was seen regularly and heard often. We also saw a few on Gunung Ambang. Fairly drab and chunky compared to typical Phylloscopus warblers, and endemic to Sulawesi. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Several were seen in paddies around Wuasa, and also around Makassar fishponds. MUSCICAPIDAE Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta: These migrants from NE Asia had obviously just arrived for the winter. We found singles at Foli, Sidangoli, and along the Molibagu Road. Island Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Seen fairly frequently in the montane forests at Lore Lindu. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: We found a handful of these furtive midgets in the forests at Lore Lindu. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Surprisingly few seen, with just three sightings at Lore Lindu. Blue-fronted Flycatcher Cyornis hoevelli: Several of these most un-cyornis-like Flycatchers seen in the higher forests at Lore Lindu, where we enjoyed some obliging songsters. In appearance they are rather more reminiscent of a Redstart or a Rock Thrush! Endemic to Sulawesi. Matinan Flycatcher Cyornis sanfordi: A great look at one of these drab songsters, which despite its nondescript appearance was a firm favourite with our group. Amazingly it came in at No.3 in ‘Bird-of-the-trip�E even more remarkable when one considers the rather testing ascent through the trenches of Gunung Ambang! Needless to say, endemic to northern Sulawesi. Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher Cyornis omissus: Just two seen, but we had a good view nonetheless of a rather furtive male in a roadside thicket along the Sedoa river at Lore Lindu. This form is formerly lumped in Mangrove Blue Flycatcher C. rufigastra. MONARCHIDAE Pale Blue Monarch Hypothymis puella: Our first were a vocal and obliging pair at Karaenta, then several more were seen in the Dumoga-Bone area and at Tangkoko. Previously lumped in Black-naped Monarch. White-naped Monarch Monarcha pileatus: Great looks at three separate birds in the forest at Foli, typically vocal and showy. Endemic to the North Moluccas and east Lesser Sundas. Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: Several of these were seen on Halmahera, with two at Lami disappearing into the dense thicket, then a further four seen properly near Sidangoli, as we returned along the ‘Standardwing trail�E Slaty Flycatcher Myiagra galeata: At least four seen at Foli with others heard there, then a pleasing encounter near Sidangoli with a pair that had a nest in a roadside tree. A fairly common Moluccan endemic that responds well to playback of its song. Shining Monarch Piezorhynchus alecto: Several seen on Halmahera, at Lami and in the Sidangoli area, though they never wanted to show more than a glimpse. RHIPIDURIDAE Willie Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys: Notably common along the roadsides in Halmahera as we drove between Sidangoli and Tobelo, with their little nests stuck on the most tenuous of supports. Others were seen at Foli, Lami and Sidangoli, a sure sign of our closer proximity to Australasia! Rusty-bellied Fantail Rhipidura teysmanni: An attractive and fairly common Sulawesi region endemic that we encountered regularly at Lore Lindu, and then once again at Gunung Ambang. PETROICIDAE Citrine Flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea: An attractive little fellow that we only saw on our first morning at Lore Lindu. Another single was seen at Gunung Ambang. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Yellow-flanked Whistler Hylocitrea bonensis: A single bird seen on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu, although it never provided satisfactory views. A Sulawesi endemic that is always rather hard to see. Maroon-backed Whistler Coracornis raveni: We finally got to grips with a pair of these in the undergrowth at Lore Lindu, having searched high and low and even in the same spot where we eventually saw it! A really sneaky Sulawesi endemic. Yellow-vented Whistler (Sulphur-bellied W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer: The most visible Whistler in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, and usually quite vocal. We also saw a couple at Gunung Ambang. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis: Two handsome males were singing loudly and showed well to us at Foli, plus another was seen near Sidangoli. The distinctive form concerned, mentalis, is endemic to the north Moluccas, and differs from most races by showing an incomplete black breast band. Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonota: Just a couple of these demure little birds were seen at Foli, with others heard but not pursued. Not the most memorable of the birds we found there! Endemic to Sula and the Moluccas. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Seen often throughout the trip, on both islands and in a range of altitudes. On Halmahera they festooned the wires as we drove from Sidangoli to Tobelo. Ivory-backed Wood Swallow Artamus monachus: Seen regularly at Lore Lindu, with some good views of perched birds near Lake Tambing. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus (NL): One seen at Sidangoli, and another in the garden of the Hotel Santika. STURNIDAE Moluccan Starling Aplonis mysolensis: We saw several of these at Foli, showing the dark eye, large bill and shorter tail that separate this from Metallic Starling. There were probably many more, but its a tough ID with flying birds! Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor: At least three encounters with these around forest edge and cultivation in the Lore Lindu area. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis: Our first sighting was of a handful along the road near Tambun, then a couple more were seen at Tangkoko. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica: The commoner starling on Halmahera, there were plenty at Foli on a daily basis, and there were dozens if not hundreds at Lami. An easy ID when you get to see their piercing red-eyes. Sulawesi Crested Myna Basilornis celebensis: Another ‘missable�Ebird that kept us waiting until we reached Tambun, where we saw three. Another two were seen at Tangkoko on the final morning. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-necked Myna Streptocitta albicollis: Our first sighting was of two at Karaenta Forest, then in northern Sulawesi we saw them regularly in the Dumoga-Bone area and also at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Fiery-browed Starling Enodes erythrophris: Commonly encountered at Lore Lindu, from the higher altitude forest down to the Sedoa river valley. Another two were seen at Gunung Ambang. Endemic to Sulawesi. Grosbeak Starling Scissirostrum dubium: Yet another very attractive starling of this tour, with his waxy red rump-feather tips and huge yellow bill. Our first were around Lore Lindu, where a flock fed in the tree next to where we were stood, then plenty more were seen in the Dumoga-Bone area and at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. MELIPHAGIDAE Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater (Dark-eared Myza) Myza celebensis: For some reason these were rather common at Lore Lindu this year, with frequent sightings of them feeding on flowering gingers. A single was also seen at Gunung Ambang. Endemic to Sulawesi, and typically found lower down than the following species. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater (White-eared Myza) Myza sarasinorum: Some brief sightings of this sneaky fellow were all that we could manage, despite our efforts on the Anaso track. A shade bigger than the preceding species and showing distinctive whitish patches of bare skin on the face. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-streaked Friarbird Melitograis gilolensis: Regular sightings of these rather unspectacular birds seen along the logging road at Foli, and then a couple more on our last morning near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Dusky Honeyeater Myzomela obscura: At least four of these drab birds in the forest at Foli. Sulawesi Myzomela Myzomela chloroptera: We eventually all managed to all get good looks at this lovely little birds in the higher forests of Lore Lindu. This endemic form is formerly lumped in Scarlet Honeyeater M. sanguinolenta. NECTARINIIDAE Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis: Singles were seen on the Molibagu Road and in the Tangkoko mangroves. Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: Seen commonly on Halmahera, particularly at Foli, and also found more sparsely on Sulawesi with birds noted at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, Dumoga-Bone and Tangkoko. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: Seen frequently and commonly on both islands. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Singles were seen along the Sedoa river at Lore Lindu, and along the Molibagu road where we enjoyed a showy and vocal male. The race here is beccarii. DICAEIDAE Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum: These were regularly encountered; seen at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, the Dumoga-Bone area and Gunung Ambang. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni: At least four were seen in a busy bush in the Sedoa river valley, and then we had another male at Gunung Ambang. Endemic to Sulawesi. Flame-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrothorax: Often hard to track down, we found one early on at Foli, but not again until our final morning there when we had a further two. Endemic to the Moluccas. Grey-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum: Seen regularly in suitable habitat on Sulawesi in most of the areas that we visited. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. ZOSTEROPIDAE Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Regularly encountered in the higher parts of Lore Lindu, and then again on Gunung Ambang. Lemon-bellied White-eye Zosterops chloris: Our first were at the Makassar fishponds, and then we saw plenty more in scrub along the Sedoa river. Black-ringed White-eye Zosterops anomalus: This was our primary target at the Karaenta Forest, and a vocal pair gave themselves up fairly quickly, albeit in very dim light. Fortunately more appeared later on, in somewhat better conditions! Endemic to southern Sulawesi. Cream-throated White-eye Zosterops atriceps: Rather far down on the ‘wants list�Eon Halmahera, eventually our first made a fine appearance by the roadside at Foli, following which we had a choice of views with one at Lami and three on our last morning at Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops atrifrons: Seen quite commonly at Lore Lindu, with a broad elevation range. A single was seen at Tambun and then some more were seen on the ridge road at Tangkoko. Streak-headed Dark-eye Lophozosterops squamiceps: Not uncommon in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu, though not the most spectacular of the endemics! Endemic to Sulawesi. PASSERIDAE Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: The common sparrow, present in all open and built up areas. ESTRILDIDAE Black-faced Munia (Moluccan M) Lonchura molucca: Near Makassar we found a rice paddy with at least 30 of these buzzing around it. A couple were also seen in the ‘Treeswift-tree�Eon our last morning on Halmahera, plus we saw more in paddies near Anurang. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: A dozen or so in the above-mentioned flock near Makassar. Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca: Some big flocks were in the grass around Wuasa, and then we found more near Makassar and in northern Sulawesi. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida: Having missed our chance to see these at the regular spot near Palu, it was relief all round when we found six with a busy Munia flock near Makassar. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Lesser Sundas. Java Sparrow Padda oryzivora: Ooh.. can we not tick it? Two were with the Munia flock described above, and then another two were seen at our ‘paddyfield lunch stop�Enear Anurang. Introduced to Sulawesi. FRINGILLIDAE Mountain Serin (Indonesian S) Serinus estherae: We often have to settle for flight views of these fellows, and this year was no different. We saw them on two days along the Anaso track, with at least six birds in the air at once, but that was all we could manage. The race here is undescribed, and differs from other races in having orange instead of yellow on the rump, face and forehead. MAMMALS Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus: With a fair amount of presumption over the identity of these due to the lack of a mammal guide, we saw several of these at Lore Lindu and at Tangkoko. Spectral Tarsier Tarsius spectrum: No mystery about the identity of these! Two of these spooky-looking nocturnal creatures were seen roosting in a huge Fig tree at Tangkoko. Also heard squeaking at Gunung Ambang. Moor Macaque Macaca maura (NL): One seen at Karaenta forest. Sulawesi Crested Macaque Macaca nigra: A fine looking troop of these impressive beasts appeared in the beach forest at Tangkoko. Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana: A group of ten or so were seen at Lore Lindu.

Image Galleries:
 Sulawesi & Halmahera Sept-Oct 2008 (Birdquest)