Sulawesi & Halmahera sept/oct 2007 (Birdquest)

SULAWESI & HALMAHERA (2) 24 SEPTEMBER – 14 OCTOBER 2007 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: KEITH BETTON, DAVID CHAFFIN, ERKKI HOLOPAINEN, KEN LONGDEN, DAVID NAPIER, MARTYN OVERTON and NIGEL PEACE. This year’s second tour to Sulawesi and Halmahera was once again very successful, with good weather, improved accommodations and a tour mostly free from logistical glitches. We did very well, recording a total of 277 species, however it is the quality and rarity of the endemic birds of this region that are the main attraction. On Sulawesi we found plenty of the ever more scarce Maleo, with six birds seen at their nesting grounds. The rarely seen Geomalia performed very well, hopping down the track in front of us like a strange Thrush. Owls featured strongly, with a pair of Ochre-bellied Boobooks at a daytime roost, Speckled Boobook by night, and two examples of the recently described Cinnabar Boobook. We saw Sulawesi Scops and Sulawesi Masked Owls, two daytime roosting Heinrich’s Nightjar (one of five species on this tour), and a whole host of endemic Kingfishers that included Green-backed, Lilac-cheeked, and Sulawesi Dwarf, plus the impressive Ruddy. Add to this Knobbed and Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, Red-eared and Maroon-chinned Fruit Doves, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Malia, Great Shortwing, Sulawesi Serpent and Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, Spot-tailed Goshawks, Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Maroon-backed Whistler, Sulawesi and Red-backed Thrushes, and we enjoyed a long look at an obliging Blue-breasted Pitta. On Halmahera we had fantastic views of a Moluccan Scrubfowl, plenty of colourful Parrots and Pigeons including Blue-capped and Scarlet-breasted Fruit Doves, Spectacled and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Great-billed, Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots, Chattering and Violet-necked Lorys, to name just a few. Night birding was exciting, with stunning looks at Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar and Halmahera Boobook, plus we found Common Paradise, Blue-and-White, Beach and Sombre Kingfishers, the impressive Ivory-breasted Pitta, Gurney’s Eagle, Goliath Coucal, Paradise Crow, and of course the icing on the cake that was the experience of watching the dawn lek of Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise. On sea crossings we found Aleutian Tern and Black Noddy. The list of thrills goes on... After arriving in the southern Sulawesi city of Ujung Pandang, we began our birding in the nearby limestone hills of the Karaenta Forest. A productive few hours of morning birding were enjoyed, with our primary target of the endemic Black-ringed White-eye secured soon after first light. As the sun rose, we found Silver-tipped and Green Imperial Pigeons, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon and White-necked Mynas perched up in tall trees. Noisy Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills made their introduction, and a pair of Ashy Woodpeckers gave us a good show. A perched Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk had us pondering its identity for some time, plus we saw Blue-backed Parrot, Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, Barred Honey Buzzard, our first Yellow-billed Malkoha, Grey-rumped Treeswifts, Rainbow Bee-eater, Hair-crested Drongos, Grey-sided and Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers. At the foot of the hill we found Sulawesi Babbler, Brown-throated and Black Sunbirds, before heading back towards Ujung Pandang. A short exploration around wet paddies and fishponds yielded Rufous-necked and Long-toed Stints, White-headed Stilt, Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns, Uniform Swiftlets and our first White-shouldered Triller. After some well-earned lunch, we headed for the airport and flew to Palu in central Sulawesi. On arriving we were met by our jeep drivers and their hard-working vehicles, and we set off on the three-hour journey up to the Lore Lindu National Park as dusk fell, the howling of the mosques reminding us that we were here during the holy month of Ramadan. Staying reasonably close to the cooler montane forests, our first morning saw us pitched head first into a lively avifauna, much of it endemic. We began with a group of noisy Malia, a vocal Spot-tailed Goshawk, hordes of Brown Cuckoo Doves and gorgeous Superb Fruit Doves, Pygmy and Caerulean Cuckooshrikes, Sulawesi Drongo, Black-naped Oriole, skulking Chestnut-backed Bush Warblers, Sulawesi Leaf Warblers, Island Verditer, Rufous-bellied Fantail, Citrine and Snowy-browed Flycatchers, Yellow-vented and the rather more elusive Yellow-flanked Whistlers, showy Fiery-browed Starlings, Sulawesi Myzomela and Streak-headed Dark-eye. Golden-mantled Racquet-tails passed noisily overhead, and Sulawesi Hawk Eagles displayed over the forest. We ascended up the Anaso track by jeep, no mean feat these days as the track is totally washed out, requiring a bridge to be built specially for this autumn’s birding groups! We found two daytime roosting Satanic (a.k.a. Heinrich’s) Nightjars, one of which allowed very close approach without flushing when one of the drivers decided that he wanted to photograph it with his mobile phone! We found a handsome pair of the endemic Red-eared Fruit Doves, and a trio of obliging Mountain Serins. Purple-bearded Bee-eaters popped out of their nest burrows in sand banks and posed for us by the track, with several pairs nesting along this steadily eroding former logging track. Returning to lower levels and roadside forest near our lodgings, we found Sulawesi Crested Mynas, Sulawesi Cicadabird and Sulawesi Swiftlets, Buff-banded Rails lurked among the rice, and a Rufous-winged Buzzard flew past us on his way to roost. Not bad for a first day! Further explorations up and down the mountain over the following days were both exciting and productive. We found a single White-bellied Imperial Pigeon (strangely scarce this year, with no large fruiting trees to be found along our route) Rusty-breasted Cuckoos, Yellow-and-Green and Ornate Lorikeets, Jerdon’s Baza, Barred Honey Buzzards, an immature Sulawesi Hawk Eagle that gave us a terrific show as it stooped on some hapless prey in adjacent trees, plus a pair of Oriental Hobbys, Knobbed Hornbills and Piping Crows. By night we searched for Owls, and following the belated identification of a recording I made last year, we found the recently-described Cinnabar Boobook to be not uncommon. We had terrific views of two, one of which sat above us in the half-light of dawn and spread its wings out along a branch in a kind of threat display. Sulawesi Scops Owls were common, although it took a while before we got a good look at one, and Speckled Boobooks taunted us without ever showing themselves. A dedicated search for the rare Geomalia was successful, with prolonged views of the bird hopping down the track in the open for several minutes. We also found two Sulawesi Thrushes, the first of which was sat singing in the open in the middle of the afternoon, plus Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers, Ivory-backed Woodswallows, Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater, Sulawesi Blue, Blue-fronted and Little Pied Flycatchers, and Mountain, Lemon-bellied and Black-fronted White-eyes. Skulkers took more time to find, but we found two Great Shortwings, and a male Maroon-backed Whistler showed well. At lower levels and in more open country we found our first Black-naped Fruit Doves, Spotted Kestrels, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker, Swinhoe’s Snipe, Lesser Coucal and Short-tailed Starlings. On our final morning’s birding here, we finally got good views of a Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater feeding on ginger flowers, and saw our first Flyeater. Descending towards Palu through shattered and cleared lowland forest, we paused to buy fuel. Overhead soared a Black Eagle, while in the adjacent paddies we found Black-faced and Chestnut Munias, and a trio of Blue-faced Parrotfinches surprised us as they flew around the fields. Another stop in rice paddies added Pale-headed and Scaly-breasted Munias, Asian Palm Swift, Red Collared Dove and Blue-tailed Bee-eater. A fine seafood lunch was followed by our return flight to Ujung Pandang, arriving in darkness. En-route to our hotel we stopped by some rough ground at the roadside and found two vocal Sulawesi Nightjars sat on the dirt. Revised flight schedules meant we just had time for a hurried scoot around the fishponds at Ujung Pandang, long enough to find 26 Javan Plovers (a very recent colonist of Sulawesi) sat on a busy pool alongside numerous Long-toed and Rufous-necked Stints, Pacific Golden Plovers, Wood, Marsh and Curlew Sandpipers, a single Ruff, Ruddy Turnstone, White-headed Stilts and Little Terns. Around the lagoons we saw our only Sacred Kingfisher of the trip, plus Australasian Reed Warblers, White-shouldered Trillers and Yellow-vented Bulbul. From Ujung Pandang we flew direct to Ternate, main transport hub for Halmahera, and on arrival at the tiny airport we were whisked down to the jetty for our rapid speedboat ride across to Sidangoli on Halmahera itself, a quick passage that allowed us to dally just offshore of Sidangoli where we saw two striking Beach Kingfishers, plus Osprey, Greater Crested Tern and Eurasian Whimbrel. We paused in Sidangoli for lunch and to prepare for the adventure ahead, greeted by Metallic Starlings and Willy Wagtails, and then set a course northwards for Tobelo. A brief stop en-route introduced us to our first Moluccan endemics, and we saw Cream-throated White-eye and Grey-headed Fruit Dove, plus our first White-bellied Sea Eagle, Red-cheeked Parrots and Blyth’s Hornbills. After arriving at our much-improved accommodation in Tobelo, we made the journey to Galela and the black sand beach that is used by Moluccan Scrubfowl for egg-laying. As we stumbled around on a pitted beach in the darkness, it was one of the local lads who found the bird first, and there it was, pinned in the beam of the spotlight. It stayed in position as we watched from close range, running back and forwards, wondering how to react to the illumination! Wow! After a late finish, the following morning we began a little more slowly, and after breakfast drove the relatively short distance to Daru. Here we met our boat, and after embarking, we chugged comfortably across the bay on calm seas. We found Red-necked Phalaropes dotting the surface, plus flocks of White-winged Black and Common Terns, good numbers of Bridled Terns and a single Great Frigatebird. Closer inshore we found Roseate and Black-naped Tern, and on arriving we walked the short distance to our new lodgings, a wooden house purpose-built for this years visitors, in the yard of the village head-man. Eager to go birding, we made a short trip up the logging road and before long had added Blue-capped Fruit Dove and Slaty Flycatcher to our growing list of endemics. We returned for lunch in the heat of the day, then headed out once again along the track, into logged forest that was surprisingly birdy. The birds came thick and fast, and we saw Spectacled and Pied Imperial Pigeons, Red-flanked Lorikeets, Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots, hordes of Violet-necked Lorys, Halmahera and White-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Common Cicadabird, Goliath Coucal, many Blyth’s Hornbills and Blue-and-white Kingfisher. Passerines were represented by our first Bird-of-Paradise, the demure Paradise Crow, plus Dusky Honeyeater, Rufous-bellied Triller, and the perpetually open-mouthed Long billed Crows. Hanging around until dusk was rewarding, and it had barely got dark before two Moluccan Owlet Nightjars popped out of the bushes and showed at length for some incredible views. Despite the disturbance from a nearby mosque (cessation of howling logged at 02.34hrs!) we were ready for more thrills the next day. Further explorations of the forests here found Parrots and Pigeons to be in very good numbers, with numerous Chattering Lorys, White Cockatoo, Great-billed Parrot, Moluccan Hanging Parrot and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons. We found a group of Pacific Baza and an ernestii race Peregrine, Spangled Drongos, and Moustached Treeswifts circling overhead. Dusky-brown Orioles made their introduction, plus we saw Golden Bulbul, White-naped Monarch, Drab and Common Golden Whistlers, White-streaked Friarbird and Flame-breasted Flowerpecker. A further dalliance at dusk produced a stunning look at Halmahera Boobook that emerged before it was completely dark, staying on its perch to bark at us for many minutes. Having tweaked the program somewhat, we had an additional day here at Foli. It turned out to be one of those hot and perplexingly quiet tropical forest days, yet we managed to add several important birds, even if the skulkers were not showing to all. We began with a very responsive Large-tailed Nightjar close to our lodgings, followed by a glimpse of a Dusky Scrubfowl, and a Blue-breasted Pitta played hide-and-seek with us in a stream bed. Ivory-breasted Pitta was also just glimpsed, however a fantastic Common Paradise Kingfisher flew in and briefly perched just two metres in front of us, prior to showing for longer on a nearby tree. We enjoyed some nice views of a pair of Eclectus Parrots, White-bellied Sea Eagle and Moluccan Starlings, just before the heavens opened. Hopeful that the rain would have primed the birds to be a bit showy, a final early morning foray took us down a recently cut trail to engage in a duel with the Ivory-breasted Pittas that were calling all around. After several attempts we found one, perched high in a tree where it stayed for all to see. We also found Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler in the roadside herbage, and a migrant White-throated Needletail shot overhead. Returning to the coast, it was time to leave and say goodbye to our friendly hosts, and return across the bay on our boat. Soon after reaching open water, an Aleutian Tern put in an appearance, and among a throng of Bridled and Common Terns we found a handsome Black Noddy that showed very well. Reaching the other side and meeting our vehicles, we sped back to Sidangoli for lunch and a ‘shower’. Although the Sidangoli area has been degraded for longer than other areas on Halmahera, pockets of decent forest are still present, so an afternoon trip into the surrounding area was profitable, with Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Halmahera Swiftlets, a rare sighting of a female Blyth’s Hornbill attending a juvenile in a nest, more Chattering Lorys and a Grey-throated Goshawk perched in a dead tree. The following morning we rose before 3am, and after forcing down some coffee we made our way to the start point of our trek to see the Standardwing Bird of Paradise at their lek site. A two-hour walk in the dark was in order, not a difficult one even with a shallow river to wade across. We made good time on dry trails, spot-lighting a Spectacled Monarch roosting on a narrow vine as we went. We arrived at the lek just at the moment the males began their cacophony of raucous calls, and we sat ourselves down beneath them and waited for the light to come up. Little by little we could make out the shapes as the birds flipped around among the branches, eventually being able to see at least three birds that showed very well as they jumped and shivered noisily in their vain attempt to impress a female, in spite of none being present. With full colour now visible we marvelled at the white standards and metallic green epaulettes, a truly thrilling display that ensured this became our No.1 ‘Bird-of–the-Trip’. Tearing ourselves away from here we retraced our steps, finding adult and juvenile Common Paradise Kingfishers along the way, a trio of Moluccan Hanging Parrots, and both Shining and Spectacled Monarchs. Pausing at a clearing we found Pacific Baza, and a large raptor in the sky revealed itself to be a soaring Gurney’s Eagle. We returned to our lodgings for a break, then drove some way out of Sidangoli to some roadside forest where we found Brush Cuckoo, Spectacled Imperial Pigeons, our only Moluccan Cuckooshrike of the trip, and a Flame-breasted Flowerpecker. Eventually we located our target of Sombre Kingfisher, with a very obliging bird that posed for us high in a tree. Our final morning on Halmahera saw us exploring new trails near Sidangoli, a successful strategy that resulted in the find of a splendid male Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove, plus White-streaked Friarbird, Golden Bulbuls, Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler, migrant Grey-streaked Flycatchers, an elusive Rufous-tailed Bush Hen, Blue-and-white Kingfisher and Eastern Yellow Wagtails. Back in Sidangoli it was time to pack up and head down to the jetty for our return to Ternate. Our return boat journey collected a few more Red-necked Phalaropes and another Great Frigatebird, then once in Ternate we had the rather overpowering experience of dining in an insalubrious restaurant in what can only be described as the ‘noisy hellhole’ part of town! We escaped quickly from here, boarded a flight to Manado and returned to Sulawesi. Arriving to rain in Manado, we then set off on the rather long drive to Dumoga Bone National Park, a journey enlivened by our first Barred Rails at the roadside and a flock of Asian Glossy Starlings sat on a church. We arrived at our humble Homestay after dark, to be greeted with a table full of food once again. The main target here is the ever-threatened Maleo, on the battered edge of some hill forest where they come to lay their eggs in the volcanically heated soil, if you are lucky! We began early, and creeping through to a clearing where they come in the early mornings, we hid ourselves in cover and waited for a bird to come to us. Sure enough, one flew up into a tree across the clearing and tried to hide its bulky shape in among the leaves and branches. Hurrah! Success! We relaxed somewhat, and stood by the rearing pens to scan for other species, such as the flock of Yellow-billed Malkohas that came in over our heads, and studied the Green Imperial Pigeons flocking into the trees. Suddenly, two more Maleos popped up into nearby trees. More good views ensued, so then we decided to enter the forest to look for Blue-breasted Pitta. A little tape-luring proved ineffective, and as we moved to leave, a backward glanced revealed a Blue-breasted Pitta sitting in the open where it remained for many minutes in full view, it’s deep red belly glowing in the gloom! A retreat to the vehicles for breakfast followed, punctuated by our first Pale Blue Monarch, while over the ridge forest we saw Knobbed Hornbills, some migrant Chinese Goshawks, Barred Honey Buzzard, Black Eagle, and a Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail. A return into the forest produced a further three Maleos, a Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove that refused to show more than a fraction of itself, a Black-naped Fruit Dove, and a blur that zipped past my legs that was pursued and found to be that most bijou of Kingfishers, a Sulawesi Dwarf. We visited the nearby pools where we found Wandering Whistling Ducks accompanied by a solitary Sunda Teal, four White-browed Crakes, Oriental Reed Warbler and a Common Kingfisher of the distinctive local hispidoides race. We continued to the remnant forest patch at Toraut, where we crossed the river on a raft and entered the gloomy forest with rain threatening. We quickly found Pied Cuckooshrikes together with Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails, plus our first Sulawesi Black Pigeon and Grosbeak Starlings and more Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills. We waited for dusk to fall as the rain held off, and saw a Great Eared Nightjar circling the clearing before heading back into the trees to search for Owls. Ochre-bellied Boobooks seemed to be wise to our tricks and refused to show despite being quite vocal, but a Speckled Boobook was found, and we enjoyed a couple of spot-lit views of this little fellow that had eluded us at Lore Lindu. Not only that, as we continued walking, it followed us, calling continually! A final morning’s birding in a new area of roadside forest was productive, with Bay Coucals and Black-billed Koels that showed well, and we had prolonged close views of a Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove that sat in full view. We also found Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon, Purple Needletails, White-necked Mynas, a pair of Crimson Sunbirds and another flock of migrating Chinese Goshawks. We then set a course for our next destination, returning to Manado (via another splendid seafood lunch!) and then crossing over to the east facing coast and the Tangkoko Duasudara Reserve. Having made good time, we paused on the ridge overlooking the forested slope that runs down to the sea. We found a good amount of activity and saw White-bellied and Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeons and our first Sulawesi Trillers. On arriving at our lodgings at Tangkoko we were greeted with a small flock of White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, and made a short foray at dusk to a clearing where we had a good view of a Great Eared Nightjar and a brief view of the endemic Sulawesi Nightjar. Here at Tangkoko we hoped to find some of the lowland forest specialities that are becoming so hard to find now at Dumoga Bone, and we were not disappointed. At dawn the next morning we set off on a Kingfisher hunt with our talented local guides, and despite a slow start, they soon began producing the goods. We drooled over three Lilac-cheeked and four Green-backed Kingfishers, all of who posed at length for photographs. We also found a trio of Philippine Scrubfowl, a Sulawesi Serpent Eagle soared over the forest, and a Stephen’s Dove trotted past us on the forest floor. In the beach forest we encountered a troop of Sulawesi Black Macaques, and our guides led us to where there was a fantastic Spectral Tarsier roosting on the outside of a tree, well-sheltered but out in the open. Further searches yielded a stunning pair of Ochre-bellied Boobooks, roosting very close to the ground under a large leaf, a Spot-tailed Goshawk put in a brief appearance, and for a finale we found two stunning Red-backed Thrushes feeding on the ground, a ‘proper’ bird with striking patterns of black, white and russet that was elevated to our second favourite bird of the tour. For our afternoon entertainment we took to boats and chugged along the coastline, stopping to admire the regular roosting Sulawesi Masked Owl sat in his cave, Blue Rock Thrushes on the rocks, Lesser Frigatebirds overhead and Pacific Reef Egrets stood around the fishing platforms. Here too was a rather larger fellow, a Great-billed Heron that stood on the platforms as we circled them in our craft, an impressive beast indeed. We paddled up mangrove creeks, searching unsuccessfully for the Great-billed Kingfisher, however we found Pink-necked Green Pigeons, hordes of Grosbeak Starlings, a large movement of Chinese Goshawks overhead, and Eurasian Whimbrels of the race variegatus. To finish off our birding here, we headed up onto the ridge, seeing an Isabelline Bush-Hen at the roadside as we drove. We had great views of perched Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, a flock of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Ashy Woodpecker, plenty of Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots, and then a real ‘catch-up’ with the find of a Purple-winged Roller, a species that had so far eluded us. Returning to the environs of Tangkoko village, we saw Stephen’s and Emerald Doves together, and our guides pulled a finale out of the bag with a pair of Ruddy Kingfishers sat quietly along the riverside. From here we returned to Manado and the delightful Hotel Santika. An afternoon stroll along the jetty here added Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, Grey-tailed Tattler, and Horsfield’s Cuckoo. A rather unwelcome flight rescheduling meant that was our final birding, and we toasted our success that evening with fine food and a few ‘cold ones’. The following morning we headed for an early flight to Jakarta, bidding farewell to Jonas who had taken care of us so well, and set a course for home, sated with so many good birds, most of them endemic, colourful, and exciting. With the rate of habitat destruction in this part of the world, we should feel blessed to have seen as many birds as we did. This has to be the world’s most threatened region and the urgency to visit is now even more critical – go now before it’s all gone! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). FREGATIDAE Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: A couple of easy-to-identify adult males seen, near Daru and on the crossing to Ternate. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: Numerous encounters with birds in a variety of plumages, on our ferry crossings around Halmahera, then plenty cruising the seas off Tangkoko. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: A single was seen on Lake Tambing at Lore Lindu. Classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: We had excellent views of one standing on the fish platforms at Tangkoko. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Often seen on minor wetlands, such as along the Sedoa river valley, at Wuasa, Ujung Pandang ‘fishponds’ and at the Hotel Santika. Great Egret Egretta alba: A single seen near Doloduo. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: A few at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, then many on wet paddies between Manado and Doloduo and around the latter locality. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra: Good looks at several dark morph plus many white morph birds, around the fishing rafts at Tangkoko. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Fairly common in open country on Sulawesi, although not seen on Halmahera. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa: Frequent in the Sulawesi rice paddies and in various other wet places. Many birds were in splendid breeding plumage. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Several seen at the Ujung Pandang ‘fishponds’, and also seen at Sidangoli and Tangkoko. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus (NL): One seen in flight at Doloduo. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A single bird in a wet rice paddy, seen from a speeding car between Doloduo and Manado. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Singles were seen along the coasts, at Sidangoli and at Tangkoko. Jerdon’s Baza Aviceda jerdoni: A reasonable view of a bird that came cruising over us while walking on the Anaso track. Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata: A good look at a trio of birds along the logging track at Foli, plus another two seen from ‘Anu’s house’ near Sidangoli. Barred Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis: Several were seen around Karaenta forest, Lore Lindu, and also around the Dumoga Bone area. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Frequently encountered on Halmahera plus a few more seen in Northern Sulawesi, still pretty common in this part of the world. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: A single distant bird was seen en route to Tobelo, an immature at Foli, then a perched adult at Tangkoko. Perhaps the best view though was of one carrying prey that came flapping past the window of the Airport Hotel at Jakarta airport. Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus: Oh how we sweated over this bird! I thought we were going to miss it, but a soaring bird over Tangkoko came as a tonic for this hole in our list, and then we had good views of one or two along the ridge road there. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Rufous-winged Buzzard Butastur liviventer: A write-in for this tour, we saw a bird flying over the paddies at Wuasa that landed in a distant tree. Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis: We obviously hit the peak passage for these migrants, with flocks passing high over us at Tangkoko with a maximum of 290 in a day there, plus we saw a handful of closer birds Spot-tailed Goshawk Accipiter trinotatus: One vocal bird appeared for us on our first morning at Lore Lindu, then another two were seen at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Grey-throated Goshawk Accipiter griseogularis: The only Accipiter we saw on Halmahera, with just one perched bird seen near Sidangoli, seen in fading light that caused a brief identification problem! This is split from Variable Goshawk in ‘Raptors of the World’ (Ferguson-Lees & Christie). Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rhodogaster: A single bird perched up at Karaenta forest was the subject of some debate after the event. (Yes I have changed my mind on this one once again!) Small Sparrowhawk does not occur in Southern Sulawesi and I think should be notably smaller, the main feature on which I am basing this identification! Also the plates in ‘Raptors of the World’ (Ferguson-Lees & Christie) make the two birds look very similar. I couldn’t find any photographic material for this species though. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: A rather variegated immature seen between Lore Lindu and Palu, then three adults were seen around Dumoga Bone. Another probable was seen from ‘Anu’s house’ near Sidangoli. Gurney’s Eagle Aquila gurneyi: A good if distant view of one of these mighty Eagles seen from ‘Anu’s house’ near Sidangoli. Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus lanceolatus: Several were seen around Lore Lindu, including one very close immature that came shooting past us at eye-level on the Anaso track. Also heard calling at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. FALCONIDAE Spotted Kestrel Falco moluccensis: Scattered sightings throughout the tour, around Wuasa and on Halmahera. Oriental Hobby Falco severus: A splendid pair were seen very well at Lake Tambing, perching in the dead trees and calling to each other. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: Two sightings of the local dark ernestii race, at Karaenta forest and at Foli. ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata: A flock of 45 seen in the air at Tambun, then another twenty on the pools at Doloduo pools. Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: A single was lurking demurely with the above species at Doloduo pools. MEGAPODIIDAE Philippine Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii: A good look at three birds rustled up and herded towards us by our redoubtable guides at Tangoko. Dusky Scrubfowl Megapodius freycinet: Heard regularly at Foli, however we only got close to one of them and that stayed hidden to the majority of us. Moluccan Scrubfowl Eulipoa wallacei: A truly memorable encounter with a bird located for us by the local boys at Galela beach, pinned in position with the beam of our spotlight, and held at bay by the plucky locals when it looked set to lunge at the hapless Birdquesters! Or was it the other way around? Maleo Macrocephalon maleo: A successful first visit to the well-known breeding site at Tambun that far exceeded expectations. A stealthy approach at dawn was rewarded with a bird flying up into one of the trees we were scanning and offering us views as it stalked about on the branches. However as we relaxed and scanned for other species, a further two popped up in a nearby tree, followed by another two seen perched and a couple another single flushed as we walked on forest trails, making at least six birds encountered. This has to be a record count of a bird that often refuses to show. Many thanks to the WCS and government researchers who are doing a great job there, even if they are unable to stop the ongoing cutting by local people. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. The world population is estimated at just 8,000-14,000 and declining due to exploitation and human disturbance. In some areas, the populations have declined by up to 90% since 1950! PHASIANIDAE Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Heard at Karaenta forest, and a female was flushed at Tambun. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis: Three were seen very well in the rice paddies at Wuasa, plus another was seen crossing the road near Sidangoli. Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus: A poor showing this year, possibly due to the lack of rain in the prime areas which usually encourages them to be more showy. We saw a total of four on roadsides in northern Sulawesi, and heard many more clacking away from dense cover. The subspecies concerned is celebensis and this form lacks the chestnut breast band shown by birds in the Philippines. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca (H): Heard calling with its Dabchick-like trill in a swamp near Wuasa. White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinerea: Some good views of four creeping along the margins at the Doloduo pools. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus: Heard at Foli, then some calling birds were taped in near Sidangoli but were only glimpsed. Also two birds were seen crossing the road in front of the lead vehicle only. Annoyingly difficult to see! Isabelline Waterhen Amaurornis isabellinus: Another difficult bird to see when conditions are not right, we saw just one, walking on a freshly mown roadside in the early morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Just one seen, at the Doloduo pools. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: Just four were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, this species is often lumped in the familiar Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus, though it does show a distinctive head pattern and calls quite differently. CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: A single moulting adult was sitting on the jetty at the Hotel Santika. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Some fifteen were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, plus singles seen by torchlight at Simao, and another at Foli. Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus: A total of 26 birds were seen on drier areas at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. This is not well-described in the field guide, however there are some good pictures at www.orientalbirdimages.org that show the long lanky pale legs, chunky build, long bill, rusty-hued cheek and breast patches and dusky rear collar. Discovered here by Birdquest two years previously, this represents an extension of their known range, and they appear to have arrived in numbers. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus Only seen on the jetty at the Hotel Santika, where they numbered about 20. At least some if not all would be of the race (and potential split) mongolicus. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Two seen on the jetty at the Hotel Santika, plus another on the shore at Daru. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Odd singles were seen at Sidangoli, Foli and Daru, then several more at Tangkoko and the Hotel Santika. These birds are of the race variegatus that shows a heavily barred underwing and lightly barred rump. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Fifteen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds were the only ones of the trip. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Some fifteen were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: A host of 20 or more seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, however we were a bit rushed at that point and there may have been more. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Numerous on the Ujung Pandang fishponds, we also found a couple at Wuasa and a good number on a wet paddy near Doloduo. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: This migrant was regularly encountered along our route. Grey-tailed Tattler (G-rumped T) Heteroscelus brevipes: Just one seen, calling while balancing on a mangrove tree at dusk at the Hotel Santika. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: One on the Ujung Pandang fishponds, plus another on the jetty at the Hotel Santika. Swinhoe’s Snipe Gallinago megala: Two of these bulky Snipe were flushed from a rank pasture near Wuasa. Rufous-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis: A rather small number were seen on two visits to the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: A good showing this year at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, with twenty or more seen on a busy pond teeming with waders. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Five winter-plumage adults at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: A write-in for this tour, we saw a single on the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: Two were seen on our first crossing to Sidangoli, then 31 were seen as we crossed to Foli, plus another 60 as we returned to Ternate. Also seen at Tangkoko. LARIDAE Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida: Ten or more were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds during our exploration along the back road. White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: Many were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, and also quite numerous at sea around Halmahera and at Tangkoko. Gull-billed Tern Gelichelidon nilotica: Two or maybe four were seen along the back road at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Seen frequently on our sea crossings around Halmahera, plus a handful at Tangkoko. These would all refer to the eastern race longipennis. Aleutian Tern Sterna aleutica: A good view of a single bird that appeared right on cue as we crossed from Foli back to Daru. The dark trailing edge along the length of the underwing is a very distinctive feature. Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii: A couple were seen somewhat distantly as we approached Foli from the sea. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: A single bird was fishing off the beach at Foli when we arrived there. Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus: Rather plentiful this year in the seas around Halmahera, we saw as many as 20 on each of our sea crossings. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Quite a few at the fishponds near Ujung Pandang, also seen while crossing to Foli and at Tangkoko. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Several were seen close inshore at Sidangoli, plus a single as we crossed to Foli. Another two were seen at Tangkoko. Black Noddy Anous minutus: A good look at this handsome devil as we crossed from Foli to Daru, flying alongside the similar-sized Common Terns. This is the second year running that I have seen this species in these waters. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Recorded several times. Allegedly… Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: A few seen around the paddies near Palu, plus a single at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Small numbers seen in open habitats on both islands. Brown Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis: Seen frequently and easily at Lore Lindu, plus smaller numbers at Foli, Sidangoli and in the Dumoga Bone area. Two forms are involved; albicapilla, the paler-headed form on Sulawesi, and albiceps on Halmahera. Sulawesi Black Pigeon Turacoena manadensis: Seen and heard in several places, with our first five at Toraut, then again on the Molibagu road and at Tangkoko where one got excited and did a little display flight towards us! A Sulawesi endemic, with its scientific name referring to the town of Manado. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A couple were seen at Foli, and then some rather better views at Tangkoko where it walked with the following species. Stephan’s Dove Chalcophaps stephani: Splendid views of a couple of these attractive little fellows, trotting along intently across the forest floor at Tangkoko. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans: A brief single en-route to Doloduo, then a good number seen at Tangkoko and more in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika, glowing in the afternoon sun! Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Treron griseicauda: Our first were three at Karaenta, then a fine male seen perched up on the Molibagu road. Red-eared Fruit Dove Ptilinopus fischeri: Often heard at Lore Lindu, however the only ones we saw were two that loomed out the mist along the Anaso track. Endemic to Sulawesi. Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus subgularis: A bird seen at Tambun stayed rather well-hidden, another was glimpsed at Toraut, and then full satisfaction was acquired along the Molibagu with a bird that posed at length for us. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Scarlet-breasted Fruit Dove Ptilinopus bernsteinii: Usually rather hard to find, after hearing them at Foli and Dase Hill, we had a good look at a male on our last morning near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus: Seen frequently and with some stunning views at Lore Lindu. A superb bird indeed, the subspecies here is temminckii. Blue-capped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus monacha: Our first was an obliging bird that we found on our first foray at Foli, then several more of these tiny and unobtrusive fellows were seen during our stay there. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Grey-headed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus hyogastra: Not uncommon on Halmahera where we found them in good numbers at Foli, with a few more seen near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospila: Our first were found chasing fruit at Lore Lindu, then we found them regularly at Tambun, Toraut, along the Molibagu road and at Tangkoko. White-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula forsteni: Surprisingly few this year, no doubt due to a scarcity of fruit at Lore Lindu where we saw just a single bird. We were able to revisit the species at the end of the tour with several seen well at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: Our first ones were three at Karaenta, then not seen again until we reached Dumoga Bone ‘National Park’ where they were common at Tambun, Toraut, and along the Molibagu road. More were seen and heard at Tangkoko. The interesting subspecies paulina found on Sulawesi sports an attractive rufous nape which forms a shaggy crest, surely a very tempting split! Spectacled Imperial Pigeon Ducula perspicillata: Regularly seen at Foli where their loud booming was commonly heard. Also heard around Sidangoli and seen at Lami. Endemic to the Moluccas plus one other island off West Papua. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula basilica: We could often hear his deep growling (like a rumbling stomach!) on Halmahera, and saw just two there. We also found them near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: Seen quite commonly in the forest at Foli, then not again until we reached the Hotel Santika where we saw a single. Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon Ducula luctuosa: Two were seen at Karaenta on our first morning, and then several more showed well at the opposite end of the tour, at Tangkoko. Often a tricky bird to find. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PSITTACIDAE Violet-necked Lory (Moluccan Red L) Eos squamata: More than I have ever seen previously were found at Foli, with a couple of large flocks totalling 50 birds or more seen on our first afternoon there, a splendid welcome to this (at times!) very birdy forest. Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus: Six were seen by Lake Tambing at Lore Lindu, then only heard subsequently, at Toraut and Tangkoko. A splendid endemic of the Sulawesi subregion. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis: Seen frequently zipping past at high speed at Lore Lindu, we had some good views of perched birds by Lake Tambing. Endemic to Sulawesi and Sula. Chattering Lory Lorius garrulus: After glimpses and rubbish views on my previous visit to Halmahera, we enjoyed good views on three days at Foli, and even saw one near Sidangoli. A sadly declining species, endemic to the North Moluccas and classified as ‘Endangered’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Threatened by habitat destruction and human exploitation, this North Moluccan Endemic had an estimated population of 31,000-220,000 in 1991 and it is estimated that trappers may catch as many as 10% of the population in a year, (with many seen squawking from houses all across the island) which is a clearly unsustainable rate of harvest! Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: Not so many seen, although we had some great views of them at Foli where a pair were watched being amorous, sitting side by side on a branch. White Cockatoo Cacatua alba: A rather visible and noisy feature of the forests on Halmahera, seen regularly at Foli and around Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. The world population was estimated at between 43,000-183,000 in 1991, though as the trees keep tumbling down the potential nesting sites must become scarcer and this combined with trapping does not bode well for the future. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Seen often on Halmahera, usually calling raucously as they flew above the forest. The brightly coloured females were typically scarce, (this species shows some of the most extreme sexual dimorphism in the bird world) but we enjoyed lengthy views of one at Foli that was engaging in some pair-bonding behaviour with her mate. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Our first of these attractive parrots were seen en-route to Tobelo, then subsequently they were common and noisy at Foli, with a handful more seen around Sidangoli. The calls are remarkably similar to Rose-ringed Parakeet! Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans: Just two or three vocal birds were seen high in the trees at Toraut, after a flight view of one at Tambun. This species has some bizarre ‘toy-trumpet’ calls, the best way to tell it from the following species. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Golden-mantled Racquet-tail Prioniturus platurus: Seen frequently at Lore Lindu up at Lore Lindu, although always in flight high above the forest. At Tangkoko we found small flocks on two separate days, the identification confused by the fact that they had sprouted their rarely observed legs and were sitting in trees! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blue-backed Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus: We found our first at the Karaenta Forest, then not again until later in the tour, with singles seen at Toraut and Tangkoko. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: In good numbers at Foli where they were vocal and obvious. We also saw another at Lami. Moluccan King Parrot Alisterus amboinensis (H): Frustratingly, we heard one call at Foli when we were at a crucial point in trying to see an Ivory-breasted Pitta! Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot Loriculus stigmatus: A few glimpses of flying birds around Lore Lindu were supplemented by several more obliging birds at Dumoga Bone, and then we enjoyed a surfeit of them on our last morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot Loriculus amabilis: A couple were seen at Foli, and then some longer views were had of three or more near to the Standardwing lek at Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas, Sula and Banggai islands. Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot Loriculus exilis: A single seen rather briefly on our first morning at Karaenta forest was the only one of the tour. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” CUCULIDAE Horsfield’s Cuckoo Cuculus horsfieldi: A single migrant was seen at Tangkoko, then a better and more prolonged look was had of a bird perched in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus (H): Heard calling by the Wuasa paddies. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis: A constant feature of the background soundscape at Lore Lindu where we had good looks at several. Also heard in northern Sulawesi. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: Heard at Foli and Sidangoli, with a good view of a perched bird at Lami. Gould’s Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx russatus: A single responsive individual shot into view right on cue and gave us some good looks as it circled us, by Lake Tambing at Lore Lindu. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: A single songster had us perplexed for a moment at Foli, the song here is quite different to continental birds. The songster then revealed itself with a fly-by. Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhyncha: Heard at Tambun and Toraut, then seen well along the Molibagu road, and again on the ridge at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, yet some authorities (see Handbook of Birds of the World) lump this form together with Australian and Common Koels. Yellow-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus: A handsome favourite, we found our first at Karaenta, three more at Lore Lindu, a couple at Tangkoko and quite a few birds seen very well at Tambun, Toraut and along the Molibagu road. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath: A good showing by several birds flopping about in bushy tangles and gliding across gaps along the logging road at Foli, perhaps more impressive though were the deep bassoon-like calls usually heard at dusk. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Occasionally seen, particularly in grassy areas around Lore Lindu, also at Foli, and a couple more in northern Sulawesi. Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis: Rather sneaky, with two birds glimpsed at Tambun, but full satisfaction was acquired along the Molibagu road with four birds seen well. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. STRIGIDAE Sulawesi Masked Owl Tyto rosenbergii: We heard one while searching for Nightjars near our Tangkoko lodgings, then we made the pilgrimage to see the regular cave-roosting bird from a boat. We saw a rather pale bird, not dissimilar to the illustration in Coates and Bishop, yet last year we saw a much darker bird. A photo on ‘www.orientalbirdimages.org’ offers an explanation, in that two birds are photographed in the cave side-by-side, one of them being much darker, possibly due to sexual dimorphism. There was a time when people came here to see them and happily ticked them as Minahassa Owls! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion Sulawesi Scops Owl Otus manadensis: Seen very well at Lore Lindu, after a rather time-consuming duel! Also heard at Toraut and at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus: Several night-time excursions at Foli and also at Sidangoli failed to secure anything more than a dark shape illuminated only by starlight as it flew across the road! Not helped by the fact that these birds seemed to come in without calling, and even when they were vocal they stayed deep in cover. Ochre-bellied Boobook Ninox ochracea: Our nocturnal foray into the forest at Toraut drew a blank as calling birds went silent until the humans had left the area! We were saved however, by the remarkable find of two roosting birds at Tangkoko by Mr ‘Oddjob’ Ferdinand. They were perched under a large palm leaf unusually close to the ground, scowling at us as we peered at them through the undergrowth. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Halmahera Boobook Ninox hypogramma: Some very obliging birds seen in two different places at Foli, emerging to growl loudly at us before it was even fully dark! A recent split separates this from the vocally different forms of Moluccan Boobook N. squamipila on Buru, Seram and Tanimbar, and is therefore endemic to Halmahera, Ternate and Bacan. Speckled Boobook Ninox punctulata: A close encounter without a glimpse was had at Lore Lindu, then we finally found a more obliging individual in the forest at Toraut. Although it stayed high in the trees, we had a couple of good looks, following which the bird obviously decided we were of interest and proceeded to follow us around for the next half an hour! Typically an unobtrusive owl, its small size doesn’t help! Endemic to Sulawesi. Cinnabar Boobook Ninox ios: Following the belated identification of a recording I made on last years tour, we found these to be fairly numerous at Lore Lindu and had great views of two individuals, one of which perched over our heads and fanned its wings along the branch it was sitting on, in a kind of threat display. Only described in 1999 from Gunung Ambang in north Sulawesi, these birds show a slight plumage difference to those in that they are speckled with cream on the belly. Endemic to Sulawesi. AEGOTHELIDAE Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar (Long-whiskered O-N) Aegotheles crinifrons: Considering these can often be difficult to see, we had ridiculously great views of these at Foli, with our first visible to the naked eye as it sat out over the track before it was even fully dark! We enjoyed close views of two birds on our first evening there, and never had to try again for the species! Endemic to the North Moluccas. CAPRIMULGIDAE Heinrich’s Nightjar (Satanic N) Eurostopodus diabolicus: Two roosting birds were found along the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. The first was in a new place, close by the track, and the second was in a more traditional spot at the edge of one the clearings where it posed well for us on two days, and so unperturbed by another jeep-load of birders, the driver was able to snap it with his phone from a range of one metre! Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. The world population is somehow estimated at between 2,500 and 10,000! Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: A couple of sightings of these, one that came around the clearing at Toraut, then another much better view of a bird that was spot-lit as it sailed over us at the clearing near our Tangoko lodgings. Also heard at Wuasa. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: A rather poor view of one at the Moluccan Scrubfowl site, then we had full satisfaction with a rather angry male at Foli (one of four seen that morning), and another two near Sidangoli. Sulawesi Nightjar Caprimulgus celebensis: A brief fly-by view of one close to our Tangkoko lodgings on our first evening there. It began calling more strongly later on, but didn’t want to come and play with us! Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: After glimpsing these from the restaurant at our Ujung Pandang hotel, we had a good look at two by spotlight close to the fishponds. APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Plenty seen around the Ujung Pandang and then again in northern Sulawesi, in strong light the paler underparts appear to wrap around the sides of the rump which can almost make them look pale-rumped. Halmahera Swiftlet Collocalia infuscatus: A recent split, dividing this and the following taxon out of Moluccan Swiftlet. We found quite a few over open country near Sidangoli. This taxon is endemic to Halmahera, Morotai and Ternate. Sulawesi Swiftlet Collocalia sororum: Embracing the split outlined above, we saw these over open country around Wuasa and Sedoa. Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: The commonest Swiftlet throughout the tour. Smaller than the other two species and often seen flying much closer to the ground, the race on Halmahera seems duller and less white below than Sulawesi birds. It does however have a large number of different races. Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi: The common Swiftlet on Java, visible around Jakarta airport. White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus: One shot past us at Foli, plus another was seen at Tangkoko. Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis: Only encountered in northern Sulawesi, we saw plenty in the Dumoga Bone area. House Swift Apus nipalensis: Seen only around Ujung Pandang and at Anurang between Manado and Doloduo. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: A single bird was seen over the rice paddies near Palu. Apparently a recent colonist of Sulawesi. HEMIPROCNIDAE Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis: Not uncommon on Sulawesi, we found them at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, and then quite commonly in northern Sulawesi. Moustached Tree Swift Hemiprocne mystacea: Seen on two days at Foli, always cruising rather high in the sky. ALCEDINIDAE Green-backed Kingfisher Actenoides monachus: Great views of this impressive beast, with at least four that showed very well in the forest at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: We had some good encounters with these this year. Our first came a little unexpectedly at Foli, when it flew at our backs and momentarily landed on a branch two metres in front of us, twice! It posed again nearby, and we also found an adult and a juvenile as we trekked back from the Standardwing lek near Sidangoli. Many were vocal at Foli and it is clearly quite common there. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis: Three of these wonderful creatures seen in the forest at Tangkoko, an obliging bird once it is found. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. No surprise though not to find it at Dumoga Bone, given the speed of the forest destruction! Great-billed Kingfisher Halcyon melanorhyncha (H): A bird heard calling at dawn at the Hotel Santika was subsequently identified as this species. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda: A fantastic finale of two birds located for us by Mr Ferdinand along the river at Tangkoko, posing well in a shady corner while we watched from someone’s back yard! Blue-and-white Kingfisher Halcyon diops: Our first came on our first afternoon at Foli, we saw another four there and then another near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Sombre Kingfisher Halcyon funebris: We finally scored with a regular bird at Lami, after having heard them at Foli and Dase Hill without a sniff of a sighting. Overall this is a very unobtrusive bird! Endemic to Halmahera. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Frequently seen on Sulawesi in a variety of coastal and forest-edge habitats, no doubt becoming commoner as more forest gets trashed! Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: A pair of these striking fellows posed for us on the seaward side of the mangroves at Sidangoli, as we cruised past in our speedboat. Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: A single at Ujung Pandang fishponds was the only one of the tour. This species breeds in Australasia and spends the austral winter largely in Indonesia. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax: A great view of one of these gems in the forest at Tambun, which I almost missed as it whizzed past my feet like a wraith! Fortunately it was relocated and studied at length, and is actually the first time I have seen it there. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: The hispidoides subspecies found in Sulawesi and Halmahera looks quite different to ours, or indeed the bengalensis race. We found them at Doloduo and Tangkoko. Perhaps a contender for a split? MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Two were seen on the rice paddies near Palu. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: Some six were seen over the forest at Karaenta. Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni: A spectacular Sulawesi endemic that we had multiple encounters with at Lore Lindu. At least two nest holes were active, with the birds shooting out on hearing our approach. Certainly one of the most exotic Bee-eaters! CORACIIDAE Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii: This began to be something of a bogey and I thought we were going to miss it, until our last morning at Tangkoko when a vocal bird was found getting agitated at the presence of a Serpent Eagle. Phew! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. BUCEROTIDAE Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (Sulawesi H) Penelopides exarhatus: Good views of eight vocal birds on our first morning at Karaenta Forest. A relief to get this often difficult to find endemic so early on, we went on to see and hear more at Tambun, Toraut, Molibagu road and Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Knobbed Hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix: A truly magnificent beast, seen first at Karaenta forest, then just a few at Lore Lindu, no doubt reflected the paucity of fruit along our route there. We found more in northern Sulawesi, particularly in the Dumoga Bone area. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blyth’s Hornbill (Papuan H) Rhyticeros plicatus: We saw them daily throughout our stay on Halmahera, and in very good numbers at Foli. It has been a worry for some time that they never included any juveniles and the population may largely be wandering adults that can survive but may not be breeding, so it was heartening to find a female attending a nest cavity with a juvenile peeking out of the hole near Sidangoli. PICIDAE Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides temminckii: Only found once, by Lake Tambing at Lore Lindu where four appeared in some dead trees. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus: A great first encounter with a pair at Karaenta, then we had more views of some splendid examples at Lore Lindu and Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied P) Pitta erythrogaster: Our first contact was with a vocal but well hidden bird of the rufiventris race at Foli which did not avail itself to everyone. This was all forgotten when we saw a stunning individual that posed in the open for many minutes at Tambun, plenty of time for us clumsy digiscoping hominids to get set up and snap away! This one was of the race celebensis. Ivory-breasted Pitta Pitta maxima: Commonly heard calling on Halmahera and particularly at Foli, but acquiring views of this fellow was never going to be easy! After eventually finding a suitable trail into the forest, it took two attempts to finally see it properly, which we did when a songster sat in a tree and posed for several minutes. Endemic to the North Moluccas. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Quite a few seen at various points on the tour, and very commonly on roadside wires on Halmahera. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: The common resident hirundine, seen on both islands. MOTACILLIDAE Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] tschutschuensis: Odd singles and pairs noted along our route, with the most seen in and around Sidangoli. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Odd singles of these migrants were seen at regular intervals, with the most being seen on the Anaso track. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Moluccan Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina atriceps: A single bird at Lami was our only sighting. Endemic to the Moluccas. Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina temminckii: Some good views of several small parties of this white-eyed Sulawesi endemic at Lore Lindu. Notably less blue than depicted in the book! Pied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina bicolor: At least four vocal birds seen in a loose mixed flock in the forest remnant at Toraut. This lowland forest species is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina leucopygia: A welcoming party of three awaited us at Tangkoko in the trees above our lodgings, plus we saw several other small parties of them there and at the Hotel Santika. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis: A poorly named bird, we saw four on two dates along the track at Foli. Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina parvula: Rather numerous along the logging track at Foli, attention often drawn by their Magpie-like chattering. Also seen near Sidangoli. As the name would suggest, endemic to Halmahera. Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina abbotti: Found on four separate days at Lore Lindu, allowing all to catch up with this handsome snowy-bellied bird. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris: Just a couple seen at Foli, but often heard making its strange insect-like song. Sulawesi Cicadabird Coracina morio: Our first was a female perched up near Sedoa, then later we saw a couple of males there, then a single at Toraut plus two more at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Sulawesi Triller Lalage leucopygialis: A pair on the ridge at Tangkoko was our first contact, then we saw another male in the forest there, and another in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. This form was previously lumped in Pied Triller. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: A handful of these were seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds, plus one around the rice paddies near Palu. Rufous-bellied Triller Lalage aurea: An attractive North Moluccan endemic that was regularly seen, quite conspicuous at Foli and near Sidangoli. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Common around Ujung Pandang and the Hotel Santika. This species is introduced in Sulawesi. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Three seen by the fishponds at Ujung Pandang. Golden Bulbul Ixos affinis: A few were seen at Foli, plus plenty of very visible birds at Lami and near Sidangoli, not at all bad-looking for a Bulbul! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. DICRURIDAE Sulawesi Drongo Dicrurus montanus: Not uncommon along the high road at Lore Lindu, the only place that we encountered them. Endemic to Sulawesi. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: Rather common and very audible on Halmahera. The taxonomy of this group is a bit of a mess! Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus: Numerous in the forest at Karaenta, in the Dumoga Bone area and at Tangkoko. This distinctive white-eyed form here is of the race leucops. ORIOLIDAE Dusky-brown Oriole Oriolus phaeochromus; Just four were seen in the forest at Foli, however many more were heard. A true Halmahera endemic. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Seen fairly frequently, at Lore Lindu, Tambun, and at Tangkoko where they were very vocal. CORVIDAE Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca: Commonly seen in northern Sulawesi, however one was also seen between Lore Lindu and Palu. Piping Crow Corvus typicus: A very handsome endemic corvid, and easily located by his raucous calls. We had several good looks at him at Lore Lindu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Long-billed Crow Corvus validus: A real beauty of a crow, with his open bill and pale eye giving it a truly exotic look. We saw plenty of these around Foli, also near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Torresian Crow Corvus orru: A single bird at Sidangoli was seen well enough to exclude the above species, and conformed to the habitat for this species. It would have been nice to have a proper look though! PARADISAEIDAE Paradise Crow Lycocorax pyrrhopterus: A handful were seen in the forest at Foli, but more often heard than seen. Lots of character but rather demure for a Bird of Paradise! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Standard-wing Bird of Paradise (Wallace’s Standardwing) Semioptera wallacii: Our trek to see these incredible birds began in darkness, and after a reasonably easy walk and the river easily crossed, we reached the hill and took our seats just as the raucous calls began, as the light began to creep up on the horizon. Just three males were seen, but they created a lot of noise and gave us a great display of shivering, flipping and bouncing around in the trees above us, a thrilling experience for all that secured this as our No.1 ‘Bird-of–the-trip’. Endemic to the North Moluccas. TIMALIIDAE Sulawesi Babbler Trichastoma celebense: Vocal but always so sneaky, we saw two at Karaenta (subspecies finschi), and then several more at Tambun and Tangkoko (subspecies celebense). Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Malia Malia grata: Several encounters with these at Lore Lindu, their Laughingthrush-like sounds marking their position as they moved around in the big trees. It always seems like an age before you get that first view, but subsequently they showed on a number of occasions. Endemic to Sulawesi. Geomalia Geomalia heinrichi: Haha! After getting an untickable glimpse last year, it was hugely satisfying to find one even though it only appeared briefly on the track in front of us. When we revisited the spot a little later, and there he was, hopping down the track like a strange thrush, unconcerned by the appreciative onlookers! We enjoyed a prolonged view that even allowed a quick digiscoping effort! Endemic to Sulawesi. TURDIDAE Great Shortwing Heinrichia calligyna: As always, something of a headache to see. Our first glimpse was of a bird that came close, sang to us but stayed mostly hidden. A second bird allowed us to get inside the dark forest with it, where it teased us for some time while hopping in and out of the dark shadows, allowing us to get some views. This species is named after Heinrich, a German collector, who worked in the Moluccas and Sulawesi between 1930 and 1932. Endemic to Sulawesi. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Three were seen on the rocks along the Tangkoko coast. Red-backed Thrush Zoothera erythronota: A fantastic encounter with two in the forest at Tangkoko. After our guides tutted and shook their heads about how it would be difficult to find as there had been no rain, we went on to enjoy some great views of this spectacular fellow. A proper bird indeed! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Sula. Sulawesi Thrush Cataponera turdoides: A ‘missable’ bird, not for us though! We had a great look at our first one, quietly singing in the afternoon near Lake Tambing, then saw a second one nearby, singing strongly in the half-light of dawn. Also heard singing from the forest on a couple of other occasions. Endemic to Sulawesi. Pied Chat Saxicola caprata: A couple seen in open country around Lore Lindu. PARDALOTIDAE Flyeater (Golden-bellied Gerygone) Gerygone sulphurea: Often heard in the forest at Lore Lindu where we eventually saw one. Also seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds, and once more right at the end of the trip, in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. The form concerned, flaveola, is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and sings slightly differently to birds from elsewhere in Asia. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler Bradypterus castaneus: Commonly heard in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, with several birds actually seen although usually just flipping across the track. One did however appear in front of us, walking on the track, as we waited for the Geomalia. Endemic to Sulawesi and the South Moluccas. Gray’s Grasshopper Warbler Locustella fasciolata: Several birds heard calling harshly at Foli, but just one flight view was all we achieved there. Near Sidangoli they were a little more obliging, with two birds seen perched out on our last morning there. Australian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus australis: Three were seen in the mangrove trees at Ujung Pandang fishponds. The endemic subspecies concerned is celebensis, which if you choose to separate the various forms of Clamorous Reed Warbler A. stentoreus, this one is supposedly placed with the Australian. Oriental Reed Warbler (Eastern Great Reed W) Acrocephalus orientalis: A couple of these northern migrants showed around the pools at Doloduo. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: Perhaps the commonest bird in the montane forests at Lore Lindu. The Sulawesi form is quite distinctive, showing a grey belly, but the song sound similar to the mainland forms. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum: Not uncommon at Lore Lindu, seen regularly and heard often. Fairly drab and chunky compared to typical Phylloscopus warblers. Endemic to Sulawesi. Tawny Grassbird Megalurus timoriensis (H): Heard in grassy swamps near Wuasa. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Singles were seen in paddies at Wuasa and at Ujung Pandang fishponds. MUSCICAPIDAE Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta: These migrants from NE Asia had obviously arrived for the winter. We found our first on our last morning near Sidangoli, and then odd singles were seen at Tangkoko. Not recorded on our August tours, but quite common in October. Island Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Quite a few were seen in the montane forests at Lore Lindu. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: We found a handful of these furtive midgets along the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Some great looks at confiding birds by Lake Tambing, and more seen along the Anaso track. Blue-fronted Flycatcher Cyornis hoevelli: Several of these most un-cyornis-like Flycatchers seen in the higher forests at Lore Lindu, with a very showy songster on our last morning there. Rather more reminiscent of a Redstart or a Rock Thrush! Endemic to Sulawesi. Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher Cyornis omissus: Just one seen, but a good view nonetheless, a male singing from a thicket along the Sedoa river at Lore Lindu. This form is formerly lumped in Mangrove Blue Flycatcher C. rufigastra. MONARCHIDAE Pale Blue Monarch Hypothymis puella: Our first was a feisty songster at Tambun, then we found others in the Dumoga Bone area and at Tangkoko. Previously lumped in Black-naped Monarch. White-naped Monarch Monarcha pileatus: Great looks at a trio of vocal birds in the forest at Foli, and then one more on our last morning near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas and east Lesser Sundas. Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: A total of eight were seen on Halmahera, with five being seen on our return along the ‘Standardwing trail’ near Sidangoli, plus one on the way out there, lit by spotlight as it roosted on the end of a fine twig. Slaty Flycatcher Myiagra galeata: Three seen on our first day at Foli, with another two seen subsequently. A fairly common Moluccan endemic that responds well to playback of its song. Shining Monarch Piezorhynchus alecto: An early morning glimpse of one at Foli was supplemented by views of a singing bird seen as we returned from the Standardwing lek. RHIPIDURIDAE Willie Wagtail Rhipidura leucophrys: Notably common along the roadsides in Halmahera as we drove between Sidangoli and Tobelo, with a nest seen perched on top of a telephone pole. Others were seen at Foli, Lami and Sidangoli, a sign of our closer proximity to Australasia! Rusty-bellied Fantail Rhipidura teysmanni: An attractive and fairly common Sulawesi region endemic that we encountered regularly at Lore Lindu. PETROICIDAE Citrine Flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea: An attractive bird seen regularly at Lore Lindu. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Yellow-flanked Whistler Hylocitrea bonensis: A total of three, none of which showed for long, on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. A Sulawesi endemic that is always rather hard to see. Maroon-backed Whistler Coracornis raveni: A good look at a vocal male that circled us a couple of times while we stood inside the forest at Lore Lindu. Generally, a real sneak! Endemic to Sulawesi. Yellow-vented Whistler (Sulphur-bellied W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer: The most visible Whistler in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, and often quite vocal. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis: A couple of females were seen at Foli, then a furtive male circled us on our way back from the Standardwing lek. Another male also played hide and seek with us on our last morning near Sidangoli. The distinctive form concerned, mentalis, is endemic to the north Moluccas, and differs from most races by showing an incomplete black breast band. Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonota: A total of four of these demure little birds were seen at Foli. Not the most memorable of the birds we found there! Endemic to Sula and the Moluccas. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Seen often throughout the trip, on both islands and in a range of altitudes. Ivory-backed Wood Swallow Artamus monachus: Seen regularly at Lore Lindu, with some good views of perched birds that had a nest near Lake Tambing, and some begging juveniles seen as we departed via Dongi Dongi. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Heard scolding at Tangkoko, plus one seen there. A winter visitor. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: One seen at Jakarta airport. STURNIDAE Moluccan Starling Aplonis mysolensis: Strangely thin on the ground this year, we saw a small number at Foli, showing the dark eye, large bill an shorter tail that separates this from Metallic Starling. Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor: At least three small flocks of these were seen around forest edge and cultivation in the Lore Lindu area. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis: Our first sighting was of a flock perched on a church between Manado and Dumoga Bone, then a single was seen at Toraut, plus more flocks found at Tangkoko. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica: The commoner starling on Halmahera, there were dozens if not hundreds at Foli, always with their piercing red-eyes. Sulawesi Crested Myna Basilornis celebensis: Another ‘missable’ bird that we did well for, with multiple sightings in the Sedoa river valley that totalled more than a dozen. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-necked Myna Streptocitta albicollis: Our first sighting of four at Karaenta Forest was not supplemented until we saw a pair on the Molibagu road. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Fiery-browed Starling Enodes erythrophris: Common from the higher altitude forest at Lore Lindu down to the Sedoa river valley, we had multiple opportunities to enjoy this colourful fellow. Endemic to Sulawesi. Grosbeak Starling Scissirostrum dubium: Another very attractive starling on this tour, with his waxy red rump-feather tips and huge yellow bill. We found a flock at Toraut where they crowded around hole-ridden dead tree, and at Tangkoko where they were common along the ridge road and in the mangroves. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. MELIPHAGIDAE Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater (L Streaked H) Myza celebensis: After a couple of very brief glimpses at Lore Lindu, we finally got one to perform on some ginger flowers. Endemic to Sulawesi, and found lower down than the following species. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater (G Streaked H) Myza sarasinorum: A couple of brief sightings of this sneaky fellow were all that we could manage, despite repeated efforts on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. Quite a bit bigger than the preceding species and showing distinctive whitish patches of bare skin on the face. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-streaked Friarbird Melitograis gilolensis: At least three of these rather unspectacular birds seen along the logging road at Foli, and then a couple more on our last morning near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Dusky Honeyeater Myzomela obscura: A rather brief view of a single at Foli. Sulawesi Myzomela Myzomela sanguinolenta: We managed to all get some good looks eventually of these sprightly little scarlet gems, in the higher forests of Lore Lindu. This endemic form is formerly lumped in Scarlet Honeyeater M. chloroptera. NECTARINIIDAE Brown-throated Sunbird (Plain-t S) Anthreptes malacensis: A fair number seen at Karaenta, a single at Wuasa, then several more at Tangkoko. Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: Seen commonly on Halmahera particularly at Foli, also found more sparsely on Sulawesi with birds noted at Karaenta, Lore Lindu and Dumoga Bone. Olive-backed Sunbird (Yellow-bellied S) Nectarinia jugularis: Seen frequently and commonly on both islands. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: A pair on the Molibagu road at Dumoga Bone were the only ones of the trip. The race here is beccarii. DICAEIDAE Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum: Good numbers of these seen at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, the Molibagu road and also at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni: At least three were seen; a couple of glimpses in the higher forest at Lore Lindu, then a female that posed at length in the Sedoa river valley. Endemic to Sulawesi. Flame-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrothorax: Often hard to track down, we found one in the forest at Foli, then another at Lami. Endemic to the Moluccas. Grey-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum: Seen regularly in suitable habitat on Sulawesi, in all the forest areas that we visited. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. ZOSTEROPIDAE Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Regularly encountered in the higher parts of Lore Lindu. Lemon-bellied White-eye (Moluccan W-e) Zosterops chloris: Our first were in scrub along the Sedoa river, with a couple of more sightings in the Lore Lindu area. Also seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Black-ringed White-eye Zosterops anomalus: Our target at the Karaenta Forest gave itself up quickly, where we found three of these south Sulawesi endemics singing away merrily. Cream-throated White-eye Zosterops atriceps: Our first was seen en-route to Tobelo, then at Foli one was singing in the tree adjacent to our lodgings as we settled in. Others were heard there subsequently, but we were looking for bigger prizes! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops atrifrons: Seen quite commonly at Lore Lindu, both in the higher forest and in the scrub along the Sedoa river. A single was seen at Tambun and then many were on the ridge road at Tangkoko. Streak-headed Dark-eye (Streaky-h White-eye) Lophozosterops squamiceps: Fairly common and vocal in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. PASSERIDAE Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: The common sparrow, present in all open and built up areas. ESTRILDIDAE Blue-faced Parrot-finch Erythrura trichroa: A glimpse of one was had along the Anaso track, then as we departed the Lore Lindu area, we chanced upon three that were flying around a rice paddy full of Munias. Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides: A couple were seen from the Jakarta Airport Hotel lounge window, during our wait on the return leg. Black-faced Munia (Moluccan M) Lonchura molucca: En route to Palu from Lore Lindu, we found a rice paddy with at least 30 of these buzzing around it. A couple were also seen at Foli. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: A dozen or more in the above-mentioned flocks between Palu and Lore Lindu, plus a few more at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca: Some small flocks were around Wuasa, and then many more between Lore Lindu and Palu. A few more we noted at Doloduo. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida: Some nice looks at 8 or more of these, in paddies close to Palu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Lesser Sundas. FRINGILLIDAE Mountain Serin (Indonesian S) Serinus estherae: We often have to settle for flight views of these fellows, so it was a bonus to find three perched in a tree beside the Anaso track. The race here is undescribed, and differs from other races in having orange instead of yellow on the rump, face and forehead. MAMMALS Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus: With a fair amount of presumption over the identity of these due to the lack of a mammal guide, we saw several of these at Lore Lindu and at Tangkoko. Spectral Tarsier Tarsius spectrum: One of these spooky-looking little nocturnal creatures seen roosting on the outside of a well-shaded tree at Tangkoko. Moor Macaque Macaca maura: Three seen at Karaenta forest. Sulawesi Crested Macaque Macaca nigra: A fine looking troop of these impressive beasts appeared in the beach forest at Tangkoko. Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana: Four were seen (and heard!) along the Sedoa river valley.

Image Galleries:
 Sulawesi & Halmahera sept/oct 2007 (Birdquest)