Myanmar December 2006 (Birdquest)

BURMA 9 - 27 DECEMBER 2006 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: CHUCK BRAUN, RICHARD CLIFFORD and GEOFFREY FIELD This was the third Birdquest tour to visit Burma (or Myanmar as it likes to be called these days) and was an extended version of what we have done previously. Incorporating Kalaw and Inle Lake in the Shan State, plus Moyengyi and Shwe Sattaw Wildlife Sanctuaries, this is now a countrywide tour around a very bird-rich circuit. We recorded 391 species (surely a record?) that included all of the endemics, plus some that are just now in the process of being split. The 'jewel in the crown' of the endemic birds is of course the gorgeous White-browed Nuthatch, restricted to Mt Victoria and its adjacent ridges, which is exactly where we found it. Hooded Treepie, Jerdon's Minivet, Burmese Bushlark and White-throated Babbler all appeared in the lowlands, and on Mt Victoria we found the restricted-range Striped, Brown-capped and Assam Laughingthrushes, Chin Hills Wren Babbler, Mount Victoria Babax and the newly split Burmese Tit. Across the other side of the country we found Collared Mynas and numerous shiny Jerdon's Bushchats. In addition to these sparkling headlines we also saw Rain Quail, Grey-headed and Blossom-headed Parakeets (a real stronghold for the family here), Pied Harrier and White-eyed Buzzards, a gorgeous female of the scarce White-rumped Falcon, Pale-capped Pigeon, Black-breasted and Grey-sided Thrushes, five species of Nuthatch (White-browed, White-tailed, Velvet-fronted, Chestnut-vented and Chestnut-bellied), Black-bibbed Tit, Crested Finchbill, Blue-winged, White-browed and Silver-eared Laughingthrushes, a profusion of babblers that included Red-faced Liocichla, Spot-breasted Scimitar Babblers, Scaly-breasted, Spotted and Streaked Wren Babblers, Cutia, Spectacled, Rusty-fronted and Streak-throated Barwings, Dark-backed and Grey Sibias and a charming flock of Black-throated Parrotbills. It all adds up to irresistible collection of birds. We arrived in the sunshine of Yangon and began our visit with calming pilgrimage to the stunning golden spires of the Shwedagon pagoda. Our first birding wasn't far behind, with a dawn visit to Hlawga Park close to Yangon. Here we found six Pale-capped Pigeons, one of which appeared on a track in front of us and then perched in plain view in a small tree. A lifer for the leader! A host of other birds appeared, many feeding around fruiting trees, such as the interesting davisoni form of Stripe-throated Bulbul that has a white eye, Thick-billed and Green Imperial Pigeons, Racket-tailed Treepie, Crested Serpent Eagle, Thick-billed Flowerpecker and hordes of Chestnut-headed and Green Bee-eaters. From here we traveled the short distance to Moyengyi Wildlife Sanctuary, where our lodgings were perched on the edge of a vast swamp, with boat-shaped chalets offering an uninterrupted view of the marshes. Taking to the water in a long-tail boat we gracefully skimmed through the lotus fields and along the rank edges, finding Barn Owl, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, legions of Grey-headed Swamphens, large numbers of Egrets and Herons plus Yellow Bitterns. Passerines also featured, with innumerable Black Drongos, Chestnut-tailed Starlings, Rusty-rumped, Black-browed and Oriental Reed Warblers, but perhaps the most important find was a flock of Asian Golden Weavers. Despite being in non-breeding plumage their swollen bills strongly indicated their identity, plus a few birds had remnants of bright yellow on their underparts. Curiously, the place was infested with Plaintive Cuckoos, an exceptional concentration with at least 200 birds estimated, but probably many more present. We guessed that such an unusual gathering, with both adults and juveniles in almost equal numbers, may have had something to do with the caterpillar plague that appeared to be ravaging the abundant lotus plants. Following this comfortable beginning, we headed north to Pyay and then into the dry lowland forests of the west bank of the Irrawaddy. Here our target was the elusive Hooded Treepie, and early the next morning as we began our search. Before long, a harsh call drew our attention to a pair of these delightful birds feeding in a bamboo clump, rather unobtrusive and skulking. As handsome as it is scarce, we felt lucky to have found it with such ease. With this important endemic under our belt we could turn our attentions to the other birds typical of this habitat, such as Streak-throated Woodpecker and Greater Flameback, Alexandrine and Red-breasted Parakeets, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Black-naped and Black-hooded Orioles, Rosy and Small Minivets, White-browed Fantail, Blue-throated Flycatcher and Common Woodshrike. On reaching our simple but comfortable accommodation at the Shwe Sattaw Wildlife Sanctuary resthouse, a short stroll around the environs revealed our first White-throated Babblers, another attractive endemic that is restricted to the dry valleys of the Irrawaddy watershed. Around Shwe Sattaw are large areas of low-stature dry deciduous forest, and as we walked the dirt roads of the area we found Chinese Francolin, Grey-headed and Blossom-headed Parakeets, Burmese Shrikes, Brown Prinia, the interesting xanthocycla form of Eurasian Collared Dove that sports a prominent yellow eye-ring, another Hooded Treepie, Brown-backed Needletail, River Lapwing, Wire-tailed Swallow, Ashy Woodswallow, Chestnut-capped and Yellow-eyed Babblers, and Plain and Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers. Continuing our travels northwards we passed through a mosaic of dry forest and low-intensity arable land, crossing several broad rivers. This is good habitat for the endemic Jerdon's Minivet, a beautiful yet elusive bird recently split from the White-bellied Minivet of India. Early on in our journey a female rather helpfully popped up by the roadside, offering some great views before drifting away from us. We encountered another small flock as we continued through this habitat, though these were restless and slipped away as we began to chase them. This dry country also yielded numerous Burmese Bushlarks (another endemic, formerly lumped with Rufous-winged Bushlark), more White-throated Babblers, Oriental Honey and White-eyed Buzzard, and numerous Vinous-breasted Starlings. The birds in this part of the world repeatedly throw up interesting taxonomic questions, just one of which is that this form of Vinous-breasted Starling has a red bill and is smaller than the yellow-billed birds in the rest of South-east Asia. Perhaps Burmese Starling would be an appropriate name? As we drew closer to the Chin Hills, we paused in forest with a more evergreen component, finding White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Scarlet Minivets, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Crested Treeswifts, numerous Grey-headed Parakeets and a pair of Kalij Pheasants. At the end of the day we reached our comfortable lodgings at 1800m on Mt Victoria, with a rather different climate that required several layers of clothing and hot water bottles! Reaching to over 3000m, Mount Victoria is both an extension of Himalayan avifauna and an exciting centre of endemism, and the star bird here is White-browed Nuthatch (the specific name of victoriae is a bit of a giveaway!) Needless to say, on our first morning we drove up to the higher reaches of the mountain to give chase, and within a short time a pair appeared in the cold morning sunshine. A great start to our stay here, we continued birding the rich old-growth evergreen forest, finding the restricted-range Assam and Brown-capped Laughingthrushes, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Himalayan Buzzards, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Grey-sided Thrush, Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robins (split from Northern Red-flanked Bush Robin), Blue-fronted Redstarts, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Bar-tailed and the recently split Manipur Treecreeper, Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher, Chestnut-headed Tesia, abundant Buff-barred Warblers, Whistler's Warbler, Rusty-fronted Barwings, Grey Sibia, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, Red-tailed Minla, White-browed Fulvetta, Fire-tailed Sunbirds, Russet Sparrow and a glorious view of three Mount Victoria Babax. We spent five full days on the mountain, birding the subtly different habitats at various altitudes, and despite the atypically low temperatures this year we succeeded in locating most of the key species. On our second day alone we found the restricted-range Streak-throated Barwing, Rufous-bellied and Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Collared Owlet, Maroon and Slender-billed Orioles, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Black-bibbed Tits, the khasiana race of Black-throated Prinia, obliging flocks of Red-faced Liocichla (no tape required!), Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Rusty-capped, Rufous-winged and Nepal Fulvettas, Green and Black-eared Shrike Babblers, astoundingly numerous Yellow-bellied Flowerpeckers (17 in a day!) and our first encounter with the delightful little Chin Hills Wren Babbler. The habitat on Mt Victoria is still mostly in good condition, and it was a tonic to see large areas of evergreen forest that has never been logged. However, pressure comes from the lower altitudes, with uncontrolled clearance for slash-and-burn cultivation, along with low-intensity usage of the forests (and the birds!) by local people. The secondary-growth dominated middle altitudes do hold some important birds though, and in scrubby and rank forest margins we found several attractive Striped Laughingthrushes, restricted to Western Burma and the adjacent South Assam Hills. We had a close view of that arch-skulker, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, and in thick stands of bamboo we found a busy flock of Black-throated Parrotbills that entertained us so much we voted it 'Bird-of-the-trip'. Many birds up here tend to be shy of people (locals encountered were often carrying slingshots!) however we racked up a long list of birds that included Bay Woodpecker, Greater Yellownape, Great, Golden-throated and Blue-throated Barbets, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Black Eagle, Grey-chinned and Short-billed Minivet, White-tailed Nuthatch, Burmese Tit (recently split from Black-browed), Crested Finchbill, Striated, Flavescent and Mountain Bulbuls, Large, Rufous-bellied and Vivid Niltava, Slaty-backed Flycatcher, Chestnut-flanked White-eye, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Yellow-streaked, Radde's, Buff-throated, Ashy-throated, Grey-hooded and Grey-crowned Warblers, Blue-winged and Chestnut-tailed Minlas, Mrs Gould's and Green-tailed Sunbirds, flocks of Little Buntings and a group of the isolated heinrichi race of Yellow-breasted Greenfinch. A large flock of Cutia trawled through epiphyte-laden trees along with White-browed Shrike Babblers, and fast-moving flocks in the undergrowth contained numerous Silver-eared Mesias, Golden Babblers and a Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler. A Spotted Wren Babbler was in good voice, popping out at the roadside, looking both ways before crossing! Not displeased to return to the warmth of the lower altitudes, we headed back towards the Irrawaddy, stopping frequently in the roadside forest that lined our route, pleasant birding enhanced by the almost total absence of traffic. An early stop provided the fifth Nuthatch of the trip - a Chestnut-bellied, plus White-bellied Woodpecker and Yellow-bellied Warbler. A search among the dry deciduous forest for White-rumped Falcon was successful when we found a lovely female sat by the roadside, intently gazing at the ground as we gathered around her. We reached our next destination of Bagan just before dusk, time enough to see a Laggar Falcon come skimming over our well-appointed hotel and away over the wide reaches of the Irrawaddy. With White-eyed Buzzard and Oriental Honey Buzzard, it had been a great day for raptors. Bagan, famous for its huge acreage of innumerable old pagodas on the banks of the Irrawaddy, hosts some great birds too. As the morning sun began to warm the brown towers of the ancient stupas, we began a hunt for Rain Quail among the rough grass and scrappy crops, flushing Chinese Francolin and Barred Buttonquail before finding our target. We enjoyed some reasonable looks at several, both on the ground and in rather languid fly-pasts. A male Pied Harrier circled overhead, and we found Tickell's Warblers, Blyth's and Long-billed Pipits, and Plain-backed Sparrow. Both Burmese Bushlark and White-throated Babblers featured commonly here, and we enjoyed several Spotted Owlets, some roosting in a hollow tree, others appearing in the half-light over our al fresco breakfast buffet. We briefly paused our birding to take in one of the finest pagodas, resplendent with huge golden Buddhas, before getting back to business! Taking to the river, we sailed down the Irrawaddy with its many sandbanks that were home to Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Spotted Redshank, Temminck's Stint, brightly plumaged Red-throated Pipits and numerous ghostly Sand Larks. On a larger island with a lush natural growth of grass we found several dapper White-tailed Stonechats, plus a few Red Avadavat. The river itself was dotted with Ruddy Shelducks and Burmese Spot-billed Ducks, and a large gathering of Small Pratincole came hawking over the lazy river as the sun set in spectacular fashion. From here it was on to terra nova, with a short internal flight to Heho in the Shan State. A curious landscape greeted us, with bright sun shining down on the red soil of the arable fields stretching across this plateau. On a roadside pool we found Grey-headed Lapwings, and once we had ascended to the old Hill station of Kalaw at 1350m, we set about exploring the marginal habitats around town. We found White-browed Laughingthrushes, White-browed Scimitar Babblers, Brown-breasted Bulbul, Long-tailed and Brown Shrikes, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Buff-throated Warblers, Black-headed Greenfinch and Hill Prinia. The most interesting habitat here is the remnant of evergreen forest around an old colonial period reservoir. Here we found a very high density of birds (once the sun had risen enough to melt away the frost!) and added Speckled Piculet, Blue-eared Barbet, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, Himalayan Swiftlet, a delightful flock of Silver-breasted Broadbills, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Little Pied and Hill Blue Flycatchers, White-crowned Forktails, Yellow-cheeked and Black-throated Tits, Ashy Bulbuls, Blyth's and White-tailed Leaf Warblers, Bianchi's Warbler and Silver-eared Laughingthrush (split from Chestnut-crowned). We enjoyed Puff-throated Babblers hopping around our feet, a prolonged look at a Streaked Wren Babbler feeding in the open, plus Spectacled Barwing, Silver-eared Mesia, Dark-backed Sibia and Black-throated Sunbird. Our last morning around the town yielded a Great Spotted Woodpecker (within the range of the species but they don't go much farther south!), Slender-billed Oriole, some gorgeous Black-breasted Thrushes feeding in a fruiting tree and some Japanese White-eyes. We left town still searching for Collared Myna, and eventually found two, rather strangely skulking inside bushes by the roadside, nervous and shy. This is actually the first time this species has been seen on a Birdquest tour. From here it was a short drive to Inle Lake and our final night stop of the tour. The lake is set in a basin-like depression at 900m, surrounded by low hills, and is famous for it's leg-rowers. Local people who make their living from the lake stand on the back of their canoes, one leg firmly planted on the deck, the other foot wrapped around the oar which is then paddled using the whole leg in an action worthy of a Yogic master! Our hotel overlooked the lake, and indeed our rooms were actually on stilts over the water. We boarded a long-tail boat to explore the reedy margins, and just a short way from our lodgings the rare Jerdon's Bushchats made their appearance, with many of the lovely shining males perching up on the reed stems. Among the rafts of Duck we found Ferruginous Pochards, Mallard, Northern Pintail and Garganey, also Brown-headed Gulls, both Eastern and Western Marsh Harriers here together, and along the edges we found Bluethroat, Rusty-rumped Warbler, Black-browed Reed Warbler, Yellow-bellied Prinia and Citrine Wagtail. A Collared Scops Owl called loudly from the hotel garden, and as the time came to pack up and leave, an Asian Barred Owlet appeared in the morning sun. We returned to Heho, took our final internal flight to Yangon and headed our separate ways. Invigorated by this Burmese birding experience (I certainly didn't want to leave!), we departed with a pleasant glow induced by having seen some terrific birds. We enjoyed a very comfortable trip, with an extensive itinerary that provided the best birding this country has to offer. Despite the image of the country, with it's authoritarian government attracting sanctions from the U.S., we never encountered any form of state interference or officialdom and had the impression that the government just allows people to get on with their lives, albeit in poverty. Visiting this sleepy country will continue to get easier, thanks in part to the helpfulness of the locals, and this is a great trip for anyone looking for a little-known but very productive destination. SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PHASIANIDAE Chinese Francolin Francolinus pintadeanus: One seen briefly in flight at Shwe Sattaw, then another somewhat better flight view at Bagan. Rain Quail Coturnix coromandelica: Five or more seen around the pagodas at Bagan, several times in flight (a rather languid flight for a Coturnix) and also briefly on the ground where their black breast markings could be seen. Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola (H): Heard on two occasions high on Mt Victoria. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Two were disturbed at Hlawga Park.. Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos: A pair were seen scuttling away from us in the forest between Kazunma and Saw. These birds would refer to the lathami race. DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna javanica: Flocks of hundreds seen at Moyengyi and on Inle lake. Also seen in Hlawga Park. ANATIDAE Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Plentiful on the Irrawaddy river at Bagan, with at least 100 or more there, plus another ten seen on Inle lake. Cotton Pygmy Goose Nettapus coromandelianus: A group seen on the ponds in Hlawga Park, then more small flocks at Moyengyi. Gadwall Anas strepera: Some 15 on Inle Lake. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: A hundred or more on Inle Lake. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: A single drake on Inle Lake. Burmese Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha: A fair number seen on the Irrawaddy at Bagan, and many more on Lake Inle. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: A couple of females amongst the rafts of wildfowl at Inle Lake. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: Hundreds at Moyengyi, then a similar gathering on Lake Inle. Garganey Anas querquedula: Thirty or more seen at Moyengyi, then hundreds more on Inle Lake. Common Teal Anas crecca: Three on the Irrawaddy at Bagan, and another 15 or more at Inle Lake. Ferruginous Pochard Aythya nyroca: Some 30 or more of these handsome ducks at Inle Lake. TURNICIDAE Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: Some flight views of four around the pagodas at Bagan, their rusty vents visible in flight. One also flushed on our first evening at Shwe Sattaw. PICIDAE Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla: Two seen by the reservoir at Moyengyi, plus another at Shwe Sattaw. Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus: Three seen near Kalaw at Yayayekan. Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopus canicapillus: Seen on three occasions in various forest habitats. Stripe-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopus atratus: A great look at one on our first morning on Mt Victoria, plus one other seen during our stay there. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopus hyperythrus: Several seen on Mt Victoria where they were vocal and obvious. A very handsome bird! Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopus cathpharius: About four individuals seen on Mt Victoria, with good views acquired eventually. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus major: A good look at a male in the pines at Kalaw. Rather a surprise to find one of these all the way down here, possibly the furthest south that this species occurs. The race here is cabanisi, and the Palearctic range of this bird extends down through south-east Tibet into northern SE Asia. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: A single bird was seen well in flight near Saw, with others heard drumming there. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: Two birds seen in the dry forest on the lower slopes of Mt Victoria. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus: A female seen well between Pyay and Shwe Sattaw. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus: A single bird seen at Ngagarbwet, also heard on Mt Victoria. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: A male seen near Pyay, and another glimpsed at Yayayekan. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: Given the natural shyness of this bird, we had a good if quick look at one on Mt Victoria, with another glimpsed there plus several heard. Also heard at Yayayekan. MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Odd ones of these colourful fellows seen at Mt Victoria and Yayayekan. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Not very vocal, but often seen foraging for fruit on Mt Victoria. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: A couple seen in a fruiting tree on Mt Victoria, another in Kalaw and several at Yayayekan. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: A single example was seen in a big fruiting tree at Yayayekan. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Numerous at Hlawga Park, then seen again at Kalaw. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe Upupa epops: Odd singles seen along our route. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Frequently seen in lowland open areas and forest edge. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Common at Inle Lake plus odd ones seen on the Irrawaddy and at Moyengyi. HALCYONIDAE Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis (NL): Richard saw one while on his 'pagoda-quest' at Bagan. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Regularly encountered. CERYLIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: One on the river at Shwe Sattaw, then eight were seen along the Irrawaddy. MEROPIDAE Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Common in typical lowland dry habitats. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Several seen around Moyengyi reservoir. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Plenty seen at Hlawga Park on our first full day. CUCULIDAE Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Three birds seen at Yayayekan, also heard at Kalaw. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: Astounding numbers around Moyengyi, where estimates were difficult but they must have exceeded 200, presumably feeding on caterpillars that plagued the lotus fields. A single also seen at Bagan. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea (H): I forgot this one for the day-to-day list, but I heard it from the Pyay hotel at dusk. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: Odd singles seen along our route. CENTROPODIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: A single seen by Chuck between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma, also heard at Bagan and Inlay Lake. PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Some noisy fly-pasts by these big parrots near Pyay and around Shwe Sattaw, and also near Saw where they were seen perched. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri (H): Some calling birds going over at Bagan was our only contact. Grey-headed Parakeet Psittacula finschii: Numerous birds seen flying about at Shwe Sattaw, we finally got some useful views of perched birds at Ngagarbwet. Also seen in the lowland forests between Saw and Kazunma. Blossom-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata: Rather numerous around Shwe Sattaw where we had some very good views, also seen well near Saw. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Plenty seen near Pyay and around Shwe Sattaw, and then again near Saw. APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia brevirostris: Three birds seen near Kalaw. Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus: A single bird cruised over us at Shwe Sattaw. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Seen occasionally in the lowlands, especially where there were toddy palms. House Swift Apus affinis: Small flocks wheeling around the Shwedagon enhanced our experience of the golden pagoda. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Quite a few seen, noisily calling overhead in the lowland forests between Shwe Sattaw and Mt Victoria. TYTONIDAE Barn Owl Tyto alba: A rather bewildered bird seen escaping the Crows at Moyengyi, also heard making their hissing screeches at our Bagan hotel. STRIGIDAE Collared Scops Owl Otus lempiji: A bird calling loudly between our cabins and the restaurant at Inle Lake was glimpsed in flight. Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica (H): Having listened to sound recordings on arriving home, I can confirm that it was this species calling distantly on Mt Victoria on our first 'Frogmouth foray'. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei: A fortunate encounter with one on Mt Victoria that the small birds chose to mob, rather than us who were imitating his call (which is probably what brought him in!) Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: A perched bird seen at Inle Lake, in the hotel garden just as we were departing on our last morning. Spotted Owlet Athene brama: Some great views of these around Bagan, with three birds roosting in a hollow tree, and two joining us for breakfast in the garden of our hotel. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia: Available. Ashy Wood-Pigeon Columba pulchricollis: Seen on three days in the forest on Mt Victoria, although never better than a quick flight view. Rather nervous! Pale-capped Pigeon Columba punicea: Hurray! The leader gets a lifer! After an absence of some years, Hlawga Park is once again a good place to see these. We encountered at least six, mostly in flight but we had a stunning look at a bird that started off on the track and then went up into tree for prolonged perched views. Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Singles were seen on Mt Victoria and near Saw, then several more seen around Kalaw. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Frequently encountered in the lowlands. Red Turtle-Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: Three seen at Shwe Sattaw and two more at Bagan. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: A couple of singles were seen at Shwe Sattaw. The race xanthocycla in the Irrawaddy valley is an interesting taxon, with an isolated population, a bold yellow eye ring, darker overall plumage and more vinous underparts. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall (H): Heard early one morning on Mt Victoria.. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A single seen zipping across the road, lower down on Mt Victoria. Thick-billed Green Pigeon Treron curvirostra: Three seen in fruiting trees at Hlawga Park. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera: One seen near Pyay and a couple at Shwe Sattaw. Pin-tailed Green Pigeon Treron apicauda: At least five were seen lurking in a big fruiting tree at Yayayekan. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura: A single furtive bird seen on Mt Victoria. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: Three in fruiting trees at Hlawga Park were the only ones of the trip. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia (H): Heard distantly at Yayayekan. RALLIDAE Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca (H): Several birds heard calling from the reedbeds at Inle Lake. Grey-headed Swamphen Porphyrio poliocephalus: Very numerous at Moyengyi, with a handful more seen at Inle. Robson wrongly refers to the birds in southern Myanmar as indicus (now often separated as Black-backed Swamphen), however all the birds we saw were clearly poliocephalus. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Seen at Hlawga Park, Moyengyi and near Heho. Common Coot Fulica atra: A single seen at Moyengyi, then a raft of a thousand or so seen on Inle Lake. SCOLOPACIDAE Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: A couple flushed at Moyengyi. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: A flock of 50 flew over at Moyengyi. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: Eight seen on the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Five seen on the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Seen at Hlawga, Shwe Sattaw, and near Heho. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Good numbers at Moyengyi, plus a couple more seen at Inle Lake. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Plentiful along the Irrawaddy at Bagan, also seen at Shwe Sattaw and Heho. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii: Three seen along the Irrawaddy at Bagan. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Very numerous at both Moyengyi and Inle Lake. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: A handful seen at Moyengyi. CHARADRIIDAE Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Some airborne flocks seen at Moyengyi, plus a couple on the sandbanks of the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A couple seen along the way, then an estimated 100 or more along the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Some 50 plus found with the above along the Irrawaddy at Bagan. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: Five seen by the river at Shwe Sattaw, then a handful present on sandbanks at Bagan. Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus: Three seen on a scrappy pool near Heho. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Only seen in Hlawga Park and along the river at Shwe Sattaw. GLAREOLIDAE Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: A gathering at dusk over the Irrawaddy at Bagan numbered in hundreds as they hawked over the river, offering some splendid views from our boat. LARIDAE Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: A good number were seen on the Yangon river, then not again until Inle Lake where we saw some 30 or so. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Just a single seen, at Moyengyi. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Two birds seen at Hlawga Park. Oriental Honey-Buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus: Perched birds were seen at the roadsides in the Kazunma area, then four or more seen taking to the thermals over Bagan. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Singles were seen at Bagan, Heho, and a nice juvenile at Inle Lake. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: A single bird at the Shwedagon in Yangon was the only one of the trip. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela: Perched birds were seen well at Hlawga Park and Yayayekan. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus: Two were seen at Inle Lake, perhaps the first time I have seen this species together with the following one. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: Seen several times at Moyengyi, then one or two more were at Inle Lake. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: A male and a female were seen at Moyengyi, another male between there and Pyay, and then great views were had of a splendid male soaring overhead at Bagan. Crested Goshawk Accipter trivirgatus: A single bird seen soaring over Mt Victoria was at an atypically high altitude. Shikra Accipiter badius: The typical Accipiter of the lowlands, with three seen around Shwe Sattaw, and a single at Bagan. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Four singles seen, all between 1100m and 1700m. White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa: Three perched birds were seen, all in open country in the lowlands around Kazunma. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmannicus: Often seen on Mt Victoria, and again in the Kalaw area. This is split from Common Buzzard B. buteo by Rasmussen & Anderton, although Robson only lists B. buteo japonicus (ignoring burmannicus) as occurring in Myanmar. I think Buteo taxonomy has some way to go yet! Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Seen twice on Mt Victoria, cruising the treetops in typical fashion. Changeable Hawk Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: A single adult was seen at Hlawga Park. Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: One seen very well on Mt Victoria during our first lunchtime, plus another seen fleetingly. FALCONIDAE White-rumped Falcon Polihierax insignis: A close second for 'Bird-of-the-trip', we had a fantastic prolonged view of a female in dry woodland near Kazunma. Hard to find anywhere within it's range, not least because of it's habit of sitting motionless for long periods! A lucky bit of spotting! Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Several seen along our route. Laggar Falcon Falco jugger: A rather nice surprise for two of us who independently both decided to check the sunset soon after arriving at our Bagan hotel, just in time to see this big dark fellow come zooming over us and away across the river. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Three seen at Hlawga Park. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Two were seen at Hlawga Park and a couple more singles seen at Moyengyi. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: A handful seen at Hlawga Park, then many at Moyengyi and Inle Lake. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Three birds seen on the Irrawaddy at Bagan. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: A small number seen at Bagan and Moyengyi. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: A few seen at Moyengyi and also on the sandbanks at Bagan. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Quite a number of these at Moyengyi, plus a small number seen at Inle Lake. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: Quite a few seen at Moyengyi, and also at Bagan. Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia: In good number at Moyengyi and Inle, also seen near Heho. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: The most frequently encountered heron, with a very large (and smelly) roost by our chalets at Moyengyi. Rasmussen & Anderton split this from the Western Cattle Egret B. ibis. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii: This should be the commoner (and resident) Pond Heron. If dusky wingtips is a good feature for Chinese Pond Heron, then we definitely saw both, with most seen at Moyengyi. Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus: As for the above. A winter visitor to Myanmar. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Plenty seen at Moyengyi, plus several day-roosting birds found at Hlawga Park. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: A single bird flushed by our long-tail boat at Moyengyi. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A good 100+ came to roost with the Egrets behind our chalets at Moyengyi. CICONIIDAE Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Up to fifty birds seen at Moyengyi, and a couple over Hlawga Park. EURYLAIMIDAE Silver-breasted Broadbill Serilophus lunatus: A nice surprise to find a flock of ten or so in the forest at Yayayekan. IRENIDAE Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: Three seen in the dry lowland forests. Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii: Three birds seen in the forest at Yayayekan. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Odd singles seen in open country along our route, particularly between Heho and Kalaw. Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides: Not uncommon in lowland dry country, with a high concentration between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: A single seen near Kazunma, then seen regularly in the Shan state. All birds were of the black-headed tricolor race. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: A few singles seen on or near Mt Victoria. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Two taxa of this bird were seen, with four of the dapper moustachioed haringtoni race seen on Mt Victoria and its lower slopes, then three of the bizarre white-faced leucotis race (that calls like a Serpent Eagle!) near Kalaw. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris: Just three seen in the higher forest on Mt Victoria, very shy around here! Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha: Small colourful groups encountered between Pyay and Shwe Sattaw, near Saw and at Kalaw. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: Several seen in the lowland forests of the west bank. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Just one encounter, with a group of three on Mt Victoria. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: Three birds showed well in Hlawga Park. Hooded Treepie Crypsirina cucullata: A splendid encounter with two vocal birds in the dry deciduous forests of the west bank near Pyay. They were typically sneaky though, and after quickly departing from view they returned for a good showing in roadside bamboo. Another one or maybe two were seen along the riverside at Shwe Sattaw. Endemic to Burma. House Crow Corvus splendens: Not uncommon around Yangon and Bagan. These dark, almost uniform birds that had us momentarily confused refer to the insolens race. Eastern Jungle Crow Corvus [macrorhynchos] levaillantii: A small number were seen on Mt Victoria. Note that Rasmussen & Anderton split Large-billed Crow C. macrorhynchos into three species; Large-billed Crow C. [macrorhynchos] japonensis, Indian Jungle Crow C. [macrorhynchos] culminatus, and levaillantii which we encountered. Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus: A handful were found circling over the forest at Shwe Sattaw, plus more en-route to Mt Victoria near Saw. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Several seen in lowland forest around Shwe Sattaw, and they were numerous around the fruiting trees at Hlawga Park. Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris: A couple of these seen in the pines on Mt Victoria, plus another at Kalaw. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: A small number were seen and heard in the lowland forests between around Pyay and Saw. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Regularly encountered in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria, and also at Yayayekan. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: Odd ones were seen in the lowland forests of the west bank, plus another on Mt Victoria. Indochinese Cuckooshrike Coracina polioptera: A female was found on Mt Victoria, and a couple were seen at Yayayekan. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos: A handful were seen, at Hlawga Park and around Shwe Sattaw, although perhaps we didn't study them as critically as we should have done! Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus: A pretty addition to our birding at Hlawga Park, then we had two more encounters with these lovely fellows at Shwe Sattaw and near Pyay. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: Two seen at Hlawga Park, then another between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: A couple of groups seen in the dry forests. Jerdon's Minivet Pericrocotus albifrons: A great look at our first, a female perched up at the roadside between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma. The bird gradually edged away from us and became elusive, though a male was also seen there in flight. Another four flew over the road near Kazunma, but apart from perching briefly they carried on their way. A tricky bird to pin down, this is a good split from the equally isolated Indian population of White-bellied Minivet P. erythropygius. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: Several encountered in the evergreen forest at Mt Victoria, plus a single seen at Kalaw. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: The most frequently seen Minivet on Mt Victoria, and also at Kalaw. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris: A few were seen on Mt Victoria, although several birds were perplexing and appeared intermediate between this and the above species, with a different call to the Himalayan populations. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: A few were seen in forest between Mt Victoria and Kazunma, and many more at Yayayekan. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus: Encountered on three days, in the same places as the above species! Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: Frequently seen on Mt Victoria. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: A small number encountered in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria, also at Yayayekan. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: Seen commonly in the drier forests around Shwe Sattaw. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Often seen, in lowland open country, but remarkably numerous at Moyengyi. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Seen on all but four days of the tour! Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: A single was seen with a mixed bird-flock in forest near Saw, minus rackets, quite possibly wintering at this altitude. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: A few seen in lowland mixed forests and at Yayayekan. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus: Very numerous at Hlawga Park, also seen at various altitudes on Mt Victoria, even at 2500m where they were feeding around sticky tree sap. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Odd birds were seen in lowland forest, though at least twice we found them mimicking Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush calls so well we were completely fooled! Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: Occasionally encountered in lowland mixed forests and also at Yayayekan. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: A common sight and sound in the lowland drier forests. Common Wood-shrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: Frequently encountered in the dry forests of the west bank. MUSCICAPIDAE Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris: Often seen perched in prominent positions at higher elevations on Mt Victoria. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Singles seen low down on Mt Victoria, at Bagan, Kalaw and Inle Lake. Blue Whistling Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus: Shy singles seen on Mt Victoria and at Kalaw. Black-breasted Thrush Turdus dissimilis: Some great looks at this beautiful bird, with a flock of five or more coming to a fruiting tree at Kalaw. Grey-sided Thrush Turdus feae: Unfortunately just some glimpses of two this year, on Mt Victoria.. Eye-browed Thrush Turdus obscurus: Just a single identified, with the above species on Mt Victoria, though others likely to be of this species were seen zooming about in the fog! Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsonii: Very common (at least by voice) at middle altitudes on Mt Victoria. Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata: A few encounters in the forest on Mt Victoria, and a single seen at Yayayekan. Red-throated Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla: Frequently seen along roadsides and forest edges in the lowlands. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Three seen at Yayayekan and a single in Kalaw. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor: Richard saw one on Mt Victoria, and then we had a good view of a male at Kalaw. Verditer Flycatcher Muscicapa thalassina: Singles seen at Hlawga Park, Mt Victoria and Shwe Sattaw. Large Niltava Niltava grandis: A male seen on Mt Victoria was the only sighting. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Geoffrey saw two on Mt Victoria, then another male was present at Kalaw. Vivid Niltava Niltava vivida: A prolonged close look at a female on Mt Victoria. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: Encountered a number of times in lowland mixed forest. Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas: Two males seen well at Yayayekan. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Numerous at Yayayekan, with odd birds seen elsewhere. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope: Heard at Shwe Sattaw, Bagan and Inle Lake, and glimpsed at Kalaw. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: A single bird was seen on the last morning at Inle Lake. Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robin Tarsiger rufilatus: Regularly encountered at the highest elevations on Mt Victoria. Rasmussen & Anderton split this (formerly Orange-flanked Bush Robin or Red-flanked Bluetail T. cyanurus) from Northern Red-flanked Bush Robin T. cyanurus. Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis: Odd ones seen, most commonly around Kalaw. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: One was seen zipping across the road en-route to Mt Victoria, also heard at Hlawga Park. Daurian Redstart Phoenicurus auroreus: One female was seen on Mt Victoria, then three dapper males in the Kalaw area. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: Several seen on Mt Victoria at higher altitudes. White-bellied Redstart Hodgsonius phaenicuroides (H): One heard chacking away from thick undergrowth on Mt Victoria. White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschenaulti: Great views of two or more along the stream at Yayayekan. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Numerous around the wetlands at Moyengyi and Inle Lake, also seen at Bagan and around Kalaw. White-tailed Stonechat Saxicola leucura: A nice treat to find these staked out near Bagan, we saw seven individuals on an island with tall grass, the males especially showed very well. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata: Plenty seen in open country in the lowlands. Jerdon's Bushchat Saxicola jerdoni: The last big thrill of the tour, where at Lake Inle from the comfort of a long-tail boat we saw 14 birds, mostly smart shining males that perched up in the reeds and along the open edges. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea: Seen frequently in the Chin Hills and Kalaw area. STURNIDAE Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus: A sizeable flock buzzed around by our chalets at Moyengyi, which appeared to contain mainly the white-bellied nemoricola race but also some that appeared to be of the chestnut-bellied malabarica race. Also seen at Lake Inle (nemoricola) and a single between Mt Victoria and Kazunma. Black-collared Starling Sturnus nigricollis: A flock went by while we searched for Collared Myna near Kalaw. Vinous-breasted Starling Sturnus burmannicus: Fairly numerous at Bagan, also around Pyay, Shwe Sattaw and Kalaw.. These red-billed birds are of the nominate race, which perhaps in due course will be recognised as a separate species from the larger yellow-billed leucocephalus form found in the rest of South-east Asia. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Scattered sightings around human habitation. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus: Quite a few seen in the Bagan area and at Moyengyi. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: A few en-route to Pyay, a flock at Kalaw and several at Lake Inle. Collared Myna Acridotheres albocinctus: Despite much searching around Kalaw, we only found two, and they unhelpfully chose to skulk inside a thick bush for much of the time - safely out of slingshot range? This was one of the specialities of this trip, and was actually a Birdquest lifer. Its range is restricted to Myanmar and adjacent Manipur and Yunnan. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: A big flock that swelled to 80 birds, at the upper limit of the cleared areas on Mt Victoria. SITTIDAE Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis: The most frequently seen Nuthatch, with multiple encounters on Mt Victoria. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris: Our fifth Nuthatch of the trip! A female appeared in a mixed birdflock in mixed forest near Saw. The race here is neglecta, which ranges across South-east Asia. Given that Rasmussen & Anderton split off Indian Nuthatch S. castanea from Chestnut-bellied S. cinnamoventris, neglecta may represent a third species within the complex of six races of the original S. castanea. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Just one seen, in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. White-browed Nuthatch Sitta victoriae: Our first mission on Mt Victoria was to go to the summit area and look for this crown jewel of Burmese endemics. We were not disappointed when two of these attractive birds appeared in the cold morning sunshine. We had even better views subsequently with another four seen. Endemic to Mt Victoria and its adjoining ridges. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Four seen in lowland forests between Saw and Kazunma, and then more at Yayayekan. CERTHIIDAE Bar-tailed Treecreeper Certhia himalayana: Quite a few seen on Mt Victoria, favouring the old growth pines. This population (race ripponi) is isolated from the Western Himalayan and Chinese populations, but the calls seem the same and I had a bird respond to a tape of a recording I made in Pakistan. Manipur Treecreeper Certhia manipurensis: Quite often encountered in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria, the nominate manipurensis race here showing the most orangey throat of all the races. This is a recently split taxon, covering all the races found in South-east Asia and South-western China, separated from Brown-throated Treecreeper C. discolor that occurs in the Himalayas. PARIDAE Black-bibbed Tit Parus hypermelaena: This perky fellow was found on several occasions at the higher levels of Mt Victoria. It's population here in the Chin Hills range is remote from the main population in south-west China. Great Tit Parus major: A few seen in dryer lowland forest and also around Kalaw. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: A small number seen with mixed flocks on Mt Victoria. Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus: Four seen with mixed flocks at Yayayekan. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: Just a single seen in the higher forest on Mt Victoria. AEGITHALIDAE Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus: Only seen at Yayayekan where they were in good number. Burmese Tit Aegithalos sharpei: A small flock gave us a good if rather quick look at Mt Victoria. These birds are split from Black-browed Tit A. bonvaloti from which it is separated by 600km and shows marked plumage differences. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Plenty at Lake Inle. Grey-throated Sand Martin Riparia chinensis: A few seen along the river at Shwe Sattaw, also fairly numerous around the sandbanks at Bagan. Rasmussen & Anderton split Plain Martin R. paludicola into this form R. chinensis of Asia and Brown-throated Sand Martin R. paludicola of Africa Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Common in the lowlands near water. Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata: A trio of birds by our hotel at Inle Lake were identified by their dark blue hind-collars [Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica/Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata: Flocks were frequently seen, none well enough to distinguish between the resident striolata and the wintering daurica.] Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus: A small flock was seen between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma, plus another over our hotel at Kalaw. PYCNONOTIDAE Crested Finchbill Spizixos canifrons: A healthy number of these in the secondary growth on Mt Victoria. Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus: Fairly plentiful and eventually obliging in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Not bad for a Bulbul! Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: Numerous at Hlawga Park, also a few seen at lower and middle elevations around Mt Victoria and at Kalaw. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: Seen at Hlawga Park, Moyengyi, and then in big numbers at Kalaw and Lake Inle. Brown-breasted Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthorrhous: A fair number seen close to Kalaw, nearly at the southern limit of its range. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: The default Bulbul of lower and middle altitudes in degraded habitat, with some distinct birds at Kalaw looking intermediate between the dark melanchimus race and Sooty-headed Bulbul P. aurigaster. Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni: The birds seen at Hlawga Park are of the race davisoni, restricted to south Myanmar, and look so different that they had me completely foxed for a while! The combination of a pale eye, lack of yellow streaking on the head and darker plumage surely mark out another endemic Burmese taxon. Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens: Several seen in grassy areas at Mt Victoria and around Kalaw. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi: Rather common in the lowlands. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: Only seen at Yayayekan where they were numerous. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii: Several of these noisy birds seen on Mt Victoria, and fairly commonly at Yayayekan. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: A few small groups seen on Mt Victoria and also at Yayayekan. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Several seen at Moyengyi and also in the grass at Bagan. Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa: Our first was singing half-heartedly in grass at Shwe Sattaw, and then others were seen at en-route to Kazunma and at Bagan. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis: We had a good look at some examples of the distinctive rufous-crowned khasiana race on Mt Victoria. Rasmussen & Anderton split this from the following species, although khasiana differs quite markedly from Himalayan atrogularis birds, and should perhaps be considered as a separate species too. Hill Prinia Prinia superciliaris: A couple of birds seen at Kalaw refer to this taxon, which ranges across South-east Asia to southern China. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens: Not uncommon in the dry forests of the west bank and also lower down on Mt Victoria. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: Quite common in the lowland forests, and also seen at Bagan. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris: A single songster showed briefly at Inle Lake. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Quite a few seen at Moyengyi and in grassy areas at Bagan. Heard at Inle Lake. ZOSTEROPIDAE Chestnut-flanked White-eye Zosterops erythropleurus: A small number seen in cherry trees on Mt Victoria. Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: A single seen at Yayayekan. Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonicus: A small party were seen in gardens in Kalaw. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: A total of four of these little sprites seen at Mt Victoria, with numerous others heard. Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes (H): One or two heard only on Mt Victoria. Aberrant Bush Warbler Cettia flavolivacea: Just one seen though not well, on Mt Victoria. This would presumably refer to the race weberi, treated separately in Rasmussen & Anderton but not split by them Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata (H): One heard at Yayayekan. Rusty-rumped Warbler Locustella certhiola: One seen and many heard at Moyengyi, then also heard at Lake Inle with one bird appearing for a view on our last morning there. Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: Quite numerous at Moyengyi. A bird was seen at Lake Inle that may have been either this species or Clamorous Reed Warbler A. stentoreus. Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon: A couple were seen in Kalaw town. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: A few seen along our route, and more commonly around Kalaw. Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis (H): Three heard at Hlawga Park. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: Numerous at Moyengyi, a single at Bagan and several at Kalaw and Inle Lake. Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis: A single was seen between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma, then four were seen in the 'Quail fields' at Bagan. Buff-throated Warbler Phylloscopus subaffinis: A couple of singles seen in grassy areas on Mt Victoria, and they were quite numerous around Kalaw. Yellow-streaked Warbler Phylloscopus armandii: A single seen at lower elevations on Mt Victoria, then another was seen near Yayayekan. Radde's Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi: A couple were seen at lower elevations on Mt Victoria, and a couple more at Yayayekan. Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher: The 'Common Warbler' on Mt Victoria, most numerous at higher altitudes. Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis: Just two seen on Mt Victoria. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: Common except at the very highest elevations. Hume's Warbler Phylloscopus humei: Plenty heard at mid-elevations on Mt Victoria, a few were seen here and also at Kalaw. These birds refer to the mandelli taxon of Hume's Warbler. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus: Several individuals seen at Hlawga Park, near Pyay and at Yayayekan. Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: Just a handful seen, on Mt Victoria and Yayayekan. White-tailed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus davisoni: Several of these seen at Yayayekan, showing very bright yellow-washed faces and supercilium. Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus: A small number were seen with busy bird-flocks at mid-elevations on Mt Victoria. This and the following two species were formerly lumped together as Golden-spectacled Warbler S. burkii. Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri: A total of five birds seen at high elevations on Mt Victoria. Bianchi's Warbler Seicercus valentini: Quite a few encountered at Yayayekan, fortunately this and the previous two species were all calling, just to make the ID a bit easier! Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos: Present at mid-altitudes on Mt Victoria. NB Rasmussen & Anderton place this in Phylloscopus. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Just a single bird seen briefly on Mt Victoria. Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris: A good look at a pair in roadside bamboo near Saw. Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris: Two or more seen at Moyengyi, also heard at Inle Lake. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus (H): Heard only, at Hlawga Park. White-browed Laughingthrush Garrulax sannio: Pleasingly common and showy around Kalaw. Striped Laughingthrush Garrulax virgatus: Restricted to the far-eastern states of India adjacent to Myanmar plus the Chin Hills and Mt Victoria, we put a lot of effort into seeing this skulking fellow. We eventually succeeded in getting good views of two or three without resorting to a tape duel, then happened upon a flock of a dozen that came piling out of the grass and into cover. Brown-capped Laughingthrush Garrulax austeni: Like the above, restricted to western Burma and adjacent parts of India, We had a hard job to get any views of these, with a single pair appearing close to us but never really showing well, at the highest altitudes on Mt Victoria. Others were glimpsed, but they didn't perform either. Blue-winged Laughingthrush Garrulax squamatus: After some lengthy teasing (by us or by them?) we managed a reasonable view of a pair that came up to us within a dense thicket on Mt Victoria Assam Laughingthrush Garrulax chrysopterus: The most frequently seen (and heard) Laughingthrush on Mt Victoria, with several reasonable looks eventually. This is split from Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush G. erythrocephalus by Rasmussen & Anderton, the race here being erythrolaemus that shows a chestnut hood. Silver-eared Laughingthrush Garrulax melanostigma: Following the paper by Collar N.J. (A partial revision of the Asian Babblers: Forktail 22) where all the forms of Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush are treated, the flock of birds that we saw at Yayayekan refer to this taxon, showing a black face and silver cheeks, with a chestnut cap and obvious black primary coverts. The range of this covers E & SE Myanmar, N Thailand, N & C Laos, NW Vietnam and SE Yunnan. Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea: Positively plentiful on Mt Victoria, birds were seen on four days, showing off their intense colours with confidence and never requiring a tape duel! There is a strong difference between the voices of the form occurring in Western Burma, South Assam Hills and Eastern Himalayas, and the form found in Eastern Burma and Northern Thailand. I heard a whisper that somebody will split these two forms in due course. Abbott's Babbler Trichastoma abbotti (H): Sorry, another one I forgot for the day-to-day list! I heard one at breakfast time in Hlawga Park. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps: Heard at Shwe Sattaw, then we had an intimate encounter with a pair feeding on the path, almost under our feet, at Yayayekan. Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus mcclellandi: A very sneaky bird this time around, with just a couple of brief sightings in the undergrowth on Mt Victoria.. In Collar's paper in Forktail (A partial revision of the Asian Babblers: Forktail 22) he divides up Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler P. erythrocnemis four ways, with this monotypic taxon retaining the English name Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler but with the scientific name of P. mcclellandii. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys (H): Heard on a couple of occasions around Kalaw. White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: A furtive one showed briefly in the roadside forest between Saw and Kazunma, then we found them to be common and quite obliging around Kalaw. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: Frequently encountered on Mt Victoria. Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus (NL): A brief view of one for Richard on Mt Victoria. Streaked Wren Babbler Napothera brevicaudata: An outstanding prolonged view of one feeding in the open at Yayayekan. Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: Just the one seen, peeking out briefly from an overgrown stream gully high on Mt Victoria. Others were heard there but no further showings. Spotted Wren Babbler Spelaeornis formosus: A remarkable show by a late afternoon songster on Mt Victoria that came in from a deep ravine, posed briefly on a stump, hopped down the roadside, looked both ways and then crossed over! Chin Hills Wren Babbler (Long-tailed W B) Spelaeornis oatesi: Rasmussen & Anderton rightly treat this as a species distinct from the other Long-tailed Wren Babbler taxa reptatus and chocolatinus. Its range is restricted to W Myanmar and adjacent Mizoram. That having been said, we can claim excellent views of a pair that came in to point-blank range on Mt Victoria, plus a third individual seen briefly. Rufous-fronted Babbler Stachyris rufifrons: A single bird seen briefly at Yayayekan. Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea: Several glimpsed with fast moving bird-flocks on Mt Victoria, then better views of some at Yayayekan. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps (H): Heard singing along the stream at Yayayekan. Striped Tit Babbler Macronous gularis: A single seen in the roadside forest between Saw and Kazunma. Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata: A vocal but very sneaky pair were glimpsed by the river at Shwe Sattaw. Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense: A good look at a pair at Shwe Sattaw, a single at Bagan and also seen at lower elevations on Mt Victoria. White-throated Babbler Turdoides gularis: What a great bird! Our first were at the forest edge at Shwe Sattaw, with more seen en-route to Kazunma, and at Bagan they were a Hotel garden bird! Endemic to Burma. Mount Victoria Babax (Chinese B) Babax [lanceolatus] woodi: We were treated to a real show by three very responsive birds on our first afternoon on Mt Victoria. Rasmussen & Anderton split this from Chinese Babax, yet Collar remains unconvinced of such a split. Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris: Some good numbers in fast-moving bird-flocks on Mt Victoria, then many at Yayayekan that showed rather better. Cutia Cutia nipalensis: An exciting flock of ten or more on Mt Victoria, creeping around the trunks of the evergreen trees. Black-headed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer (NL): Richard saw one with the Cutia flock. White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: A male joined the Cutia flock, then two were seen at Yayayekan. Green Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus: Seen several times in mixed bird-flocks at higher elevations on Mt Victoria. Black-eared Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius melanotis: A couple of handsome males popped out in mixed bird-flocks in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: A few were seen in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Spectacled Barwing Actinodura ramsayi: A fine show by three birds calling in the cold morning sunshine at Yayayekan. Streak-throated Barwing Actinodura waldeni: Another rare babbler restricted in range, we struggled to find these but eventually were rewarded with nice views of up to four on Mt Victoria. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Occasionally encountered on Mt Victoria, plus a single at Yayayekan. Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula: Seen often in the higher evergreen forests on Mt Victoria. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: A total of eight individuals seen with mixed flocks on Mt Victoria. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Two parties seen on Mt Victoria, in busy bird-flocks in the evergreen forest. White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus: Quite a few seen, only at the higher altitudes on Mt Victoria. Rusty-capped Fulvetta Alcippe dubia: A difficult bird to observe, we found a small group feeding on the forest floor on Mt Victoria. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala: Vocal and visible in roadside forest between Saw and Kazunma. Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis: Regularly encountered in bird-flocks on Mt Victoria. Grey Sibia Heterophasia gracilis: Very numerous and visible throughout the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Dark-backed Sibia Heterophasia melanoleuca: A good number of these in the forest at Yayayekan, the race here is castanoptera that shows bright rufous tertials. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Small parties were encountered in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: Odd birds regularly seen at the higher altitudes on Mt Victoria. White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca: Quite a few seen at Yayayekan. DNA studies have recently discovered that this is not a Yuhina, or even a Babbler! Grey-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis gularis (H): Heard distantly at Yayayekan. Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis: Amazingly this pipped White-rumped Falcon as 'Bird-of-the-trip'! We had some great views of a busy flock of up to 30 birds mashing through the bamboo on Mt Victoria, found on two days running. Such a delightful little fellow and always a favourite of mine, there is some splitting (surprise, surprise!) in the offing within the P. nipalensis complex. These birds refer to the ripponi race, and interestingly they showed pale eyes. ALAUDIDAE Burmese Bushlark Mirafra microptera: First encountered in some number along the roadsides between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma, and then commonly around the old pagodas of Bagan. Split out of the Rufous-winged Bushlark complex, this species is endemic to Burma. Sand Lark Calandrella raytal: Many seen scurrying along on the sandbanks of the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: One seen ascending in song-flight at Moyengyi, with others heard there. NECTARINIIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: At least four seen in fruiting trees at Hlawga Park. Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum: One seen well in the dry forest at Shwe Sattaw. Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum: Often hard to find anywhere, we found a profusion of them on Mt Victoria, with 12 seen one day and 17 on another! More than all I've ever seen in my life! Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum concolor: Three in the dry forest at Shwe Sattaw, plus another at lower elevations on Mt Victoria. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus: A few in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: Common in the lowland forests, around Shwe Sattaw and in Hlawga Park. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Anthreptes singalensis: Two were seen around fruiting trees in Hlawga Park. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: Three were seen at Hlawga Park, the only ones of the tour. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: A small number were seen in the dry forest around Shwe Sattaw. Mrs Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae: Quite a few seen on Mt Victoria in various states of plumage. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: Just seen on two days, at higher altitudes on Mt Victoria. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: Two seen in the forest at Yayayekan. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda: A handful seen at higher altitudes on Mt Victoria, although none were males in breeding dress. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: One seen badly, at Yayayekan. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Seen in good number around towns. Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans: A flock of 30 at 2700m on Mt Victoria was a little unexpected. Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus: Some good looks at these colourful Sparrows at Bagan, also seen between Shwe Sattaw and Kazunma. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Seen at Bagan, Yangon and Kalaw. Himalayan Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alboides: Three of this form were seen on the sandbanks of the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: The default 'White' Wagtail seen frequently throughout the tour. Baikal Wagtail Motacilla [alba] baicalensis: One or more of these seen on the sandbanks of the Irrawaddy at Bagan. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: Two seen at Inle Lake. Eastern Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] macronyx: Many seen at Moyengyi and Inle Lake, with others seen at Yangon and Bagan. Certainly many of the birds were of this form but thunbergi may also have been present. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: One on Mt Victoria and several more in the Kalaw area. Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi: Two were seen around the drier margins at Moyengyi. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Singles were seen at Bagan and Kalaw. Blyth's Pipit Anthus godlewskii: A brief but good look at a bird seen at Bagan during our Quail hunt. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis: Three seen in the fields with the above at Bagan. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Seen frequently, particularly on the west bank and on Mt Victoria. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Five were seen on the sandbanks of the Irrawaddy at Bagan, also heard at Moyengyi, Kalaw and Inle Lake. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus: Some 50 or so feeding in crops at Bagan. Asian Golden Weaver Ploceus hypoxanthus: Some 15 birds at Moyengyi, mostly in non-breeding plumage and therefore requiring close scrutiny before we were satisfied. Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The main threat to this bird is the conversion of its preferred wetland habitats to agriculture. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: A dozen or so along the river at Bagan. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Some small groups at Yayayekan, huddled up against the cold. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Several small flocks encountered, at Bagan, Kalaw and Inle Lake. FRINGILLIDAE Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides: A colourful flock of these found high up on Mt Victoria. This population (race heinrichi) is disjunct from the Himalayan range of the species, and shows strong plumage differences with a black forehead, has more black on the cheeks, is blacker above and also smaller. Black-headed Greenfinch Carduelis ambigua: Some nice views of five around Kalaw. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: Not uncommon on Mt Victoria, also found at Kalaw and Inle Lake. Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla: Fairly plentiful on Mt Victoria. Chestnut Bunting Emberiza rutila: A single seen by Richard on Mt Victoria, then a small flock were seen at Yayayekan. MAMMALS Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: Not uncommon in the evergreen forest on Mt Victoria. Finlayson's Squirrel (Variable S) Callosciurus finlaysoni: A couple of very striking chestnut pelaged beasts at Yayayekan. Irrawaddy Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus: The 'default' squirrel in the lowlands and Irrawaddy valley. Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii: Frequently seen on Mt Victoria, often with bird-flocks! Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula: A single beast that came onto the road at Mt Victoria, saw us and beat a hasty retreat! Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta: Plenty at Hlawga Park, though perhaps not very wild! Northern Tree Shrew Tupaia belangeri: Seen at Shwe Sattaw and at Yayayekan, including a freshly dead one killed by slingshot!

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 Myanmar Dec 2006