Sulawesi & Halmahera (2) Sept-Oct 2006 (Birdquest)

SULAWESI & HALMAHERA (2) 26 SEPTEMBER – 15 OCTOBER 2006 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: JOHN CHAINEY, ROGER CLARK, PETER LOS, JONATHAN NEWMAN, RICHARD NEWTON, OLOF PERSSON, JENNY SPENCE, ALLAN SUMNER and GRAHAM TEBB This was the second Birdquest tour to Sulawesi and Halmahera this year, and yet again was a very successful trip around the islands. We recorded 280 species, more than on any of our previous tours, but of course it is the quality and rarity of the birds that draws the crowds. On Sulawesi this included great looks at some stunning endemics and regional specialities, such as the ever-scarcer Maleo, three different Satanic Nightjars in the daytime, Green-backed, Lilac-cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf, Ruddy and Great-billed Kingfishers, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Malia, Great Shortwing, many good raptors including Spot-tailed and Sulawesi Goshawks, Vinous-breasted and Small Sparrowhawks, and an array of exotic Starlings. Our visit to Tangkoko provided an exciting finale to the tour once again, with prolonged views of five Red-backed Thrushes, an obliging Blue-breasted Pitta and a shock find of an errant Elegant Pitta. Our sea crossings produced Aleutian Tern and Bulwer's Petrel, and on Halmahera (in fast-disappearing forest) we found plenty of colourful Parrots and Pigeons, and enjoyed the thrilling dawn lek of Wallace's Standardwing. We found Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar, Moluccan Scops Owl and Moluccan Boobook, Blue-and-White, Beach and Sombre Kingfishers, and Ivory- breasted Pitta performed once again. We began our birding in the south of Sulawesi in the limestone hills of the Karaenta Forest. A productive few hours were enjoyed, kicked off with the endemic Black-ringed White-eyes, followed by Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, a superb Spot-tailed Goshawk, Silver-tipped and White-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Gould's Bronze and Drongo Cuckoos, Blue-backed Parrot, Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot, noisy Piping Crows, Sulawesi Crested and White-necked Mynas, Sulawesi Babbler, Pale Blue Monarch and Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers. At the foot of the hill we found Barred Buttonquail and White-shouldered Triller, before returning to the airport at Ujung Pandang and flying to Palu in central Sulawesi. On arriving we made a three-hour journey up into Lore Lindu National Park, ready for the piles of good food awaiting us at our lodgings. Staying close to the montane forests, we opted for some early starts as the mosque next-door prevented sleep during the month of Ramadan! In the calm greenery of these hills we were pitched into a lively avifauna, most of it endemic. We saw Yellow-and-Green Lorikeets and Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Sulawesi Pygmy and Ashy Woodpeckers, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, Sulawesi Drongo, Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrikes, Rusty-bellied Fantail, Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeaters, Yellow-vented Whistler, Malia, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, Island Verditer, Blue-fronted, Citrine and Snowy-browed Flycatchers, Sulawesi Myzomela, Black-fronted White-eye and Streaky-headed Dark-eye. Ascending to higher levels we followed the Anaso track, finding Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Yellow-flanked Whistler, Fiery- browed Starlings, Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters and Mountain Serin, and some very nice Red-eared Fruit Doves. A roosting Satanic Nightjar was located perched inside a small bush, where it remained for most of our stay here! Returning to lower levels near our lodgings we found Purple-winged Rollers, and Ivory-backed Wood-Swallow, and in paddyfields we saw Dusky Moorhen and Cinnamon Bittern. Further explorations up and down the mountain over the following days were productive, and we found Grey-headed and White-bellied Imperial Pigeons, Superb Fruit Dove, numerous Brown Cuckoo Doves, Barred Honey Buzzard, Sulawesi Hawk Eagles, hordes of Knobbed Hornbills crowded into a fruiting tree, Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots, Moluccan Swiftlets and Purple Needletails. We found another two Satanic Nightjars at their roost, and by night we found Sulawesi Scops Owl and Speckled Boobook. Further searches revealed Swinhoe's Snipe, Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrikes, Sulawesi Drongo, Maroon-backed Whistler, Mountain Serin, Blue-faced Parrotfinch, Lemon-bellied White- eyes, Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker and Crimson Sunbirds. Of the real skulkers here, Chestnut- backed Bush-Warblers showed well, an obliging Great Shortwing hopped around us in a circle, but the Geomalia only showed us his shadow… A final mornings birding here caught up with our first Yellow-billed Malkoha, a total of four Small Sparrowhawks, a family of Sulawesi Blue Flycatchers and a splendid Sulawesi Serpent Eagle. We retraced our steps towards Palu, where in roadside paddyfields we enjoyed a Munia flock of four species; Scaly-breasted, Chestnut, Black-faced and our target of Pale-headed Munias. After waiting around at the mercy of the domestic flight 'schedules,' we flew to Ujung Pandang for an overnight stop followed by a couple of very productive hours at the local fishponds. In the half-light of dawn, Savanna Nightjars posed well for us while squawking loudly, and on the ponds themselves we found a wide selection of shorebirds. Top-heavy Far Eastern Curlews joined Rufous-necked and Long-toed Stints, Terek Sandpiper, White-headed Stilts, Pacific Black Duck and Sacred Kingfisher. A last look at some drier pans revealed a single Australian Pratincole, and three strange Plovers that on closer inspection showed to be Javan Plovers! As we watched, one hopped onto the back of another, to ensure the continuation of the species! A new colonist of Sulawesi? From here we flew direct to Ternate, main transport hub for Halmahera, and were whisked down to the jetty for our rapid speedboat ride to Sidangoli on Halmahera itself, a quick passage that disturbed many Red-necked Phalaropes from the surface. We arrived in time for lunch and then were out along a logging track nearby for our first birding. We had to wait until the last hour of light before things cooled down, but enjoyed our first Grey-headed Fruit Doves, White Cockatoo, Blyth's Hornbill, Spangled Drongo, Long-billed Crow, Rufous-bellied Triller, Slaty Flycatcher, Spectacled Monarch, Metallic Starlings and Cream-throated White-eye. Recent news that the Wallace's Standardwing lek at Labi Labi had been clear-felled meant that an alternative had to be found. Fortunately another lek exists closer to Sidangoli, and so a two-hour pre- dawn walk was in order. We made good time on dry trails, our torches catching White-naped, Shining and Spectacled Monarchs, all roosting over the trail. We settled in below the lek trees just minutes before the cacophany began, and as the light came up we could gradually make out the colours of a spectacular male jumping and shivering around. Despite the amount of noise only one bird was present, but he bounced about in the trees in front of us, a thrilling experience for all that put this as our joint No.1 'Bird-of–the-Trip'. Our return walk produced our first glimpses of Ivory- breasted Pitta and Dusky Scrubfowl, a distant Pacific Baza, Common Golden Whistler, Golden Bulbuls and migrant Grey-streaked Flycatchers. We paused for a rest and repack before the next sortie, a drive to Tobelo that produced our first Goliath Coucals, Red-cheeked Parrots, Blue-and-White Kingfishers and Willy Wagtails en-route. After checking into our hotel and having dinner, we made the pilgrimage to the Moluccan Scrubfowl nesting beach at Galela. After crossing the shallow creek in dugouts, we waited in the darkness for an arrival. A single bird appeared, silhouetted by the moon, but very shy of people. She was the only visitor tonight, though another clattered off in the darkness as we returned to our boats. I think those villagers have been eating too many omelettes! Some moonlit comedy moments followed, as the tide had gone out and the water was too shallow for the dugouts, but after much fussing we made it back to dry land and our beds in the early hours. The following morning we boarded a fishing boat for our crossing to Labi Labi. We chugged across the bay on a rather choppy sea, finding a Bulwer's Petrel, Lesser Frigatebirds, Brown Boobys and Bridled Terns. On arriving we trekked from the little village up to our camp, now just a stone's throw from a new logging road. However, this disturbing new development has the paradoxical effect of enhancing our birding with it's ease of access. We found the place to be alive with Parrots and Pigeons, and on our first afternoon we found Spectacled Imperial Pigeons, Violet-necked Lory, White-bellied and Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrikes and Moluccan Starlings. After dark we found a Moloccan Boobook and a rusty-coloured Moloccan Owlet Nightjar. A full day of birding here was productive as we explored the various logging roads snaking into the forest of the interior, and we found Blue-capped Fruit Doves, Red-flanked Lorikeets, Eclectus, Great-billed and Red-cheeked Parrots, Moluccan Hanging Parrot, but Chattering Lory never showed themselves properly. There were Cinnamon-bellied and Pied Imperial Pigeons, Moloccan Cuckoo-Shrikes, Moustached Treeswifts, Common Cicadabirds, Dusky-brown Oriole, White-streaked Friarbird, Paradise Crow, Drab Whistler, Flame-breasted Flowerpecker and White-naped Monarch. Dusky Scrubfowl were tempted in for a brief view, and the Ivory-breasted Pitta held out for a while before showing himself as he called from a song perch within the forest gloom. A vocal Barking Owl was searched for unsuccessfully, and just as we were about to hide away in our huts, a Moluccan Scops Owl called within the camp and was located sitting quietly in a low tree where it gave prolonged and close views. In addition to the logging (which appears to be selective) what remains of the forest is being 'settled' by slash-and-burn farmers at an alarming rate. It was hot and dry during our stay, which meant more logging vehicle activity, horrendous chain-saw noise, and trees on fire where the squatters were moving in. While the forest continues to produce plenty of good birds, the days of accessing good birding areas are clearly numbered. It was time to leave again, so we trekked down to the logging camp on the beach where the police apparently wanted to see us. A long delay followed, as the foul constable harangued our local guide for various imaginary infractions. We stepped aside and waited for the pay-off to occur, then boarded our boat and made a rapid exit. The sea was rough, we hung on for the three hour journey grateful we were not on any smaller craft, but as we approached Tobelo an Aleutian Tern appeared and gave us a great view as it flew right up to the boat. On reaching land we sped off back to Sidangoli and a welcome 'shower'. Our last hours on the island produced an outstanding Sombre Kingfisher, more Slaty Flycatcher and Shining Monarchs, Variable Goshawk, five Goliath Coucals together in a tree, plus a vocal but unresponsive Common Paradise Kingfisher. It was time to head back to Ternate, finding a Beach Kingfisher in the mangroves en-route. We flew to Manado, and then settled in for a long drive to Dumoga Bone National Park, a journey enlivened by our first Barred Rails at the roadside. The main event here is the ever-scarcer Maleo, on the battered edge of some hill forest where they come to lay their eggs in the volcanically heated soil. Arriving at the site pre-dawn, we crept into bushes just in time to see a Maleo fly across the clearing and land in full view in a large tree, where for many minutes it paced back and forth like a raspberry fool. Content indeed with such a show, we went on to see many other species including Blue-breasted Quail, Sulawesi Black Pigeon, Black-naped Fruit Dove, Green Imperial Pigeon, Black-billed Koel, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Great Eared Nightjars, Purple-winged Roller, Sulawesi Triller and White-necked Myna. A handsome Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove showed well, as did an immature Sulawesi Goshawk. Visiting the remnant forest patch at Toraut, in two visits we found the major prizes of Green-backed and Great-billed Kingfishers, plus Yellow-breasted Racquet-tails, Lesser Fish Eagle, Spotted Harrier, stunning Ornate Lorikeets, Blue- backed Parrots, Knobbed Hornbill, Bay Coucal, Pied Cuckoo-Shrikes, Grosbeak Starlings, Ashy Woodpecker, Sulawesi Cicadabird and a vagrant Large Hawk Cuckoo. Remaining in the forest until darkness fell, our attention was drawn to screeching calls, and a Sulawesi Masked Owl was found perched high in a large tree. We saw Sunda Teal on the river, and visits to some extensive pools were very productive with Comb-crested Jacanas, Buff-banded and Barred Rails, White-browed Crake, Black and Yellow Bitterns, Wandering Whistling Ducks and some migrant Eastern Great Reed Warblers. We retraced our steps to Manado and then to Tangkoko Duasudara Reserve, a forested slope running down to the sea. Here we hoped to find some of the lowland forest specialities that are becoming harder to find now at Dumoga Bone, and we were not disappointed. White-rumped Cuckoo-shrikes in the garden of our lodgings were a good start, quickly followed by views of a responsive Sulawesi Nightjar just down the road. At dawn the next morning we set off on a Kingfisher hunt with our talented local guides, finding Lilac-cheeked, Green-backed, and a bijou little Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher, all of whom posed at length for photographs. We also found Philippine Scrubfowl, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, Horsfield's Cuckoos, and a stunning Blue-breasted Pitta that circled us on the open forest floor. Things went quiet as the sun boiled overhead, so we took to the water and saw a roosting Sulawesi Masked Owl, Great-billed Herons, Pacific Reef Egrets, and Great and Lesser Frigatebirds. A second morning in these forests provided a fitting finale to our action-packed tour, with a group of five Red-backed Thrushes being located. These handsome devils posed unconcernedly for extended periods, showing off their striking patterns of black, white and russet. Our next thrill was a strange Pitta found hopping about in the beach forest, which upon close inspection turned out to be an Elegant Pitta! Probably the first record for the island of Sulawesi! We finished things off with a splendid pair of Ruddy Kingfishers, and the fantastic Spectral Tarsier roosting in a bamboo clump. An Isabelline Bush-Hen stepped out onto the roadside as we departed, and a migrant Japanese Sparrowhawk zipped by. Relaxing in the confines of our Manado Hotel didn't stop the magic, and we found Pink-necked Green Pigeon, Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers and Grey-tailed Tattler. After a such thrilling finale we set a course for home sated with so many good birds, most of them endemic, colourful, and exciting. With the rate of habitat destruction in this part of the world, we should feel blessed to have seen as many birds as we did. This has to be the world's most threatened region and the urgency to visit is now even more critical – go now before it's all gone! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). PROCELLARIIDAE Bulwer's Petrel Bulweria bulwerii: A rather distant view of one as we crossed from Tobelo to Labi Labi. FREGATIDAE Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: Seen at Tangkoko, an easy-to-identify adult male plus a couple of more tricky immature birds. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: Numerous encounters with birds in a variety of plumages, on our ferry crossings around Halmahera, then plenty cruising the seas off Tangkoko. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster (NL): A single was seen on Lake Tambing at Lore Lindu. Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". SULIDAE Brown Booby Sula leucogaster: Some very nice views as we crossed to Labi Labi, then many more were seen off the Hotel Santika. ARDEIDAE Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: Part of the 'Tangkoko-bonus', we had excellent views of two along the rocky coastline. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Regularly seen on minor wetlands, with many at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. Great Egret Egretta alba: A couple seen on two days around Doloduo. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: A flock of 20 passed overhead at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: A small number at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra: Good looks at three dark morph birds around the fishing rafts at Tangkoko, also seen along the coast near Manado Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Fairly common in open country on Sulawesi, although not seen on Halmahera. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa: Frequent in the Sulawesi rice paddies and in various other wet places. Many birds were in splendid breeding plumage. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Very common at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds' also seen at Karaenta and Tangkoko. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: A single bird seen on two days near Doloduo. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Seen on a couple of occasions in the Wuasa paddies. Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis: At least two birds seen near Doloduo, one of which perched out nicely in the reeds. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Two were seen during our stay on Halmahera. Pacific Baza Aviceda subcristata: A distant view of single bird near Sidangoli was our only sighting. Barred Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis: Several were seen at Lore Lindu, but not always a straightforward identification! A single also seen in Dumoga Bone. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: We often encountered this widespread and attractive bird. It is still pretty common in this part of the world. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: A handful of sightings on Halmahera, then again at Tangkoko. Lesser Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga humilis: An adult was seen at Toraut, plus it's nest in a large dead tree. Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus: We sweated over this bird, only finding a single bird on our last morning at Lore Lindu, nicely perched over the road near Wuasa. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis: Just one seen, flying over the treetops at Toraut. A predominantly Australian species. Sulawesi Goshawk Accipiter griseiceps: An interesting immature bird showed very well for us at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Spot-tailed Goshawk Accipiter trinotatus: One showed very well for us on our first morning at Karaenta. Also seen a couple of times at Lore Lindu where they were very vocal. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Variable Goshawk (Grey G) Accipiter novaehollandiae: The only Accipiter we saw on Halmahera, we saw some five birds around the island. Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis: One seen zipping by along the road at Tangkoko, followed by a 'leader-only' bird seen drinking from the stream. Then one made an appearance in the airport car-park at Manado just as we were leaving. Small Sparrowhawk Accipiter nanus: We had a brief view of two at Lore Lindu to start off, then on our final morning there we saw at least four, one of which was perched up in the morning sunshine. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Vinous-breasted Sparrowhawk Accipiter rhodogaster: Two birds were seen at Karaenta Forest, one of which perched up for a lengthy view in a dead tree. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Sula islands. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Several sightings at Lore Lindu that included an initially perplexing immature, plus another two were seen near Sidangoli, one of which threw itself about in an elaborate sky-dance. Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus lanceolatus: Two were seen at Lore Lindu, one of which perched up nicely for us on our final morning there, then we saw this again at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. FALCONIDAE Spotted Kestrel (Moluccan K) Falco moluccensis: Scattered sightings throughout the tour. Oriental Hobby Falco severus (NL): One seen at Lake Tambing by Jonathan. ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna arcuata: Plenty seen around the Doloduo pools, with 25 or more seen there. Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: None in the usual places, we had to look further a field and found 10 on the river near Toraut. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa: A flock of six were seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds, plus odd birds at Lake Tambing and Wuasa. MEGAPODIIDAE Philippine Scrubfowl Megapodius cumingii: A lengthy, close, and very satisfying view of one in the forest at Tangkoko. Another two were seen there also. Dusky Scrubfowl Megapodius freycinet: Often heard on Halmahera, we managed to tape-in a couple at Labi Labi, plus Olof saw another by the road at Lami. Moluccan Scrubfowl Eulipoa wallacei: Our moonlit vigil at Galela succeeded in seeing one bird on the beach all too briefly, plus another flew off as we walked back down the beach. Maleo Macrocephalon maleo: A successful first visit to the well-known breeding site at Tambun, at first light a bird flew across the clearing and perched up in a large tree, giving us great views for an extended period. This was one of pinkest birds I have seen here, and was obviously in full flush and ready to lay an egg! We were also able to see (and handle!) a huge egg that had been recovered by the hatchery. However, the situation here is not good, with clearly fewer birds coming here and local people still coming in to take the eggs. The hatchery project receives no funding from government and is solely financed by WCS. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population is estimated at just 8,000-14,000 and declining due to exploitation and human disturbance. In some areas, the populations have declined by up to 90% since 1950! PHASIANIDAE Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: A pair scuttled across the track at Tambun, initially causing a mis-identification as a baby Maleo! (too small!) Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus (H): Heard at Tangkoko. TURNICIDAE Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: Three were seen at Bantimurung, scuttling and then flying out of a grassy clump. Another was seen near Palu. RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis: Three were seen badly in the paddies at Wuasa where the rice had grown too tall, but better views were acquired of a handful of birds at the Doloduo pools. Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus: Some great views of this personal favourite of mine, with our first at the roadside between Manado and Doloduo, then more appearing around Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko to make 14 seen on the tour! The subspecies concerned is celebensis and this form lacks the chestnut breast band shown by birds in the Philippines. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca (H): Heard doing it's Dabchick-like trill near Wuasa. White-browed Crake Poliolimnas cinerea: Some very good views of four at the Doloduo pools. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus (H): Heard at Labi Labi, but distantly and in near- darkness. Annoyingly difficult to see! Isabelline Waterhen Amaurornis isabellinus: We had to sweat over this one, as lack of rain reduced chances of them coming onto the roads as they often do. They did however, and between us we saw two on the roadside near Tangkoko and another was glimpsed in the scrub there. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Two were seen at the Doloduo pools. Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa: A single bird came flying out of the Wuasa paddies. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Five were seen at the Doloduo pools. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: Two each on two days at the Doloduo pools. JACANIDAE Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea: Up to three birds seen at the Doloduo pools. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: Just three were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, this species is often lumped in the familiar Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus, though it does show a distinctive head pattern and calls quite differently. Also seen en-route from Doloduo. CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: Two seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds, a 'write-in' for this tour. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Four at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Three at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Javan Plover Charadrius javanicus: Three birds on dry pans at Ujung Pandang took some scrutiny, as this bird is not well-described in the field guide. They had the appearance of being a cross between winter-plumaged Kentish and Lesser Sand Plovers, with chestnut tones on the ear-coverts and breast sides. They seemed to be preparing small nest scrapes, which was confirmed along with 'which was the male, which was the female' when copulation commenced! Discovered here by Birdquest last year, this represents an extension of their known range, and they appear to be breeding! There are some good pictures at www.orientalbirdimages.org that show the long lanky pale legs, chunky build, long bill and rusty-hued cheek and breast patches, and dusky rear collar. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus Only seen at the Hotel Santika, where they numbered more than 20. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Two seen on the jetty at the Hotel Santika. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: Nine were seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, then plenty more at the Hotel Santika. Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis: At least eight of these top-heavy birds seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica: A single bird flew over at Ujung Pandang fishponds Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Twenty or more seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Spotted Redshank Tringa ochropus: Some five or so seen on a productive morning at the Ujung Pandang fishponds, another 'write-in' for this tour. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Some ten seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Three seen at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Numerous around paddies at Wuasa, also at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: Six birds were seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Regularly encountered along our route. Grey-tailed Tattler (G-rumped T) Heteroscelus brevipes: Two flew over at Ujung Pandang fishponds then a half-dozen more at our hotel near Manado. Swinhoe's Snipe Gallinago megala: Three of these bulky Snipe were flushed from a rank pasture near Wuasa. Rufous-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis: A flock of 40 or so seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: Just a single seen at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Two birds at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: Good numbers of these on our boat rides around Halmahera. Australian Pratincole Stiltia isabella: After missing this on the previous visit, it was good to see one of these at least on a dry pan at Ujung Pandang fishponds. LARIDAE White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus: A small number of birds seen at sea around Halmahera, then more at Tangkoko and a handful at the Hotel Santika. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia (NL): Three seen off the Hotel Santika. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: Many seen from shore en-route to Tobelo, plus others seen on our crossings around Halmahera, and also at Tangkoko and the Hotel Santika. Aleutian Tern Sterna aleutica: A great view of a bird that flew right up to our boat as we crossed from Labi Labi, a reward for enduring the rough sea! The dark trailing edge on the length of the underwing is a very distinctive feature. One more was seen on that crossing, and another was seen at the Hotel Santika. Black-naped Tern Sterna sumatrana: A dozen or more were seen off the Hotel Santika on our final morning. Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus: Two were seen from shore en-route to Tobelo, then better looks at two as we crossed to Labi Labi. Also seen on the return trip and some were also off the Hotel Santika. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Twenty or more at the fishponds near Ujung Pandang, also seen on the crossing to Ternate. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: One was seen from shore at Sidangoli, then three more as we crossed to Labi Labi. Also seen at Tangkoko. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Recorded several times. I think… Red Collared Dove (R Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Several seen around the paddies near Palu. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Small numbers seen in open habitats on both islands. Brown Cuckoo-Dove (Slender-billed C-D) Macropygia amboinensis: Often heard, and seen well on many occasions on both islands. Two forms are involved, albicapilla, the paler-headed form on Sulawesi and albiceps on Halmahera. Sulawesi Black Pigeon (White-faced Cuckoo-Dove) Turacoena manadensis: Just seen once, with two birds at Tambun. A Sulawesi endemic, with its scientific name referring to the town of Manado. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A couple on Halmahera, and a few more around Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans: A couple of sightings in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Treron griseicauda: Our first were eight at Karaenta, then more were seen at Wuasa and at Tangkoko. Red-eared Fruit Dove Ptilinopus fischeri: Great views of two of these beauties on the Anaso track, followed by a curious presumably immature bird there that lacked red ears. Endemic to Sulawesi. Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus subgularis: A great look at one of these attractive birds after it crossed the road to meet us at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus: A couple were seen well by the lake at Lore Lindu. A striking bird indeed, the subspecies here is temminckii. Blue-capped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus monacha: First seen near Sidangoli, consolidated at Labi Labi with a range of great views of this tiny fellow. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Grey-headed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus hyogastra: Not uncommon on Halmahera where we found them in good numbers at Sidangoli and Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospila: Our first was at Tambun, then we had better views of four at Toraut. Also found at Tangkoko where they were very vocal. White-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula forsteni: Our first was at Karaenta, then more singles were seen at Lore Lindu until we found ten attending a busy fruiting tree near Wuasa. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula radiata: We saw just one along the Anaso track, that is until our final early visit to the top section where we stumbled upon a gathering of 20 or more, all sitting out and giving great views. Endemic to Sulawesi. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: Our first ones were six at Karaenta, then not seen again until we reached Dumoga Bone 'National Park' where they were common at Tambun and Toraut. More were at Tangkoko, though heard more than seen. The interesting subspecies paulina found on Sulawesi sports an attractive rufous nape which forms a shaggy crest, surely a very tempting split! Spectacled Imperial Pigeon (White-eyed I P) Ducula perspicillata: Seen on all three days at Labi Labi, with some nice views acquired. Also seen at Lami on our last morning on Halmahera. Endemic to the Moluccas and an island off West Papua. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula basilica: We could often hear his deep growling calls on Halmahera, and saw several at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: Several were seen in the forest at Labi Labi, then not again until we reached the Santika Hotel. Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon Ducula luctuosa: Eight were seen at Karaenta on our first morning, followed by a single at Tangkoko. Often a tricky bird to find. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PSITTACIDAE Violet-necked Lory (Moluccan Red L) Eos squamata: Seen very well along the logging track at Labi Labi throughout our stay, with as many as 15 per day. Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus: Two seen zipping rapidly past at Lore Lindu, then plenty were seen in the treetops at Toraut, with some scope views at Tangkoko to complete our Ornate experience! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis: Seen frequently while airborne at Lore Lindu, we finally acquired some nice perched views by Lake Tambing. Endemic to Sulawesi and Sula. Chattering Lory Lorius garrulus: Several glimpses and rubbish flight views were all that were to be had of this increasingly hard-to-find fellow. A sadly declining species, endemic to the North Moluccas and classified as 'Endangered' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Threatened by habitat destruction and human exploitation, this North Moluccan Endemic had an estimated population of 31,000-220,000 in 1991 and it is estimated that trappers may catch as many as 10% of the population in a year, a clearly unsustainable rate of harvest! Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: Numerous and noisy along the logging track at Labi Labi. White Cockatoo Cacatua alba: A very visible and noisy feature of the forests on Halmahera, where they are still fairly common. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population was estimated at between 43,000-183,000 in 1991, though as the trees keep tumbling down the potential nesting sites must become scarcer and this combined with trapping does not bode well for the future. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Several examples were seen on Halmahera, usually calling raucously as they flew above the forest. The brightly-coloured females were typically scarce, this species shows some of the most extreme sexual dimorphism in the bird world. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: Our first of these attractive parrots were seen en-route to Tobelo, then very commonly along the logging track at Labi Labi. Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans: A couple were glimpsed at Tambun, then good views of perched birds were secured at Toraut. This species has some bizarre 'toy-trumpet' calls, the best way to tell it from the following species. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Golden-mantled Racquet-tail Prioniturus platurus: We found these to be common high up at Lore Lindu, although we never actually saw them perched. Indeed, do they even have legs? Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blue-backed Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus: We found our first at the Karaenta Forest, then again later in the tour at Toraut and Tangkoko. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: We saw our first along the logging track near Sidangoli, then better views were had at Labi Labi, plus a single at Lami. Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot Loriculus stigmatus: We had our first encounters with these birds in the forests near Wuasa, then saw more at Dumoga Bone and at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot Loriculus amabilis: Four or more at Labi Labi were the only ones encountered. Endemic to the North Moluccas, Sula and Banggai islands. Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot Loriculus exilis: Three seen well on our first morning at Karaenta forest were the only ones of the tour. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" CUCULIDAE Large Hawk Cuckoo Cuculus sparveroides: A bird seen in the treetops at Toraut appeared to be this species, showing typically large size and an obvious rusty-brown breast, with a barred lower belly and earth-brown upperparts. Some of us saw white spots on the outer-tail, a feature which seems anomalous for this species but limited data is available on the plumages of the only other contender, Sulawesi Hawk Cuckoo. According to Coates and Bishop this appears to be just the third record for Sulawesi. Horsfield's Cuckoo Cuculus horsfieldi: Two were seen at Tambun, then better views were acquired at Tangkoko with a couple of birds seen on both mornings.. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Indonesian C) Cacomantis sepulcralis: A constant feature of the background soundscape at Lore Lindu where we saw several, also seen at Tambun. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus (H): Only heard, along the logging track at Labi Labi.. Gould's Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx russatus: Four of these delightful little birds were seen on our first morning at Karaenta, and then a couple more at Lore Lindu. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Three birds were seen with a mixed flock at Karaenta forest on our first morning. Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhyncha: Two were seen well at Tambun then a handful more at Toraut, also heard at Tangkoko and at the Hotel Santika. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, yet some authorities (see Handbook of Birds of the World) lump this form together with Australian and Common Koels. Yellow-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus: A real favourite, we got progressively better views during the tour, with a single at Lore Lindu to start us off, then several more were seen around Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath: A good showing by this fellow on our tour, with two spotted by Graham on our first visit to Lami, several birds seen at Labi Labi and then five together in a tree at Lami on our last morning there. Perhaps even more impressive than the fine views we had were the symphony of fantastic organ-like calls! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Frequent sightings, around Lore Lindu and then again in northern Sulawesi. Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis: Rather sneaky, we managed to get looks at two birds in the forest at Toraut. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. STRIGIDAE Sulawesi Masked Owl Tyto rosenbergii: We found a vocal example in the forest at Toraut while searching for Boobooks, and then saw the regular roosting bird from a boat at Tangkoko. Quite unlike the illustration in the book, both examples showed a mid-to-pale grey face, a strong black facial disc, deep buff breast contrasting abruptly with a white lower belly, plus dark earthy upperparts. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion Sulawesi Scops Owl Otus manadensis: Seen fairly well at Lore Lindu, and then another was found at Toraut, with numerous calling birds heard there and also at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus: Three or more were heard around Labi Labi but refused to play, until at the eleventh hour one was found just yards from our sleeping quarters, sitting in plain view low in a small tree, unwilling to move out of view it seemed! Barking Owl Ninox connivens (H): At least two birds were audible from our camp at Labi Labi, and Richard climbed back up to the logging track and managed to see them. However a group effort to see them the following evening was unsuccessful. Ochre-bellied Boobook Ninox ochracea (H): Our dusk foray into the forest at Dumoga Bone drew a blank as calling birds refused to come within the dense canopy of the mid-storey trees. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Moloccan Boobook Ninox squamipila: A vocal bird was seen on two evenings at Labi Labi but failed to perch where we wanted it to! Speckled Boobook (S Hawk Owl) Ninox punctulata: A great view of a vocal bird at Lore Lindu that perched in a roadside tree just as the first light of dawn was coming up. Typically an unobtrusive owl, its small size doesn't help! Endemic to Sulawesi. AEGOTHELIDAE Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar (Long-whiskered O-N) Aegotheles crinifrons: We found a rusty-morph bird at the forest edge at Labi Labi, and heard several others there. Also as we walked to the Standardwing lek, where one was glimpsed as it was flushed away by the local guide! Endemic to the North Moluccas. CAPRIMULGIDAE Heinrich's Nightjar (Satanic N) Eurostopodus diabolicus: A roosting bird was located sitting in a low bush beside the Anaso track on our first morning in Lore Lindu, where it remained for four days at least! Another pair were found roosting by the track lower down, snuggled together head to head, and they also remained in the same spot for three days! Common where found?! Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population is somehow estimated at between 2,500 and 10,000! Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: Several good encounters with these, great views at dawn at Tambun and also at the Hotel Santika. Another was seen near Wuasa. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: A silhouette view of one at the Moluccan Scrubfowl site, then another at Labi Labi. Sulawesi Nightjar Caprimulgus celebensis: A good fly-by view of a calling bird close to our Tangkoko lodgings on our first evening there. Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Some great views of up to four in the half-light of dawn at the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Also heard from our hotel there. APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Plenty seen around the Ujung Pandang and then again in northern Sulawesi. Moluccan Swiftlet Collocalia infuscata: Quite a few were seen at lower levels at Lore Lindu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: The common swiftlet for much of the tour. Smaller than the other two species and often seen flying much closer to the ground. Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi: The common swiftlet on Java, visible around Jakarta airport. Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis: Only encountered around Wuasa at Lore Lindu with some small flocks seen. Fork-tailed Swift Apus pacificus (NL): Three seen en-route to Manado from Doloduo. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: At least one seen at Tambun, then again at the Santika Hotel. Apparently a recent colonist of Sulawesi. HEMIPROCNIDAE Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis: Not uncommon on Sulawesi, we found them at Karaenta, Lore Lindu, Toraut and Tangkoko. Moustached Tree Swift Hemiprocne mystacea: Six of these grand birds roosted along the logging track at Labi Labi, seen on all three days. ALCEDINIDAE Green-backed Kingfisher Actenoides monachus: Great views of this impressive beast, our first was a male in the forest remnant at Toraut, then three showed very well at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea (H): Heard on a couple of occasions on Halmahera, however one we tracked down at Lami resolutely stayed hidden, only Jenny getting a glimpse. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis: Three of these wonderful creatures seen on two mornings at Tangkoko, an obliging bird once it is found. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". They're certainly in trouble at Dumoga Bone given the speed of the forest destruction. Great-billed Kingfisher Halcyon melanorhyncha: A fine view of this dusky endemic on the riverside at Toraut. Another two were seen in the early morning at the Hotel Santika. Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda: Another of the fantastic finale birds that we had at Tangkoko, with a handsome pair posing well alongside the river. Blue-and-white Kingfisher Halcyon diops: Numerous encounters on Halmahera, with our first on roadside wires, then we saw up to five in a day at Labi Labi and another at Lami. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Sombre Kingfisher Halcyon funebris: We finally got the views we wanted of this Halmahera endemic on our last morning at Lami, though it had taken three visits! A couple more were heard going to roost at Labi Labi, but overall this is a very unobtrusive bird! Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Frequently seen on Sulawesi in a variety of coastal and forest-edge habitats, no doubt becoming commoner as more forest gets trashed! Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: A striking bird posed for us on the seaward side of the mangroves at Sidangoli, as we bobbed about in our speedboat! Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: A single at Ujung Pandang fishponds and another near Toraut were the only ones of the tour. This species breeds in Australasia and spends the austral winter largely in Indonesia. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax: A great close view of one of these gorgeous little birds in the forest at Tangkoko, thanks to our guides! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: The hispidoides subspecies found in Sulawesi and Halmahera looks quite different to ours, or indeed the bengalensis race. We found them at Lami on Halmahera, Toraut and Tangkoko. Perhaps a contender for a split? MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: A few seen in open country on Sulawesi, around Ujung Pandang and around Wuasa and Palu. Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni: A spectacular Sulawesi endemic that we had multiple encounters with at Lore Lindu, with at least four in a day. Certainly one of the most exotic Bee-eaters! CORACIIDAE Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii: These splendid birds were seen on three dates near Wuasa, then we met them again at Tambun and in the beach forest at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Common Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis (NL): One seen at Lami on Halmahera. BUCEROTIDAE Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (Sulawesi H) Penelopides exarhatus: Good views of four vocal birds at Karaenta Forest, the only ones of the tour. Also heard at Toraut. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Knobbed Hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix: A truly magnificent beast, found in all the Sulawesi forests that we visited, with a major concentration (35+) around a fruiting tree near Wuasa. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blyth's Hornbill (Papuan H) Rhyticeros plicatus: We saw them daily throughout our stay on Halmahera, and often in good numbers. However, they did not include any juveniles and the population may largely be wandering adults that can survive but may not be breeding! PICIDAE Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides temminckii: Only seen in the forests at Lore Lindu, where we encountered five in all. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus: Our first at Karaenta came at a moment busy with other birds, then we had multiple views of some splendid examples at Lore Lindu and Toraut. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied P) Pitta erythrogaster: Brilliant views of a very co-operative bird on the open forest floor at Tangkoko, most obliging as it circled back and forwards around us. This is of the race celebensis a Tangkoko 'celeb' indeed! Ivory-breasted Pitta Pitta maxima: Commonly heard calling on Halmahera, but views of this bird have to be acquired incrementally! The first glimpses were as we returned from the Standardwing lek, then at Labi Labi we were treated to a good show by a bird that perched up in the trees, visible to us through a series of holes in the foliage! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Elegant Pitta Pitta elegans: A shock find on our final morning at Tangkoko! A confiding bird showed very well in the beach forest, although we expected it to be a migrant Blue-winged Pitta until we studied the reference and Peter's photos! The differences are very obvious, indeed this bird looked half-way to a Hooded Pitta with a head mostly black, with a partial black throat and an 'afterthought' of a buffy supercilium, green wings with whitish 'roundels' in the primaries, and blue flashes on the shoulder and rump. The most likely subspecies for our bird would seem to be elegans which migrates north from the Lesser Sundas to islands north of Sulawesi. (Thanks to Jonathan for extra work on this.) HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Quite a few seen at various points on the tour.. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: The common resident hirundine. MOTACILLIDAE Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] tschutschuensis: Quite a few in the paddies at Wuasa, then a large roost flight of c200 headed somewhere at Toraut. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: These migrants seen regularly throughout the tour. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Moloccan Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina atriceps: A group of three were seen on our first afternoon at Labi Labi, plus another two later on. Endemic to the Moluccas. Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina temminckii: Some great views of several small parties of this white- eyed Sulawesi endemic at Lore Lindu. Notably less blue than depicted in the book! Pied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina bicolor: At least four birds seen in loose mixed flock in the forest remnant at Toraut, also heard at Tangkoko. This lowland forest species is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina leucopygia: A welcoming party of four awaited us at Tangkoko in the trees above our lodgings. Another three seen on both mornings there. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis: Two seen along the logging track at Labi Labi on two days, plus another at Lami. Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina parvula: Seen fairly frequently along the logging track at Labi Labi. As the name would suggest, endemic to Halmahera. Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina abbotti: Regularly encountered at Lore Lindu, showing off their snowy-white bellies with pride. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris: Just a single, along the logging road at Labi Labi. Sulawesi Cicadabird Coracina morio: One seen in the forest near Wuasa, another two at Toraut plus one more at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Sulawesi Triller Lalage leucopygialis: Three seen at the forest edge at Tambun, plus a single bird in the canopy at Tangkoko. Also seen in the mangroves at the Hotel Santika. This form was previously lumped in Pied Triller. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: The only one of the trip was seen at Bantimurung on our first morning. Rufous-bellied Triller Lalage aurea: An attractive North Moluccan endemic that we found throughout our stay on Halmahera. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Common around Ujung Pandang, Tangkoko and our Manado hotel. This species is introduced in Sulawesi. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Four seen by the fishponds at Ujung Pandang. Golden Bulbul Ixos affinis: Frequently encountered on Halmahera, one of the more visible forest birds there! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. DICRURIDAE Sulawesi Drongo Dicrurus montanus: Not uncommon along the high road at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: Rather common and visible on Halmahera. The taxonomy of this group is a bit of a mess! Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus: Numerous in the forest at Karaenta, Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko. This distinctive white-eyed form is of the race leucops. ORIOLIDAE Dusky-brown Oriole Oriolus phaeochromus; At least six of these demure fellows were seen at Labi Labi. A true Halmahera endemic. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Seen fairly frequently in the Sulawesi forests. CORVIDAE Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca: Commonly seen in northern Sulawesi only. Piping Crow Corvus typicus: A very handsome endemic corvid, first seen at Karaenta Forest and then more commonly at Lore Lindu, with loud calls not unlike a Common Green Magpie. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Long-billed Crow Corvus validus: A real beauty of a crow, with his open bill and pale eye giving it a truly exotic look. We saw quite a lot of these on Halmahera. Endemic to the North Moluccas. PARADISAEIDAE Paradise Crow Lycocorax pyrrhopterus: Seen well in small groups along the logging track at Labi Labi. Lots of character but rather dull for a Bird of Paradise! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Standard-wing Bird of Paradise (Wallace's Standardwing) Semioptera wallacii: Our trek to see these incredible birds began in darkness, and after a reasonably easy walk (no rain and river no longer swollen) we reached the hill and took our seats just a minute before the loud calls began, just as the light began to creep up on the horizon. Just a single male seen, making all the noise and doing all the display himself, we had some great looks as he shivered, flipped and bounced around in the trees in front of us, a thrilling experience for all that put this in at joint No.1 'Bird-of–the-trip'. We saw a couple more in the forest at Labi Labi, no doubt wondering where their lek trees had gone! Endemic to the North Moluccas. TIMALIIDAE Sulawesi Babbler Trichastoma celebense: Vocal but usually sneaky birds were seen at Karaenta (subspecies finschi), at Toraut and Tangkoko (subspecies celebense) and at Lore Lindu (which are either the latter form or rufofuscum which is intermediate between the two). Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Malia Malia grata: Several encounters with these at Lore Lindu, their Laughingthrush-like sounds marking their position as they scrambled around the epiphytes in the big trees. We enjoyed a party of six in a mixed flock on our final morning in the montane forest. Endemic to Sulawesi. Geomalia Geomalia heinrichi: This fellow very frustratingly slipped away from us on the Anaso track, with just a glimpse of him bolting away into the undergrowth. The thin piping calls that we heard then and on the previous visit were almost certainly this bird, but quite what you have to do to see it I don't know – sacrifice a rooster perhaps?! TURDIDAE Great Shortwing Heinrichia calligyna: After 'kick-starting' a couple of songsters that refused to show themselves, we managed to find a singing bird, get inside the forest to see it and enjoy some excellent views as he circled us. This species is named after Heinrich, a German collector, who worked in the Moluccas and Sulawesi between 1930 and 1932. Endemic to Sulawesi. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: A single seen on the rocks along the Tangkoko coast. Red-backed Thrush Zoothera erythronota: A fantastic encounter with a flock of five in the forest at Tangkoko. Located by one of our guide 'flankers', the birds settled down after the initial hubris and gave some stunning views. (By the way Allan, nice pictures!). Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Sula. Pied Chat (P Bush-chat) Saxicola caprata: A few sightings in open country. PARDALOTIDAE Flyeater (Golden-bellied Gerygone) Gerygone sulphurea: Often heard, and seen on a couple of occasions in the forest at Lore Lindu, at Tangkoko, and by the Santika Hotel in the more familiar habitat of mangroves. The form concerned, flaveola, is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and sings slightly differently to birds from elsewhere in Asia. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler Bradypterus castaneus: Commonly heard in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, with at least six birds actually seen, although it took several go's before John acquired satisfactory views! Our final one was watched one walking in the open on the Anaso track! Endemic to Sulawesi and the South Moluccas. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus (H): Heard in the mangroves by Ujung Pandang fishponds. The endemic subspecies concerned is celebensis, and if you choose to separate the various forms this one is supposedly placed with Australian Reed Warbler A. australis. Eastern Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: At least eight of these northern migrants showing well around the pools at Doloduo. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: Perhaps the commonest bird in the montane forests at Lore Lindu. The Sulawesi form is quite distinctive, showing a grey belly, but the song sound similar to the mainland forms. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum: Not uncommon at Lore Lindu, seen regularly and heard often. Fairly drab and chunky compared to typical Phylloscopus warblers. Endemic to Sulawesi. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Singles were seen in paddies at Wuasa and at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-capped C) Cisticola exilis: Several songsters were seen in grassy roadside areas at Lore Lindu. MUSCICAPIDAE Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta: These migrants from NE Asia had obviously arrived for the winter, we found several along the logging track at Labi Labi, and then odd singles at Toraut and Tangkoko. Not recorded on our August tours, but quite common in October. Island Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Quite a few were seen in the montane forests at Lore Lindu. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: We found a few of these furtive midgets along the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: A small number were seen in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu. Blue-fronted Flycatcher Cyornis hoevelli: Several of these most un-cyornis-like Flycatchers seen in the higher forests at Lore Lindu, more reminiscent of a Redstart or Rock Thrush! Endemic to Sulawesi. Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher Cyornis omissus: A brief look at one in the spotlight at the end of an owling session at Lore Lindu, then a good show by a vocal pair and a juvenile on our last morning in the montane forests. This form is often lumped in Mangrove Blue Flycatcher C. rufigastra. MONARCHIDAE Pale Blue Monarch Hypothymis puella: Quite visible in the Karaenta Forest and then odd ones were seen again at Toraut and Tangkoko. Previously lumped in Black-naped Monarch. White-naped Monarch Monarcha pileatus: A quick view of a roosting bird in the spotlight as we walked out to the Standardwing lek, then a longer look at two birds sat in a treetop at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas and east Lesser Sundas. Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: A total of nine were seen on Halmahera, with five being seen along the 'Standardwing trail' near Sidangoli. Slaty Flycatcher (S Monarch) Myiagra galeata: One seen on our first afternoon near Sidangoli, another at Labi Labi and a very showy bird at Lami. A fairly common Moluccan endemic that responds well to playback of its song. Shining Monarch (S Flycatcher) Piezorhynchus alecto: A pair were seen by spotlight roosting over a stream en-route to the Standardwing lek, then seen again at Labi Labi and Lami. RHIPIDURIDAE Willie Wagtail (White-browed Fantail) Rhipidura leucophrys: Notably common along the roadsides in Halmahera as we drove between Sidangoli and Tobelo, and also enjoyed by the bridge at Lami. A sign of our closer proximity to Australasia! Rusty-bellied Fantail Rhipidura teysmanni: An attractive and fairly common Sulawesi region endemic that we encountered regularly at Lore Lindu. PETROICIDAE Citrine Flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea: An attractive bird seen regularly at Lore Lindu. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Yellow-flanked Whistler Hylocitrea bonensis: A good showing, with four seen on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu, hard to spot were it not for Roger's sharp eyes. A Sulawesi endemic. Maroon-backed Whistler Coracornis raveni: A couple of sightings of a female and perhaps a male, on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. A real sneak. Endemic to Sulawesi. Yellow-vented Whistler (Sulphur-bellied W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer: The most visible Whistler in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, and often quite vocal. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis: A great look at a vocal male along the 'Standardwing trail', followed by a rather more demure female. The distinctive form concerned, mentalis, is endemic to the north Moluccas, and differs from most races by showing an incomplete black breast band. Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonota: Easy for one of these to slip by unnoticed, but we found a responsive bird that showed well at Labi Labi. Not unattractive though, the name Drab doesn't do it justice and a kinder title would be Ashy or Cinereous! Endemic to Sula and the Moluccas. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Seen often throughout the trip, on both islands and in a range of altitudes. Ivory-backed Wood Swallow Artamus monachus: Seen regularly at Lore Lindu, with some good views of perched birds at Lake Tambing. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Single migrants appeared at Tangkoko and at the Santika Hotel. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: A couple seen at Jakarta airport. STURNIDAE Moluccan Starling Aplonis mysolensis: Seen often on Halmahera and in good numbers at Labi Labi where we could see the dark eye and large bill which separates it from Metallic Starling. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis: Small parties were noted around Dumoga Bone and Tangkoko. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica: The commoner starling on Halmahera away from the good forest, with a piercing red-eye. Sulawesi Crested Myna Basilornis celebensis: Two were seen perched at Karaenta, then another single near Wuasa, our best views however were five on our last morning at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and getting harder to find! White-necked Myna Streptocitta albicollis: Our first sighting was of five at Karaenta Forest, then we met them again at Tambun and Toraut. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Fiery-browed Starling (F-b Myna) Enodes erythrophris: Not uncommon in the higher altitude forest at Lore Lindu, we had multiple opportunities to enjoy this colourful fellow. Endemic to Sulawesi. Grosbeak Starling (Finch-billed Myna) Scissirostrum dubium: Another contender for 'best starling' with his waxy red rump-feather tips and huge yellow bill, we found large flocks around Toraut where they crowded around their 'tower-block' nest trees, and at Tangkoko where they showed well in the coconut palms. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. MELIPHAGIDAE Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater (L Streaked H) Myza celebensis: We found a handful at Lore Lindu, at lower altitudes than the next species. Endemic to Sulawesi. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater (G Streaked H) Myza sarasinorum: Often sneaky were it not for the sharp call, we found a few high up on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu. Quite a bit bigger than the preceding species and showing distinctive whitish patches of bare skin on the face. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-streaked Friarbird Melitograis gilolensis: At least five of these demure birds seen along the logging road at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Sulawesi Myzomela Myzomela sanguinolenta: Quite a few of these little scarlet gems were seen in the higher forests of Lore Lindu. This endemic form is formerly lumped in Scarlet Honeyeater M. chloroptera. NECTARINIIDAE Brown-throated Sunbird (Plain-t S) Anthreptes malacensis: Several seen at Karaenta, plus a couple more at Tangkoko. Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: Seen commonly on Halmahera particularly at Labi Labi, also on Sulawesi though usually just singly at Karaenta, Lore Lindu and Tangkoko. Olive-backed Sunbird (Yellow-bellied S) Nectarinia jugularis: Seen often on both islands. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: A single at Karaenta forest and then more commonly near Wuasa where the stunning males sang and performed for us. The race here is beccarii. DICAEIDAE Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum: Several seen well at Karaenta, where we observed a nest high on a palm leaf with a precarious nestling poking his head out. Also found regularly at Lore Lindu, plus a couple at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni: At least three were seen after much searching, at the roadside near Wuasa. Endemic to Sulawesi. Flame-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrothorax: Regularly seen at Labi Labi, where we saw at least five. Three weeks earlier they had been virtually impossible to find! Endemic to the Moluccas. Grey-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum: Singles at Karaenta and Tambun, though common near Wuasa and a few more seen at Tangkoko. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. ZOSTEROPIDAE Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Regularly encountered in the higher parts of Lore Lindu. Lemon-bellied White-eye (Moluccan W-e) Zosterops chloris: Plenty seen along forest edge and regrowth areas by the road near Wuasa. Black-ringed White-eye Zosterops anomalus: Our target at the Karaenta Forest gave itself up quickly, where we found six of these south Sulawesi endemics. Cream-throated White-eye Zosterops atriceps: A good view of a responsive songster on our first afternoon near Sidangoli, then three seen well at Lami. Also noted at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops atrifrons: Quite a few seen at Lore Lindu, both in the higher forest and in the roadside scrub near Wuasa. Streak-headed Dark-eye (Streaky-h White-eye) Lophozosterops squamiceps: Fairly common and vocal in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. PASSERIDAE Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: The common sparrow, present in all open and built up areas. ESTRILDIDAE Blue-faced Parrot-finch Erythrura trichroa: Single birds seen on two days, lurking furtively in the canopy of trees along the Anaso track. Black-faced Munia (Moluccan M) Lonchura molucca: Various parties encountered throughout our tour and on both islands, the largest number were with the mixed flock near Palu. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: A dozen or more in the above mentioned flock near Palu, also at Ujung Pandang fishponds, Toraut and the Hotel Santika. Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca: Some sizable flocks were found around the various paddies we visited on Sulawesi, at Wuasa, Palu, Toraut and the Hotel Santika. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida: We found 30 of these attractive Munias in paddies close to Palu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Lesser Sundas. FRINGILLIDAE Mountain Serin (Indonesian S) Serinus estherae: Just a few fairly brief sightings and flight views in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu. MAMMALS Sulawesi Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus: With a fair amount of presumption over the identity of these due to the lack of a mammal guide, we saw several of these at Lore Lindu and at Tangkoko. Spectral Tarsier Tarsius spectrum: Two of these delightful little nocturnal creatures seen roosting in a bamboo thicket close to our lodgings at Tangkoko. Moor Macaque Macaca maura: Three seen at Karaenta forest. Sulawesi Crested Macaque Macaca nigra: A single male was seen at Tangkoko, unfortunately carrying a wound on its right arm. An impressive beast nonetheless. Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana: One observed at length foraging in a crop near Wuasa. Common Bottle-nosed Dolphin Tursiops truncatus: Some half-dozen animals off the Hotel Santika appeared to be this species. Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris: A single seen on the crossing to Labi Labi.

Image Galleries:
 Sulawesi & Halmahera Sept-Oct 2006 (Birdquest)