Bhutan: April 2006 (Birdquest)

BHUTAN 4 APRIL – 23 APRIL 2006 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: LOUIS BOON, JEREMY FRASER, EDZARD KOOPMANN, MIKE LARKIN, JANE LARKIN and MURRAY WRIGHT. Every Birdquest tour to Bhutan just seems to do magnificently, and although this was the thirteenth visit to the country for the leader, it was good luck all the way! Our list of headline rare and exotic birds was as long as ever, including Beautiful Nuthatch (our bird of the trip), eleven Himalayan Monal, three Satyr Tragopans (all seen on the road with a pair feeding in front of our bus for ten minutes) Blood Pheasants, Ibisbill, the electric Fire-tailed Myzornis, seven species of Wren-Babbler including Bar-winged and Long-billed, plus the scarce Sikkim Wedge-billed Babbler once again. Add to this Solitary Snipe, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, many Rufous-necked and Great Hornbills, Rufous-faced and Broad-billed Warblers, four species of Parrotbills, thirteen species of Laughingthrush, four Yellow-rumped Honeyguides, three Black-tailed Crakes, and two Ward's Trogon, the male of which came to give us a big raspberry-coloured send-off on our last day. This was the ninth Birdquest tour to Bhutan and still we added another nine species to the tour list that included a splendid Lammergeier and some late-winterers in the shape of Maroon-backed Accentor and Wallcreeper. We began our tour with some gentle birding in Delhi's Lodi Gardens, where we found numerous Indian Grey Hornbills, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Brown-headed Barbet, Purple Sunbird and Asian Pied Starling. Jetting off from here in early morning aboard a new Druk Air Airbus, our flight took us along the Himalayan range where under clear skies we had good looks at Mount Everest, before descended into the Paro valley and Bhutan's only airport. It wasn't long before we were birding our way along the river valley, where we found late-wintering birds such as Little Bunting, Hodgson's Redstart and Black-throated Thrushes, Rosy Pipits gaining their pink breeding dress before ascending to higher altitudes, a vocal pair of Himalayan Buzzards, our only Ibisbill of the tour that fed confidingly near the road, and a great look at a Solitary Snipe along with several Pintail Snipe in the paddies. Our first full day here in the mountains began with an early drive up the Chele La, where fresh snow blanketed everything above 3600m. The birds were no less active, and we found eleven Himalayan Monals in total, with birds scurrying off the roadsides or feeding on open pasture, a party of Blood Pheasants fully illuminated by the reflected sunshine, our first Kaleej Pheasant, Yellow-billed Blue Magpies, a busy group of Himalayan White-browed Rosefinches, and Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robins and Blue-fronted Redstarts that greeted the snowfall with song. We also found our first Black- faced Laughingthrushes, plus Rufous-fronted and Yellow-browed Tits. Returning to Paro we headed for the capital, enjoying a great view from above of a Northern Goshawk sat by the river, a mixed group of Himalayan and Amur Wagtails and some Brown Dippers. On a high grassy slope we found three Common Goral grazing peacefully. After a short stop in Thimphu, it was time to ascend the Dochu La, where in the high cool forests we found noisy Hoary-throated Barwings, our first Rufous-winged Fulvettas and Whistler's Warbler, Green Shrike Babblers, a lone Collared Grosbeak and a confiding Plain-backed Thrush feeding at the roadside. Dropping lower we found the diminutive Snowy-browed Flycatcher, a nice group of White- throated Laughingthrushes, White-tailed Nuthatch and Chestnut-crowned Warbler. A very vocal and showy Asian Barred Owlet punctuated our lunch, and as we dropped to warmer altitudes we found Slender-billed Orioles, a trio of Black-tailed Crakes, an errant Shikra, Rufous Woodpecker feeding on ants nests and some Grey-headed Starlings. Our next two nights were spent on the outskirts of Punakha, where Grey Nightjars hawked around the lights of the hotel car park. Along the Mo Chu in warm broad-leaved forests we found the dynamic Spotted Wren-Babbler pumping out his techno-rhythms, a furtive pair of Red-headed Trogons, Black-chinned Yuhina, Crested Serpent Eagle, Black Eagle, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Small Niltava, Striated Laughingthrush, Maroon Oriole, Slaty-backed Flycatcher and the restricted- range Yellow-vented Warbler. Most surprising of all though were the three roosting Tawny Fish Owls – two juveniles and an adult that sat high up a slope, looking down on the excited gaggle of observers. Further explorations in this area yielded a smart migrant Citrine Wagtail plus a pair of White-browed Wagtails, Himalayan Pied Kingfishers, two migrant Red-crested Pochards and a pair of Paddyfield Pipits. A long drive to the Bumthang valley followed, yet despite this we found plenty of good birds to interrupt our journey. We began with a perky roadside Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, a pair of Common Shelduck over Wangdi Dzong and our first Yellow-rumped Honeyguide of the trip, attending some roadside bees nests. We also found Grey-winged Blackbirds, gorgeous Red-tailed Minlas, Rufous-bellied Niltava, White-browed Shrike Babbler and had great looks at Great and Golden-throated Barbets. Over the high passes we added Plain Mountain Finch, Hume's Bush Warbler, some remarkably low Snow Pigeons at 2000m, finishing with Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinches and a Rusty-flanked Treecreeper before reaching our delightful and warm wooden guesthouse in Jakar. As we ascended onto the high road to the Thrumsing La, seemingly cold and quiet yet producing Blood Pheasant, Solitary Snipe, Asian House Martin, Rufous-breasted Accentor, Grey-sided Bush Warbler, and White-winged and Collared Grosbeaks. We crossed the 3720m pass and began dropping down the Lingmethang Road, a highway so rich in it's birding potential that we had not gone far along its upper reaches before the magic kicked in. A prompt show by a pair of Great Parrotbills set the tone, then suddenly an electric pulse of crimson and emerald shone out from a red- flowering rhododendron. Fire-tailed Myzornis! The local gods had come to greet us in the form of two males and a female, performing just metres away from us. And so it continued. A Bar-winged Wren Babbler emerged and performed, we saw our first Chestnut-headed Tesia, a Common Hill Partridge appeared briefly at the verge and then… Satyr Tragopan! A pair feeding on the road in front of the bus, the male remaining for ten long minutes as we gazed awestruck at his colourful form. Some atypically cold morning temperatures didn't stop the fun, we continued on our quest and found a Speckled Wood Pigeon, an active pair of Slender-billed Scimitar Babblers, Fire-tailed Sunbirds, a male Golden Bush Robin, our first Red-headed Laughingthrushes and a pair of late- staying Maroon-backed Accentors, feeding at the forest edge. We enjoyed a bold Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, scarce Yellow-bellied Flowerpeckers, the first arriving Large-billed Leaf Warblers, nest- building Nepal House Martins and yet another female Satyr Tragopan crossed our path. Explorations of middle altitudes revealed excitable Broad-billed Warblers, Black-throated Parrotbills, Golden- breasted Fulvetta, plus three Brown Bullfinches and a Little Forktail. The rich unbroken canopy of forest here is an essential habitat requirement to the Ward's Trogon, and rather early in our search for this jewel we located a vocal female that circled us in the interior of the forest. A colourful sideshow to this main event included Yellow-throated Fulvetta, Sapphire Flycatcher, White-spectacled Warbler, another Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Rusty-fronted Barwings, Black-eared Shrike Babbler and a confident Yellow-browed Tesia. Switching to the lower altitudes for our next camp, we enjoyed an unbroken vista of forest-cloaked ridges from 'Tiger-terrace', where nearby we found Speckled Piculet, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Brown-throated Treecreeper and a Blue-bearded Bee-eater. Overhead we marvelled at a Black Eagle doing his sky dance, and White-throated Needletails shot by. Immersing ourselves in these lively forests, we watched displaying Crested Goshawk, Rufous-necked Hornbills, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Little Pied and Ultramarine Flycatchers, Scaly and Grey-sided Laughingthrush, Rufous-throated Wren Babbler, White-naped Yuhina, Cutia, Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill, Grey-cheeked Warbler and Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo. On a memorable morning when the birds were leaping at us from every direction, a Long-billed Wren Babbler called loudly to us, exposed on a rock face long enough for us to scope him, two Pygmy Wren Babblers hopped out, plus Bay Woodpecker, Large Niltava, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher, Black-throated Prinia, Mountain Tailorbird and a curiously confiding Slaty-bellied Tesia. The time came to leave this candy store of Himalayan birds, with a few things to delay our passage such as the pair of Sikkim Wedge-billed Babblers that put on a show for us and came to within two meters! We watched Scarlet Finch, a male Black-headed Shrike Babbler, and then as we re-crossed the high country we found two Alpine Accentors and a flock of Brown Parrotbills. Proceeding to our next night stop took us via the bamboo-rich Yutong La, where we saw a splendid White-browed Bush Robin, Spot-winged Grosbeak, another pair of Slender-billed Scimitar Babblers and Great Parrotbills carrying nest materials to dense thicket. We descended into the Mangde Chhu valley, where at lower altitudes we found some dazzling Sultan Tits, and had a stunning encounter with a pair of Long-tailed Broadbills to excite us even more! Shortly thereafter the rain and cloud came in with a vengeance, and we retreated to the valley bottom, where we continued to find bird activity in spite of the drizzle. We found Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Emerald Dove, Square-tailed Drongo Cuckoo, Blue-throated Barbet, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Great Pied Hornbill, Pied Flycatcher Shrike White-crested and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes, White-throated Bulbul and Striated Yuhina. Many of the birds we found to be right next to our camp, and here we found Collared Scops Owl, Blue-throated Flycatcher, Rufous-faced Warblers, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, White-browed Piculet and Streaked Spiderhunter. Attempts to climb higher saw us immersed in low cloud, though we did find a nice pair of Kaleej Pheasants in the fog, a pair of Slaty-backed Forktails and some curiously misplaced Jungle Babblers! We had to wait out the weather some more, leisurely watching Barred Cuckoo Doves from our tents, until the skies cleared and we set off to higher elevations in search of that Holy Grail, the Beautiful Nuthatch. We managed to go so far when we came upon a very fresh landslide, blocking the road completely. We set off to walk the next few kilometres, and once reaching the target area, with a little waiting and fly-fishing, a large noisy Nuthatch shot into the tree close to us. There it is! It then proceeded to give excellent views, this gorgeous bird flying back and forth over the road, chattering away before settling down with his mate to actively feed in the roadside trees, looking rather like some kind of arborial Kingfisher! Wow! You lucky people! As the birds left our view after some 40 minutes, our bus appeared to collect us, the landslide already having been cleared! So, cue the next magic: a bizarre encounter with that arch-skulker, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, with a bird posing on the roadside for way too long! From this hiatus we continued to find great birds, with Silver-eared Mesias, some very bold Red-faced Liocichlas, Whistling Hawk Cuckoo, a brief Besra, Red-headed Trogon, Black-crested Bulbul, White- browed Scimitar Babbler, Ferruginous Flycatcher, Spotted Forktail, Rufous-necked and yet more Blue- winged Laughingthrushes (again on the verge..) another Spotted Wren Babbler, Tickell's Leaf and Strong-footed Bush Warblers, and a typically quick Common Green Magpie. A lone juvenile Pallas's Fish Eagle sat by his natal home, and inaccessible Grey Peacock Pheasants barked across the valleys. Retracing our steps over hills and valleys we found more Kaleej Pheasants, Bhutan Laughingthrushes, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Crested Goshawk, and a Rufous-bellied Eagle soared on the warm updraughts. Himalayan Bulbuls appeared on a dry slope, a Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker popped up, and a Russet Bush Warbler decided it was time to show off in full view and full voice. We continued westwards, over the Pele La where some final high altitudes (and cold!) produced a Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker, four Rufous-bellied Woodpeckers, Alpine Accentor, Slaty-blue Flycatcher and Red- headed Bullfinch, and as the Himalayan Vultures took to the air they were joined by a Lammergeier. To wrap up this fantastic journey we saw a Small Cuckoo, and a male Ward's Trogon decided to come and investigate us, approaching closer and closer as he moved upslope from perch to perch, finally crossing the road in a flurry of pink, nearly scalping the leader in the process! All done bar a few Grey Nightjars on the road to the airport, we could sit back and relax, as Mount Everest showed well for a second time and we headed back to the dusty plains of India and beyond. Certainly, this years' tour to Bhutan exceeded expectations (again!) even with the fast-accelerating disturbance to many of the accessible habitats. It's truly remarkable how this tour consistently produces such a rich and exciting suite of birds. SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL) Species which were recorded only in Delhi are indicated by the symbol (I) PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger (NL) (I): One seen in Delhi at Lodi Gardens. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Plenty found along the rivers around Punakha, plus a single seen on the Paro river. ANATIDAE Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: A surprise write-in, we saw a pair circling over Wangdi Dzong. Gadwall Anas strepera: A single bird was seen on the river near Paro, with a group of the following species. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: A flock of eight birds seen on the Paro river, then up to 20 in small groups around Punakha. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Another duck write-in – a female sat with the above species on the Po Chu at Punakha. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina: Two handsome drakes were seen drifting fast down the Puna Sang Chhu at Punakha. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey-Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus: Singles were seen along the Mo Chu at Punakha, one from our camp at Yongkola, and a pair circled their way up the Mangdechu valley below Tongsa. Black Kite Milvus migrans (I): Plentiful in Delhi, all seemingly of the race govinda. Pallas's Fish Eagle Haliaeetus leucoryphus: A single juvenile was seen sitting forlornly in the wind at Tingtibi, sat next to the huge nest in a pine tree. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus: Another write-in, we had a great look at one circling with the following species over the Pele La. Himalayan Vulture (H Griffon) Gyps himalayensis: Up to ten birds filling the sky at the Pele La, plus two were seen near the Thrumsing La and a single over Tingtibi. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela: Four singles were seen at different points on our route. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: Two were seen very well on the Lingmethang Road, one of which was displaying nicely overhead with fluffed out undertail feathers, then another doing similar was seen near Shemgang. Shikra Accipiter badius: A surprise to find one of these near Punakha at 1400m, a female sub-adult. Besra Sparrowhawk Accipiter virgatus: A very brief view of one doing its thing by zipping through the forest near Shemgang. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Often seen, particularly at higher altitudes where the race melaschistos is a breeding bird, though one or two were probably migrant northern forms such as nisosimilis. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis: A great view from above of a perched male along the Paro river, then another two birds were seen along the high road in Thrumsing La National Park. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Several nice examples seen in higher country, with a good introduction to them with a vocal pair at Paro. This has been split from Common Buzzard B. buteo in the new 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide'. I have never yet seen Upland Buzzard in Bhutan, these birds being similar in plumage yet so much smaller. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Frequently seen hunting over the forests, plus one fine individual that decided to do a sky-dance right over our camp at Yongkola. Very auspicious! Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: A late entrant, we had a good look at one that soared up and over us on our last morning at Shemgang. Mountain Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: Several airborne birds were seen, plus a couple of perched birds, a typical sight over the middle-altitude forests. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Odd birds seen in open country. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus (NL): Mike identified one that shot over along the Mo Chu. PHASIANIDAE Common Hill-Partridge Arborophila torqueola: These Partridges seem to get harder to get close to these days, let alone see them! We had a clear if brief look at one that scuttled and flew across the road near Sengor. Rufous-throated Hill-Partridge Arborophila rufogularis (H): Heard at lower altitudes around Yongkola and Tingtibi, however they could not be lured into view. Chestnut-breasted Hill-Partridge Arborophila mandelli (H): A small number were heard around Yongkola, all somewhat distant. Blood Pheasant Ithaginis cruentus: A splendid first encounter with six brightly-lit birds scurrying about in the snow at the Chele La, then we saw just one more near the Thrumsing La. Satyr Tragopan Tragopan satyra: Somewhat against the odds given the high level of disturbance along the roads this year, we enjoyed jaw-dropping views of a pair feeding along the roadside for ten minutes, plus another female crossed the Lingmethang Road. Himalayan Monal Lophophorus impejanus: Ten birds were seen around the Chele La, psychedelic males foraging on open slopes and demure but hefty females walking off the roadsides. Another male was seen very briefly on the Pele La. Kaleej Pheasant Lophura leucomelanos: A total of 14 birds were seen, with progressively better views over the course of the tour. We had splendid looks at lathami race birds around Shemgang, plus melanicterus birds were seen near the Pele La and Chele La. Grey Peacock-Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum (H): At least two different birds were heard around Tingtibi, always from inaccessible slopes. RALLIDAE Black-tailed Crake Porzana bicolor: A regular site near Paro drew a blank – too many feral dogs there perhaps. We finally had full satisfaction with up to three birds that appeared near Wangdi. CHARADRIIDAE River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: A few seen along the rivers around Paro and Punakha. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus (I): Four were seen on open areas at Delhi airport. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola: Two birds were flushed on the Dochu La. Solitary Snipe Gallinago solitaria: A good showing by this species once again. A splendid example at Paro posed for us until we walked away sated with views of its complex plumage, then we flushed two others from high-altitude 'flushes' near the Thrumsing La. Photos taken of the Paro bird look a little different to many available photos of this species, but structurally it is the same and shows the white spotting on the tertials, plus typical bare parts coloration with a dark cutting edge of the bill, and a strong eye-ring. Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: Up to seven birds seen on two days around Paro, including some close views of one feeding in a roadside paddy. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Two seen near Paro and two at Punakha. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: A total of four seen along the Paro and Punakha rivers. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii: Somewhat alarmingly for the future, we saw just one, showing well along the Paro river. Disturbance to their riverine habitat has increased dramatically in the last couple of years. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus (NL)(I): Seen at Delhi airport. COLUMBIDAE Snow Pigeon Columba leuconota: A strong showing this year, more frequent than usual and at notably lower altitudes, a reflection perhaps on the delayed spring at higher altitudes. Our first four were at 2000m near Tongsa, then we saw a flock of 28 in the more typical locality of Ura, another five at 1900m near Tongsa and two flocks totalling 96 birds around the Pele La, where they made a wonderful sight as they wheeled upwards against the backdrop of snowy peaks. Rock Pigeon Columba livia: Available. Speckled Woodpigeon Columba hodgsonii: Just a single bird seen, near Sengor. A poor showing this year. Oriental Turtle-Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Seen daily and commonly throughout. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis (I): A couple were seen in Delhi. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Regularly seen at lower altitudes around cultivation. Eurasian Collared-Dove Streptopelia decaocto (I): A few seen in Delhi. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: In good number around Tingtibi, with a group of seven entertaining us as they fed in the pouring rain, comfortably visible from our dining tent. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: One or two seen in typical fashion as they sped away from us rapidly. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus (I): At least two seen at Lodi Gardens in Delhi. Pin-tailed Pigeon Treron apicauda: At least two pairs seen well around our camp at Tingtibi. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia: Infrequently seen on this route, we saw at least four in the Tingtibi area. PSITTACIDAE Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri (I): Plentiful in Delhi. CUCULIDAE Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus: A vocal pair emerged after the rain just as we did, close to our camp at Tingtibi. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopaceus (I): A single male seen in Delhi. Asian Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx maculatus: A total of four males were seen, mostly doing their territorial flights but one perched long enough to get a good look at, along the Lingmethang Road. Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Four were seen in on our wet first morning at Tingtibi, then another two were seen in bananas near Shemgang. The new 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide', splits this form, calling it 'Square-tailed' Drongo Cuckoo S. lugubris as distinct from the 'Fork-tailed' Drongo Cuckoo S. dicruroides of Peninsula India and Sri Lanka. Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Common, noisy, yet very elusive. One flew over our Yongkola camp in the half-light, then we enjoyed a great view of one near Shemgang. Whistling Hawk-Cuckoo (Hodgson's H-C) Hierococcyx nisicolor: Several were heard along our route in warm broadleaved forest, and one gave itself up for a good look near Shemgang. The new 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide', splits this form, calling it Whistling Hawk- Cuckoo H. nisicolor as distinct from the Hodgson's Hawk Cuckoo H. fugax. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus (H): Vocal but distant at Tingtibi. Eurasian Cuckoo (Common C) Cuculus canorus: Seeming to arrive later in the month, by the end of the tour we had seen one and heard several. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus: Commonly heard with several examples seen, including one hepatic female near Punakha. Small Cuckoo (Lesser C) Cuculus poliocephalus: Actually only the second time I have seen this bird on this tour, had a reasonably good look at one in the forests below the Pele La, looking like a midget version of the above. STRIGIDAE Mountain Scops-Owl Otus spilocephalus (H): Heard nightly from our Yongkola camp, though always deceptively distant. Collared Scops-Owl Otus lettia: Just the second time this has actually been seen on this tour, on two evenings running a bird near Shemgang was seen to leave its roost and fly into an impenetrable bamboo thicket where it remained, despite repeated attempts to lure it. Tawny Fish-Owl Ketupa flavipes: Tshering's expert local knowledge came to the fore here, with an adult and two juveniles found at their daytime roost near Punakha. Just the third time we have seen this in nine years! Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H): Several were heard, yet we have only seen this once in all our visits to Bhutan! Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: A strange bubbling and chirruping drew our attention to one of these, calling repeatedly as the sky darkened with an impending thunderstorm near the Dochu La. Another three were seen around Tingtibi, also heard nightly at Yongkola. CAPRIMULGIDAE Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus jotaka: A good pre-dawn show by three of these took place in the car park of our Punakha hotel, then on our last morning in Bhutan we saw a total of five along the road to Paro airport. APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris: Seen regularly over middle altitude forests. White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus: Two of these bullet-like fellows put on an 'air-show' for us over our Yongkola camp Pacific Swift (Fork-tailed S) Apus pacificus: Frequently seen, closest views were of vocal birds around suitable nesting crags and road cuttings. Little Swift Apus affinis: Several were seen in Delhi, plus a couple more over the river at Punakha. TROGONIDAE Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus: A furtive pair were seen along the Mo Chu, a bird flashed by in the fog near Shemgang, and a vocal male showed well near Tingtibi. Ward's Trogon Harpactes wardi: A glorious forest sprite that typifies this tour in many ways. With increased disturbance along the roads, they become harder to find each year. A very vocal and excited female gave us a good long look as she circled us on the Lingmethang Road, then we completed this magical tour with a male that emerged from the depths of the forest near the Pele La, viewed from every angle as he posed at eye-level before deciding to nearly take off the head of the leader! Om mani padme hum! ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Three were seen along the Po Chu. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Three or four seen in the Wangdi and Punakha areas. Himalayan Pied Kingfisher (Crested K) Ceryle lugubris: A couple were seen along the Po Chu at Punakha and one at Wangdi. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: One seen well along the Lingmethang Road, uttering his harsh guttural chatter. Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis (I): A single was seen at Delhi airport. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe Upupa epops: A couple seen in the Paro valley only, also at Delhi. BUCEROTIDAE Indian Grey Hornbill Tockus birostris (I): A good showing in Delhi with five in the Lodi gardens. Great Pied Hornbill Buceros bicornis: Some great close encounters this year, with up to five seen around our Tingtibi camp. There seemed to be some nuptial action in the air as a pair loped around each other in a large tree that they were stripping the bark from. Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis: Some wonderful examples of these behemoths seen along the lower Lingmethang Road and Shemgang roads, although they seemed fewer than on previous occasions. Perhaps they disperse in search of food, shortages of which might have been indicated by a male near Tingtibi that appeared to be raiding a small mossy nest on a roadside cliff. Although no birds were present, it perhaps belonged to Blue-headed Rock Thrush. CAPITONIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Heard and seen frequently in the warm broadleaved forests. Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica (I): At least five were seen in Lodi Gardens, Delhi. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: A few seen along our route, most commonly around Shemgang. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: These monotonous fellows kept up their hypnotic beats at low altitudes around Tingtibi, occasionally appearing as they went in search of fruit. INDICATORIDAE Yellow-rumped Honeyguide Indicator xanthonotus: Singles were seen at two sites where Giant Rock Bees had their hives, plus another two were seen in the forest along the Lingmethang Road. PICIDAE Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus: Some good looks at birds near our Yongkola and Tingtibi camps. White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea: A richly coloured fellow that emerged by our Tingtibi camp when the rain ceased. Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: Several examples seen around Tingtibi, including a pair that had a nest hole by our Tingtibi camp. Crimson-breasted Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathpharius: Thin on the ground this year; one seen at a lunch stop on the Lingmethang Road then another in the forests near Tongsa were the only appearances. Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis: Hard to find this year, we saw only a single female, on our last day on the Pele La Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Hypopicus hyperythrus: A handsome male was seen below the Yutong La, then two pairs were seen around the Pele La area. Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus: One was watched raiding ants nests in a bush near Punakha. Also heard near Shemgang. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus: Just a single seen, near Yongkola. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: A pair was seen along the Mo Chu and then a handful more near Shemgang. Grey-faced Woodpecker (Grey-headed W) Picus canus: A good look at a pair near our Yongkola camp, then two or three more around Tingtibi. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense (I): One or two were seen in Lodi Gardens. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: Normally a real sneak with maniacal cry, we had a great view of one excited bird on the Lingmethang Road. EURYLAMIDAE Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: Heard along the Lingmethang Road, then we had a sublime encounter with a confiding pair on the road to Shemgang, all tail-wagging and flycatching! A couple more were seen near Shemgang though less memorably. ALAUDIDAE Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula (H): Heard singing distantly over the fields at Ura. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Some five or so over the river at Punakha. Nepal House-Martin Delichon nipalense: We encountered groups of these quite regularly, with some very cute birds watched nest-building at close-range on the Lingmethang Road. Asian House-Martin Delichon dasypus: A quartet seen near Ura were the only ones of the tour. MOTACILLIDAE Himalayan Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alboides: The default 'White' Wagtail along the big rivers and also in Thimphu town. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: Five were seen on a football field near Paro, two along the Po Chu, four at Wangdi and a single male at the roadside near Tongsa. White-browed Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis: A pair were watched on the riverside at Punakha. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola: A shining male of the nominate race was beside the river at Punakha. A scarce passage migrant in Bhutan and a 'write-in' for this tour. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Four were seen, usually feeding along the roads though a female frequented the river beside our Sengor camp. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Two were seen in the fields near Punakha, one of which was doing songflights that would suggest breeding, unrecorded yet in Bhutan. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Regularly encountered, with some birds singing on territory at high altitudes, while others dallied as low as 700m. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus: Not seen away from the river valleys at Paro and Punakha, we found some lovely pink birds obviously ready to go uphill. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei (NL): Louis saw one briefly near our Yongkola camp. Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina melaschistos: Not uncommon in the warm broadleaved forests, more often heard than seen. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: Always no more than a pair, we found them high on the Chele La and more typically at middle altitudes throughout the tour. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Rather few seen, favouring higher altitudes and poorer habitats than the others. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris: Often seen in the middle altitude forests, particularly along the Lingmethang Road. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus: The Minivet of the sub-tropical forests, we found them numerously at Tingtibi, plus a few along the Mo Chu. Pied Flycatcher-Shrike (Bar-winged F-S) Hemipus picatus: A small group were seen in the rain near Tingtibi. Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis: A couple were seen badly in the pouring rain at Tingtibi. RHIPIDURIDAE White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Often seen along the Tingtibi and Lingmethang Roads. Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: Infrequently seen, with birds noted on just four days, mostly at higher altitudes. PYCNONOTIDAE Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus: Seen on most days in the middle altitude forests on the Shemgang and Lingmethang Roads. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris: A pair were seen in the lowland forests near Tingtibi. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus (I): At least one seen in Lodi Gardens at Delhi. Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys: Two were seen on a dry hillside near Shemgang. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Commonly available around cultivation and forest edges at lower altitudes. White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus: Several seen well in the forests around Tingtibi. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: Just a small number were seen around Tingtibi. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii: These handsome fellows popped up on a number of occasions in lower-middle altitude forests. Himalayan Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Very common in some places such as around Punakha, Yongkola and at Tingtibi. CHLOROPSEIDAE Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii: Seen fairly commonly in lower-middle altitude forests, at Shemgang I'm sure they were imitating Beautiful Nuthatch calls! LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Several of the black-headed tricolor form were noted around cultivated areas at lower altitudes. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: Frequently encountered in fairly open country, with some reaching breeding areas at higher altitudes, others lingering down at 700m. CINCLIDAE Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi: Regularly found on larger rivers along our route. PRUNELLIDAE Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris: Great views of our first on the roadside on the Sheltang La, then another pair were watched at close range on the Pele La. Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata: Surprisingly few this year, we saw them along the Lingmethang Road and one at Shemgang. Maroon-backed Accentor Prunella immaculata: A nice surprise to find a pair of these feeding quietly at the forest edge near Sengor. A scarce winter visitor normally, and the first time this species has been seen on our tour. TURDIDAE Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina (H): Two singing birds were heard at Tingtibi, only Tshering managed to see one. Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima: A single bird was seen, hopping on the roadside on the Dochu La, spotted by our rapidly-adapting driver. Also heard singing on the Pele La. White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus: Fairly visible in open areas and forest edge at higher altitudes. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: Rather surprisingly, the only two of the tour were a pair seen near Nobding. Black-throated Thrush (Dark-t T) Turdus atrogularis: Quite a few seen this year which is unusual, with two at Paro, five on the Chele La, one on the Dochu La and two near Sengor. A winter visitor that varies in number from year to year. Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Very common along the roads, and seen on every day bar the first. MUSCICAPIDAE Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: A few were seen at 2900m on the Lingmethang Road, then again at lower altitudes around Shemgang. Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea: A single bird seen well in the forest near Shemgang. Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsonii: A female was the only one seen, along the Mo Chu. Orange-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata: Numerous at higher altitudes on the Lingmethang Road, with a scattering of sightings elsewhere. Red-throated Flycatcher Ficedula albicilla: Singles were briefly seen in Delhi and at Tingtibi. White-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger: Not our favourite Flycatcher! Several attempts to see vocal songsters along the Lingmethang Road only yielded the briefest of views. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: A vocal male was gradually teased into view on the Dochu La. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Several were encountered along the lower Lingmethang Road and around Shemgang. Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris: Just three single males seen, along the Mo Chu, on the Lingmethang Road and at Tingtibi. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor: A poor view of one near Shemgang followed by great views of two on territory on the Pele La. Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira: A couple of these canopy-dwellers were seen on the Lingmethang Road. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus: Common and visible in many of the forests. Large Niltava Niltava grandis: Heard several times along the way, with a good look at a male in middle- altitude forest on the Lingmethang Road. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae: Very common and visible along the Mo Chu, then heard often and occasionally seen on the Shemgang and Lingmethang Roads. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Some five examples seen at various points along our route. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor: Single songsters were found near Yongkola and Shemgang. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: Heard at Yongkola and again around Tingtibi where we had some good looks at males. Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni: Our first was a furtive bird below the Dochu La, then we had a great look at a male at close range on a busy morning on Lingmethang Road. Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Frequently encountered along our route. Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush Monticola rufiventris: Frequently seen at higher altitudes favouring big tree snags alongside road-cuttings such as below Sengor where they were very visible. Blue-headed Rock-Thrush (B-capped R T) Monticola cinclorhynchus: Very visible along the roads at lower altitudes. This is a summer visitor that winters to Southern India. Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitarius: Singles were seen near Punakha and around Shemgang. Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys: Very sneaky, and a brief flight view doesn't really count! Several were heard along the Lingmethang Road. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana (H): Single songsters heard on the Lingmethang Road and at the Pele La could not be enticed into view. Himalayan Red-flanked Bush-Robin (Orange-f B R, Red-f Bluetail) Tarsiger rufilatus: Numerous in the snow on the Chele La, with a handful more seen as we travelled from Jakar to Sengor. A couple were seen as low as 2400m. . This is split in the new 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide', from Northern Red-flanked Bush Robin T. cyanurus. They differ morphologically and vocally. Golden Bush-Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus: A couple of males were seen well near Sengor. White-browed Bush-Robin Tarsiger indicus: One was briefly seen near the Thrumsing La and then a very good view was had on the Yutong La. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Regularly seen, at lower altitudes and around cultivation. Hodgson's Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni: A few of these winter visitors were seen around Paro and Punakha. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: Most numerous in the snow on the Chele La, then odd singles were noted at higher altitudes along our route. White-capped River-Chat (W-c Water Redstart) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: A common sight along our route. Plumbeous Water-Redstart (P Redstart) Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Seen throughout in suitable habitats. White-tailed Blue Robin (W-t Robin) Myiomela leucura: A very brief look at a furtive songster near Tongsa. Blue-fronted Blue Robin (B-f Robin) Cinclidium frontale (H): Just one heard, singing from a steep forested slope on the Lingmethang Road. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: One at a regular spot on the Lingmethang Road, with a total of three others seen on mountain streams. Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus: A splendid look at a pair near Tingtibi. Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus: Perhaps the finest of the genus, we had a great look at a pair on a stream near Shemgang. Three others were noted coming off the roadside as we headed west from Tongsa. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Two males were seen at Paro and a single near Punakha. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferreus: Available in marginal habitats. TIMALIIDAE White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis: Frequently encountered at middle altitudes, with our first group below the Dochu La making a nice introduction. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: Not seen until we reached the Shemgang area, where several groups were seen very well as they cackled away remorselessly! Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger: Some nice looks at a couple of groups around Tingtibi. Striated Laughingthrush Grammatoptila striata: Noisy and visible at lower and middle altitudes. Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Dryonastes ruficollis: A couple of groups seen around Tingtibi were much appreciated. Grey-sided Laughingthrush Dryonastes caerulatus: Just a single bird came in to investigate us on the Lingmethang Road. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Ianthocincla rufogularis: A total of four were seen in the Shemgang area yet none posed long for a view! Spotted Laughingthrush Ianthocincla ocellata (H): Several were heard around the higher passes, yet none within visual range! Something of a bogey bird for us this year! Bhutan Laughingthrush (Streaked L) Trochalopteron imbricatum: Our first on the Lingmethang Road was consolidated with some good looks of birds on the roadside as we came to leave the Shemgang area. The new 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide', splits this from Streaked Laughingthrush T. lineatum that occurs from Pakistan to West Bengal (note the new generic names). Blue-winged Laughingthrush Trochalopteron squamatum: Surely the hardest of the group to see! Our first jaw-dropping views of this remarkably beautiful fellow were of a pair near Shemgang that came up to the roadside right by our bus, then amazingly we saw another three doing exactly the same thing the following day! My best ever views! Scaly Laughingthrush Trochalopteron subunicolor: We lured (on our fifth attempt!) a confiding pair into view on the Lingmethang Road. Black-faced Laughingthrush Trochalopteron affine: The most visible Laughingthrush around the high passes Red-headed Laughingthrush (Chestnut-crowned L) Trochalopteron erythrocephalum: Several examples were seen at higher altitudes on the Lingmethang Road and again near Jakar. Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea: Some great looks at a pair of these fantastic creatures near Shemgang. Cutia Cutia nipalensis: Just a single sighting of a group of five noisy birds on the Lingmethang Road, creeping about in a huge tree like little tigers! Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys: A couple of great looks at these charismatic fellows in scrappy habitat around cultivation. White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: Three birds were seen in the Tingtibi forests. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: Only a single seen, with Rusty-fronted Barwings on the Lingmethang Road. Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus: Again just a single seen, of the distinctive black-crowned nominate race, at a lower altitude than the above. Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris: Two pairs of these were seen very well, in their favoured high-altitude bamboo habitat near Sengor and on the Yutong la. Long-billed Wren-Babbler Rimator malocoptilus: Only four years since this was discovered in a small area of the Lingmethang Road, we had a fine view of one calling loudly from a rocky slope, immobile for long enough for us to scope it! Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: Several were heard at fairly high altitudes on the Lingmethang Road, with a confiding bird perched up and singing happily, again scoped at close range! Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: After several attempts to see this mite on the Lingmethang Road, we had a close view of two at the roadside without any bother at all. Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis caudatus: A feisty little one that is much more amenable for viewing than some of its cousins, we enjoyed repeated looks at one on the Lingmethang Road. Bar-winged Wren Babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides: Traditionally a bit of a bogey for the leader, one began singing at the roadside near Sengor on our first foray there, and came in to inspect us briefly, preferring to sit up in a tree further back, where its bull-headed spotty form could be seen well. Spotted Wren-Babbler Spelaeornis formosus: The only Wren-Babbler we didn't see on the Lingmethang Road, although it was heard there on a couple of occasions. We had a first look at one pumping out his ludicrously loud techno rhythms along the Mo Chu, and then at another near Shemgang. Sikkim Wedge-billed Babbler (W-b Wren-B) Sphenocichla humei: A friendly tip-off from David Bishop led us to a fantastic pair of vocal and responsive examples of this huge rarity, advancing to within two metres of us as we crouched on a steep slope on the Lingmethang Road. All is forgiven! Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps: Seen frequently at middle altitudes on the Lingmethang Road, and often heard. Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea: Frequently encountered on the Lingmethang Road, though like the above more often heard. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: A few fleeting looks at these skulkers were all that we managed around Shemgang. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striata: Never has this bird caused more excitement as when we found a party of four at the roadside near Tingtibi at 1050m, a rare bird at this altitude and a write-in for this tour. Also, as one might expect, they were common in Delhi. Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris: Once we had seen our first ones near Shemgang, they proved themselves to be quite common. Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea (H): Frustratingly scarce and a couple of songsters found could not be lured into view. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: A handful of small groups were found in the richest middle altitude forests along the Lingmethang Road. Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis: A noisy group of four were seen on the Dochu La where they were mobbing a briefly glimpsed Eurasian Sparrowhawk. Another was seen very well on the Lingmethang Road. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Miscellaneous sightings along the Lingmethang Road where they were usually in fast-moving flocks. Bar-throated Minla (Chestnut-tailed M) Minla strigula: Seen fairly often at higher and middle altitudes on the Lingmethang Road. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: An exquisite close view of our first three on the road above Wangdi, then plenty more were seen on the Lingmethang Road in mixed flocks. Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis: A personal favourite, we had several intimate encounters with this 'jewel of the bamboo' along the Lingmethang Road. Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea: Very visible and numerous along the Lingmethang roadsides, also observed taking moss to a nest in a clump of nettles. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: First encountered on the Dochu La then more numerously on the Lingmethang Road. White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus: The default small babbler at high altitudes, we saw plenty plus observed nest building at 2900m where the birds had constructed a deep cup of moss in a small plant at the roadside. Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis: A few seen on the lower Lingmethang Road, then more commonly around Shemgang, although always rather furtive! Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata: A common sight and sound in the Bhutanese forests. Striated Yuhina Staphida castaniceps: Several small groups seen being busy around Tingtibi. White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri: Just a couple seen on the Lingmethang Road, then three more came to mob us in the fog at Shemgang. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Common throughout the middle altitude forests, particularly along the Lingmethang Road. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: Frequently encountered at higher altitudes. Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: Like the above, fairly prominent at higher altitudes. Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta: A bird of the warmer lower altitude forests, we found them along the Mo Chu and quite commonly around Shemgang. Fire-tailed Myzornis Myzornis pyrrhoura: A 'tipping-point' in our fortunes, when the playing of their call purely for demonstration purposes caused a group of three of these forest sprites to jump up into the red flowering rhododendron beside us, and stun us with their vivid beauty. Great Parrotbill Conostoma oemodium: A good showing by these this year, our first pair appeared just minutes before the previous species, four birds on the Yutong La including a bird carrying nest material to a dense patch of bamboo, and another three heard on the Pele La. Brown Parrotbill Paradoxornis unicolor: A dense patch of bamboo on our way to Jakar yielded as many of six of these handsome birds, demure yet full of character! Grey-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis gularis (H): Heard calling some way from the road near Shemgang. Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis: Our first encounter with this little jewel on the Lingmethang Road was unsatisfactory, yet we found them again the following day, a hyperactive dozen going crazy in the roadside bamboo. Another group was seen nearby as we ascended the road westwards. Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps: Several good looks at groups of these along the Lingmethang Road. Black-headed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer: Attempts to see this came good on our last morning on the Lingmethang Road, with a splendid male that sang loudly from a roadside tree. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: Some good looks at vocal birds on the Lingmethang Road and below Nobding. Green Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus: Favouring the higher altitudes, we saw several in the earlier part of the tour. Black-eared Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius melanotis: Six different birds seen, often vocal songsters, in the middle altitude forests. White-bellied Erpornis (W-b Yuhina) Erpornis zantholeuca: A single bird showed briefly near Tingtibi. Formerly considered to be a Yuhina, now through DNA studies known to be unrelated to Babblers! CISTICOLIDAE Striated Prinia Prinia crinigera: Possibly the drabbest bird of the tour, we saw a couple near Shemgang. Black-throated Prinia Prinia atrogularis: Singles were seen on the Shemgang and Lingmethang Roads. The 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide', splits this Himalayan form from Hill Prinia P. superciliaris that occurs in South-east Asia and Indonesia. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: A single bird was seen exceptionally well along the Lingmethang Road. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Noted at lower altitudes at Yongkola and at Tingtibi. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: Several singles were seen well at the top end of the Lingmethang Road, many others heard. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivia: Despite the elusiveness of several birds we had tried to see, we had a great look at a confiding individual at the roadside on a busy morning on the Lingmethang Road. Yellow-browed Tesia (Grey-bellied T) Tesia cyaniventer: Something of a good view of one that approached quite closely as we stood in a bamboo thicket on the Lingmethang Road. Another was seen poorly near Nobding, and many others were heard singing their throaty song. Grey-sided Bush-Warbler Cettia brunnifrons: A total of five birds seen and others heard, many were very confiding. Strong-footed Bush-Warbler (Brownish-flanked B-W) Cettia fortipes: Not uncommon and heard often around scrappy habitat, we finally enjoyed a good view of one near Shemgang. Hume's Bush-Warbler (Yellowish-bellied B-W) Cettia brunnescens: This one gave itself up on the first contact, a close one as were two others seen at high altitudes on the Pele La and Thrumsing La areas. The 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide' splits this Himalayan taxon from the Chinese form, which retains the name Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler C. acanthizoides and has a different song. Russet Bush-Warbler Bradypterus mandelli: One was heard near Nobding, another sang strongly near Jakar but could not lured out, then one near Tongsa gave us the full works, sitting under a shady bank in full voice and plain view. Only the second time it has been actually seen on this tour! Tickell's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus affinis: A few seen on a couple of days at Yongkola and Shemgang. Orange-barred Leaf-Warbler (Buff-barred W) Phylloscopus pulcher: This demure fellow was quite numerous in the higher forests, such as around the Thrumsing La. Grey-faced Leaf-Warbler (Ashy-throated W) Phylloscopus maculipennis: Less frequently seen (though maybe more often noticed!) than the above, again mainly in the higher forests Lemon-rumped Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus: Regularly seen from the middle altitudes up to the higher forests where it breeds. Hume's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus humei (H): One was heard singing on the Lingmethang as we enjoyed a splendid field breakfast. Large-billed Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris: A couple of early arrivals of this summer visitor were seen near Sengor, plus another two on the Yutong La. Winters in Sri Lanka and South India. Blyth's Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: Frequently seen at middle and higher altitudes. Yellow-vented Warbler Phylloscopus cantator: Very noticeable when in full voice, we found these along the Mo Chu and at lower altitudes around Shemgang. Grey-hooded Warbler Phylloscopus xanthoschistos: A common bird in the lower altitude forests, although sometimes more often heard than seen. Green-crowned Warbler (Golden-spectacled W) Seicercus burkii: Regularly encountered around 1800- 2200m, sings with a sweeter voice than the following closely related species. (The original 'Golden-spectacled' Warbler has now been split six ways; Plain-tailed S. soror, Grey- crowned S. tephrocephalus, Omei S. omeiensis, Bianchi's S. valentini, Whistler's S. whistleri and Green-crowned Warbler S. burkii.) Whistler's Warbler Seicercus whistleri: The simple languid song of this bird was often heard in the higher forests, typically breeding above 2800m. White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis: A single songster in good voice was seen well along the Lingmethang Road. Only one other bird was heard on the whole trip. Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys: These were evident once we dropped lower on the Lingmethang Road, not dissimilar to the above. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Frequently encountered in birdflocks in the middle altitude forests. Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni: Seen on two days in the middle levels of the Lingmethang Road, we had superb close views of several there. Rufous-faced Warbler Abroscopus albogularis: Found to be fairly numerous below 1000m around Shemgang, we had several nice views of these tiny birds Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps: This little beauty was seen on two days along the Lingmethang road. Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris (H): Heard singing near Tingtibi. REGULIDAE Goldcrest Regulus regulus: Four were seen on the Chele La and a single on the Dochu La. AEGITHALIDAE Red-headed Tit (Black-throated T) Aegithalos concinnus: At least three small groups seen along our route. I fully endorse the return to the old name! Rufous-fronted Tit Aegithalos iouschistos: Small parties of these dapper fellows on the Chele, Dochu and Yutong Las. PARIDAE Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris: Few seen, in the forests around the high passes. Coal Tit Parus ater: Frequently seen in higher altitude forests. Grey-crested Tit Parus dichrous: Only seen on three dates, with nice views of our first few on the Chele La. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Seen almost daily, at all altitudes. Black-spotted Yellow Tit (Yellow-cheeked T) Parus spilonotus: Our first were seen at our picnic below the Dochu La, then more were seen along the Lingmethang Road where nest-building was observed. Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea: Great views of our first ones en-route to Shemgang, with a couple more seen there the following day. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: Often seen in higher altitude birdflocks. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta cinnamoventris: Several excellent examples of these were seen at lower altitudes around Shemgang. The 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide' splits this from the Indian subcontinent Indian Nuthatch S. castanea. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Regularly seen at middle to high altitudes. Beautiful Nuthatch Sitta formosa: What a fantastic experience! After suffering a day and a half of rain and low cloud over the Shemgang ridge, as the skies turned blue we headed up to search for this fellow only to discover a very recent landslide blocking our path! Walking the next few kilometers to reach our objective, we worked our way up and down the forested highway until we found one very agitated bird that flew calling back and forwards over our heads before settling down with it's mate to carry on the serious business of feeding, in plain view of the awestruck observers. Plus, the landslide was cleared so our bus came to fetch us just as the birds finally disappeared from view! Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria: Yet another first for the tour, one was found feeding among the river stones near Paro. You can never see too many of these! CERTHIIDAE Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris: Three were seen high up on the Chele La, plus a couple more between Jakar and Sengor. Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis: One was seen well on the Yutong La, then one more high on the Lingmethang Road. Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor: One was seen very well near our Yongkola camp as we birded in an evening shower. DICAEIDAE Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum: A scarce bird on this tour, we saw three together at 2700m on the Lingmethang Road Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus: Often seen zipping about, in quite a range of altitudes. NECTARINIIDAE Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus (I): Three seen in Lodi gardens. Mrs Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae: Several seen in the higher forests, with the best perhaps being our first on the Chele La. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: Probably the most visible small bird at higher altitudes. Black-breasted Sunbird (B-throated S) Aethopyga saturata: Quite a few seen at low altitudes such as Tingtibi where we enjoyed close views of this subtle yet vivid bird. Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda: Often hard to find, we saw it near Sengor on two days. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: Some great looks at these orange-footed fellows around Tingtibi and Shemgang. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Often visible in the subtropical forests around Tingtibi. EMBERIZIDAE Crested Bunting Melophus lathami: Favouring cultivation at lower altitudes we saw many between Tongsa and Shemgang, and a couple in the Punakha area. Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla: Three late winterers were seen along the Paro river on our first afternoon in Bhutan FRINGILLIDAE Himalayan Greenfinch (Yellow-breasted G) Carduelis spinoides: A couple of singles were seen near Yongkola and then some sizable flocks in the Shemgang area. Plain Mountain-Finch Leucosticte nemoricola: A wheeling flock of 100 were unusual at 2500m near Tongsa, plus another score were seen near Sengor. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: A female was seen near Shemgang and a group of three males near the Pele La. Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch (Beautiful R) Carpodacus pulcherrimus: Our first group was lower than normal at this time of year near Tongsa, then a few more were seen at Ura. The 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide' splits this form from the Chinese Beautiful Rosefinch C. davidianus. Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch (White-browed R) Carpodacus thura: Some good views of ten or so in the snow on the Chele La. Others were seen on the Yutong and Pele Las. The 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide' splits this from the Chinese White-browed Rosefinch C. dubius. Scarlet Finch Haematospiza sipahi: Notable in their absence, the only one we saw was a female on the Lingmethang Road. Brown Bullfinch Pyrrhula nipalensis: A nice group of three feeding in a roadside bush, singing a little, on the Lingmethang Road. Red-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala: Two were seen briefly on the Pele La. Collared Grosbeak Mycerobas affinis: Several gorgeous examples were seen along our route, on the Dochu La, Sheltang La and around Sengor. Spot-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas melanozanthos: Just a single male was seen, on the Yutong La. White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes: Two groups were encountered in the Ura area, also seen on the Yutong La. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus (I): Seen in Delhi. Cinnamon Sparrow (Russet S) Passer rutilans: Numerous in open country and around cultivation at higher altitudes. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Seen several times around habitation and around our Tingtibi camp. STURNIDAE Grey-headed Starling (Chestnut-tailed S) Sturnia malabarica: Three birds seen near Punakha were the only ones of the trip. Asian Pied Starling Gracupica contra (I): Fairly common in the Lodi Gardens. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Seen around villages at lower altitudes. ORIOLIDAE Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris: Some great looks at a pair near Punakha in their favoured pine habitat. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Often heard singing his sweet song, with birds seen along the Mo Chu, Lingmethang Road and around Shemgang. DICRURIDAE Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus (I): Seen at Delhi airport. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Well distributed with a wide altitude range and habitat preference. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: Rather common in the lower altitude subtropical forest. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Several fine specimens were seen along the Lingmethang Road, also near Shemgang. Hair-crested Drongo (Spangled D) Dicrurus hottentottus: A few shiny examples were seen around Tingtibi. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Seen on a couple of occasions below Nobding. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris: Regularly seen along the roadsides at higher altitudes, remarkably cryptic for a such colourful bird. Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis: A poor view of one in flight was all that we managed, near Shemgang. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda (I): Two or three seen in Lodi Gardens. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Common and noisy in the lower altitude forests. Eurasian Magpie Pica pica: Only seen around the Bumthang valleys and near to Ura, where they were numerous. The birds in Bhutan (bottanensis race) are the only population within the subcontinent this side of Pakistan, although they range across Tibet and China. Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes: A familiar sight around the higher altitude forests. These birds are of the macella race which lacks spots on the belly and scapulars. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax: Most numerous around Paro and in some of the higher cultivated valleys. House Crow Corvus splendens (I): Seen in Delhi. Large-billed Crow Corvus japonensis: The commonest corvid in Bhutan, most frequent at higher altitudes where they always turned up for our picnics! Indian Jungle Crow Corvus culminatus (I): At least three seen in Delhi, split from the above in 'Birds of South Asia – The Ripley Guide'. MAMMALS Moupin Pika Ochotona thibetana: A few sightings at the higher elevations. Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: A single of these impressive beasts seen near Shemgang. Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: A handful of these were seen, often at higher elevations. Irrawaddy Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus: This was the plain tawny-brown squirrel with vague banding in the tail, seen on several occasions along our route. Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii: These tiny squirrels were present in the warm broad- leaved forests. Northern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii (I): Numerous and endearing at Lodi Gardens. Golden Jackal Canis aureus: One skipped across the road in the pre-dawn near our Punakha hotel. Nepal Grey Langur (Common L) Semnopithecus schistaceus: Favouring the higher altitudes, we saw ten on the Dochu La, and then a single beast was seen near the Pele La. Golden Leaf Monkey (G. Langur) Trachypithecus geei: Only discovered in 1956 and restricted to south- central Bhutan and adjacent Assam, this was one of the rarest creatures seen on the whole trip, although you wouldn't think so with the large number of animals visible around Shemgang. Capped Leaf Monkey (C Langur) Trachypithecus pileatus: A splendid troop of nine animals was seen on the Lingmethang Road. Assam Macaque Macaca assamensis: Always shyer than the above, we saw them daily around Shemgang with a few others seen on the Lingmethang Road. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: At least five were seen along our route, with others heard. Common Goral Nemorhaedus goral: Three were seen on a high grassy slope between Paro and Thimphu, and a single shot across the road in front of us near Tongsa. REPTILES Banded Racer (Fasciolated Ratsnake) Argyrogena fasciolatus: The beast that crossed the asphalt at 2500m on the Lingmethang Road was thought to be this species.

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 Bhutan: April 2006 (Birdquest)