Cambodia: Feb-Mar 2006 (Birdquest)

CAMBODIA 17 FEBRUARY - 4 MARCH 2006 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: GEOFF BLAMIRE, SHEILA BLAMIRE, RAINER ERTEL, BILL GRADWELL, PAUL HAYES, PETER LOS, KEITH TURNER and DOUG WOOD. This year's tour to Cambodia was once again a wonderful birding experience of this magical and little- known country. The main target and flagship bird of this tour is without a doubt the Giant Ibis, and we enjoyed progressively better views over two days of this impressive beast. A minimum of six were seen and our best view was the final one, with a bird watched at length feeding in front of a small hide that overlooked a jungle pool, unperturbed by the eleven people in close proximity! It is truly remarkable then, that just five years and three months ago Giant Ibis was re-discovered by a camera- trap, set up to record mammals coming to remote trapaengs. This was the first proof of its existence since 1962, and yet this is the fourth Birdquest trip to see it! In second place in the order of thrills is the equally rare White-shouldered Ibis. We saw three of these, all singletons lurking within the forest, one in particular sat up in a tree at reasonably close range, allowing prolonged looks and a frenzy of photography! Seven species of storks were seen, with two pairs of Milky Storks at their nests in the vast swamplands of the Tonle Sap, and the goliath Greater Adjutant added to the swarms of large birds visible at that exciting venue. We had a great look at a Bengal Florican on the inundation plain, plus others that were more difficult to observe due to the long grass and late rains scenario that prevailed in the country this year. A personal favourite is always the Mekong Wagtail, recently discovered and looking unique amid the river of its name. We struggled in our quest for the little-known Chestnut-headed Partridge, rewarded eventually with a quick view! In addition to this we enjoyed a flock of Sarus Cranes, Manchurian Reed Warbler, Barred and Small Buttonquails, myriad Woodpeckers including White-bellied and Black-headed, Brown Fish and Spotted Wood Owls, Broad-billed Sandpipers, Large Scimitar Babbler and two species of Trogon; - truly we were entertained from start to finish. We recorded virtually the same number of species as last year's tour, yet had 21 new species to write in to our lists! Upon our arrival in Siem Riep, we began gently with a stroll around some of the great temples of Angkor Wat. We viewed the many Buddha faces of the Bayon Temple, and as the afternoon cooled a little we moved on to the jungley Ta Phrom with its crumbling masonry adorned with snaking tree roots. In the great trees around the site, we found plentiful noisy Red-breasted Parakeets, Lineated and Coppersmith Barbets, Asian Barred Owlet, Black Baza, Black-headed Bulbuls and Asian Brown Flycatchers. The gardens of our hotel yielded a migrant Arctic Warbler plus wintering Yellow-browed and Dusky Warblers. Our first outing into open country took us to Ang Trapaeng Thmor, a reservoir set amid a rice- growing area rich in birdlife. Our largest target here, Sarus Cranes of the race sharpei, appeared without a fuss with a splendid group of 46 trumpeting loudly in the fields. Recent rain had left much water on the ground, and from sodden paddies we flushed numerous Small and Barred Buttonquails alongside both Greater Painted and Pin-tailed Snipes. The lake itself provided Cotton Pygmy Geese and Comb Ducks, Lesser Whistling Duck, Purple Herons, both Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas and Black-backed Swamphens. Along the ditches we found a Slaty-breasted Rail, Ruddy- breasted Crakes that walked out onto the road, and around the fields we found Eastern Marsh Harrier, Black Kites, numerous Oriental Pratincoles and a few Australasian Bushlarks. One of the highlights of a trip to Cambodia is the experience of Prek Toal and it's waterbird spectacle. A long day, we began with an early start from the jetty on the shore of the Tonle Sap and set off across the great lake by boat, rolling about as the wind whipped up the surface. As per new rules, we diverted to collect permits before motoring along to the birding area, towing our rowing boats (complete with boatmen) along the shore of the lake alive with Indian Cormorants and Whiskered Terns. We reached the creek that snakes into the interior of the Prek Toal core conservation area and set off in our rowing boats. A gentle two hours being rowed upstream was entertaining, as numerous Spot-billed Pelicans splashed away on our approach, Grey-headed Fish Eagles yelped noisily overhead, and the air began to fill with hundreds of Painted Storks, Asian Openbills and Oriental Darters. We saw our first Lesser Adjutants, and a single Greater Adjutant took to the air, showing his silvery wings as he rode the thermals. Upon reaching our objective, high water levels meant we had to launch ourselves directly from boats up the rude ladder to the observation platform perched in one of the tallest trees here. Fortunately this year the Milky Storks had two nests visible from the platform, the adults shading their young from the brutal sun with wings outstretched. We enjoyed lunch in our makeshift floating restaurant before it was time to retrace our route down the narrow waterways, where Black-capped Kingfishers and Little Herons zipped away from us, many invisible Rusty-rumped Warblers and Ruddy-breasted Crakes called from the dense flooded scrub. Our last morning in Siem Riep was devoted to a sunrise visit to Angkor Wat, and after watching the golden orb rise over the ancient spires we wandered through the woods and around the Temple itself, finding Shikra, Black-naped Orioles, Blue Rock Thrushes, Red-throated and Hainan Blue Flycatchers. After a leisurely late breakfast, we headed off towards our next destination of Tmatboey in the province of Preah Vihear. A new road means we can now complete this journey in less than four hours, so we enjoyed the extra time en-route with some stops in the lowland forest along the route. Oriental Honey Buzzards, Changeable Hawk Eagles and Crested Treeswifts began to appear, Blossom- headed and Alexandrine Parakeets darted by, and as we pulled up to our lunch-stop a White-rumped Falcon flew across the road and perched up in a nearby tree for the duration of our picnic! We arrived at our destination of the small village of Tmatboey, where recent rain was much in evidence. The amount of water on the ground was a worry, as the strategy for finding Ibises centres around the available water being restricted to a few pools or 'trapaengs' in the dry season. We headed off for a full mornings trek through the hot forests, and just before the sun came up we disturbed four Giant Ibises that took off from a paddyfield and headed off into the endless forests. With this tantalising glimpse under the belt, we continued our search. These forests are full of birdlife, and Woodpeckers featured strongly with Common and Greater Flamebacks, Great Slaty, Grey-capped Pygmy, Rufous, Grey-headed and the gorgeous Black-headed all appearing on our first morning. We saw the normally discreet Indian and Banded Bay Cuckoos, Oriental Pied Hornbill, Woolly-necked Storks and a fantastic Spotted Wood Owl discovered as it was being harangued by Rufous Treepies and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos. Rufous-winged Buzzards were not uncommon, plus Burmese Shrikes, Red-billed Blue Magpies, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Black-hooded Oriole, Large and Indochinese Cuckooshrikes, Common Woodshrikes, Chestnut-tailed and Vinous-breasted Starlings, Brown and Rufescent Prinias and Purple Sunbirds all featured. After a break in the midday heat, we went searching for White-shouldered Ibis, and before long – with the assistance of the very proficient Forest Ranger, we found one that gave us a couple of good flybys and perched briefly as it tried to find a quiet place to roost. The next morning we could hear the bugling of the Giant Ibis before dawn, and set off in the direction of the calls. Before long we had found three of these glorious beasts, feeding in the open in an area of rain-flooded paddies. Good views were acquired as we skulked behind a convenient termite mound, until we tried to get even closer when these very shy birds took to the wing and disappeared once more. Hurrah! Having acquired 'Ibis-satisfaction', we set about consolidating our experience of them. A short distance away we found an obliging White-shouldered Ibis, standing in a tree for a prolonged period as we soaked up the views. The fun didn't stop there however, and we continued our day with Gold-fronted Leafbird, White-browed Fantail sat precariously on its tiny nest cup, Large Woodshrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and Indochinese Bushlark. In the afternoon we visited an area of forest with a more evergreen component, surprising another White-shouldered and two more Giant Ibises as we went, found a very vocal Orange-breasted Trogon, a pair of Brown Fish Owls posed for us, and then suddenly the ranger was beckoning urgently from a recently-constructed blind overlooking a trapaeng – a Giant Ibis (perhaps with a hearing problem?!) was feeding in front of us on the pool. We squeezed into the rickety construction and enjoyed our final view of this great bird. Oh joy! A quick stop for nightbirds revealed an obliging male Large-tailed Nightjar, then we could contentedly return to our simple wooden dormitory and enjoy the good food and cold beer provided for us by our crew. As the time came to leave these rich forests, we made a last sortie locally and found a Chinese Francolin stood calling from a tree, a Silver-backed Needletail zipped past, and the Woodpecker orgy continued with Lesser Yellownape, Streak-throated and a superb pair of White-bellied Woodpeckers. We returned to the dusty bumpy roads until we reached our next stop off Kompong Thom. Our next habitat was that of grasslands of the Tonle Sap inundation plain, where our search for Bengal Florican was hampered by unusually tall grass. Three or four were seen in flight at dusk, plus we found more Small and Barred Buttonquails that walked out on the track, a distant Black-necked Stork (seventh Stork species for the trip!), Lesser Coucal, bright male Red Avadavats and demure Baya Weavers. A morning visit to another area close to Kompong Thom yielded a great close view of a male Bengal Florican, regally yet stealthily creeping towards cover, taking flight eventually and showing himself beautifully in a fly-past. As we criss-crossed the featureless plain on bumpy tracks we encountered more open country birds, such as Eastern Marsh and beautiful male Pied Harriers, Greater Spotted Eagle, Racket-tailed Treepie, Asian Pied Starlings, Oriental Skylark, Bluethroats and Yellow-breasted Buntings, while Striated Grassbirds sang from every clump. As the sun dropped to the horizon, the stands of grass began to reveal Black-browed Reed and Dusky Warblers, Yellow- bellied Prinias, and the scarce Manchurian Reed Warblers announced themselves with harsh churrs and bright plumage. After this pleasant interlude it was time to hit the road again, crossing the Mekong river and heading up the east bank to Kratie. The one bird that we craved here was the Mekong Wagtail, so we took to the water at the village of Kampi and gently slid across the calm water, over a deep river pool where Irrawaddy Dolphins occasionally broke the surface announced only by a little huff of a blow. Further out among the small islands that sit mid-stream, we found several Mekong Wagtails, engaged in lengthy circular nuptial chases just above the surface of the water, or singing from the tops of bushes and scrambling among the branches. Our boatman skilfully nudged his craft up against a small sandy island where 40 Small Pratincoles sat, calling excitedly as we approached to within three metres of them. Other wanderings around this pleasant town yielded Indian Spot-billed Ducks, Black and Cinnamon Bitterns, Pied Kingfisher, Rusty-rumped Warbler, Richard's Pipit and some strongly- coloured Yellow-breasted Buntings. Then it was time to be on our way once more, a long journey via Phnom Penh and on to our night stop at Kampot, situated near the South China Sea coastline. The following morning saw us dodging heavy showers while we birded our way up the mountain of Bokor. In good evergreen forest on it's south slope we found Oriental Pied and a flock of Wreathed Hornbills, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Thick-billed Pigeon, Green-billed Malkoha, Racket-tailed Treepie, Green-eared and Moustached Barbets, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Great Iora, Common Hill Myna, White-rumped Shama, Forest Wagtail, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Ruby-cheeked and Crimson Sunbird, Ochraceous, Stripe-throated and Grey-eyed Bulbuls, White-crested Laughingthrush, Striped Tit Babbler, White-bellied Yuhina and Little Spiderhunter. The rough road winds its way up to the plateau at 1000m, where very dense and curiously stunted patches of forest are found, along with our accommodation in a forestry department building. During our time here we concentrated our efforts along narrow trails in thick forest, quite a contrast to the open dry woodlands off Preah Vihear. Typically this was quite hard work, but a constant drip-drip of birds kept us entertained. Our long search for the endemic Chestnut-headed Partridges almost drew a blank; no birds were calling however we managed to glimpse one or two that scurried past in the thick undergrowth. In addition we found Barred Cuckoo Doves, Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Grey-faced Buzzard, Fork-tailed Swift, Scarlet Minivets, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Siberian Blue Robin, some obliging White- browed Scimitar Babblers and less showy Large Scimitar Babblers, Streaked Wren Babbler, Long- tailed Broadbill, White-browed Shrike Babbler and Black-throated Sunbird. At dusk we had a superb close encounter with Large-tailed Nightjars buzzing us and sitting on the road at close range, while the elusive Mountain Scops Owl called distantly from the treeline. Returning to the ascent road, we spent a couple of afternoons gently strolling downhill where we found a regal Great Hornbill perched above the road, Blue-eared Barbets, Blue-winged Leafbird, Ashy Minivet, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and Rufous-bellied Eagle. Other interesting birds were heard calling from inaccessible slopes, such as Dusky Broadbill and Eared Pitta, while several calling Blue Pittas could not be lured closer. As the time came to leave, we had the rare sight of not one but two Collared Owlets vigorously calling from roadside trees, and two Red-headed Trogons leapt into view. As darkness fell, Great Eared Nightjars began calling and a distant Green Peafowl added to the soundscape. Our last day saw us scanning the saltpans along the coast, where we found Gull-billed and a flock of 70 Caspian Terns, Little Heron, Collared Kingfisher, Pacific Golden, Kentish, Lesser and Greater Sand Plovers, Curlew, Marsh and Broad-billed Sandpipers, Red-necked and a welcome group of Long- toed Stints, and a pair of Chestnut-capped Babblers in the long grass. Inside our hotel we had an intimate encounter with Germain's Swiftlets that were noisily flying in tight circles actually inside some disused rooms! We concluded our trip with lunch on the Kampot waterfront, and then it was time to head for Phnom Penh and our flights home. We had enjoyed a splendid visit to this fascinating country, and added many more birds to the tour list – an exciting exploratory aspect to this tour that I am sure will continue with every visit! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL) Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) PHASIANIDAE Chinese Francolin Francolinus pintadeanus: Several were seen in (rapid) flight around Tmatboey, but the best views were of one that stood calling in a tree at dawn on our last morning there. Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: Some poor flight views were all that we could manage, of a couple that bounced out of the scrub in front of the lead vehicle, on the plain at Kompong Thom. Chestnut-headed Partridge Arborophila cambodiana: Maybe it was the recent rain, but the birds were very reticent to even acknowledge our presence this year let alone walk into view! After much searching and luring some of us were able to glimpse one that shot by in the undergrowth. A shame, but you can't win 'em all. Classified as 'Endangered' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus (H): Heard at Tmatboey. Green Peafowl Pavo muticus (H): Something of a surprise to hear the loud call somewhat distantly at the foot of Bokor as dusk fell. DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck (L Treeduck) Dendrocygna javanica: We found a good number on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then some smaller flocks around Kratie and Kompong Thom. ANATIDAE Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: A couple of smaller flocks of these Ang Trapaeng Thmor. An extremely rare bird in Southeast Asia these days. Cotton Pygmy-Goose Nettapus coromandelianus: These attractive little ducks were quite numerous at Ang Trapaeng, though mostly discreet among taller aquatic vegetation. Indian Spot-billed Duck (Burmese S-b D) Anas poecilorhyncha: A handful were seen around Kratie and on the Mekong river there. Often, Chinese Spot-billed Duck A. zonorhyncha is lumped in this species with the name Spot-billed Duck being used for the enlarged species. Garganey Anas querquedula: A small number lurked at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. TURNACIDAE Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica: Plenty of these seen this year, with numerous examples zipping out of the grass and stubble at both Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom and Stung. The subspecies involved is davidi. The species has a wide range but the variation in plumage seems great and the birds here should look very different to those in Africa, so standby for a split! Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki: A bizarre encounter for the leader at Tmatboey, crouched behind a tree as one of these little blighters zipped past close-by, initially flushed by Doug. Although it landed some three meters from me, it immediately became invisible and couldn't be relocated, but represents the only lifer on the tour for me! Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: A couple were put to flight at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with one seen briefly running, then our best views were of a couple that emerged onto the track at Stung. PICIDAE Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: Not uncommon in the deciduous forests at Tmatboey. Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus: A couple showed reasonably well at Tmatboey. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: A couple showed well to us by a trapaeng at Tmatboey on our last morning there, a nice little send-off from a great place. Lesser Yellownape Picus chloropus: Two vocal birds were seen on our last morning at Tmatboey. Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus (H): A vocal hidden bird was heard at Prek Toal. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus: A single vocal male sat up and gave us a good view at Tmatboey. Black-headed Woodpecker Picus erythropygius: This incredibly colourful beastie made no.5 in our 'Bird-of-the-trip' roundup, we had multiple views in the dry forests around Tmatboey with many more heard there. Cambodia must be the best place to see this wonderful woodpecker! Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus: A single female was seen poorly at Tmatboey, with a couple more heard there. Common Flameback (C Goldenback) Dinopium javanense: Seen on every day of our stay in the dry forests at Tmatboey. Greater Flameback (G Goldenback) Chrysocolaptes lucidus: A trio were seen near Tmatboey, then heard regularly and a male seen at Bokor in a more typical evergreen habitat. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: This year we had some great looks at these, with four of these goliaths seen near the trapaengs of Tmatboey. MEGALAIMIDAE Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: We met these first at the Ta Phrom temple of Angkor Wat, and then found them commonly in the forests of Tmatboey where they provided a continual backdrop of sound. Green-eared Barbet Megalaima faiostricta: Several were seen on our first morning at Bokor as we birded the lower elevations. Moustached Barbet Megalaima incognita: We saw and heard many of this Indochinese endemic at Bokor, calling 'heff-a-lump, heff-a-lump!' Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: Several looks at this colourful barbet at Bokor. The subspecies concerned, cyanotis, occurs from the Himalayas to Indochina. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Seen around Angkor Wat and the Ta Phrom temple, and again in the dry forests around Tmatboey. BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: Some four were seen in the forests around Tmatboey, plus another single was seen at Bokor at lower levels. Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: A couple were seen in flight on the way up to Bokor, then on our way down again we had a prolonged look at one of these goliaths perched up in a roadside tree. Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus: It was quite a surprise to see so many, with a dozen or more flying birds seen on our first day at Bokor. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forest at Tmatboey. TROGONIDAE Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios: A vocal male performed well by a trapaeng near Tmatboey, and others were heard at Bokor. Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus: Several vocal individuals at Bokor gradually revealed themselves with a few red flashes, then we had a splendid finale of two that appeared by the roadside just as we were about to leave. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Regularly encountered in dry country. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Frequently seen around our route. HALCYONIDAE Banded Kingfisher Lacedo pulchella (H): One was heard in the forest at Bokor. Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis (NL): One was seen along the creeks at Prek Toal plus another at Tmatboey village. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Just two seen, at Tmatboey and Kratie. Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata: A few were encountered at Prek Toal, then again at Kampot salt pans. Collared Kingfisher Todyrampus chloris: A couple of vocal birds were seen well at Kampot saltpans. CERYLIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with a couple more near Kratie. MEROPIDAE Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Fairly common in the deciduous forest around Tmatboey. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Often encountered, usually airborne. CUCULIDAE Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: A single bird posed briefly in the forest near Tmatboey, and another was seen en-route to Kratie. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus: These crepuscular singers gave themselves up fairly easily this year, with two seen on our first morning at Tmatboey. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus: At least three birds seen in flight along the creeks at Prek Toal were almost certainly this species. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: A great view of a vocal bird sitting over our heads at Tmatboey, giving both call types. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: Odd ones were heard along the way, and we saw three or so along the ditches at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea (H): Often heard early and late around Tmatboey. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: Several sightings of these unobtrusive birds, at Prek Toal, Tmatboey and Bokor. CENTROPODIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Just odd ones seen, their booming calls often heard. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Several sightings of this grass-lover near Kompong Thom and Kratie. PSITTACIDAE Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis: Seen well at Tmatboey and again at Bokor where they obliged by doing some hanging! Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: A handful were seen at Angkor Wat, then several of these big parrots were seen in the Tmatboey area. Blossom-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata: Many were seen this year, en-route to and around Tmatboey, where there was a large flock in the paddyfields one morning. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Common and noisy at the Ta Phrom temple of Angkor Wat, then a handful were seen around Tmatboey. APODIDAE Germain's Swiftlet Collocalia germani: Plentiful in Kampot, where we had a strange encounter with several birds inside our hotel, noisily clicking as they presumably surveyed potential nest sites! A few were also seen around Bokor. Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis: A single bird came cruising over the treetops at Tmatboey, clearly showing its pale back patch. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Common throughout, except around Tmatboey. House Swift Apus affinis: A group around Angkor Wat were the only ones of the tour. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Not uncommon around the dry deciduous forest at Tmatboey where we enjoyed some close encounters. STRIGIDAE Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus (H): Heard distantly at Bokor, a typical encounter! Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis: We surprised a pair roosting in big trees next to a trapaeng at Tmatboey, one of which allowed a good long look. Spotted Wood Owl Strix seloputo: A great bird to find in daytime, we had a nice view of this beauty as it was mobbed by the smaller birds, on our first morning at Tmatboey. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei: Like buses, ages go by and one sees nothing of these unobtrusive yet persistently vocal fellows, then one sees two within a half hour! We enjoyed some excellent views of these in the forest at Bokor, with several others calling in the vicinity. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Seen around Angkor Wat temples, and again at Tmatboey. Spotted Owlet Athene brama (H): Heard yelping in the half-light at Tmatboey. CAPRIMULGIDAE Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis (H): An unexpected addition, two heard calling loudly though unfortunately just out of view, on the lower slope at Bokor. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: We had a good look at a male near Tmatboey, then a great encounter in the half-light at Bokor with some close looks at up to three birds, gliding around our heads and perching on the road nearby. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis (H): A distant call from one of these at Tmatboey. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (introduced) (R Dove) Columba livia: Mmm? Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Common and widespread, except at Bokor. Red Collared Dove (R Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Frequently seen, in the dry forests at Tmatboey and also at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: Plenty at Bokor, often seen in flight plus one or two seen perched, their mooing calls added to the misty mood of the plateau forest. Peaceful Dove (Zebra D) Geopelia striata: A couple of sightings near to Ang Trapaeng Thmor. This species just creeps into Cambodia from the west in this area. Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta: Just several poor flight views of these at Tmatboey. Thick-billed Green Pigeon Treron curvirostra: A good number were seen at Bokor, with some great looks at courting couples on our last afternoon there. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura: One was seen perched, but several others only in flight over the forests at Bokor. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: A few were seen around Tmatboey only. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia: Their deep calls formed a nice part of the soundscape at Bokor; we saw numerous airborne birds, plus one or two perched up. OTIDIDAE Bengal Florican Eupodotis bengalensis: Our first foray into the Tonle Sap floodplain revealed that the grass was rather high, and we only saw three males in flight at sunset. It turns out they hadn't started displaying yet due to the late-staying rainy season, so it was quite fortunate when we found a superb male in an area of scrub at Kompong Thom the next morning. After some sneaking and stalking he chose to fly, giving us all a great view of his stunning black and white form, strange stick-like legs poking out the rear. The rediscovery of this globally threatened species in Indochina was one of Sam Veasna's major achievements in his all too short conservation career. Classified as 'Endangered' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 250-999, with up to 50% of the world population in Indochina, the rest in India and Nepal. GRUIDAE Sarus Crane Grus antigone: We saw some 46 of these splendid fellows at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with most of them standing in one group in the dry rice paddies. This form is the smallest and darkest and has a few minor plumage differences from the nominate (of SE Asia) and gilliae (of Australia), although. Classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" with a declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 15,000 individuals, with only c1,000 of this subspecies sharpei. RALLIDAE Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus: A great view of what appeared to be an immature, in a ditch at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus (NL): A couple seen, at Kratie and Kampot. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca: A rare view of two birds that ventured out onto the dirt track at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, numerous calling birds at Prek Toal, also heard at Kratie and a single seen at Kompong Thom. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: Very numerous on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, a few seen around the mouth of the creek at Prek Toal, and some more seen on ponds at Kompong Thom. This is one of the species formed from the six-way split of Purple Swamphen P. porphyrio. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Prek Toal and Kratie. SCOLOPACIDAE Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: A couple were seen at Kompong Thom, and several were flushed at Ang Trapaeng Thmor that may have included another species such as Swinhoe's Snipe, though impossible to tell without a closer study. We also flushed a mystery Snipe, perhaps this species, on the plateau at Bokor. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: A couple were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and also at Kratie. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa: A single bird on the Kampot saltpans, this would refer to an Eastern Black-tailed Godwit L. [limosa] melanuroides as separated by Rasmussen in 'Birds of South Asia' Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: At least two birds on the Kampot saltpans. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: A handful at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus a score on a pool at Kompong Thom. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Several seen on the Kampot saltpans. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Up to dozen seen on the Kampot saltpans. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Quite a lot were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then another concentration on the saltpans at Kampot. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: One seen, on the Kampot saltpans. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: One near Kratie with the Small Pratincoles, then others were seen at on the Kampot saltpans. Red-necked Stint (Rufous-n S) Calidris ruficollis: A healthy sprinkling of these on the Kampot saltpan. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: A welcome sight on our last morning, we found some 15 feeding in a paddyfield at Kampot. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: A couple–of-dozen on the Kampot saltpans. Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus: Some fifteen birds on the Kampot saltpans were much appreciated. ROSTRATULIDAE Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis: One or two were put out of a damp paddyfield at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, followed by another that came out of a ditch, flight views only. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: A great number of non-breeding plumaged birds were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus a couple more seen around Kratie. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: A handful were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor that included three downy chicks following their parent. CHARADRIIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Only at Ang Trapaeng Thmor where we found 20 plus. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Several winter-plumaged birds seen on the Kampot saltpans.. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: A single on the Kampot saltpans. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Many around Kompong Thom and a few at Kratie. Kentish Plover (Snowy P) Charadrius alexandrinus: Numerous on the Kampot saltpans, favouring the drier areas. Lesser Sand Plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus: Fairly plentiful at Kampot, all but one in winter plumage.. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: A couple were picked out from the above species at Kampot. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Just four seen along our route. GLAREOLIDAE Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum: Very numerous this year with 200 or more in the fields around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus a good number around Kompong Thom and a handful at Kampot. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: A wonderful encounter with more than 40 of these on sandy islands in the Mekong at Kratie, our boat nudging alongside for some jaw-droppingly close views. They rightfully came fourth in 'Bird-of-the-trip'. LARIDAE Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: Only four seen on the Tonle Sap this year. Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: Four seen with the flock of the following species on Kampot saltpans. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: A gathering of 70 birds showed well at Kampot saltpans. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Abundant on Tonle Sap where a thousand or more were seen. ACCIPITRIDAE Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes: A trio were seen on our first afternoon at Angkor Wat, a great place to see this dapper raptor. We found two or three more around Tmatboey. Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested H B) Pernis ptilorhynchus: A couple were seen over the Preah Vihear forests, then a couple more at Bokor. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom and Kratie. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Four were seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, these would be resident birds of the race govinda which are quite uniform in comparison to the migrant Black- eared Kite M. lineatus. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Scattered sightings near water along our route, most being at Prek Toal. Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus: Great views of this splendid raptor circling overhead from our canoes at Prek Toal, with three birds seen in all. Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" due to its localized and declining population. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Three sightings in the forest around Tmatboey, plus another at Bokor. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: We saw six or more at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then in the Kompong Thom area they were very numerous and we saw many leaving their roosts at dawn. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: We were lucky enough to have four sightings of fabulous males near Kompong Thom. Shikra Accipiter badius: The default Accipiter, commonly seen in dry deciduous woodland. Rufous-winged Buzzard Butastur liventer: We enjoyed numerous views of birds in the dry forests around Tmatboey where they are not uncommon! Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus: At least two, presumably migrants, on the plateau top at Bokor. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: One or perhaps two were seen sitting on the ground at Kompong Thom at dawn. Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: One showed well over the escarpment forest at Bokor, on our last afternoon there. Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: Several examples were seen during the tour, with a few soaring adults seen in Preah Vihear province, a perched bird at Tmatboey, a white-headed immature at Kratie and a couple more along the way near Bokor. FALCONIDAE White-rumped Falcon Polihierax insignis: A thrilling find at a spot en-route to Tmatboey, a male perched up splendidly for at least 45 minutes, almost motionless in the baking heat. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: A single migrant was seen at Bokor. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Three at ATT were the only ones of the trip. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Difficult to estimate the numbers seen at Prek Toal, but 200 or more seems fair, a remarkable concentration for this part of the world! Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: A few were seen at Prek Toal, then flocks numbering hundreds were seen flying along the Mekong at Kratie, destination unknown. Also seen at Kampot. Indian Cormorant (I Shag) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: We estimated perhaps 700 birds around the Tonle Sap and Prek Toal core conservation area, part of the remarkable numbers of waterbirds here. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: The least numerous Cormorant of the trip, with 50 at Prek Toal. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: The most widespread of the egrets. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Good numbers at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Prek Toal, also at Kompong Thom and Kampot. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Many of these around our main waterbird sites, plus singles seen at Kratie and Kompong Thom. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: We saw hundreds at Prek Toal, a few at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and a couple more at Kampot. Intermediate Egret (Plumed E) Mesophoyx intermedia: Several were noticed at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and again at Kompong Thom. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: The form was common and widespread, being seen on many days of the tour. This is split from Western Cattle Egret B. ibis in Rasmussen's 'Birds of South Asia'. Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus: Common and widespread in suitable habitat, though no summer-plumaged birds this year. With winter-plumage birds, Javan Pond Heron cannot be excluded, although the tour last year (with some summer-plumages to look at) only found them at Prek Toal, so I am sure the vast majority of birds seen refer to Chinese Pond Heron. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Very numerous (by voice) at Prek Toal, plus others were seen at Kampot. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: The only sightings were at Prek Toal where they were quite visible. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: A couple were flushed near Kompong Thom, and one at dusk near Kratie gave us a better look. Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis: A nice look at this beauty, out in the open near Kratie. THRESKIORNITHIDAE White-shouldered Ibis Pseudibis davisoni: Wonderful encounters with these rare beasts this year. Our first foray took us to same area where they nested last year, however we drew a blank, but the knowledge of the Rangers was excellent and by the end of our first full day at Tmatboey we had some fair views of one that seemed to be roosting nearby. The following day was even better, when we found one that perched up in a tree for a prolonged period, allowing extended views and photographic opportunities. A third bird was then flushed from a roadside trapaeng later that same day, making three individuals seen, a splendid haul of this attractive bird. Classified as 'Critical' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 50-250, so easily as rare as the Big One! Giant Ibis Pseudibis gigantea: No doubt the centrepiece to this whole tour, and we were not disappointed! I was however rather worried that we would have difficulties finding it this year, as recent rains meant there was a lot of surface water and therefore an infinite number of places where the birds might be feeding, coupled with the fact that a group of birders here the previous week missed it completely! We had progressively better views during our time in Tmatboey, with a calling bird heard at dusk on our first evening, then on our first morning we saw four birds taking flight in the half-light of dawn, heading off into the distance never to be seen again! A performance the following morning found them feeding in paddyfields, with three birds stalking about in the open as we crouched behind termite mounds. Then we surprised two or more in the afternoon, one of which flew towards us and perched in a dead tree briefly, then we polished off the whole experience with a stunning encounter. A single bird fed on a trapaeng just in front of us as we squeezed into a recently constructed hide overlooking the pool, unperturbed by the clicking of cameras and the creaking of the blind. I think a Giant Ibis watched for a prolonged period at a range of 50m could be considered as being 'habituated'! No surprise then that this was once again 'Bird-of-the-trip'. There is a remarkable story to this bird, to underscore the value of our excellent observations. Having not been since 1962, the species was re-discovered by a camera-trap that was being used to record mammals coming to remote trapaengs in Preah Vihear province. That was only in December 2000, and now this was the fourth Birdquest tour to see it! I visited Cambodia in March 2002 and saw 6 in Chhep district, an expedition that seemed akin to Coppola's 'Heart of Darkness' journey when compared to the straightforward nature of this year's visit. PELECANIDAE Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis: We were able to fully enjoy the charisma of these fantastic creatures during our day trip to Prek Toal core conservation area, including a very tame bird that one of our boatmen decided to harass - in an effort to make it more wary of people!. Classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 11,500, Tonle Sap hosts as much as 50% of the world population, although we saw far fewer than this! CICONIIDAE Milky Stork Mycteria cinerea: The long trip across Tonle Sap was worth it to see two occupied nests, with the adults shading their young from the merciless sun – to prevent curdling I assume! This is probably the only location in the world where one can see them breeding side by side with Painted Storks. Classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" with a declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 6,100. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: They filled the air at Prek Toal where we saw many on nests too. Smaller flocks were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and near Kompong Thom. Another large waterbird with a rapidly declining population. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Only seen at Prek Toal where they numbered in the hundreds. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: We saw these daily around the trapaengs of Tmatboey. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus: 'Stork no. 7' for the tour, we had a distant view of a flying bird near Kompong Thom. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: We estimated just six birds seen around Prek Toal, then we saw two or three more around Tmatboey. Greater Adjutant Leptoptilos dubius: A rather sparse showing this year perhaps due to the time of day, but we had a good look at one in the air, and another two were visible on the horizon from the platform! Some 20% of the world population (estimated at 700-800 in 2000) inhabit the Tonle Sap area. PITTIDAE Eared Pitta Pitta phayrei (H): One heard calling from the escarpment forest at Bokor. Blue Pitta Pitta cyanea: (H): We managed to start them calling at Bokor, but they refused to come towards us or even move at all! EURYLAIMIDAE Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: A great view of one at Bokor. Dusky Broadbill Corydon sumatranus (H): Heard calling distantly from the escarpment forest on two consecutive days at Bokor. PARDALOTIDAE Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater) Gerygone sulphurea (H): A couple of distant birds were audible at Kampot saltpans. I had the first record for Cambodia near Kampot in 2002, but the coast is very clearly under-watched! IRENIDAE Asian Fairy Bluebird Irena puella: Numerous, vocal and visible at Bokor. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: A few were seen well at Bokor, of the very yellow nominate subspecies. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: A few were seen well in the Tmatboey area. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: A scattering of sightings, mostly in open country. Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides: We had some good looks at several of these attractive and localised birds around Tmatboey. CORVIDAE Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha: Several good looks at these normally furtive fellows in the deciduous forests around Tmatboey. [Common/Indochinese Green Magpie Cissa chinensis/hypoleuca: A couple of birds at Bokor teased us but were too shy to get a good look at, and as both Common and Indochinese Green reportedly occur, we could not assign them to species. Some birders who visited last year had good looks at some and reported them as Indochinese.] Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: A couple seen in the Tmatboey area, one of which was mobbing the Spotted Wood Owl. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: Several individuals noted along our route, from Tmatboey to Kampot and Bokor. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Several seen along our route, though never numerous. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Seen at Angkor Wat, Tmatboey and Bokor. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forests around Tmatboey, but mostly heard only. Large Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina macei: Quite visible and seen regularly around Tmatboey. Indochinese Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina polioptera: A few were seen in the dry forests around Tmatboey, the form concerned is the nominate one, and is the palest subspecies and thereby less similar to Black-winged than some. Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina melaschistos: Three birds were seen with a mixed flock at Bokor. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: Glimpsed at Angkor Wat, then at Bokor we enjoyed some good views of a flock. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: Numerous in the dry forests of Tmatboey. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: A few were seen around Tmatboey and some more at Bokor. This species typically prefers the wetter forests. Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus picatus: A handful were seen at Tmatboey, and then more commonly at Bokor. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: A few seen in the dry woodland around Tmatboey, where one sat upon its strange little exposed nest. Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: Odd ones seen in scruffy habitat often near water. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Common and conspicuous in open country, also present in the Tmatboey woodlands. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Seen in most forested areas, with some very pallid leucophaeus birds around Angkor Wat. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Vocal but shy in the Bokor forests, with just a couple of glimpses. Hair-crested Drongo (Spangled D) Dicrurus hottentottus: A few were seen around Tmatboey. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: A small number were seen in lowland forests. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: A few singles were seen during the tour. Asian Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: A couple were seen at Tmatboey and again at Bokor. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Most common in the woodlands around Tmatboey, with others seen around Siem Riep. Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei: A single bird appeared in a bird flock at Bokor. Large Wood-Shrike Tephrodornis gularis: Singles were seen at Tmatboey and Bokor. Common Wood-Shrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: A very common feature of the dry woodlands around Tmatboey. MUSCICAPIDAE Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Some nice looks at these at Angkor Wat that included some of the red-bellied philippensis race, plus a couple were seen around the old buildings at Bokor. Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica: A scattering of birds seen in both deciduous and evergreen forests along our route. Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki (H): Just one bird heard at Bokor, which remained unseen. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla: Only encountered on our first afternoon at Angkor Wat. Formerly lumped in Red-breasted Flycatcher F. parva. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: One was seen at Tmatboey, then three more were seen on the plateau at Bokor. [Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas: A female seen at Bokor was initially called as this, however in retrospect it could not be safely assigned to species.] Hainan Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hainanus: A good look at a male at Angkor Wat, one of probably several singing there. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope: A flash past of a calling bird at Bokor was the closest we got, others also heard at Kratie and Kompong Thom. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Several birds, normally being rather furtive, were seen around the Kompong Thom area, Kratie and Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Siberian Blue Robin Luscinia cyane: Just one female seen in the forest at Bokor, with one or two others heard. Always a bit of a sneak. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Seen and heard at various locations. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: Typically brief appearances by furtive songsters at Tmatboey, on the lower slopes at Bokor, plus it was heard near Kampot. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Frequently encountered in open country such as at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Kompong Thom. Most if not all of would be referable to the subspecies stejnegeri. Pied Bushchat (P Stonechat) Saxicola caprata: Most often seen around the dry woodland and clearings of the Tmatboey area. STURNIDAE Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus: Just two were seen, near the paddyfields at Tmatboey Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra: Odd birds seen near Kompong Thom and at Kampot saltpans where they were nest-building. Black-collared Starling Sturnus nigricollis: Quite a few noted around Ang Trapaeng Thmor and the Tmatboey woodlands. Vinous-breasted Starling Sturnus burmannicus: Small groups were encountered in the Tmatboey forests, and then again at Kratie. This leucocephalus form is rather different to the red- billed nominate form one sees in Burma, so watch this space for a split! Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Common and widespread. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: More localised than the above, and absent in more heavily- forested areas. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: Just a few seen at lower altitudes at Bokor. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Regularly encountered in the Tmatboey area, these birds refer to the tonkinensis race.. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Two pairs were seen in the Tmatboey woodlands, then another one Bokor. PARIDAE Great Tit Parus major: A single songster at Tmatboey was the only record. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Numerous around the Kompong Thom area, and also at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. All the birds studied appeared to be this species, rather than Pale Martin which could in theory also occur. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Seen throughout, particularly in open country. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Seen regularly and usually in fair numbers, they probably all refer to wintering Red-rumped Swallows rather than the similar Striated Swallow, and certainly some good looks at birds near Tmatboey seemed to bear this out. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps: Only seen on our first day at the Ta Phrom temple. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: A common sight and sound in the forest at Bokor. Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Common in the dry woodland around Tmatboey. Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni: Regularly seen in the forest at Bokor. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: The most visible Bulbul of open country and habitats close to human habitation. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi: Seen mostly in the Siem Reap area, including our hotel garden. Others were seen at Bokor and Tmatboey, but it's not a very memorable bird! Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus: A noisy representative of its family, frequently heard and seen at Bokor. Grey-eyed Bulbul Iole propinqua: A distinctive nasal mewing heralded this demure fellow at Bokor. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Some very black birds flew by en-route to Tmatboey, they refer to the wintering sinensis race. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: A few were noted in the Kompong Thom area, also seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa: One or two birds vocal birds were seen in areas of grassy understorey in the dry deciduous forests around Tmatboey. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forests at Tmatboey. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: At least two and probably more were singing at Tmatboey. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris: Heard along the Prek Toal waterways, and seen fairly well in the grass near Kompong Thom and at Kratie. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Odd birds were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Kompong Thom. SYLVIIDAE Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata: Always very sneaky, with one seen briefly in grass at Stung and a couple more seen at Kompong Thom. They were frequently heard calling but almost always invisible. Rusty-rumped Warbler (Pallas's Grasshopper W) Locustella certhiola: Commonly heard along the waterways at Prek Toal, then we managed to coax one in for a view at Kratie. Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps: A few were seen reasonably well around Kompong Thom. Manchurian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus tangorum: Always a bit of a struggle to see them in the heat of the Tonle Sap plain, but in the late afternoon we managed to coax out one or two for some reasonable views. They didn't want to come out of their favoured tall dry grass, but their churring calls are diagnostic, and although superficially similar to the above they appear larger and brighter with a longer bill and tail. Classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World" due to its small (2,500-10,000) and declining world population. Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: Several were found at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and a couple more at Kompong Thom and Kratie. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Odd ones seen, in the gardens of our Siem Reap hotel and around Tmatboey. Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis: Not uncommon and rather vocal in the jungle at Bokor. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: The 'tacking' call was often heard, actual birds being harder to see though. Found in typical wintering habitat of low scrub near water, such as around Kompong Thom and at Kratie, and also in the garden of our Siem Riep hotel. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: Most frequently seen at Bokor, but also at Tmatboey and Angkor Wat. Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis: A rather tatty migrant was found in the garden of our Siem Riep hotel. Pale-legged Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tenellipes (H): Several were heard in the forest at Bokor, all staying well in cover. A shy bird that is often hard to observe. Plain-tailed Warbler Seicercus soror (H): Another real skulker! Numerous examples were heard at Bokor. Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris: A pleasant addition to the swampy edges around Kompong Thom and Kratie, with a loud song to announce its presence. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: Our first encounter was an atypically good view of a group at Tmatboey, then more of these noisy fellows obliged us at Bokor. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps (H): Heard in the forest at Bokor. Large Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos: A splendid call coming from deep in the jungles of Bokor, we had a view of one that circled us rapidly and 'whooshed' over our heads. White-browed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: Several very good encounters with these vocal birds at Bokor. Streaked Wren-Babbler Napothera brevicaudata: A couple of birds were seen in dense jungle at Bokor, a bird that perhaps typified our frustrations on a difficult trail - a dun-coloured groveller visible if you looked through the right hole in the foliage! Striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis: Definitely common at Bokor, though a little persistence was required to get any views. Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata: A late addition to our list, with two birds circling us in tall grass near Kampot. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: A couple were glimpsed at Bokor, several others heard. White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca: Many seen at Bokor, with their nasal little call. Probably more visible here than anywhere else I can think of! ALAUDIDAE Australasian Bushlark (Singing B) Mirafra javanica: Quite a few in the dry grasslands around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and again on the Kompong Thom grasslands. They have a more 'skylark-type' song and show white outertail feathers in contrast to the next species. Indochinese Bushlark Mirafra marionae: Several seen around Tmatboey in typical habitat of open woodland. One of the recent splits out of 'Rufous-winged' Bushlark. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: A bird in the fields at Kompong Thom was fairly well-studied, and more were encountered at Kampot salt pans. NECTARINIIDAE Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied F) Dicaeum ignipectus: We had a great view of a male at Bokor that came very close to us. These birds are of the cambodianum form which lacks red on the underparts. This race is endemic to western Cambodia and adjacent south-east Thailand, and their pectus is definitely not igni! Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: Only seen early on in the trip, around Siem Riep and ATT. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Anthreptes singalensis: A pair were seen at lower altitudes on Bokor. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: A few scattered sightings. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forests around Tmatboey where some fine males were seen. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: Fairly visible at Bokor where it is represented by the endemic subspecies cambodiana. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: Splendid looks at a couple of these on the lower slopes of Bokor Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra: Often heard at Bokor, with a couple of brief encounters there. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: This 'humble-fellow' is invading Cambodia from its western borders, we saw it at Siem Riep and near Kompong Thom. Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus: A handsome Sparrow, we bumped into them regularly in dry country. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: The urban Sparrow in much of Asia. Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus: A bird watched feeding along the track at Bokor was most likely to be a migrant, although in virtually the same place as two last year. Mekong Wagtail Motacilla samveasnae: Another real Cambodian speciality, this handsome bird, only recently discovered and described, is easy to see with a competent boatman. We were able to study several 'doing their thing' of scrambling around in the bushes that cover the mid- river islets on the Mekong at Kratie, though they seemed to spend more time in long flights close to the surface in what appeared to be nuptial chases. Eastern Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] macronyx: Several individuals of this form were seen along our route, the only 'Yellow' Wagtails that we saw. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Roadhogs at Bokor! Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi: A great view of one sat in a tree at Kratie, showing his lanky form and a very long hind-claw. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Not uncommon in open country such around Kompong Thom. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Two were seen fairly well at Tmatboey and a couple more on the plateau at Bokor. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Quite numerous around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, also found in good numbers around Kompong Thom. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus: A sizeable flock of these in the grass near Kompong Thom Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: A colourful group were seen near Kompong Thom, notably including some very red males. Also glimpsed at ATT. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Some active groups were visible at Kratie. FRINGILLIDAE Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola: Our first were some flighty birds at Kompong Thom, then we had some better looks at these handsome fellows at Kratie. MAMMALS Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: Several good views of the very attractive chestnut-coloured form at Bokor. Finlayson's Squirrel (Variable S) Callosciurus finlaysoni: This deep rufescent squirrel with a white tail- ring we saw well at Angkor Wat and Tmatboey. Cambodian Striped Squirrel Tamiops rodolphei: These tiny things were seen at Tmatboey and again at Bokor. Tomb Bat sp Taphozous sp.: Several seen within the main temple at Angkor Wat. The most likely species is the Black-bearded Tomb Bat (T. melanopogon). Local knowledge would be required to confirm this. Crab-eating Macaque (Long-tailed M) Macaca fascicularis: Several were seen along the roadsides at Angkor Wat. Pileated Gibbon Hylobates pileatus (H): The distinctive 'song' was heard distantly at Bokor. Northern Tree- Shrew Tupaia belangeri: One seen well in a bush at Bokor. This species has a very wide distribution across Southern and South-Eastern Asia and is also referred to as the Malay Tree-Shrew. Irrawaddy Dolphin Orcaella brevirostris: Up to five in the deep water pools in the Mekong at Kratie, announcing their presence with a quiet huff as they broke the surface, though never showing more than a low back. Apparently just 70 survive in the Mekong and this population is sadly declining, largely due to by-catch from gill-netting, and collisions with fast boats. [Sumatran Serow Capricornis sumatraensis: What was thought to be this species clattered into the forest ahead of us at Bokor, never seen nor did it vocalise!] REPTILES Tonle Sap Watersnake Enhydris longicauda: The endemic beastie, forlornly hanging in a net at Prek Toal. Puff-faced Watersnake Homalopsis buccata: Another net-trapped fellow, stuffed rudely into a water bottle for the boatman's tea! Tokay Gecko Gecko gecko: Several sightings of these big geckos, many others heard!

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 Cambodia: Feb-Mar 2006 (Birdquest)