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7 – 27 AUGUST 2005 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: GARY BABIC, MARLENE BABIC, GUDRUN BERNDT, PETER BERNDT, DAVE CHANTLER, JESPER MEEDOM, BETTY POWER and THOMAS REBER. This was the first of two Birdquests to Sulawesi and Halmahera this year, and was once again a wonderful visual feast of great birds. We were hungry to seek out as many endemics as possible and were thrilled by a glorious avifauna, an enjoyment underscored by the fact that it is clear that this tour will not be able to operate indefinitely given the rate of habitat destruction occurring all around! From a personal point of view, in the six years since my previous visit many areas were unrecognisable. Apart from the 'habitat difficulties' the tour ran superbly, thanks to the great organisational skill of our agents, and there was a big improvement in comforts compared to previously. Of course the birds here are superb, and we ran up a long list of quality species that on Sulawesi included stunning looks at Ochre-bellied Boobook and Satanic Nightjar, both at first by torchlight and then subsequently at daytime roosts, Purple-bearded Bee-eaters, Great Shortwing, Malia, Lilac- cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf and Great-billed Kingfishers, Sulawesi Crested Myna, and array of colourful Pigeons, Parrots and Starlings. On Halmahera where there are still many areas of good forest, we found a whole new suite of thrills that including the highlight of watching the dawn lek of Wallace's Standardwing - in a different place to six years ago and much more of an intimate experience with these magical birds of paradise. We found the unusual Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar and Moluccan Scops Owl posing well, Ivory-breasted Pitta, a plethora of colourful Parrots, and we enjoyed a dreamlike excursion to see the rare Moluccan Scrubfowl, on a black sand beach basking under a full moon against a backdrop of an electric storm and a smoking volcano! We began our tour after arriving in Ujung Pandang in the south of Sulawesi (though our first birds were Javan Munias seen from the departure lounge as we passed through Jakarta). Our first morning found us in the Karaenta Forest, walking along the road among limestone hills where we quickly acquired our target of the localised Black-ringed White-eye. In addition we found Green Imperial Pigeon, Sulawesi Drongo, Slender-billed and the smart endemic Piping Crows, White-necked Myna, some brief Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills plus our first Blue-backed Parrots, Grey-sided and Yellow-sided Flowerpeckers. At the foot of the mountain we ran into an example of the as yet undescribed 'Sulawesi' Flycatcher, Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker, White-shouldered Triller and Lemon-bellied White-eye. After some lunch we proceeded to the airport and our flight to Palu. Arriving quite late, we mounted our jeeps and completed our onward journey to our comfortable lodgings at Lore Lindu in darkness. The accommodation here was a great improvement on my previous visit, and also just a half hour drive from excellent montane forest at 1600m. We began our hunt for the endemic thrills here and had a very busy first morning that kicked off with some noisy Malias, our first Yellow-billed Malkoha, Caerulean Cuckooshrikes, Rusty-bellied Fantails, Sulawesi Babbler, Island Verditer, Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, the unusual Blue-fronted Flycatcher, a single Yellow-flanked among the more numerous Yellow-vented Whistlers, stunning Fiery-browed Starlings, Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater and Sulawesi Myzomela, Black-fronted and Mountain White-eyes, Mountain Tailorbirds and a Chestnut-backed Bush Warbler. We ascended the famous Anaso track and found the much desired prize of Purple- bearded Bee-eater, nesting in a sandy cliff and viewing us from the adjacent trees. We found noisy flocks of Golden-mantled Racquet-tails, Rusty-breasted Cuckoo and more of the dapper Piping Crows. On subsequent visits we covered more of the higher forests, and over the four days that we spend here we found mixed bird flocks with Pygmy Cuckooshrike, Citrine Flycatcher, Ashy and Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpeckers and Streaky-headed Dark-eye. We found several good raptors, with a great look at a pair of Small Sparrowhawks, plus Barred Honey Buzzards, Sulawesi Hawk Eagle, Sulawesi Serpent Eagle, Black and Rufous-bellied Eagles. Some of the skulkers required persistence, such as the Great Shortwing that circled us on a steep slope, while up on the Anaso track we found Greater Sulawesi Honeyeaters, Mountain Serin, Little Pied and Snowy-browed Flycatchers and a Maroon-backed Whistler. At night we enjoyed a great view of Sulawesi Scops Owl and a rather less-obliging Speckled Boobook, but best of all were the Satanic Nightjars. Our first was by torchlight, hunting along the forest edge and flying down the torch-beam repeatedly, and then one of our hard-working jeep drivers found a roosting bird in the daytime! We enjoyed that one at very close range before leaving it to continue its slumber. An array of Pigeons entertained, with gorgeous Red-eared and Superb Fruit Doves, flocks of White-bellied and Grey-headed Imperial Pigeons, Brown Cuckoo Doves, plus we found Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot and bullet-like Yellow-and-Green Lorikeets. At lower levels we found plenty of great birds such as the exotic Sulawesi Crested Myna, Purple-winged Rollers attending a nest, Sulawesi Cicadabird, Sulawesi Blue Flycatchers, Ivory-backed Wood Swallows, Grey-rumped Tree Swifts and majestic Knobbed Hornbills, while Purple Needletails zoomed over the forest edge. Around village paddyfields we found our first Spotted Kestrels, a quartet of Buff-banded Rails, Cinnamon Bittern, Pacific Black Duck, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon, Plaintive Cuckoo, Short-tailed and Grosbeak Starlings. As the time came for us to retrace our steps to Palu, we were waylaid by fruiting trees full of Pigeons, a Sulawesi Goshawk, Gould's Bronze Cuckoo, Ornate Lorikeets, Black-naped Orioles and Golden- headed Cisticola. Paddyfields en-route provided Black-faced, Pale-headed, Scaly-breasted and Chestnut Munias, plus Blue-tailed Bee-eaters. We flew back to Ujung Pandang for the night where we saw Savannah Nightjars hawking alongside the busy highway into the city. A short visit to the much-diminished fishponds provided us with a nice flock of Australian Pratincoles and some Sunda Teal, White-headed Stilt, Little Tern and Long-toed Stint, before we flew directly to the island of Ternate. Arriving here we were whisked off to the quayside and onto our speedboat across to Halmahera in time for a late lunch, collecting a couple of Bridled Terns along the way. Our first foray into the field on Halmahera was a busy one, with roadside stops providing Grey- headed Fruit Dove, White Cockatoo, Eclectus Parrot, Moustached Tree swift, Rufous-bellied Triller, Golden Bulbul, Slaty Flycatcher, Black Sunbird and Paradise Crow, while at dusk we watched an amazing flight of 121 Blyth's Hornbill going to roost. Not a bad start! The following morning we drove to Tobelo and our next boat ride, en-route finding Variable Goshawk, Common Cicadabird, Long-billed Crow, Common Golden Whistler and Willie Wagtail. We boarded a speedboat that sped us across the bay to Labi Labi, a crossing that produced Lesser and Great Frigatebirds and Greater Crested Terns. From our landing point on the beach, we headed into the forest, dodging rain showers and finding a Moluccan Goshawk as the trail underfoot turned into a slippery challenge! We then found that last years camp had been washed out, and no-one had been on the trail to the Standardwing lek for a year, therefore the trail needed reopening! We enjoyed a stunning view of a Moluccan Scops Owl almost inside our new camp, situated as it was at the forest edge by a cool clear stream that provided some respite from the humidity. We spent a morning staggering about on the available trails, while others members of our crew prepared the route to the Standardwing lek. The forest yielded many delights such as Pacific Baza, Blue-capped Fruit Dove, Spectacled and Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon, Halmahera Cuckooshrike and an immature Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk. By afternoon the trails were open for us, and soon we hit a multitude of Parrots, with Violet-necked and Chattering Lory, Great-billed and Red-cheeked Parrots, plus our first Wallace's Standardwings. Goliath Coucals emerged in the last light of the day as they boomed their bass notes around the forest, and we had close views of a family of Blue-and-white Kingfishers next to the camp. Early the next morning we trekked in the dark to the lek of Wallace's Standardwings, and arrived there just as the first glimmer of dawn prompted the birds to commence their cacophony. We watched some five males putting on their display, fanning their shimmering blue-green breast shields that gradually became discernable in the morning light, while their plumes waved around as they jumped from perch to perch or indulged in tumbling aerobatics, as the demure females looked on. This spectacle made us forget the hardships of wet clothes and sticky mud, as did the great views of an Ivory-breasted Pitta that circled us high in the trees. Mission accomplished, we packed up and trekked back to the beach and the village where lunch had been prepared, before our speedboat whisked us back to Tobelo via a pod of Spinner Dolphins. Following a welcome pause in a Tobelo hotel, we set off after supper and drove out to a nesting beach for Moluccan Scrubfowl. We were ferried across a channel in dugouts as Large-tailed Nightjars chuntered away in the palms, arriving on a black sand beach under a full moon. The birds come here from the forests of the interior to lay their eggs in the sand, and it wasn't long before we could see silhouettes of these chicken-like birds walking about in the open. A couple appeared close enough for spotlighting, while over the bay an electric storm flashed and a smoking volcano completed the exotic backdrop. The following morning we made our way back to Sidangoli, with multiple roadside stops producing Red-flanked Lorikeets and Moluccan Hanging Parrots, White-bellied Cuckooshrikes, Moluccan Starlings, White-streaked Friarbird, Brush Cuckoo and Creamy-throated White-eye. From Sidangoli we headed back out into the logged forest, finding hordes of Rainbow Bee-eaters looking as if they were getting ready to head back to Australia, an obliging Gurney's Eagle, glimpsed Variable Dwarf and Azure Kingfishers, and another Moluccan Scops Owl emerged at dusk. Our last day on Halmahera added a Drab Whistler, Flame-breasted Flowerpecker, Pied Imperial Pigeons, a lot of Common Dollarbirds (but no Purple ones), and at dusk we encountered the strange Moluccan Owlet Nightjar that teased us a while before we had visual satisfaction. A last visit to the forest produced a roosting Dusky Scrubfowl, spotlit as it teetered in the top of a small tree unsure of what to do, plus we saw pairs of both White-naped and Spectacled Monarchs. Bidding farewell to this exciting island we whizzed back to Ternate, seeing Red-necked Phalaropes and a Beach Kingfisher along the way. This was the first link in the journey that took us via a restaurant and the airport in Ternate, a plane to Manado and then minibuses that took us to Dumoga Bone National Park where we arrived after dark. Our dilapidated lodgings were understandably looking rather forlorn, as vanishing point approaches for the adjacent lowland forest of this so-called National Park. Repeated visits to the Maleo site were in order as few birds were present, and the two that a small minority of us glimpsed were very shy. With a goldmine just around the corner and chainsaws going at it loudly on the slopes above, the pressure is building at this site. Nevertheless we saw one of the amazing chicks walking down the trail before flying off (we were assured it wasn't a releasee from the hatchery here!) and many other lowland forest birds kept us entertained. We saw Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbills, Sulawesi Black Pigeons, Grey-cheeked and Pink-necked Green Pigeons, Green Imperial Pigeons, Black-naped Fruit Doves, Large Sulawesi Hanging Parrots, Black-billed Koel, White-necked Myna, Spotted Harrier and Great Eared Nightjar, while in the adjacent paddies we found Barred Rail, Oriental Darter and Cinnamon Bittern. In the much-diminished forest near our lodgings we enjoyed some lively forays, with Lilac-cheeked, Sulawesi Dwarf and Great-billed Kingfishers all found in a morning, Yellow- breasted Racquet-tail, Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove, Bay Coucal, Yellow-billed Malkoha, Sulawesi Triller, Sunda Teal, Knobbed Hornbills, Pied Cuckooshrike, Purple-winged Roller, Isabelline Bush- hens jay-walking in the rain, an unco-operative Blue-breasted Pitta, and a beautiful adult Rufous Night Heron that we liberated from a squatter's tether. We found Ochre-bellied Boobooks at night in the forest, and then again in the daytime when one posed in the open for us. The time came to drag ourselves away, and we returned to Manado for a gentle close to what had been an eventful and action packed tour. Around our well-positioned hotel we found White-rumped Cuckooshrikes, nest-building Pink-necked Pigeons, Asian Palm Swifts clinging onto their palm frond nests and Grey-tailed Tattlers feeding on the tidal mud. We had seen a wonderful array of little known and seldom-seen endemics, although at times it was a bittersweet experience - as the rate of habitat destruction continues, we should feel blessed to have seen as many birds as we did . This has to be the world's most threatened region and the urgency to visit is now even more critical – go now before it's all gone! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). FREGATIDAE Great Frigatebird Fregata minor: Two were seen on Halmahera: A female that cruised over the road near Sidangoli, and then an immature over the beach at Labi Labi. Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel: We had some good views of six on our crossing from Tobelo to Labi Labi, plus a handful more unidentified birds off Sidangoli and en-route to Ternate from there. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: A single was seen on Lake Tambing in Lore Lindu National Park, plus another was seen by the paddies at Tambun. Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". ARDEIDAE Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Regularly seen on minor wetlands, such as the Wausa paddies, Ujung Pandang 'fishponds', and the various paddies and pools around Dumoga Bone Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: A couple of singles seen around Toraut, Dumoga Bone. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Few seen, mainly between Manado and Dumoga Bone, plus a single at Ujung Pandang. Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra: A single bird was seen from the vehicle as we approached Manado. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Fairly common in open country on Sulawesi, although not seen on Halmahera. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa: Frequent in the Sulawesi rice paddies and in various other wet places. Many birds were in splendid breeding plumage. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Singles were seen at Ujung Pandang 'fishponds' and at Sidangoli. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: A splendid example hiding in plain sight in the paddies at Tambun. Rufous Night Heron (Nankeen N H) Nycticorax caledonicus: A beautiful adult was discovered tethered by its leg at Dumoga Bone. Once rescued by our heroic group, it flew off strongly back to the forest, leaving us to ponder the 'tickability' of such a releasee… ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: Two were seen on our journey between Tobelo and Sidangoli. Pacific Baza (Crested B) Aviceda subcristata: Just a pair were seen at Labi Labi, where they appeared to be displaying around one of the clearings. Barred Honey Buzzard Pernis celebensis: Progressively better views of these were had at Lore Lindu, plus another was seen at Dumoga Bone. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: We often encountered this widespread and attractive bird. It is still pretty common in this part of the world. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: A single immature was glimpsed shooting over our hotel in Sidangoli. Sulawesi Serpent Eagle Spilornis rufipectus: We saw a couple in Lore Lindu National Park, both in flight. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Spotted Harrier Circus assimilis: A poor view at first at Tambun, then a more obliging bird sailed by close-to on our afternoon visit there. A predominantly Australian species. Sulawesi Goshawk Accipiter griseiceps: A single bird gave a reasonable look as it flew across a clearing on our last morning at Lore Lindu, and appeared to give a little bit of display flying with shivering wingbeats. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Variable Goshawk (Grey G) Accipiter novaehollandiae: The common accipiter on Halmahera, we saw some five birds around the island. Moluccan Goshawk Accipiter henicogrammus: Infrequently seen on this tour, we had a fair look at a perched bird near to our camp at Labi Labi that showed the darker, richer tones typical of this species. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Small Sparrowhawk Accipiter nanus: We had great views of a very vocal pair of these gems along the top road at Lore Lindu National Park. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Rufous-necked Sparrowhawk Accipiter erythrauchen: A perplexing diminutive accipter that we watched at close range at Labi Labi could only have been this species, showing only streaking and no barring on the underparts. Endemic to the Moluccas. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Three or four birds were seen at Lore Lindu, flying in typically slow arcs through the treetops. Another was seen en-route between Dumoga Bone and Manado. Gurney's Eagle Aquila gurneyi: Some superb views of perched and close flying birds on Halmahera, very satisfying after just a glimpse of an immature bird on our first afternoon there. Classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: A couple were seen soaring high over the forest at Lore Lindu National Park. Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus lanceolatus: We had several sightings in Lore Lindu National Park, with a pale immature showing well around Lake Tambing, and an adult that briefly perched close to us on our last morning there. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. FALCONIDAE Spotted Kestrel (Moluccan K) Falco moluccensis: There were many opportunities to see this distinctive kestrel with scattered sightings throughout the tour. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A couple of sightings on the tour, with our first between Sidangoli and Tobelo, and then a grand view of a second bird as we stopped for a break between Manado and Toraut. These refer to the small dark ernesti subspecies. ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling Duck (Diving Tree D) Dendrocygna arcuata: Possibly becoming scarcer due to human disturbance, some of us saw two flying in the dusk near Dumoga Bone on our journey there, plus some very distant birds were seen in flight near Toraut Sunda Teal Anas gibberifrons: We found four on the fast-disappearing fishponds at Ujung Pandang, and then we saw a fair number of them on paddies and the river at Dumoga Bone. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa: Three birds were lurking in the wet paddies at Wausa. MEGAPODIIDAE Dusky Scrubfowl Megapodius freycinet: Often heard on Halmahera although we never got very close to any calling birds, however we had a most fortuitous find of a restless roosting bird high in a roadside bush along the logging track during a pre-dawn owling effort. Moluccan Scrubfowl Eulipoa wallacei: We had a magical experience when we visited the volcanic black sand beach where they come to lay their eggs. With a full moon to illuminate everything, we saw perhaps twenty birds in the distance, with one or two close enough to be spot lit, as an electric storm flashed across the bay and a smoking volcano completed the backdrop! Classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population is estimated at just 10,000. It is declining rapidly due to human exploitation and has already become extinct at several of its former haunts. Maleo Macrocephalon maleo: A sorry tale of a poor turnout by these much-threatened birds. Three visits to the well-known breeding site at Tambun yielded one brief partial view for a couple of us, then another glimpse of one flying out of the rattans and away. Oh well, we gave it our best shot, but the situation here is not good. There are clearly few birds here (our maximum was two to three birds calling) disturbed no doubt by the chipping away of the habitat, with chainsaws audible on the slope above the nesting area, and a gold mine nearby contributing to the problem. We did however manage to see a week-old chick walking down the path before flying off, allegedly not one of the releasees from the hatchery. Plus of course we had very close views of one or three day old chicks, caged in the hatchery for a day or two before release. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population is estimated at just 8,000-14,000 and declining due to exploitation and human disturbance. In some areas, the populations have declined by up to 90% since 1950! RALLIDAE Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis: Four were seen well in the paddies at Wausa, emerging as dusk fell to march out about in the open. Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus: Some great views of this personal favourite of mine, with perhaps seven or eight birds seen in all, with some great views of birds marching about on the roads at Toraut and Tambun, with at least two birds watching hurrying along with food in their mouths to some discreet nest in the herbage. The subspecies concerned is celebensis and this form lacks the chestnut breast band shown by birds in the Philippines. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: A couple of brief sightings for some in the paddies at Wausa. Rufous-tailed Bush-hen Amaurornis moluccanus (H): Two birds were heard close to our camp at Labi Labi, but refused to be coaxed out of a very dense thicket! Always annoyingly difficult to see. Isabelline Waterhen Amaurornis isabellinus: Fortunately we all managed to see this skulking and handsome Sulawesi endemic close to our lodgings in Dumoga Bone National Park, emerging onto the road during a rather heavy rainstorm. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: A couple were seen in paddies near Dumoga Bone. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Seen in the paddies near to Toraut. RECURVIROSTRIDAE White-headed Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus: Some twenty were seen at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. This dubious(?) species is often lumped in the familiar Black-winged Stilt H. himantopus, though it does show a distinctive head pattern. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Three were seen at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. SCOLOPACIDAE Common Redshank Tringa totanus: Just a couple were seen at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia (H): Heard at the Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A handful were seen around paddies at Wausa and near Palu, plus a few more at Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: A single was seen in flight at Sidangoli, also heard at Manado. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Several were seen at Ujung Pandang 'fishponds', plus singles were recorded along the Halmahera coast and at Manado. Grey-tailed Tattler (G-rumped T) Heteroscelus brevipes: A good view of three on a rapidly rising tide at our hotel near Manado. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: Some five were seen at Ujung Pandang 'fishponds', all rather worn-looking adults. Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus: Several small groups were seen from our bumpy speedboat ride between Halmahera and Ternate (just six weeks after I had watched them on breeding grounds in Iceland!) GLAREOLIDAE Australian Pratincole (Long-legged P) Stiltia isabella: Some good looks in the scope and in flight of up to fifteen of these exotic waders at Ujung Pandang 'fishponds'. LARIDAE Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus: Two were seen perched on debris as we crossed from Ternate to Sidangoli, plus another seen in flight between Labi Labi and Tobelo. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: A large gathering of sixty or more at the fishponds near Ujung Pandang. Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii: Quite a few seen well from our speedboat rides around Halmahera. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove Columba livia: Recorded several times. Red Collared Dove (R Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Two or three recorded on journeys around Ujung Pandang and Palu. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Small numbers seen in open habitats. Brown Cuckoo-Dove (Slender-billed C-D) Macropygia amboinensis: One of the most regularly recorded birds on the tour, often heard and seen well on many occasions on both islands. Two forms are involved, albicapilla, the paler-headed form on Sulawesi and albiceps on Halmahera. Sulawesi Black Pigeon (White-faced Cuckoo-Dove) Turacoena manadensis: We had some great views of several of these normally elusive pigeons at Tambun and also at Toraut at Dumoga Bone. A Sulawesi endemic with its scientific name referring to the town of Manado. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A brief flyby view of one for some of us at Dumoga Bone. Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans: Some great views of a flock of these brightly-coloured fellows at Tambun. Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon Treron griseicauda: Our first were a couple of singles around Wausa, then we found many more at Dumoga Bone flocks were seen in fruiting trees. Red-eared Fruit Dove Ptilinopus fischeri: We saw these on three days at Lore Lindu, some of which were quite confiding. Endemic to Sulawesi. Maroon-chinned Fruit Dove Ptilinopus subgularis: We had good looks at a single bird in the forest at Dumoga Bone National Park, just before we were distracted by a Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher! Also heard at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Superb Fruit Dove Ptilinopus superbus: After a couple of singles seen at Lore Lindu, we enjoyed a 'tree- full' on our last morning there. The subspecies here is temminckii. Blue-capped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus monacha: Some nice views eventually of this tiny dove near our camp at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Grey-headed Fruit Dove Ptilinopus hyogastra: Not uncommon on Halmahera where found them on our first afternoon and regularly thereafter. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-naped Fruit Dove Ptilinopus melanospila: A single seen only by the leader at Lore Lindu was consolidated at Tambun where we had a good look at one perched up in a dead tree, followed by a couple more seen there on one of our subsequent visits. This completed the set of the birds pictured on the cover of Dave's list! White-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula forsteni: After an initial absence at Lore Lindu, we saw good numbers in the lower forest near to Wausa with some 25 seen in the late afternoon. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Grey-headed Imperial Pigeon Ducula radiata: After some initial head-scratching over one or two birds, we found plenty in the lower forests at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: One of the first forest birds that we saw, in the Karaenta Forest, then we had a lot of time to study numerous individuals around Dumoga Bone where they were common. The interesting subspecies paulina found on Sulawesi sports an attractive rufous nape which forms a shaggy crest, surely a big temptation for the splitters! Spectacled Imperial Pigeon (White-eyed I P) Ducula perspicillata: A total of three birds were seen well on Halmahera. Cinnamon-bellied Imperial Pigeon Ducula basilica: We could often hear his deep growling calls on Halmahera, and saw a handful at Labi Labi and near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: We found these fairly frequently on Halmahera, and a handful were seen flying by our hotel near Manado. PSITTACIDAE Violet-necked Lory (Moluccan Red L) Eos squamata: We eventually managed to get some views of perched birds at Labi Labi, with numerous others seen just shooting past. Also seen along the Logging track near Sidangoli. Ornate Lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus: Several were seen fairly well as they flew by in the trashed forest between Lore Lindu and Palu, plus some were seen poorly at Dumoga Bone. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Yellow-and-green Lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis: The only birds we saw were three in total at Lore Lindu, all in flight although they did circle us, sadly without landing. Endemic to Sulawesi and Sula. Chattering Lory Lorius garrulus: We had a good prolonged look at these at Labi Labi. A sadly declining species, endemic to the North Moluccas and classified as 'Endangered' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Threatened by habitat destruction and human exploitation, this North Moluccan Endemic had an estimated population of 31,000-220,000 in 1991 and it is estimated that trappers may catch as many as 10% of the population in a year, a clearly unsustainable rate of harvest! Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis: We found a few at Labi Labi on our last morning there, and then had much better looks at them as we travelled from Tobelo to Sidangoli when we found some in coconut palms. Actually a lifer for the leader, missed on my previous visit in '99! White Cockatoo Cacatua alba: A very visible and noisy feature of the forests on Halmahera, where they are still fairly common. Endemic to the North Moluccas, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population was estimated at between 43,000-183,000 in 1991, though as the trees keep tumbling down the potential nesting sites must become scarcer and this combined with trapping does not bode well for the future. Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus: Numerous examples were seen on Halmahera, usually calling raucously as they flew above the forest though we did managed to scope some perched males. Just a couple of the brightly-coloured females were seen, and only in flight. This species shows some of the most extreme sexual dimorphism in the bird world. Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi: We managed to see quite a few of these attractive parrots, still not uncommon on Halmahera. Yellow-breasted Racquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans: Some good spotting from Jesper produced some
has some bizarre 'toy-trumpet' calls, the best way to tell it from the following species. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Golden-mantled Racquet-tail Prioniturus platurus: We found these to be common high up at Lore Lindu, although a little luck was required to get a look at a perched bird. Also seen at Tambun, flying birds identified by their raucous calls. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blue-backed Parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus: We had some scope views of perched birds in the Karaenta Forest, and again near the end of the trip at Dumoga Bone. Great-billed Parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos: We had some good looks at four birds, both perched and in flight, in a 'parrot-storm' at Labi Labi. Large Sulawesi Hanging-Parrot Loriculus stigmatus: We eventually found these at Tambun where we had multiple views of birds perched up in a dead tree during our Maleo vigils. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Hanging-Parrot Loriculus amabilis: Seen well with the Red-flanked Lorikeets in coconut palms between Tobelo and Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas, Sula and Banggai islands. Small Sulawesi Hanging Parrot Loriculus exilis: Some brief and poor views of four at Lore Lindu was all that we managed. Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". CUCULIDAE Sulawesi Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus crassirostris (H): We heard one in the far distance at Lore Lindu, a typical encounter! Endemic to Sulawesi. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: One showed fairly well at the Wausa paddyfields. Rusty-breasted Cuckoo (Indonesian C) Cacomantis sepulcralis: A constant feature of the background soundscape at Lore Lindu where we saw a couple well, also calling often at Dumoga Bone with one seen there. Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus: A handful were seen on Halmahera, most notably a couple that sat out on wires above the road between Tobelo and Sidangoli. Gould's Bronze Cuckoo Chrysococcyx russatus: A splendid individual that perched nearby for us to study at length on our last morning at Lore Lindu. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris (H): A singing bird was heard at Dumoga Bone. Black-billed Koel Eudynamys melanorhyncha: Heard once or twice at Lore Lindu and then more commonly at Dumoga Bone where we eventually had a good view of a male at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, yet some authorities (see Handbook of Birds of the World) lump this form together with Australian and Common Koels. Yellow-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus calyorhynchus: A real favourite, we got progressively better views during the tour, with a few glimpses at Lore Lindu to start with, and then numerous birds around Dumoga Bone becoming more and more showy as the days went by, even presenting themselves for scope views and photography! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Goliath Coucal Centropus goliath: Perhaps even more impressive than the fine views we had of this whopper was the symphony of fantastic organ-like calls! We saw three together one evening at Labi Labi, and another along the logging road near Sidangoli. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Frequent sightings and often heard, particularly on Halmahera and around Dumoga Bone. Bay Coucal Centropus celebensis: A little sneaky, but we had some nice looks at confiding birds in the forest at Dumoga Bone. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. STRIGIDAE Sulawesi Scops Owl Otus manadensis: Seen very well at Lore Lindu, after it gave us the run-around for a while. It was getting light when it finally stopped and perched in plain sight, and we were able to watch this handsome fellow until we were sated. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Moluccan Scops Owl Otus magicus: Great views of this remarkably big-footed fellow by our camp at Labi Labi, where for ages it sat looking angry. Another one emerged in full view close to Sidangoli. Ochre-bellied Boobook Ninox ochracea: We had a real result this year with this fellow. Our owling foray into the forest at Dumoga Bone produced a pair of these, one of which showed well to us, and then the following day we disturbed a roosting bird in the daytime. It is quite possible that this is the first time the species has been photographed in daylight… Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Speckled Boobook (S Hawk Owl) Ninox punctulata: A very vocal bird at Lore Lindu kept flying back and forwards across our torch beam but always staying high up and perching out of view. A typically unobtrusive owl, not easy to see without a tape. Endemic to Sulawesi. AEGOTHELIDAE Moluccan Owlet-Nightjar (Long-whiskered O-N) Aegotheles crinifrons: A good view of a brown morph bird that eventually gave itself up in the forest near Sidangoli, although we couldn't really see it's head (probably because it has such a small one?!) Endemic to the North Moluccas. CAPRIMULGIDAE Heinrich's Nightjar (Satanic N) Eurostopodus diabolicus: A successful dusk vigil at Lore Lindu yielded one of these big dusky fellows floating about close in to the forest edge. It was actually one of the best torch-light views of a Nightjar that I've ever had, as the bird seemed to be attracted to the light! This was eclipsed however by the bird roosting by the Anaso track, found in the daytime by one of our illustrious jeep drivers. It allowed very close approach and full satisfaction all round! Endemic to Sulawesi, and classified as 'Vulnerable' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". The world population is somehow estimated at between 2,500 and 10,000! Great Eared Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: A handful were seen, at both Tambun and along the river at Toraut. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: Numerous birds were calling around the Moluccan Scrubfowl site, and we had a distant view of one on the ground at some range. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis: Audible during dinner at our Ujung Pandang hotel, and we saw up to four in the dusk along the busy roadside outside the town. APODIDAE Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis: Plenty seen around the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Moluccan Swiftlet Collocalia infuscata: Quite a few were seen at lower levels at Lore Lindu and at Manado, plus some seen on Halmahera where they are darker plumaged. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: The common swiftlet for much of the tour. Smaller than the other two species and often flying much closer to the ground. Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis: Up to 30 at a time were seen on the Wausa side of Lore Lindu. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: A couple were seen between Lore Lindu and Palu, and a couple more at Tambun. At our hotel near Manado they were active around the palms and we could even see a bird 'perched' on its tiny fluffy rim of a nest on a near-vertical palm leaf surface. Apparently a recent colonist of Sulawesi. HEMIPROCNIDAE Grey-rumped Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis: Uncommon on Sulawesi, we saw some at Karaenta Forest and again over the forest near Wausa. Moustached Tree Swift Hemiprocne mystacea: Some nice scope views of these grand birds on Halmahera. ALCEDINIDAE Common Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera galatea: Always shy and elusive on Halmahera, a glimpse was had of a calling bird on our first morning at Labi Labi. Lilac-cheeked Kingfisher Cittura cyanotis: The sharp eyes of Marlene scored again, and we were able to watch a very obliging bird in the forest at Dumoga Bone, seemingly nailed to the perch for as long as we wanted to watch it! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". They're certainly in trouble at Dumoga Bone given the speed of the forest destruction. Fifth most popular bird in our 'Bird-of-the-trip' roundup. Great-billed Kingfisher Halcyon melanorhyncha: The last of three splendid kingfishers in a morning at Dumoga Bone, we had a leisurely look at one of these dusky endemics perched on a branch overhanging the main river. Endemic to Sulawesi and the Sula islands. Blue-and-white Kingfisher Halcyon diops: Numerous encounters on Halmahera, with 12 birds seen in a day around Sidangoli, and most memorably an enchanting family group posing right by our camp at Labi Labi. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris: Fairly common in forest clearings on Sulawesi, no doubt becoming commoner as more forest gets trashed! Beach Kingfisher Halcyon saurophaga: A fine example was watched on the seaward side of the mangroves at Sidangoli, from the comfort of our speedboat! Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta: Seen frequently throughout Sulawesi and Halmahera. This species breeds in Australasia and spends the austral winter largely in Indonesia. Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx fallax: A great close view of one of these gorgeous little birds in the forest at Dumoga Bone, thanks to Jesper's keen spotting! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". Variable Dwarf Kingfisher Ceyx lepidus: A glimpse was all that we could manage of one of these on Halmahera. Blink and you missed it! Azure Kingfisher Alcedo azurea: A single (of this predominantly Australasian species) whizzed up river as we waited for the above species. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Our first on Halmahera we initially thought was the above species, so different is the hispidoides subspecies found here! We saw a handful more along the river and on paddies at Dumoga Bone. Perhaps a contender for a split? MEROPIDAE Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Odd singles seen in open country on Sulawesi, most though were seen between Lore Lindu and Palu. Rainbow Bee-eater Merops ornatus: Large numbers of these were seen throughout Halmahera, including a swarm of 200 or more that looked like they were ready to head back south. The later tours record many fewer of these jewels. Another Australasian breeder that spends the non-breeding season further north. Purple-bearded Bee-eater Meropogon forsteni: A spectacular Sulawesi endemic that we had multiple encounters with at Lore Lindu, partly because we passed his nest in a sandy cliff several times, and every time it would shoot out into an adjacent tree! We saw several pairs, and even found one close to Wausa. Certainly one of the best Bee-eaters, the sixth most popular bird of the trip! CORACIIDAE Purple-winged Roller Coracias temminckii: A splendid pair were watched near Wausa bringing food to their nest high in a massive tree. We also saw a pair in recently trashed forest at Dumoga Bone. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion Common Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: Quite a few seen in logged forest on Halmahera, especially when we were looking for its rarer relative! BUCEROTIDAE Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (Sulawesi H) Penelopides exarhatus: We began with some poor views of wraith-like birds at Karaenta Forest, but then had full satisfaction with a pair at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Knobbed Hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix: A truly magnificent beast, we found our first ones cruising across the valley near Wausa as at least 13 went to roost, and we found them once again at Dumoga Bone where we had some terrific close views. This groups number two 'bird- of-the-trip'. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Blyth's Hornbill (Papuan H) Rhyticeros plicatus: We certainly never ran short of these wonderful birds on Halmahera, with a count of 121 going to roost on our first evening there. We saw them daily throughout our stay, however they did not include any juveniles and the population may largely be wandering adults that can survive but may not be breeding! PICIDAE Sulawesi Pygmy Woodpecker Picoides temminckii: Seen on several days, first at the Karaenta forest and then again at Lore Lindu where we had six in a day. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Ashy Woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus: An excited pair kept zooming back and forward over our heads at Lore Lindu, eventually allowing a perched partial view. Also heard at Dumoga Bone. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. PITTIDAE Blue-breasted Pitta (Red-bellied P) Pitta erythrogaster: A frustrating tale, a single contact with a bird at Dumoga Bone that showed itself to Gudrun and Peter before disappearing altogether. Also heard calling at dusk on Halmahera as we waited for the Owlet-Nightjar. Ivory-breasted Pitta Pitta maxima: After a few false starts we had full satisfaction in the forest at Labi Labi with a bird that went around us in the forest. Several others were heard and even glimpsed on occasion, and one along the logging track flew over Dave's head! With a scientific name appropriate to the experience, this was overall the third most popular bird on the trip! Endemic to the North Moluccas. HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Plenty seen, particularly along the Halmahera coast as we drove from Tobelo, all wintering birds arriving from the north. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: The common resident hirundine. CAMPEPHAGIDAE Caerulean Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina temminckii: Some great views of several of these white-eyed Sulawesi endemics in the birdflocks at Lore Lindu. Pied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina bicolor: We had some fine views of males and females spotted by Jesper, on a productive morning at Dumoga Bone. This lowland forest species is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and classified as 'Near Threatened' in BirdLife's "Threatened Birds of the World". White-rumped Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina leucopygia: The last endemic of the tour, we saw four fairly briefly in the grounds of our hotel at Manado in the early morning, then some of us saw them do another languid fly-by just before we left. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina papuensis: Several birds seen well as we travelled between Tobelo and Sidangoli, and again the following day . Halmahera Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina parvula: We saw three birds at Labi Labi as we searched for navigable trails! As the name would suggest, endemic to Halmahera. Pygmy Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina abbotti: Just a single was seen briefly at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris: Good views of three along the road towards Tobelo on our first morning on Halmahera. Sulawesi Cicadabird Coracina morio: Two birds were seen in the lower reaches of Lore Lindu, also heard at Dumoga Bone. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Sulawesi Triller Lalage leucopygialis: We saw three at Dumoga Bone, two of which were very active next to our lodgings and flying around in big circles overhead. Another was seen by the Ujung Pandang fishponds along with the following species. This form was previously lumped in Pied Triller. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-shouldered Triller Lalage sueurii: A couple were seen by the 'giant monkey' at Karaenta, then a single by the Ujung Pandang fishponds. Rufous-bellied Triller Lalage aurea: A common and attractive North Moluccan endemic that we first met on our first afternoon near Sidangoli. PYCNONOTIDAE Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: Seen around Ujung Pandang, Palu and our Manado hotel. This species is introduced in Sulawesi. Golden Bulbul Ixos affinis: Often seen on Halmahera, one of the easier forest birds there! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion, Sula and Moluccas. DICRURIDAE Sulawesi Drongo Dicrurus montanus: We found our first of these at Karaenta with a rather secretive birdflock, then we found a couple of vocal birds at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: Rather common and very visible on Halmahera. The taxonomy of this group is a bit of a mess! Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus: Not uncommon at Dumoga Bone, where we found quite a few of this distinctive white-eyed form (of the race leucops). ORIOLIDAE Dusky-brown Oriole Oriolus phaeochromus (H): Unfortunately the closest we came to finding this was one heard only at Labi Labi. Strange in it's absence this year. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Not uncommon in the Sulawesi forests. CORVIDAE Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca: Our first were a pair at Karaenta Forest, then seen commonly around Dumoga Bone and even en-route to and from Manado. Piping Crow Corvus typicus: A very handsome corvid first seen at Karaenta Forest, and then regular at Lore Lindu, with very loud calls not unlike a Common Green Magpie, although this fellow says 'Pipe-Ing-Crow.' Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Long-billed Crow Corvus validus: We saw quite a lot of these on Halmahera, and for the crow connoisseur this is a real beauty, with his pale eye giving it a really exotic look as befits the surroundings! Endemic to the North Moluccas. PARADISAEIDAE Paradise Crow Lycocorax pyrrhopterus: We found this to be not uncommon on Halmahera, they were certainly quite visible right from our first afternoon. Rather dull for a bird of paradise though! Endemic to the North Moluccas. Standard-wing Bird of Paradise (Wallace's Standardwing) Semioptera wallacii: Birds are always best enjoyed after some nervous waiting, and after a days delay while the trail was cut through the jungle, we were not disappointed. We trekked for over an hour in the dark to reach the lek (easier once we had completed training on the slippery trails for a day!) and we arrived with the first glimmer of dawn and the beginning of the show as the males began their cacophony. We had some outstanding views of five or more males and two or three females at fairly close range, the males leaping about fanning their regalia at the demure hens, even indulging in some tumbling display flights. This sealed the whole Labi Labi adventure as being well worth the mud and the rain, and this birds position as overall winner as 'Bird-of–the-trip'. Endemic to the North Moluccas. TIMALIIDAE Sulawesi Babbler Trichastoma celebense: We found vocal birds (subspecies finschi) at Karaenta, but had to wait until Lore Lindu before we had a good look at some, although birds were mostly silent there. We met him again at Toraut and Tambun, (subspecies celebense) The birds at Lore Lindu are either the latter form or rufofuscum which is intermediate between the two. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Malia Malia grata: Seen on most mornings at Lore Lindu along the top road, although only in the first hour of the day when their Laughingthrush-like sounds caught our attention. A curious bird that we had some great looks at, as they bashed around with mixed bird flocks. Endemic to Sulawesi. TURDIDAE Great Shortwing Heinrichia calligyna: Another speciality of the montane forest of Lore Lindu, we had to put a lot of work in to actually see one and even then we never achieved 100% satisfaction. With no birds heard singing, we managed to kick-start a couple, one of which came around us in a big circle as we teetered on a forest slope, offering occasional glimpses if you happened to be standing in the right place! This species is named after Heinrich, a German collector, who worked in the Moluccas and Sulawesi between 1930 and 1932. Endemic to Sulawesi. Pied Chat (P Bush-chat) Saxicola caprata: A few sightings in open country. PARDALOTIDAE Flyeater (Golden-bellied Gerygone) Gerygone sulphurea: Often heard and seen on a couple of occasions at Lore Lindu, another seen by the paddies near Palu, and a couple more by our Manado hotel were in the more familiar habitat of mangroves. The form concerned, flaveola, is endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and sings slightly differently to birds from elsewhere in Asia. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-backed Bush-Warbler Bradypterus castaneus: We had a good look at one on our first morning at Lore Lindu, with many others heard there. Endemic to Sulawesi and the South Moluccas. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus (H): Heard singing in the mangroves by Ujung Pandang fishponds. The endemic subspecies concerned is celebensis. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: Common by voice, with a few seen, at Lore Lindu. The Sulawesi form is quite distinctive and looks rather different to mainland forms, but still responded to a recording made in Northern Thailand. Sulawesi Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum: Several good views in Lore Lindu National Park, where they were notably silent except for on our last morning. Fairly drab and chunky- billed compared to typical Phylloscopus warblers. Endemic to Sulawesi. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Singles were seen by the paddies at Wausa and at Ujung Pandang fishponds. Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-capped C) Cisticola exilis: A couple of furtive songsters were seen in a grassy roadside area between Lore Lindu and Palu. MUSCICAPIDAE 'Sulawesi' Flycatcher Muscicapa sp. nov.: Once again this undescribed bird emerged for viewing, in our case near the Karaenta Forest where we had a good look at a lively vocal bird in some roadside trees. For those of you that are interested, the original note about this new species was in a 1999 issue of Forktail (a publication of the Oriental Bird Club). Island Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Quite a few were seen in the higher forests at Lore Lindu. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: We found a pair beside the Anaso track at Lore Lindu, with others heard there. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: We found a small number in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu. Blue-fronted Flycatcher Cyornis hoevelli: Some fine looks at this most un-cyornis-like flycatcher (more reminiscent of a Redstart or Rock Thrush!) in the higher forests at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Sulawesi Blue Flycatcher Cyornis omissus: A pair were found along the roadside near Wausa, hiding in the shadows. This form is often lumped in Mangrove Blue Flycatcher C. rufigastra. MONARCHIDAE Pale Blue Monarch Hypothymis puella: A couple were found at low altitudes in the Karaenta Forest and then again at Dumoga Bone. Often lumped in Black-naped Monarch. White-naped Monarch Monarcha pileatus: A great look at a pair of these really attractive birds along the logging track on our last morning on Halmahera. Endemic to the North Moluccas and east Lesser Sundas.. Spectacled Monarch Monarcha trivirgatus: A total of five were seen on Halmahera, the best views being of a pair on our last morning. Slaty Flycatcher (S Monarch) Myiagra galeata: Seen on a number of occasions on Halmahera, with a good look at a pair that came out on roadside wires. A fairly common Moluccan endemic that is easily located by its characteristic song. Shining Monarch (S Flycatcher) Piezorhynchus alecto: A female was seen briefly on the logging track on Halmahera, and then a male posed briefly in the undergrowth near Sidangoli. RHIPIDURIDAE Willie Wagtail (White-browed Fantail) Rhipidura leucophrys: Notably common on Halmahera, with several examples of their curious cup-like nests seen in the most exposed places. A sign of our closer proximity to Australasia! Rusty-bellied Fantail Rhipidura teysmanni: An attractive and fairly common Sulawesi region endemic that we encountered regularly at Lore Lindu. PETROICIDAE Citrine Flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea: An attractive addition to the birds seen at Lore Lindu where we saw it regularly. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Yellow-flanked Whistler Hylocitrea bonensis: Just one of these Sulawesi endemics was seen briefly on our first morning at Lore Lindu. Yellow-vented Whistler (Sulphur-bellied W) Pachycephala sulfuriventer: One of the commonest (or most visible) birds in the montane forest at Lore Lindu, with a range of vocalisations heard. Endemic to Sulawesi. Maroon-backed Whistler Coracornis raveni: Thomas found a male on the Anaso track, and then we all saw a female there on our last visit. Endemic to Sulawesi. Common Golden Whistler Pachycephala pectoralis: Often heard on Halmahera, with three sightings in all of this mostly skulking bird. The distinctive form concerned, mentalis, is endemic to the north Moluccas, and differs from most races by showing an incomplete black breast band. Drab Whistler Pachycephala griseonota: Easy for one of these to slip by unnoticed, we finally located one near Sidangoli. A well-named bird! Endemic to Sula and the Moluccas. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Seen often throughout the trip, on both islands and in a range of altitudes. Ivory-backed Wood Swallow Artamus monachus: A lovely bird that was much enjoyed near Wausa, where we found an open nest with two fledglings visible, and close-by we watched six or more birds on a branch all huddled up together in one bundle of cuteness! Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. STURNIDAE Moluccan Starling Aplonis mysolensis: Seen several times on Halmahera where we could see the dark eye and large bill which separates it from Metallic Starling. Short-tailed Starling Aplonis minor: Seen on a couple of occasions around the village at Wausa. Metallic Starling Aplonis metallica: The common, noisy, and piercingly red-eyed starling on Halmahera. Sulawesi Crested Myna Basilornis celebensis: We had some great looks at up to five of these beauties in the lower forests of Lore Lindu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. White-necked Myna Streptocitta albicollis: An exotic looking bird that we saw first at the Karaenta Forest and then not again until we reached Dumoga Bone, where several were visible around the clearing at Tambun. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Fiery-browed Starling (F-b Myna) Enodes erythrophris: Pleasingly common in the higher altitude forest at Lore Lindu, yet I don't think we ever tired of looking at them, such is their beauty! Endemic to Sulawesi. Grosbeak Starling (Finch-billed Myna) Scissirostrum dubium: Our first were six birds posing in a bush at Wausa alongside Short-tailed Starlings, and then we saw much bigger numbers around Dumoga Bone. The lovely waxy red tips to the feathers on the rump and huge yellow bill make this a most attractive starling (just like the previous three in fact!) Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. MELIPHAGIDAE Lesser Sulawesi Honeyeater (L Streaked H) Myza celebensis: We found a few at Lore Lindu, at lower altitudes than the next species. Endemic to Sulawesi. Greater Sulawesi Honeyeater (G Streaked H) Myza sarasinorum: We eventually found this fellow, after struggling with a few skulking calling birds, only up on the Anaso track at Lore Lindu, where we all had some good views eventually. Quite a bit bigger than the preceding species, more richly-coloured and showing a distinctive whitish area of bare skin around the eye. Endemic to Sulawesi. White-streaked Friarbird Melitograis gilolensis: We had some great views of some of these on Halmahera. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Sulawesi Myzomela Myzomela sanguinolenta: Several of these were seen in the higher forests of Lore Lindu, a little sparkle of scarlet in the mass of green. This endemic form is often lumped in Scarlet Honeyeater M. chloroptera. NECTARINIIDAE Brown-throated Sunbird (Plain-t S) Anthreptes malacensis: Four were seen at the Karaenta forest, plus a single at Tambun. Black Sunbird Nectarinia aspasia: We only saw these splendid fellows on Halmahera where they were pleasingly common. Olive-backed Sunbird (Yellow-bellied S) Nectarinia jugularis: An 'old friend', seen often. Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja: A poor view of one near Wausa was all that we managed. DICAEIDAE Yellow-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum: Seen well at the Karaenta forest, and a couple of times more in Lore Lindu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. Crimson-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni: Unfortunately this slipped away from most of us, with just one seen briefly at Lore Lindu. Endemic to Sulawesi. Flame-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrothorax: We eventually saw a couple on Halmahera, conveniently perching on roadside wires. Endemic to the Moluccas. Grey-sided Flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum: Seen well on several occasions, most numerous near Wausa. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion. ZOSTEROPIDAE Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Fairly common in the higher parts of Lore Lindu. Lemon-bellied White-eye (Moluccan W-e) Zosterops chloris: A few seen along forest edge and regrowth areas, at Karaenta and around Lore Lindu. Black-ringed White-eye Zosterops anomalus: Mission accomplished at Karaenta forest, where we found many of these singing in the early morning. It took a little while to get a good view though! Endemic to south Sulawesi. Cream-throated White-eye Zosterops atriceps: Some fine views eventually of this fellow on Halmahera. Endemic to the North Moluccas. Black-fronted White-eye Zosterops atrifrons: Quite a few seen at Lore Lindu, particularly on our first morning there. Streak-headed Dark-eye (Streaky-h White-eye) Lophozosterops squamiceps: Not immediately obvious as a White-eye, we saw several at Lore Lindu before realising what they were! Endemic to Sulawesi. PASSERIDAE Tree Sparrow (Eurasian T S) Passer montanus: The common sparrow, present in all open and built up areas. ESTRILDIDAE Javan Munia Lonchura leucogastroides: At least three seen from the departure lounge window at Jakarta airport. Black-faced Munia (Moluccan M) Lonchura molucca: Our first were seen between Lore Lindu and Palu, then more were found on Halmahera and around Dumoga Bone. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Just two were seen between Lore Lindu and Palu. Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca: Some sizable flocks were found around the various paddies we visited on Sulawesi, most memorably at Wausa. Pale-headed Munia Lonchura pallida: We found several of these distinctive Munias in paddies close to Palu. Endemic to the Sulawesi subregion and Lesser Sundas. FRINGILLIDAE Mountain Serin (Indonesian S) Serinus estherae: Just a couple of brief sightings and flight views in the higher reaches of Lore Lindu MAMMALS Bear Cuscus Ailurops ursinus: A great view of two of these exotic sloth-like animals, complete with a naked prehensile tail-tip, high in a big tree at Lore Lindu. Northern Dwarf Squirrel Prosciurillus murinus: With a fair amount of presumption over the identity of these due to the lack of a mammal guide, we saw several of these at Lore Lindu. Sulawesi Giant Squirrel (Red-bellied S) Rubrisciurus rubriventer: With the same caveat as for the above, we found a couple of these at Lore Lindu. Tonkean Macaque Macaca tonkeana: We had a good look at a family group of ten or more near Wausa. Spinner Dolphin Stenella longirostris: We ran into a large group of 20 fairly close to Tobelo on our return from Labi Labi. |
