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13 APRIL - 2 MAY 2005 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: BOB and KATIE HIGBIE, ANGE and ROY PATTISON. Each Birdquest tour to Bhutan just gets better and better, and this year’s tour was just awesome in the quality and quantity of birds seen! We saw six Himalayan Monal, 15 Blood Pheasant, four male Satyr Tragopans (three of them on the road!) and 21 Kalij Pheasants of two races. We found seven species of Wren Babbler, including Bar-winged, Wedge-billed and Long-billed, five species of Scimitar Babbler, six species of Parrotbills, Golden-breasted and Yellow-throated Fulvettas, Long-billed, Plain-backed and Long-tailed Thrushes, Beautiful Nuthatch, Ward’s Trogon, Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Black-tailed Crake, a vagrant Slaty-breasted Rail, Himalayan Wood Owl, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, many Rufous-necked and Great Hornbills, Solitary Snipe, Fire-capped Tits, Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler, Rufous-faced and Broad-billed Warblers, Gold-naped Finch and 13 species of Laughingthrush including some jaw-dropping views of the beautiful Spotted Laughingthrush. But the biggest surprise of all was the Gould’s Shortwing that jumped out of the undergrowth and sat sunning itself in front of us! Truly staggering! Once again our flight from Delhi was blessed with clear views of the world’s tallest peaks, so clear that one could see the Tibetan plateau beyond. We began our birding soon after arrival, with a Black-tailed Crake that sat calling at us from an open muddy pool, and then we found a confiding Ibisbill feeding along the Paro River. We also enjoyed our first Kalij Pheasants, Russet Sparrows, Rufous-breasted Accentor and Tickell’s Warblers, and found several Pintail Snipe. The following morning we visited the nearby Chele La, and as we ascended in the half-light we found Grey Nightjar, many Kalij Pheasants which were replaced by Blood Pheasants as we climbed higher, eventually reaching the upper reaches where stunning male Himalayan Monals galloped off the verge! Pausing for an al-fresco breakfast at 3700m, we were distracted by a singing Long-tailed Thrush, Orange-flanked Bush Robin, White-browed and Dark-rumped Rosefinches, Collared and White-winged Grosbeaks and a lone Alpine Accentor. On high pastures we found Rosy Pipits and Plain Mountain Finch, then descending a little we found Mrs Gould’s Sunbird, Lemon-rumped Warbler, Rufous-fronted and Grey Crested Tits and Rufous-vented Yuhinas. The scenic drive from Paro to Thimphu was enlivened by White-throated Needletails, a trio of Fire-capped Tits and our first Ultramarine Flycatcher. Our second morning found us on the Dochu La, where a male Satyr Tragopan came braying and rushing across a bamboo-cloaked slope, a pair of Great Parrotbills subjected us to a noisy inquisition, and a Hill Partridge buzzed over our heads. Further stops along the high road yielded Red-headed Bullfinch, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Whistler’s Warblers and Chestnut-tailed Minla, while lower down we found White-browed Shrike Babbler and Golden-spectacled Warbler. Heading onto the river habitat around Punakha we found more Ibisbills (with chicks), Ruddy Shelducks, Crested Kingfisher, White-browed Wagtails feeding young and a flock of Pale Martins. The nearby riverside forests produced a close view of a Spotted Wren Babbler, Yellow-vented Warblers, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Lesser and Greater Yellownapes, wonderfully Maroon Orioles, Slaty-backed Forktail, Black-chinned Yuhina, and a brief look at a Lesser Shortwing. We set off for a long drive, halted soon after by the sweet tunes of Slender-billed Orioles and a Lesser Coucal, and a delay at a checkpoint provided some good views of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers and Crested Buntings. Further birding en-route yielded our first Yellow-rumped Honeyguide attending the nests of Giant Rock Bee, another Spotted Wren Babbler that chose to sing in the open, Streaked Laughingthrushes, our first Spot-winged Grosbeaks, Spotted Forktail, Large Niltava and a pair of Long-billed Thrushes becoming one with a muddy stream bed. Clearing the high passes we found Brown Parrotbills and Black-faced Laughingthrush in roadside bamboo, and Himalayan Griffons cruised across the sky. Late afternoon surprises came in the form of a vagrant Slaty-breasted Rail stood in a quag at 3400m, and another male Satyr Tragopan on the roadside. Heading into the forests of the high road, we found Rufous-vented Tit, Rusty-flanked Treecreeper, Asian House Martins, Yellowish-bellied and Grey-sided Bush Warblers, Green Shrike Babblers and White-winged Grosbeak, and around high fields we saw a swirling flock of Snow Pigeons, Beautiful Rosefinches and Oriental Skylark. Descending onto the legendary Lingmethang Road, we had time to find Chestnut-bellied Tesia and our first Wren Babbler, the Scaly-breasted, before returning to our well-appointed camp. From the warmth of our camp fireside we saw a roding Eurasian Woodcock, and a vocal Himalayan Wood Owl circled the clearing, offering some illuminated flight views. Our first full day on the Lingmethang Road started coolly, gathering pace with a White-browed Shortwing, Broad-billed and Ashy-throated Warblers, and Darjeeling Woodpecker. Our focus on some vocal Scaly Laughingthrushes had to be abandoned when a little steel-grey and chestnut bird popped out of the tangled herbage at the foot of a roadside wall. ‘It’s a Gould’s Shortwing!’ It pottered about in the open for a short while before disappearing, leaving us to pick our jaws up off the floor! This little stunner is rarely seen away from its high-altitude breeding areas, where it favours scree slopes above the tree-line, and this bird was obviously on its way up. Well done everyone! We have just saved ourselves from an arduous trek! We returned to the Laughingthrushes and had a nice view of a pair, and a male Gold-naped Finch joined the fun, nibbling on seeds at close range. We couldn’t move far without being stopped by great birds - the Gould’s Shortwing re-emerged and sat preening in the sun, a Golden-breasted Fulvetta advanced to within inches of our feet and a flock of Black-throated Parrotbills casually buzzed about in the bamboo. The rain descended on us for the evening, so we drove back to camp, running into yet another male Satyr Tragopan on the roadside! Mmm…. There’s magic in them thar hills! We shifted camp to the lower levels, starting from the higher altitudes where we had a flight view of a Spotted Laughingthrush, more Spot-winged Grosbeaks and Red-headed Bullfinches, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrushes and Golden Bush Robin, and as we dropped through the middle elevations we found Rufous-bellied Niltavas, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher, Yellow-cheeked Tit, and Nepal House Martins busy at their roadside cliff colony. A pair of Black-headed Shrike Babblers acted furtively in a large tree, plus we found a pair of Little Forktails, Grey-bellied Tesia, a very co-operative Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Black-eared Shrike Babblers, Cutia, White-spectacled and Chestnut-crowned Warblers, and lower still we found Rusty-fronted Barwings, Yellow-throated Fulvettas, and a noisy flock of Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbills. On reaching our camp at dusk, a Hodgson’s Giant Flying Squirrel flew into the huge trees above our tents, and a Mountain Scops Owl kept up his beeping for most of the night, taunting us for failing to find him! Setting off to spend the day working these rich forests, we were halted by a cheery song coming from a roadside thicket - Wedge-billed Wren Babbler! The bird duly performed, singing his heart out from an exposed perch. It seems incredible to think that this bird was only recorded for the first time in Bhutan just five years ago! Rufous-necked Hornbills loafed in the great trees as we explored the highway, White-naped Yuhinas and White-gorgetted Flycatchers scuttled about and then we located one of the great prizes of this road - a pair of Ward’s Trogons! They behaved quite shyly, feeding happily below us among the chestnuts and maples, until they slid away from view into a deep valley. We found two more Yellow-rumped Honeyguides, Sapphire Flycatcher, Red-tailed Minlas and our first Scarlet Finch. Testing another elevation and a south-facing slope we found Brown-throated Treecreeper, Pale Blue Flycatcher, Striated Bulbuls, Black-faced Warblers and a Rufous-bellied Eagle, though a vocal Chestnut-breasted Partridge refused to play our game. Another morning, another Wren Babbler! We found a rare and delightful Long-billed Wren Babbler near our camp, viewed at close range as it raked through the leaf-litter with his most excellent protuberance. More new birds came in the form of an Asian Barred Owlet, Long-tailed Broadbill, Grey-winged Blackbird, Mountain Tailorbird, a trio of Coral-billed Scimitar Babblers and a pair of lively Rufous-throated Wren Babblers. Then the time came to depart these hallowed forests, but not before we had splendid looks at a Grey-sided Laughingthrush, a session interrupted by the loud clattering of hooves on the road as a startled Sumatran Serow appeared next to us before bolting down slope! Winding our back towards the high passes, we saw another Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, and a Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler singing its way to the higher elevations. A spotty Bar-winged Wren Babbler that glided in to inspect us was the highlight of the morning, before we ascended into the cloud-swathed high country. We startled a quintet of Blood Pheasants from the roadside, and then we surprised yet another male Satyr Tragopan as we rounded a corner in the fog. It remained in view for some minutes, even treating us to a rendition of its ‘baby’ call (that’s four males you’ve seen now, you lucky people!) A last stop and a leg-stretch before reaching Jakar yielded a male Orange-flanked Bush Robin, then a pair of Spotted Laughingthrushes came up to the road, one of them sat atop a bare bush and sang his heart out just yards from us! What an exquisite plumage this bird has, just too complex for the eyes to register so it was fortunate we were able to take get some superb photos! The early morning found us on the bamboo-rich Yutong La, where we found more Brown Parrotbills, White-browed Bush Robin and a splendid Solitary Snipe lurking in a mountain stream. We pressed on southwards towards the rich forests of Shemgang and our next camp, finding en-route many Blue-capped Rock Thrushes lining the road, Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, Blue-throated Barbet, Striated Yuhinas, Hodgson’s Hawk Cuckoo and a very friendly Black Eagle. We encountered our first troops of Golden Leaf Monkeys, scrambling off the roadsides on our approach. Our birding in the rich low altitude forests began with Common Green Magpie, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Drongo and Chestnut-winged Cuckoos, White-throated Bulbuls, Pin-tailed Green Pigeons and a flight of eleven Great Hornbills. Dodging rain showers and gaining altitude, we found Oriental Honey Buzzards, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, Orange-bellied Leafbirds, Sultan Tits, a flock of eyeball-searing Scarlet Finches, White-crested and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes and a lively gang of Grey-headed Parrotbills. We added Barred Cuckoo Dove and Blue-throated Flycatcher as we retreated towards camp, for a night of thunderstorms and rain, secure in our tents that stayed dry throughout. We persevered through the rain, and came out the other side to find a Beautiful Nuthatch chattering loudly from a great tree. Definitely harder to find this year, we enjoyed some rare views before it went on its merry way across the mountainsides. Still not without new birds to find, we saw White-browed Scimitar Babblers, a very confiding Long-tailed Broadbill, Grey-throated Babbler, Yellow-bellied Warbler, Striated Prinia, Little Pied Flycatcher, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Silver-eared Mesia, and in a particularly rich section of forest we found Rufous Woodpecker, White-browed Piculet, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Red-billed Leiothrix, glimpsed a Red-faced Liocichla and gorged ourselves on Coral-billed Scimitar Babblers. The skies cleared and Grey Nightjars hawked over the forest above our camp. So the time had come to commence the long journey homeward, starting at 700m with Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker and a lively Rufous-faced Warbler, then returning up the Mangdechu valley we found a perched Besra, Common Rosefinches, Spotted Forktail, an obliging White-tailed Robin, Streaked Laughingthrush and Black-throated Tit, and our last Wren Babbler in the form of a Pygmy, singing from a steep slope. A last mornings birding on the Pele La was busy with a hen Himalayan Monal, Himalayan Griffons, yet another Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Great and Fulvous Parrotbills, Plain-backed Thrush, Slaty-blue Flycatcher, Collared Grosbeaks and a female Rufous-bellied Woodpecker. Descending once more into the broad-leaved forest, we found a vocal Brown-throated Treecreeper, Ferruginous Flycatcher, and a pair of Slaty-backed Forktails attending a nest by our lunchstop. A truly staggering trip (surely the most productive ever!) and while each year provides different thrills, any visit to Bhutan will surely encounter genuine birding magic, provided by these enchanting forests. There is simply no other place like it! SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL) Species which were recorded only in Delhi are indicated by the symbol (I) PHASIANIDAE Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola: We saw one early on in the trip, flying across the Dochu La! Numerous others were only heard, but we did get close to one on the Sheltang La. Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis (H): Heard frequently at lower altitudes, although always rather distant. Chestnut-breasted Partridge Arborophila mandellii (H): Attempts to lure-in this fellow near our Yongkola camp were unsuccessful, with several very vocal birds staying put in thick cover. Blood Pheasant Ithaginis cruentus: Some great looks at ten on the Chele La on our first morning in Bhutan, then another five were seen on the ‘high road’ near the Thrumsing La. Satyr Tragopan Tragopan satyra: We were definitely spoiled for these on this trip! (That’s what I said after the last tour….. ) Our first male emerged noisily from the bamboo on the Dochu La and trotted past us, then we saw a further three males on the roadside! The first went off the verge near Jakar, then another emerged in the gloom of a rainy evening near Sengor, and the third was surprised in fog on the ‘high road’ near Ura in the early afternoon, staying long enough to climb back onto the road and start giving us its loud ‘baby’ call. Himalayan Monal Lophophorus impejanus: A great start to the tour with at least four males and a hen seen on the Chele La, followed by a lone female on the Pele La on our return journey. The sheer visual impact of the male’s psychedelic hues ensured its place as this group’s ‘Bird-of-the-trip’. Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelana: A huge tally of these on our trip, with a pair seen on our first afternoon near Paro, nine on the Chele La, five different singles along our way and five seen near Tingtibi brought the total to 21! The birds seen in the west were of the black-backed and whitish-breasted melanota race, and the Tingtibi birds had the black breasts and barred white backs of the lathami race. ANATIDAE Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: A handsome migrant flock of 8 on the river at Punakha. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope: A single female by the river near Thimphu. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: A female dozing alongside the above. INDICATORIDAE Yellow-rumped Honeyguide Indicator xanthonotus: Three of these scarce specialities seen on our tour, with our first by the Giant Rock Bee hives between Wangdi and Pele La, another attending the same on the Lingmethang Road, and a third near there in open forest. PICIDAE Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus (H): Unfortunately only heard, along the Mo Chu and near Shemgang. White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea: A single bird briefly joined a busy birdflock at 1350m near Shemgang. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopus macei: A single male seen from our camp at Tingtibi. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopus hyperythrus: The only one of the tour was a female seen on the Pele La on our last morning. Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopus cathpharius: Actually just two of these seen during our tour, with our first in the forest along the Mo Chu. Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopus darjellensis: Odd singles seen at higher altitudes, particularly below Sengor, although more often heard while being furtive. Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus: Great looks at three in all near Tingtibi, calling and feeding around rotund ant-nests in the trees. Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus: A fine view of one along the Mo Chu, then a couple more seen near Shemgang. Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: A couple of pairs encountered along the Mo Chu and on the Lingmethang Road. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus (H): A couple of calling birds in lower altitude forest near Shemgang. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: A very sneaky and uncooperative bird, with their maniacal cry heard often but fleeting views acquired only near Shemgang. MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Heard throughout, with birds often visible particularly in the Shemgang area. Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica (I): Several birds seen at Delhi Zoo on our way home. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Found at lower to middle altitudes, particularly visible in the Shemgang area. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: The lowest altitude barbet on our route in Bhutan, we had good looks at these near the river in the Shemgang area. BUCEROTIDAE Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: Some terrific views of these giants at Tingtibi, with eleven seen flying up the valley one morning, then at least four on another morning with two birds perched right by the road (to keep the local school children interested!) Rufous-necked Hornbill Aceros nipalensis: Some great looks at these along the Lingmethang Road with five or more in a day, then some further looks at them in the forests around Tingtibi. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: One seen around farms near Jakar, then Roy saw another along the Mangdechu valley. TROGONIDAE Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus (H): A calling bird that wouldn’t come out near Shemgang. Ward’s Trogon Harpactes wardi: We found a fairly shy pair along on the Lingmethang Road where they performed well for several minutes, allowing us to enjoy their full beauty. They kept their distance (most of the time!), and my guess is that they will become harder and harder to find with the increased ‘birder pressure’ along this road! HALCYONIDAE White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: A few singles seen at lower altitudes. CERYLIDAE Crested Kingfisher Ceryle lugubris: Two birds were seen very well, close to Punakha. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: One showed briefly at the lower end of the Lingmethang Road. CUCULIDAE Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus: A couple of birds were heard calling along the Mo Chu but couldn’t be lured, then we happened upon a pair near Tingtibi that showed themselves openly, just before the heavens opened! A summer visitor to Bhutan. Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: Heard throughout a broad altitude range, but only three actually seen. Very noisy nonetheless, calling ‘Darth Vader! Darth Vader!’ Common Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius (I): An immature bird dithered about inside a bush at Delhi Zoo. Hodgson’s Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx fugax: Several heard in the broad-leaved forests along the Mo Chu and the Lingmethang Road, then we saw one fairly well at 1150m near Shemgang. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus: Heard from both our Yongkola and Tingtibi camps, with a single female bird showing its rusty breast was seen below Tongsa on our way south. Eurasian Cuckoo (Common C) Cuculus canorus: This found its way onto our list on the first day, with a calling bird on a wire at Paro. We heard many calling along the Lingmethang and Shemgang Roads, with another seen near the Pele La. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus: Frequently heard and certainly the most visible Cuckoo, often seen in the broad-leaved evergreen forests. A hepatic female was photographed on the Lingmethang Road, at the time erroneously assigned to the following species. Lesser Cuckoo Cuculus poliocephalus (H): Heard around Yongkola and Tingtibi. A hepatic female photographed on the Lingmethang Road seems to fit Oriental Cuckoo rather than this species, due to the patchy and barred crown markings. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus (H): A calling bird giving its typical song was heard along the Mangdechu near Shemgang. Asian Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx maculatus: A few males seen on two days near Shemgang, both perched and also going overhead uttering their sneezing flight call. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Very vocal around our Tingtibi camp, an accompaniment to our slumber with the thunder! We saw two or three in the area by day. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it ‘Square-tailed’ Drongo Cuckoo S. lugubris as distinct from the ‘Fork-tailed’ Drongo Cuckoo S. dicruroides of Peninsula India and Sri Lanka. Asian Koel (Common Koel) Eudynamys scolopacea (I) : A couple of males seen at Delhi Zoo. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalenis: An obliging bird perched up at the roadside near Punakha one morning. PSITTACIDAE Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri (I): Common in Delhi. APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia brevirostris: Fairly numerous along the Lingmethang Road. White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacuta: We had some good views of fifty near to Thimphu, then more near Punakha and Shemgang. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: A surprise write-in, with three birds flying over Tingtibi camp. Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific S) Apus pacificus: Often seen screaming around the roadside cliffs where they nest. STRIGIDAE Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus (H): Two birds calling loudly around our Yongkola campsite, but true to form the nearer bird remained high in an impenetrable tree and was impossible to see! Collared Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena (H): Heard calling briefly one evening near our Tingtibi camp. Himalayan Wood Owl Strix nivicola: The first sighting ever on this tour, we had some (partly illuminated) flight views of a vocal bird at our Sengor campsite. This form is split from Tawny Owl S. aluco in the new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H): Occasionally heard in the middle altitude forests. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: A total of four seen, our first was near our Yongkola camp. CAPRIMULGIDAE Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus: Heard often, with our first seen en-route to the Chele La, another near Thimphu, two hawking over the forest from our Tingtibi camp and a further three coming off the road between Thimphu and Paro airport. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia: Available! Snow Pigeon Columba leuconota: Some fifty were seen in a seemingly aimless flock, wheeling over the fields at Ura. Speckled Woodpigeon Columba hodgsonii: A flock of fifteen gave the briefest of glimpses between Wangdi and the Pele La. Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Pleasingly numerous and recorded almost every day. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis (I): Available in Delhi. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Seen around cultivation at lower altitudes. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto (I): A few seen around Delhi Zoo. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: Not uncommon around Tingtibi, with up to seven seen in the rain there. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: Odd singles were seen on the roadsides near Tingtibi in the early morning. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera (I): Some good views of these handsome pigeons in Delhi. Pin-tailed Pigeon Treron apicauda: At least three birds were seen on two dates near Tingtibi, one of the best-looking of all this group. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura: We found six or more in the forests between Shemgang and Tingtibi. RALLIDAE Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus: One of the greatest surprises of the tour, when we saw one feeding in a roadside bog, at 3400m on the Yutong La! A hurried stop ensued, the bird continuing to skulk about but in plain view! This is the second (live) record for the country. This seems to be a real vagrant from its nearest range in the Brahmaputra valley to the south where they are supposedly resident, rather than a scarce migrant going to somewhere further north. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus (I): Seen in Delhi Zoo. Black-tailed Crake Porzana bicolor: A superb start to our tour, with one of these fellows calling from an open patch in his home bog near Paro, marching up and down as we hid inside our bus. SCOLOPACIDAE Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola: A roding bird buzzed our Sengor campsite a number of times. Solitary Snipe Gallinago solitaria: We surprised one at the roadside near the Yutong La, which crouched in the open and allowed some terrific views before it scuttled off up a forest stream. Although this bird looks a little different to many photos of this species on the internet, structurally it is the same and shows the white spotting on the tertials and the very plain-looking uppertail coverts, as well as typical bare parts coloration with bright legs, dark cutting edge of the bill and a strong eye-ring. Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: At least four were put up from swampy patches near Paro, with one standing long enough for us to get some good looks. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: A few were seen in the Paro and Mo Chu valleys. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos (NL): Roy saw a couple of singles in the Paro valley. CHARADRIIDAE Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii: Increased disturbance in the Paro valley meant we struggled to find our first one there, then we had more encounters with pairs along the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers, including one that had two fluffy chicks. Also heard pre-dawn from our Jakar hotel. River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii: Seen in the river valleys of Paro, Thimphu and the Po and Mo Chu. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus (I): Only seen in Delhi Zoo, with fully-winged birds nesting in the Nilgai enclosure. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey Buzzard (Crested H-B) Pernis ptilorhyncus: At least three seen loafing about on the Shemgang Road, to the consternation of the small birds! Seen on three days there. Black Kite Milvus migrans (I): All the many Kites we saw in Delhi were of the resident govinda race. Himalayan Griffon (H G Vulture) Gyps himalayensis: We saw up to seven on our first crossing of the Pele La, then we had better views of two on our return. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela: A total of four seen along our route, including a splendid perched individual. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: One cruised over us along the Mo Chu valley.. Besra Accipiter virgatus: A rather discreet forest species, we had a good look at one perched up for several minutes near Shemgang. Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Several examples seen along our way, all but one at high altitudes. These would be of the resident melaschistos race. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus: Several birds seen in open country at higher elevations, showing plumage features similar to Upland Buzzard B. hemiliasus though appeared only a little bigger than the pursuing Large-billed Crows. This has been split from Common Buzzard B. buteo in the new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: A good trip for these with a total of eight recorded, some of which thrilled us with their close-range flying at stall speeds around the forest trees. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: A single immature shot along a valley northwards near Shemgang. Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: The only ones of the tour were seen soaring over the Lingmethang Road and along the Mangdechu below Tongsa. Mountain Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: The most visible large raptor soaring over the forests, plus one or two that were seen perched, showing off their silly crests. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Not uncommon in open country. PHALACROCORACIDAE Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: A few were seen along the Thimphu, Po and Mo Chu rivers. ARDEIDAE Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii (I): Seen at Delhi Zoo. EURYLAIMIDAE Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: A first encounter with a furtive threesome near Yongkola, then ‘full Broadbill satisfaction’ was acquired near Shemgang, with a confiding bird watched at length as it browsed the forest. IRENIDAE Orange-bellied Leafbird Chloropsis hardwickii: Numerous and vocal around Tingtibi. LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Odd singles of the black-headed tricolor form were seen around lower altitude cultivation. Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: Frequently encountered over a very wide altitudinal range, though breeding in the higher altitudes. CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: A single was seen between Wangdi and the Pele La, plus another was seen by Roy en-route to Jakar. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Cissa flavirostris: Regularly seen, particularly at higher altitudes and often while driving! Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis: A single was seen well near our Tingtibi camp, plus another two were seen briefly in the forest higher up. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Not uncommon along the Mo Chu and in the Shemgang area. Black-billed Magpie (Common M) Pica pica: The birds in Bhutan (bottanensis race) are the only population within the subcontinent this side of Pakistan, although they range across Tibet and China. We found them commonly around Bumthang and Ura, though our first was near the Pele La. Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes: Many seen at higher altitudes, these birds are of the macella race which lacks spots on the belly and scapulars. Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax: Small flocks were encountered in open country at higher altitudes, with some larger groups in the Paro valley. House Crow Corvus splendens (I): Only seen in Delhi. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: The almost-human companions to any picnic, seen throughout Bhutan though most visible at higher altitudes. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Large-billed Crow C. [macrorhynchos] japonensis as distinct from the Indian Jungle Crow C. [macrorhynchos] culminatus of Peninsula India and the Eastern Jungle Crow C. [macrorhynchos] levaillantii of lowland NE India to SE Asia. Slender-billed Oriole Oriolus tenuirostris: At least two were seen in their favoured pine habitat near Punakha, with a couple more heard there. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Frequently seen in the warmer broad-leaved forests, making some exquisite sounds! Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina melaschistos: Often encountered along our route, also favouring the warmer broad-leaved forests. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: A few were seen along the way until we reached the Shemgang area where we found several, including a pair engaged in excited courtship feeding. Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: The highest altitude Minivet. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris: Only seen on three dates, along the Lingmethang Road. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Normally occupying the lowest altitude forests, we saw them along the Mo Chu and around Tingtibi. Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus picatus: A handful seen in the lower altitude forests at Tingtibi. Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: Quite a few seen, in the higher elevation forests and around the high passes. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: A few found in mid-elevation forest, particularly along the Lingmethang Road. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Commonly encountered in a variety of elevations. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: A few seen in the lower elevation forest around Tingtibi. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Just three seen, along the Shemgang Road. Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested D) Dicrurus hottentotus: Seen along the Mo Chu then not again till we saw two near Tingtibi. CINCLIDAE Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii: Seen well around Paro and on the rivers at Punakha. MUSCICAPIDAE Blue-capped Rock Thrush Monticola cinclorhynchus: A very numerous roadside bird at the lower altitudes of Tingtibi and the Mangdechu valley, a summer visitor that winters in southern India. Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris: Regularly seen at higher altitudes, with songsters usually perching on prominent snags along the road. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: A single female seen along the Mangdechu valley. Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Seen every day! Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima: A pair of these shy forest-dwelling thrushes gave us a brief look on the Dochu La, then we had a more prolonged view of one feeding on the ground on the Pele La. Bob also saw one by our Sengor camp. Long-tailed Thrush Zoothera dixoni: A good look at a treetop songster on the Chele La, with another there seen less well. Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma (H): One sang close to our tents at Yongkola in the pre-dawn gloom. Long-billed Thrush Zoothera monticola: A chance stop en-route to the Pele La (to look for a calling Forktail that turned out to be squealing brakes!) produced prolonged views of a pair in a side stream, looking like animated lumps of mud! Only the second time this has been seen on this tour. White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus: Often seen around clearings at higher elevations. Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: A fine singing male was seen on the Lingmethang Road, followed by a good look at a pair. Gould’s Shortwing Brachypteryx stellata: A truly staggering find by Bob, when one emerged at the foot of a retaining wall just a few feet from us, alongside the Lingmethang Road at 2450m. It revealed itself twice, basking in the sun’s warmth and the adulation of the awestruck observers, showing off his fine markings and rusty bonnet. Perhaps only the second record in Bhutan away from its breeding altitudes, which are above the treeline and in boulder scree. It was obviously a bird that wintered here or lower down, and was due to ascend. A lifer for all of us! Lesser Shortwing Brachypteryx leucophrys: Heard a few times in lower and mid-elevation forest, our only sighting was of one that popped up (for some of us) along the Mo Chu. And we have the insect bites to prove it! White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana: Odd ones heard at higher altitudes, with a reasonably good look at a singing male near our Sengor camp. Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: Seen fairly often, with our first few showing well along the Mo Chu.
Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata: Common at higher elevations. White-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger: Heard often along the Shemgang and Lingmethang Roads, with a couple of birds seen although never well. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra (H): A singing bird along the Lingmethang Road never showed itself. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Several males seen along the Shemgang and Lingmethang Roads. Ultramarine Flycatcher Ficedula superciliaris: Several males seen along our route, with our first in roadside trees near Thimphu. Slaty-blue Flycatcher Ficedula tricolor: Our first was a roadside female near Sengor, then we saw a male in song on our last morning on the Pele La. Sapphire Flycatcher Ficedula sapphira: At least three males were seen along the Lingmethang Road, all high in the tops of big trees but calling continually. Verditer Flycatcher Ficedula thalassina: A common sight throughout the forests. Large Niltava Niltava grandis: A male was seen at the roadside between Wangdi and the Pele La, but several others songsters were unusually furtive. Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae: Some great views of both sexes along the Mo Chu and then again at the lower altitudes in the Shemgang area. Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Several of these striking birds were seen in mid-elevation forest on the Lingmethang Road, and again as we returned towards Wangdi. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor: We saw our first male in song on the Lingmethang Road, then they were heard commonly in the Shemgang area with a couple more seen. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: Several nice examples seen around Tingtibi, including a very sweet songster at the roadside. Pygmy Blue Flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni: A pair showed well along the Lingmethang Road, plus several others were heard. Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Odd birds were seen along the Lingmethang and Shemgang Roads. Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea (H): A male sang from a thicket on our way between Wangdi and the Pele La, but couldn’t be lured into view. A summer visitor, wintering south to Southern India and Sri Lanka. Orange-flanked Bush Robin (Red-flanked Bluetail) Tarsiger cyanurus: We saw several females high on the Chele La, and then a stunning male popped out on the Ura-Sheltang La. This is split into two in the new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, into Northern Red-flanked Bush Robin T. cyanurus, and Himalayan Red-flanked Bush Robin T. rufilatus, to which our birds refer to. They differ morphologically and vocally. Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus: Always a real sneak, our only encounters were with two females near Sengor. White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus: We found a singing male in the bamboo on the Yutong La, plus we heard another on the Dochu La. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Occasionally seen around villages and cultivation at lower altitudes. Hodgson’s Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni: A single female near Paro airport was the only bird of the trip. Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: Our best sightings were of several males on the Chele La, plus odd females found at high altitude. White-capped Water-Redstart (River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Common throughout, always near streams and rivers. Plumbeous Water Redstart (P Redstart) Rhyacornis fuliginosus: As widespread as the above, though more unobtrusive. White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucurum: We were taunted by well-hidden songsters along the Lingmethang and Shemgang Roads, then we had full satisfaction with a male that circled us in the understorey, en-route from Shemgang to Tongsa. Blue-fronted Robin Cinclidium frontale (H): Such a beautiful song, so hard to see! Like the above, we were thwarted on several occasions along the Lingmethang Road, with not even a glimpse! Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: A pair of these dainty delights were seen beneath a waterfall on the Lingmethang Road. Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus: We found a pair on a side stream along the Mo Chu, then we found another pair attending a riverside nest between the Pele La and Wangdi, to accompany our leisurely al-fresco lunch. Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus: A pair were seen at the roadside between Wangdi and the Pele La, shooting off into the forest and calling repeatedly, and then we found one feeding in a roadside channel near Shemgang. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Odd birds seen in open country along our route. Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea: Often seen around cultivation and scrappy habitat. STURNIDAE Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus: A flock of 15 were seen along the Mo Chu, then another nine near Punakha. Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra (I): Several seen in Delhi Zoo. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Found at lower elevations near habitation. Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus (I): Quite a few seen in Delhi, even some just outside the arrivals door at the airport! SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: A couple were seen along the Mo Chu, then we saw several more at lower altitudes near Tingtibi. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch S. cinnamoventris as distinct from the Indian Nuthatch S. castanea of Peninsula India. White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Not uncommon in mid-altitude broad-leaved forest. Beautiful Nuthatch Sitta formosa: A long and hard job to find it this year, but our perseverance in the rain paid off. It wasn’t till our third morning at Shemgang that the loud chattering call heralded this birds arrival, and we had some good views as it scuttled around the mossy branches of the great forest trees. Another was seen in flight from the bus the following day, but it kept going and going….. CERTHIIDAE Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris (H): Heard distantly on the Ura-Sheltang La. Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis: Our first was seen poorly on the Dochu La, then we had a good look at one near the Thrumsing La. Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor: A single bird showed poorly near our Yongkola camp, then we met a feisty songster below the Pele La that gave us a good show. PARIDAE Fire-capped Tit Cephalopyrus flammiceps: An early surprise, with three watched feeding around catkins in a deciduous plot by the road near Thimphu, then we saw another along the Mo Chu. Rufous-vented Tit Parus rubidiventris: Only found in the fir forests on the Ura-Sheltang and the Pele Las. Coal Tit Parus ater: Frequently found in the highest coniferous forests, and unlike the European birds, these have crests. Grey-crested Tit Parus dichrous: Another high-altitude forest tit, seen well on the Chele La and Yutong La. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: The default Tit in Bhutan. Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus: Regularly encountered in the warm broad-leaved forests along the Lingmethang Road, with several more seen near Shemgang. Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: Several seen at mid to high altitude, often responding to our ‘Digital Collared Owlet’! Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea: Plenty of these were seen in the Shemgang area; noisy, obvious and stunning! AEGITHALIDAE Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus: With possibly one of the worst bird-names, we found just one on the tour, near Tongsa. Rufous-fronted Tit Aegithalos iouschistos: We had several encounters with these attractive tits in various high-altitude forests between the Chele La and Sengor. HIRUNDINIDAE Pale Martin Riparia diluta: A good look at half-a-dozen of these over the river at Punakha clinched the identification of this under-recorded bird. They showed a dirty brown wash on the whitish throat, a diffuse (‘airbrushed’) breast band, and bleached looking upperparts. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: A handful seen along the rivers near Punakha. Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus: A lively flock were seen near Ura, then another group was seen near Shemgang. Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis: Some great activity around their breeding colonies on the Lingmethang Road, where birds were chattering away and nest-building, plus we saw more flocks in the Tongsa area. PYCNONOTIDAE Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus: A handsome member of the family, seen along the Lingmethang Road and in good numbers near Shemgang. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus (NL): Bob saw one at Tingtibi. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus (I): Seen in Delhi Zoo, keeping a watchful eye on a Common Hawk Cuckoo. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Common around cultivation and scruffy habitats at lower altitudes. White-throated Bulbul Alophoixus flaveolus: This noisy bulbul was found around Tingtibi, where we saw several. Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: A few of these handsome birds were seen around Tingtibi. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii: A few encountered in the lower-middle altitude forests near Shemgang and along the Mo Chu. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Very common around Tingtibi and Shemgang, and in many low altitude ‘edge’ habitats. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Himalayan Black Bulbul H. leucocephalus as distinct from the Square-tailed Black Bulbul H. ganeesa of SW India and Sri Lanka. CISTICOLIDAE Striated Prinia Prinia criniger: A couple seen near Shemgang in typical cleared or cultivated habitat. Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis: A single was seen along the Lingmethang Road, then we had some great views of some showing off their black throats at the roadside near Shemgang. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this nominate Himalayan form as Black-throated Prinia P. atrogularis, and the form that occurs in South-east Asia and Indonesia is split as Hill Prinia P. superciliaris. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa: Just a few found in the lower altitude forests along our route. SYLVIIDAE Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: At least three of these little skulkers were seen on the Lingmethang Road, though many more were heard at the higher altitudes. Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea (H): Heard along the Mo Chu (leaves seen moving!), heard often along the Lingmethang Road, and again near Shemgang, but try as we might we just couldn’t lure one into view! Oh well, there were plenty of other things to look at! Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer: Numerous birds were heard but we had only one sighting, of a vocal fellow on the Lingmethang Road. Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes: A great look at a feisty songster on the Lingmethang Road, with many more heard along our route. Another was seen near Tongsa. Chestnut-crowned Bush Warbler Cettia major: Another nice surprise, with a singing bird at 2350m on the Lingmethang Road obliging us with a nice view. This is the first time it has been recorded on this tour, it winters in the foothill grasslands and breeds at high altitude. Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler Cettia acanthizoides: Two were seen well on one morning in the high country near Ura, and others were heard on the bamboo-clad high passes. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this Himalayan form as Hume’s Bush Warbler C. brunnescens as distinct from the Chinese form, which retains the name Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler C. acanthizoides and has a different song. Grey-sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifrons: By far the most visible of this genus, with multiple sightings at higher altitudes including a memorable songster on the Yutong La. Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum (I): A poor view of a couple in Delhi Zoo. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cucullatus: We managed to coax this fellow from the bamboo on the Lingmethang Road. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: A singing bird was seen by the roadside near Shemgang, and then again in the car park at Delhi airport. Tickell’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis: Odd birds encountered along our route, with our first in bushes in the Paro valley. Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher: A few of these unassuming warblers seen in high country on the Chele La, near Ura and on the Yutong La. Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis: Some half-a-dozen seen at the Sengor end of the Lingmethang Road. Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus: Only seen high up on the passes, on the Chele La and between Jakar and Sengor. Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris: Heard frequently in all the higher-altitude forests, and we saw some on the Yutong La and along the Mo Chu, having arrived in force on their breeding grounds from their winter range in southern India. Blyth’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: The commonest warbler throughout the middle and higher elevation forests. Yellow-vented Warbler Phylloscopus cantator: A rather smart speciality of Bhutan and adjacent territories, we found them first along the Mo Chu and then again at the lower altitudes of the Tingtibi area. Golden-spectacled Warbler Seicercus burkii: The original ‘Golden-spectacled’ Warbler has now been split six ways; Plain-tailed S. soror, Grey-crowned S. tephrocephalus, Omei S. omeiensis, Bianchi’s S. valentini, Whistler’s S. whistleri and Golden-spectacled Warbler S. burkii, the westernmost one retaining the original name. Fortunately, only two of these occur on this tour, this taxon (‘burkii’) is quite readily identifiable, having strong black coronal bands right down to the bill, less of a wing-bar and different calls and song. We found several in broad-leaved forest between 1500m and 2500m. Whistler’s Warbler Seicercus whistleri: This one is identified by lack of black coronal bands on the forehead, a bold wing-bar and a simple song. It was quite numerous at the higher altitudes, on the Dochu and Yutong Las, and between Jakar and the higher end of the Lingmethang Road. Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistus: Frequent in the lower elevation forests. White-spectacled Warbler Seicercus affinis: We encountered a few at typical altitudes in bamboo understorey on the Lingmethang Road, singing sweetly but a little elusive. Grey-cheeked Warbler Seicercus poliogenys: Often tricky to separate from the above species, we found them to be more numerous, and at lower sltitudes. Seen on the Lingmethang and Shemgang Roads. Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Several encountered in mid-elevation broad-leaved forests, often with bird-flocks. Broad-billed Warbler Tickellia hodgsoni: A good close encounter along the Lingmethang Road with this bamboo-loving regional speciality, at a higher altitude than previously recorded (2850m), however many were heard further down the road. Rufous-faced Warbler Abroscopus albogularis: A great close view of an unconcerned songster at Tingtibi, one of four heard singing there. Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps: A few seen along the Lingmethang Road, rather tiny and always quick! Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris: One of these bamboo-lovers seen near our Tingtibi camp, with others heard there. White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis: Regularly found at higher altitudes where they formed noisy and readily visible flocks. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: Only seen in the Shemgang area where they were numerous, even confiding (unusual compared to their behaviour in SE Asia) and we all enjoyed good encounters with these ‘classic’ Laughingthrushes. Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger: We met these on a number of occasions at Tingtibi, a little furtive but overall we had nice looks at some rather vocal birds. Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Garrulax ruficollis: Good views of several of these around cultivation at lower altitudes in the Shemgang area, with our first encounter being a roadside flock that got split by our parked bus, enabling views from the windows on both sides! Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus: ‘Noisy old floppy-head’, he entertained us throughout the middle altitude forests. Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax rufogularis: Never easy, as an unco-operative bird along the Mo Chu demonstrated, however at Shemgang our first views were of one standing on top of roadside bollards in the middle of the day! We then went on to have some fine views of up to five birds associating with a busy bird-flock. Spotted Laughingthrush Garrulax ocellatus: An unco-operative songster on the Ura-Sheltang La whetted our appetite for this stunning bird, then we had a flight view of one near Sengor. On our return over the Ura-Sheltang La, a pair leapt out of the undergrowth and sang angrily at us, as we stood stunned by the complex and beautiful plumage of this Jay-like bird. They came as close as they dared before scuttling off into the forest. Wow! Grey-sided Laughingthrush Garrulax caerulatus: An effort to see this fellow on the Lingmethang Road was interrupted by rain and traffic, but the next morning we re-visited the spot and out they popped, good views interrupted this time by the surprise landing on the road next to us of a startled Serow! Streaked Laughingthrush Garrulax lineatus: We saw a pair scrambling up a rock face between Wangdi and the Pele La, then we had a much better view of one on a fencepost carrying food, opposite Shemgang Dzong. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Bhutan Laughingthrush Trochalopteron imbricatum, as distinct from Streaked Laughingthrush that occurs from Pakistan to West Bengal and is named Trochalopteron lineatum (note the new generic name). Blue-winged Laughingthrush Garrulax squamatus: Several were heard on the Lingmethang Road, and an effort to see a close calling bird resulted in little more than a tail-end view of it shooting away. A typical encounter! Scaly Laughingthrush Garrulax subunicolor: A good look at a pair that emerged from a thicket on the Lingmethang Road, plus some further fleeting views along the way. Black-faced Laughingthrush Garrulax affinis: Several seen well and many more heard, favouring the higher forests and bamboo. Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus: Often heard and a few seen, with our first one seen feeding at the roadside on the way to the Chele La. Red-faced Liocichla Liocichla phoenicea: Heard in the forest undergrowth near Shemgang, with some fleeting glimpses of two there. Another arch-skulker! Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys: Great looks at three that popped out of the hedge as we waited to pass the checkpoint at Wangdi, also seen at the lower altitudes in the Shemgang area and Bob and Katie saw one near our Punakha hotel. White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: Three birds staying close together were seen by the Shemgang Road (at the rather high elevation of 1650m), adding to a great morning’s birding after the rain had stopped!. Also seen by the road as we headed north, carrying nest material. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: A confiding pair seen on the Lingmethang Road, plus a few glimpses of others there. Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ferruginosus: We had some brief looks at three that crossed the Lingmethang Road in front of us, then we had full satisfaction with a quartet of birds that performed for us in the forest near Shemgang. Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Xiphirhynchus superciliaris: A search for this fellow in its usual haunts produced little more than a shadow, then at mid-elevation on the Lingmethang Road one leapt out of the bamboo and stunned us all with its curious form. We saw that same bird a few days later, and then another one came out to meet us at 3300m on the Pele La. Yet another stunning bird! Long-billed Wren Babbler Rimator malacoptilus: One of the real stars of the Lingmethang Road, and only discovered to be there three years ago! We were lured by a pair calling continually near our Yongkola camp, but only getting the briefest of glimpses we returned the following morning and found one of the birds to be very confiding, sorting through the leaf-litter with his most excellent bill! Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: Our only visual encounter was with one on our first evening at Sengor, several others were heard such as on the Pele La. Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: The commonest Wren Babbler, and the one that nearly eluded us! Many singing birds along the way were never close enough to engage, so a special effort was necessary on our penultimate evening, with some severe ‘downsloping’ in order to view this little mite singing from a tangled thicket. Rufous-throated Wren Babbler Spelaeornis caudatus: A tricky one to find this year along the Lingmethang Road, but we did however find a noisy pair that gave us a typically close encounter after much searching! Bar-winged Wren Babbler Spelaeornis troglodytoides: This spotty little fellow popped out for a good look at us before returning to whatever it was he was doing, on a steep slope on the Lingmethang Road. Thanks are due to Ben King for his tip on where to look, after all this handsome little fellow is a bit of a bogey-bird for me! Spotted Wren Babbler Spelaeornis formosus: A good year for these this year, with our first encounter with a noisy songster along the Mo Chu valley. This was bettered the following day when we had prolonged close views of one at the roadside. Incredibly, a total of 18 birds were heard singing along our route! Wedge-billed Wren Babbler Sphenocichla humei: The relative ease with which we saw this would have been unthinkable a few years ago, and indeed it was only recorded in Bhutan for the first time in 2000. A cheery song coming from a roadside thicket along the Lingmethang Road heralded some excellent views as one emerged into the open to sing at us, allowing plenty of time for us all to take in its rare form. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Sikkim Wedge-billed Wren Babbler S. humei as distinct from the Cachar Wedge-billed Wren Babbler S.roberti. Rufous-capped Babbler Stachyris ruficeps: Back down to earth with this demure babbler, we found many in the middle altitudes, often in the company of bird-flocks. Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea: A few encounters with this dapper fellow along the Lingmethang and Shemgang roads. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: Often heard in the Shemgang area, with several opportunities to view this furtive little bird. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus (I): Several lively gangs around Delhi Zoo. Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris: Yet another visually stunning bird in the forests below Shemgang, we managed to see four skulking about. Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea: A pair eventually emerged for us near Shemgang, (much to Bob’s relief!) following a brief and unsatisfactory showing on the Lingmethang Road. Cutia Cutia nipalensis: Some vocal and showy birds seen in the mossy broad-leaved forest on the Lingmethang Road, with others joining a low-level bird-flock in the drizzle there. Also heard on the Dochu La at 2800m. Black-headed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius rufiventer: A pair on the Lingmethang Road behaved furtively and never fully revealed themselves. White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: Just a couple of males seen at middle elevations, our first one below the Dochu La showed itself nicely. Green Shrike Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus: Several of these fat-headed fellows seen and heard in higher altitude forests. Black-eared Shrike Babbler Pteruthius melanotis: At least five different birds seen on the Lingmethang Road. Rusty-fronted Barwing Actinodura egertoni: We had several encounters with small flocks of these delightful babblers on the Lingmethang Road, plus three seen near Shemgang and six were seen along the Mo Chu by Ange. Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis: A good look at a pair on the Dochu La preceded further views of this restricted-range species near Sengor. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: Frequent encounters with this unassuming bird, particularly along the Lingmethang Road. Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula: A colourful addition to the higher forests. Red-tailed Minla Minla ignotincta: A couple of healthy sized flocks seen on the Lingmethang Road, with our first encounter being with a rather high one at 3200m. Golden-breasted Fulvetta Alcippe chrysotis: Our first was the best, a curious individual that advanced to within a feet of us, then we had a further appreciation of this gem with a flock of six in the Lingmethang Road bamboo. Yellow-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinerea: A speciality of the Eastern Himalayas, the roadside near Yongkola was noisy with these delightful babblers. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Remarkably few of these were seen this year, just three birds along our route. White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus: Restricted to the high passes and higher elevations, they were always the first to respond to the ‘Digital Owlet’. Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis: Common in the lower altitude forests such as around Tingtibi. Rufous Sibia Heterophasia capistrata: A ubiquitous feature of all the mid-elevation forests, and very numerous at times! Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps: Our first group was at the roadside below Shemgang, plus another flock was seen next to our Tingtibi camp. White-naped Yuhina Yuhina bakeri: Another Eastern Himalayan speciality, we had some great looks at these dapper birds on the Lingmethang and Shemgang roads. Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: The commonest Yuhina at mid-elevations. Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: Only encountered at higher elevations alongside the next species. Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: Always at higher elevations, our first appeared on the Chele La. Black-chinned Yuhina Yuhina nigrimenta: A good haul of these this year, with birds seen along the Mo Chu, and then quite commonly in the Shemgang area. White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca: Singles were seen along the Mo Chu and near Shemgang. Great Parrotbill Conostoma oemodium: Our first encounter was with a noisy pair jumping around our heads on the bamboo-rich Dochu La, then another pair on the Pele La gave us another good display. Brown Parrotbill Paradoxornis unicolor: A chance stop near the Pele La produced three birds calling from the bamboo, then we found two more on the Yutong La on our return leg. Grey-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis gularis: Just the third time this has been seen on the tour, we had a fine view of a flock of ten that emerged noisily from a steep section of forest near Shemgang. Fulvous Parrotbill Paradoxornis fulvifrons: One of the rarer members of the genus, it was Bob once again who spotted a flock of four in the Pele La bamboo. Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis: Our first thrilling encounter was courtesy of Benjor and his sharp eyes, with a flock of eight in the roadside bamboo on the Lingmethang Road. We went on to see them twice more, a joy indeed with such a jewel! Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill Paradoxornis ruficeps: Rather plentiful and visible on the Lingmethang Road this year, with about four different groups found, noisily chattering their way through the forest. ALAUDIDAE Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: Heard in the fields at Ura, then a couple of songsters were seen at Sengor. DICAEIDAE Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus: Our first was a good look at a female along the Mo Chu, then we found them more commonly around Shemgang. NECTARINIIDAE Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica (I): A couple at Delhi Zoo, plus a discreet little nest, low in a hedge right by a busy path. Mrs Gould’s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae: Some stunning examples of these intensely-coloured birds at higher elevations and particularly by our Sengor camp. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: The ‘default’ sunbird at higher elevations. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: These took over from the above species below the middle altitudes, and we had some good looks at them along the Mo Chu, and on the Lingmethang and Shemgang roads. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: A couple of flying birds were seen zipping about our camp at Tingtibi. PASSERIDAE Russet Sparrow Passer rutilans: Commonly encountered around higher elevation cultivation, with some sizable flocks in fields. A very smart bird! Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Small flocks seen around habitation and cultivation. White Wagtail Motacilla alba: Most numerous in the Paro valley, all of the black-backed race alboides. White-browed Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis: An Indian subcontinent endemic that seemingly reaches into Bhutan at low altitudes, yet this was the first time it has been recorded on the tour! We observed a female feeding two fully-grown juveniles on the riverbank at Punakha. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Several seen around Tingtibi, almost all flying along the road ahead of the bus! Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Seen frequently, with some songsters on territory on the high passes. Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus: A flock of six in varying states of summer dress were seen on pastures on the Chele La. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris: A good but brief look at one perched on a treetop on the Chele La. Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata: Just a few seen, typically in the scrubby margins of cultivation at higher elevations. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: A busy flock was seen in some rough fields near Tingtibi. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata (NL): Roy and Ange saw four by our Punakha hotel. FRINGILLIDAE Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides: Not encountered till we reached Shemgang, where an obliging male fed along the verge, then another dozen were seen there from the bus. Plain Mountain Finch Leucosticte nemoricola: Our first were two on pastures on the Chele La, then we saw large swirling flocks of 150+ around the farmland at Ura. Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis: A male was seen briefly as we had breakfast on the Chele La. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: A flock of 25 graced the roadside near Shemgang on our return leg. Beautiful Rosefinch Carpodacus pulcherrimus: Several females were seen around Ura and along the high road near there. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch C. pulcherrimus as distinct from the Chinese Beautiful Rosefinch C. davidianus. Dark-rumped Rosefinch Carpodacus edwardsii: We saw only females, our best views were on the Chele La with a couple of obliging birds joining us for breakfast, then others were seen on the Yutong and Pele Las. White-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus thura: Only found on the Chele La, where a male and three females fed on the ground below the road. The new ‘Birds of South Asia - The Ripley Guide’, splits this form, calling it Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch C. thura as distinct from the Chinese White-browed Rosefinch C. davidianus. Scarlet Finch Haematospiza sipahi: Our first of these eyeball-searing birds was on the Lingmethang Road, then we saw two flocks near Shemgang that really showed well. Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra: Just three seen on the Dochu La, but some good looks nonetheless. Red-headed Bullfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala: Three were seen on the Dochu La, followed by another eight near Sengor and finishing with a single male on the Pele La. Collared Grosbeak Mycerobas affinis: Some superb individuals seen on the Chele La at the start of the trip, and then not again until we found two on the Pele La on our return leg. Spot-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas melanozanthos: One would never believe that this is only the fourth time this has been seen on this tour, yet we had four separate encounters with obliging flocks, with birds even in song at the high elevation of 2900m near Sengor. It was obviously their year! White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes: Seen well on the Chele, Pele and Ura-Sheltang Las. Gold-naped Finch Pyrrhoplectes epauletta: An exquisite male was found by Katie on the Lingmethang Road, which confidingly fed on the roadside in front of us. Crested Bunting Melophus lathami: Plentiful around cultivation at lower elevations, particularly in the Mangdechu valley. Little Bunting Emberiza pusilla: Four late-wintering birds were disturbed from the roadside on the Lingmethang Road. MAMMALS Moupin Pika Ochotona thibetana: Regular sightings at the higher elevations. Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: A single of these impressive beasts seen on the Shemgang road. Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah: A handful of these were seen, often at higher elevations. Irrawaddy Squirrel Callosciurus pygerythrus: This was the plain tawny-brown squirrel with vague banding in the tail, seen on several occasions along our route. Himalayan Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii: These tiny squirrels were present in the warm broad-leaved forests. Northern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennantii (I): Numerous and endearing around Delhi Zoo. Hodgson’s Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista magnificus: The first time that this has been seen on the tour, one flew over our Yongkola camp in the twilight (a large fellow, first identified as a Hornbill!) when it was still light enough to see some pelage details. Nepal Grey Langur (Common L) Semnopithecus schistaceus: Only seen at high altitude near the Pele La. On range and altitude, I’m sure it’s this one rather than Tarai Grey Langur. Golden Leaf Monkey (G. Langur) Trachypithecus geei: Only discovered in 1956 and restricted to south-central Bhutan and adjacent Assam, so this was one of the rarest creatures seen on the whole trip! There were large numbers around Shemgang with some fearless roadside troops to keep us entertained! Assam Macaque Macaca assamensis: One or two troops were seen along the Shemgang road, though they seem shyer than the above. Eurasian Wild Boar Sus scrofa: Five of these were seen briefly as they crashed away from the road near Shemgang. Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: At least three were seen along our route, with others heard. Sumatran Serow Capricornis sumatraensis: The startling and noisy arrival of this curious animal, onto the road close to where we were standing, diverted our attention away from Grey-sided Laughingthrush for a few seconds before it bolted into the forest! The first time this has been seen on this tour. REPTILES Blotched Pit Viper Ovophis monticola: A splendid and rather docile specimen was found by our camp crew at Yongkola, where it stayed put long enough for a close inspection and for photos to be taken. Described as venomous and dangerous! [Monocled Cobra Naja kaouthia: A very unlucky recently-deceased specimen was found on the road in the Mangdechu valley. Normally it would be venomous and potentially fatal!] |
