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11 - 30 APRIL 2001 Trip Report by Dave Farrow dave@shortwing.co.uk Norwich UK Another successful tour to Bhutan under the belt yet with something of a difference this year. In spite of the fact that we were unable to reach Deothang and Samdrup Jongkhar, we made up for it by seeing almost all of the birds that we could have wished for. A mouth-watering tally of six species of Wren Babblers included the fabled Wedge-billed, four species of Parrotbill including close encounters with Great, Himalayan Monal, Satyr Tragopan and the unforgettable 'raspberry fool', Ward's Trogon. Our first days birding was an unscheduled visit to some of Delhi's best birding areas. We began early at Okla where Striated Grassbirds, Streaked and Black-breasted Weavers emerged from the reedbeds, Greater Flamingoes and Painted Storks sat on the sandbanks and Citrine Wagtails strutted among the water hyacinths. Delhi Zoo was full of squabbling Rosy Starlings, Brown- headed Barbets and a surprise flock of Green Avadavats. Arriving in Paro a day later than anticipated, we quickly made up time with five Solitary Snipe, an Ibisbill (an early contribution by Yeshe), Black-tailed Crakes sat calling side by side in a bush and some late Little Buntings feeding in the fields. Passing over the Dochu La we found Rusty- throated Treecreeper, Collared Grosbeaks and a White-throated Needletail shot past in the company of numerous Fork-tailed Swifts. The Mo Chu valley provided our first concentrated birding among hillsides of beautiful forest overhanging the broad but fast river. A Spotted Wren Babbler sat in full view pumping out his techno-rhythms for us, and we found Yellow-vented Warblers, Black-chinned Yuhinas, a singing Slaty-backed Flycatcher and an elusive Rufous- chinned Laughingthrush. An evening wait on the riverbank provided us with great views of a huge Tawny Fish Owl that flew in to hunt at dusk. Further down the valley we found Ibisbills with chicks, Blue-throated Flycatcher, Crested Kingfishers and by the impressive Punakha Dzong we found a pair of Slender-billed Orioles. Driving eastwards we found a Yellow-rumped Honeyguide by the roadside, and in the higher forests around the Pele La we found excitable bird-flocks containing Hoary-throated Barwings, Green Shrike Babblers and Red-headed Bullfinches. Near to Tongsa we enjoyed a rewarding morning with Pygmy Wren Babbler, Drongo Cuckoo, Spot-winged Grosbeak, Little Forktail, a stunning Scarlet Finch, three more Yellow-rumped Honeyguides and three gangs of ghostly Golden Langurs. Further east, we ascended in the early morning up the winding road to the Ura- Sheltang La, where at the side of the road we found a stunning male Himalayan Monal, plus another that glided by for a fully psychedelic view. A Blood Pheasant scuttled away from the roadside, so a foray into the forest was necessary and we were rewarded with the most outrageous views. Two males boldly came right up to us for a noisy inspection, showing their green and crimson plumage to maximum effect. An Orange-flanked Bush Robin sang from the top of a conifer for us to inspect its finery, before we left these high forests and continued over the highest pass of the tour at 3700m, descending to our campsite at the top of the beckoning Limithang road. We birded the upper road finding Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Speckled Wood Pigeon, an obliging Scaly Laughingthrush, Broad-billed Warbler, a flock of five Grey-headed Bullfinches, a male Gold-naped Finch that allowed us prolonged close views as it hovered to pick seeds off a plant and a Blue-fronted Robin that poured silver chords from impenetrable shadows. The cream on the cake (as we drove home in the rain) was a male Satyr Tragopan that skipped across the road, then a female that fed in full view for five whole minutes! Our high camp was a spectacular setting with views of fresh snow falls on the high pass to the west, a group of eight Golden Jackals lingered on the slope high above our camp and a Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler gave superb views right under our noses. As we continued down this enchanting forested mountain we found White-browed Shortwing, Chestnut-headed Tesias and two Wedge-billed Wren Babblers were found in the densest of tangles. They stayed almost as rare as before we arrived, only offering us tantalising glimpses. Our search to find the Ward's Trogon was lengthy, it was midday when at last it called from the nearby trees and offered itself to us allowing superb views. And just in time too as the rain and mist descended on us once again. What a bird! The rich supply of the beautiful and the rare continued with Sapphire Flycatchers, Rufous-throated Wren Babbler, Golden-breasted and Yellow-throated Fulvettas, Cutia, White-browed Shrike Babbler, Greater
flock slowly making their way up the ridge as they went to roost. From our lower camp at Yongkola, we birded the lower forests finding Pale Blue Flycatcher, Rusty-cheeked, Coral-billed and Streak-breasted Scimitar Babblers, Blue-throated Bee-eater, Rusty-fronted Barwings, White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Black Giant Squirrels and two Goral were spotted hiding in the forest by the indefatigable Yeshe. Our last stop here was the lower forests where we found a surprise Orange-headed Thrush, Blue-throated Flycatchers, Ashy Bulbul, Blue- throated Barbet, some noisy but skulking Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, Speckled Piculet and a pair of Rufous Woodpeckers. Onwards and eastwards to the Kori La, where we found Grey-winged Blackbirds, numerous Large Niltavas and Yellow-breasted Greenfinches. At the south-easternmost point of our route, we found another Black-tailed Crake, three more Orange-headed and a demure Tickell's Thrush, a White-tailed Robin performed well and some migrant Hume's Warblers called from the bushes. On the higher passes we found a lively flock with four delightful Cutia giving us curious anxiety displays at point blank range, Black-eared Shrike Babblers, a single of the rare Brown-throated Fulvetta, a glimpse of the elusive Long-billed Thrush, and a pair of Spotted Forktails on a roadside stream polished off a fine day. We left Tashigang for terra-nova, finding Lesser Coucal, Crested Kingfisher and Crimson Sunbird on the way before climbing up toward Tashi Yangtse. We found a forested gorge with Rufous- chinned Laughingthrush, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Hodgson's Hawk and Drongo Cuckoos, Green- billed Malkoha and nesting Bronzed Drongos. To bring our camping experience to a close, we pitched in front of a lovely vista of mountains and forest by a peaceful (and dry!) section of road before commencing our return westwards. We enjoyed a productive spell on the Kori La once more, with Grey-bellied Tesia, another flock of Cutia, (you can never see enough!) three superlative Long-tailed Broadbills, Indian Cuckoo and Tibetan Siskin, before we headed for a night in Mongar. Once more birding the Limithang Road, we began with a dash of colour from a very obliging male Red-headed Trogon, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches sang from the trees and White-crested Laughingthrushes hopped around the quiet fields. Breakfast among the giant forest trees was quickly followed by an exquisite Black-throated Parrotbill and an unusually exhibitionist Lesser Shortwing, Rufous-necked Hornbills cleaved the air above us and a Slaty-bellied Tesia scolded us from thick cover. A last ditch attempt to find the delicately spotted Bar-winged Wren Babbler (and the leaders bogey-bird!) was wrapped up successfully before lunch with one found singing by the roadside. Hurrah! In the high scrub we found White-browed Rosefinch before we reached Jakar and the welcome luxury of a newly built lodge of shiny pine. The following day began with a beautiful morning at a new stake-out for Brown Parrotbill. We found five, including one sitting in full view on a fence-post! Onwards to the Yutong La, where we found White-browed Bush Robin, a Great Parrotbill sat up calling, and even another Bar-winged Wren Babbler was heard! On the bamboo-cloaked Pele La we found a superbly obliging and fearless pair of jay-like Spotted Laughingthrushes, a feast for the eyes indeed. We re-visited the Dochu La, and along the high ridge trail we found Rosy Pipit, Collared Grosbeak and an inquisitive Great Parrotbill. Then it was time to hit the big city of Thimphu, and some birding up the Thimphu valley where we found another Yellow-rumped Honeyguide as the rain came in once more. Scheduled to fly from Paro, we did some last birding along the scenic Paro valley as we waited for our delayed flight. Some last enjoyment before the situation worsened! Our flight was cancelled, then the only aircraft got damaged, so two more nights in Bhutan and all for free! A day and a half of waiting heart-in-mouth, punctuated only by a Pallas's Fish Eagle soaring high over the Paro valley. Finally it was 'Buddha to the rescue' as we finally left in the hands of Buddha Air, to bring to a close a very eventful and fun-filled trip! Only two days late! Nothing ever stays the same in this part of the world, it's all part of the magic that lies within these enchanting mountains. And what a fantastic piece of the planet it is! In spite of the difficulties we encountered on this trip, we managed to do incredibly well and have a very rewarding and memorable time. I can't wait to return! |
