Cambodia Feb/Mar 2005 (Birdquest)

CAMBODIA 19 FEBRUARY - 6 MARCH 2005 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: DAVE BRADFORD, KEVIN BRYAN, IAN LEWIS, PETER MARKHAM, JESPER MEEDOM, RICHARD NEWTON, IAN PUCKRIN, JAY SILVERBURG and RIITA VIINANEN. Just four years and three months ago, Giant Ibis was re-discovered in Preah Vihear province, by a camera-trap set up to record mammals coming to remote trapaengs, the first proof of its existence since 1962. It hardly seems possible then, within this short time, that this is the third Birdquest trip to see them! Since my initial foray to find this forest enigma in 2002, trying to see it has gone from a harsh ‘Heart-of-Darkness’ style expedition to a relatively comfortable and straightforward ‘twitch!’ So this year’s tour to Cambodia was a splendid affair! We saw three (or maybe six) Giant Ibis, the favourite and the flagship bird of the tour, which lured us through the dry woodland with its prehistoric braying and bugling. Equally as rare were the pair of White-shouldered Ibis, one of them brooding three little sickle-billed chicks in the canopy of a prominent tree. Seven species of storks were seen, with Milky Storks and huge Greater Adjutants leading the way. Several Bengal Floricans were encountered, plus the recently discovered Mekong Wagtail, (looking unique amid the river of its name) and we then enjoyed some awesome views of the beautiful and little-known Chestnut-headed Partridge. Add a little topping of flocks of Sarus Cranes, Manchurian Reed Warbler and Asian Golden Weaver, two firsts for the country in the shape of Booted Eagle and a swarm of Chestnut Buntings, Barred and Little Buttonquails, Blue-breasted Quail, Black-headed Woodpeckers, Brown Fish Owl, Malaysian Plover, Broad-billed Sandpipers, Large Scimitar Babbler, Blue Pitta and two species of Trogon, its all adding up to be quite a trip. We recorded almost exactly the same number of species as the last year’s tour, yet had 36 new species to write in to our lists! We began gently with a stay in Siem Riep, shaking off the fatigue of travelling with a stroll around some of the great temples of Angkor Wat. In the great trees around the site, we began our birding with a remarkable flock of 40 Black Baza, plus some migrant Oriental and Drongo Cuckoos and Black-naped Oriole. We met the many Buddha-like faces at the Bayon Temple, and moved on to the jungly Ta Phrom with its crumbling masonry adorned with snaking tree roots. Here we found Red-breasted Parakeets, Lineated and Coppersmith Barbets, with many Black-headed Bulbuls coming to a fruiting tree. Our first outing into open country took us to Ang Trapaeng Thmor, a reservoir set amid a rice-growing area rich in birdlife. Our main quarry here, the Sarus Crane of the race sharpei gave itself up without a struggle, and we were able to watch various groups scattered around the site. Searching further we found Blue-breasted Quail, had some close and prolonged views of a female Barred Buttonquail, Cotton Pygmy Geese and Comb Ducks, Black-necked Stork, Eastern Marsh Harrier, Greater Spotted Eagles, Black Kites and our first dapper Rufous-winged Buzzard, two kinds of Jacana, Oriental Pratincoles, Australasian Bushlark, Thick-billed Warblers and a Siberian Rubythroat. No trip to Cambodia would be complete with experiencing the trip to Prek Toal and it’s waterbird spectacle. We managed an early start from the jetty on the shore of the Tonle Sap in spite of a puncture en-route, and set off across the great lake in a longtail boat until we reached the creek that snakes into the interior of the Prek Toal core conservation area. We paused as we awaited our rowing boats, with the shore of the lake alive with Indian Cormorants and Whiskered Terns, Asian Openbills, Oriental Darters and Black-headed Ibis. We were paddled upstream, marvelling at the number of Spot-billed Pelicans on the water and in the air, Grey-headed Fish Eagles yelped and the bushes tittered with many invisible Rusty-rumped Warblers and Ruddy-breasted Crakes. Hundreds of Painted Storks appeared as we approached our objective of the observation platform, lodged in one of the tallest trees here. We found both Greater and Lesser Adjutants soaring overhead and also perched up in the trees. Soon after arriving at the tree hide we spotted Milky Stork soaring nearby, though its nest was just on the wrong side of a tree! The ride back was relaxed, with time to enjoy the profusion of life that accompanies the Great Lake. A last pilgrimage to Angkor Wat was on order, and we made a pre-dawn visit to watch the sunrise over the ancient spires. After an al-fresco breakfast we wandered through the woods and then into the Temple of Angkor Wat itself, distracted by Asian Barred Owlets, Blue Rock Thrushes, Red-throated Flycatcher, Black-winged Cuckooshrike and Ashy Minivets. After lunch we headed east to Kompong Thom, a short journey on a fast road, where we met Tom Gray of the University of East Anglia, who is based here doing a PhD on Conservation Ecology of the Bengal Florican. Along with some of his Khmer counterparts, they took us out to their study area, and before very long we were watching a male Bengal Florican craning his black neck out of the grass. We saw a further four in this area, in-between watching Red Avadavats, Bluethroats and Green Bee-eaters. In the early morning we checked stands of tall grass and had our first brush with Manchurian Reed Warbler, plus Oriental Reed Warblers, Striated Grassbird, a stunning male Pied Harrier and a covey of Small Buttonquails. It was time to head up-country and take to some extremely bumpy and dusty ‘roads’, to penetrate the remote areas of Preah Vihear province, the mother-lode of rare Ibises… We eventually reached the small village of Thmat Baeuy, set in little more than a clearing in the dry deciduous woodland of the area. Our home for the next three nights was a simple wooden house on stilts, where in spite of the baking heat we enjoyed a comfortable stay, our crew preparing us some great meals and keeping the cool-box topped up with ice and beer! A short stroll in the last light of the day near the village produced a flight view of a Pale-capped Pigeon heading off over the forest. Our first morning saw us deep in the woodlands, kitted up for a very hot day of searching. We stalked through the dawn light, drawn by the loud bugling of Giant Ibises coming from the trees nearby. We scuttled around as quietly as we could, then an outburst of loud calls preceded two birds flying over the treetops towards us, jinking a little as they caught sight of us below, before giving us a complete fly-past view. Hoorah! Such a rare experience provoked a shaking of hands all round! With beaming grins we carried on, reaching another trapaeng where we spotted another Giant Ibis perched up in a large tree, which amazingly didn’t flush on sight as they are so prone to doing, but instead sat on his branch allowing us an extended viewing and photography session. We then found three together, which headed off into the endless woodlands, completing our experience of this exciting bird. This forest was rich in other birds of course, as indicated by a wonderful soundscape of calls around us, and we saw Wooly-necked Storks, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, White-bellied Woodpecker, Brown and Rufescent Prinias, Green Imperial, Orange-breasted and Yellow-footed Green Pigeons. We retreated to our village home for the middle part of the day, sallying forth in the afternoon when we found Rufous and that most beautiful of Woodpeckers, the Black-headed, which came around us cackling loudly. The following morning we were taken to see the nest of White-shouldered Ibis, and we were able to watch the bird on the nest brooding three little sickle-billed downy chicks, while the other parent perched up on a dead tree and viewed us from a discreet distance. Further wanderings yielded a Brown Fish Owl, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Blossom-headed and Alexandrine Parakeet, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Radde’s Warbler, Large and Indochinese Cuckooshrikes, Vinous-breasted Starling, Burmese Shrikes and White-browed Fantails, and Chinese Francolins began calling raucously as the light faded. A twilight vigil for nightbirds revealed an obliging Brown Hawk Owl, but an Oriental Scops Owl stayed invisible despite our best efforts to see it, never pausing for breath as it chuntered from deep within a dense clump of vegetation. As the time came to leave these enchanting forests, we made a last walk along the sandy tracks and found Indian and Banded Bay Cuckoos, Indochinese Bushlarks and Black-hooded Orioles, then it was time to return to the dusty bumpy roads until we reached Kompong Thom once again, A short evening excursion onto the dry plain produced Yellow-breasted Buntings, Oriental Skylark and Pied Harrier, and on another morning session we saw Manchurian Reed Warbler once more, along with Dusky and Black-browed Reed Warblers, and a flock of Intermediate Egrets and Spotted Redshanks together on a small pool. Our increasingly fatigued vehicles (and their hard-working drivers) managed to hold it together for another journey, across to the Mekong River and up the east bank, reaching Kratie in time for an excursion to the Dolphin pool at Kampi. Here we took to the water and gently cruised across the deceptively calm surface. Irrawaddy Dolphins slid stealthily about, announced only by a little huff of a blow. Out among the small islands that sit mid-stream we found several Mekong Wagtails, singing from the tops of bushes and scrambling among the branches in a curiously arborial fashion. A perched Peregrine gave us a stunning view, Small Pratincoles darted about, an Osprey cruised by and great flights of Little Cormorants headed downstream. One job left to do here, with an early morning visit to the marsh and lake behind the town, where first we disturbed a Spotted Owlet, then around the gorgeous lotus ponds we watched Lesser Whistling and Indian Spot-billed Ducks, Oriental and Plaintive Cuckoos, Black-shouldered Kites and Plain-backed Sparrows. Our target of Asian Golden Weaver held out for a little while, but before long we were enjoying views of a glowing male perched in the waterside vegetation. Then it was time to be on our way once more, a long journey via a café in Phnom Penh where we were met by Tom Clements of WCS, who is working on the development of ecotourism in the Thmat Bauey area. Fittingly he brought along the latest camera trap photos of Giant Ibis, so we were able to see the great bird filling the frame with its huge form. Then it was on to our night stop at Kampot, with a pause in the early morning to check the Germain’s Swiftlets nesting in the town. Some genial students were persuaded to allow us into their home so that we could look at the strange little nests. We ascended the escarpment of the plateau of Bokor, the rough road winding its way up to 1000m through some very rich evergreen forest, and our first stop yielded Thick-billed Pigeon, Racket-tailed Treepie, Green-eared and Blue-eared Barbet, Dollarbird, Common Hill Myna, White-rumped Shama, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Thick-billed Flowerpecker, migrant Grey-faced Buzzards and some White-bellied Sea Eagles with a huge untidy nest here. Higher up and we were looking at Ashy and Ochraceous Bulbuls, White-bellied Yuhina and Little Spiderhunter, then we reached the top and bumped our way along to the little resthouse on the top of the plateau, surrounded by curious stunted and very dense patches of evergreen forest. We set off after lunch in search of more thrills, with our Ranger for some reason taking us off-piste for a while! We found Mugimaki Flycatcher, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, White-browed Shrike Babbler, White-tailed Leaf Warbler and Black-throated Sunbird. A search for Partridges drew a blank, but we did find a flock of Chestnut Bunting going to roost, a first for Cambodia! The following morning we began early, finding Barred Cuckoo Doves and Mountain Imperial Pigeons, Arctic and the elusive Plain-tailed Warbler and Pale-legged Leaf Warbler, and a handsome pair of White-browed Scimitar Babblers, before we headed off onto a narrow trail deeper into the lush forests. Before very long we heard the loud call from a Chestnut-headed Partridge, and positioning ourselves we began to lure the bird in. We had the exciting experience of hearing it running through the leaf litter towards us, going silent, and calling again as it came inexorably closer. Then into view it walked, scuttling across in the open in full view to us all. Wow! What a beautiful bird! Flushed with success, a short way down the trail we heard another calling, and with a bit of encouragement, that too could be heard rushing towards us, running into view and then pausing at the foot of the bank we were standing on, in full view at 10m range! Outstanding! If there’s one thing I like more than seeing rare birds, its seeing rare birds very well and at close range! We also found Siberian Blue Robin here and heard the strange howling from Pileated Gibbons, and as we paused in an open area a dark phase Booted Eagle cruised over, another first for the country! Further explorations at Bokor concentrated on the rich forest on the escarpment slope, where we found Eye-browed Thrush, Emerald Dove, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Large Scimitar Babbler, Orange-breasted and Red-headed Trogon, Moustached Barbets, a brief glimpse of a Blue Pitta, Forest Wagtail, Asian House Martin, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Great and Wreathed Hornbills, and a surprise Silver Pheasant. Returning to the coast, we made an exploratory detour to some saltpans near the town of Kampot, which had been distantly visible from the top of the mountain. At first it all seemed quiet with just a few Kentish Plovers and Caspian Terns, but then we found an area with plenty of waders flying about. A stop to look at some Greater Sand Plovers revealed a pallid Malaysian Plover scuttling about on the mud, and nearby we found good numbers of Lesser Sand Plovers and Red-necked Stints, with a few Broad-billed and Curlew Sandpipers. It later turns out that nobody has been birding in this area, and who knows what else this rich feeding ground might turn up. We continued to our final night stop in the coastal town of Sihanoukville, where our intentions to reach a small offshore island were thwarted by rough seas, so a short drive to the Ream National Park and a boat ride provided a convenient backup plan. We added Pacific Swallow here, Stork-billed Kingfisher and more White-bellied Sea Eagles and Lesser Adjutants. Then it was time to unplug ourselves from this wonderful birding trip, make the transit to Phnom Penh airport along a fast road and say farewell to this endearing country and its forests full of thrills. SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL) Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) PHASIANIDAE Chinese Francolin Francolinus pintadeanus: A few sightings around Thmat Baeuy, with the best views on our first morning but only from the lead car. Others were glimpsed as they ran or flew away from us, or vacated the trees that they had been calling from. Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: We managed to get some flight views of these at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, showing their all dark upperwings but alas no blue! Chestnut-headed Partridge Arborophila cambodiana: C’mon baby!! After some fruitless searching for this seldom seen endemic beauty at Bokor, we managed to find a calling bird. With some strategic luring and the exciting sound of it rushing through the leaf litter towards us, the bird moved right into our viewing area and showed its fantastic plumage to all. A short while later, this was superseded by another bird that did something similar, crashing towards us until it reached the foot of the bank we were standing on and stopped in full view at a range of ten metres! Awesome views of an awesome bird! Classified as ‘Endangered’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus (H): Heard at Thmat Baeuy. Silver Pheasant Lophura nycthemera: A startling moment for the lead car in the middle of the day at Bokor, when a female (or young male) lifted off the verge and flew up into the forest! DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck (L Treeduck) Dendrocygna javanica: We found some 250+ on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, another ten at Kratie and then an impressive raft of 600 on the creek at Ream N.P. ANATIDAE Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: A flock of c320 individuals at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. An extremely rare bird in Southeast Asia these days. Cotton Pygmy-Goose Nettapus coromandelianus: Fair numbers of these attractive little ducks at Ang Trapaeng Thmor where we found 50 or more. Indian Spot-billed Duck (Burmese S-b D) Anas poecilorhyncha: Flight views only of a handful at Kompong Thom and at Kratie. Often, Chinese Spot-billed Duck A. zonorhyncha is lumped in this species with the name Spot-billed Duck being used for the enlarged species. Garganey Anas querquedula: A couple of dozen including some nice drakes at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. TURNACIDAE Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica: Some good views of one of four birds scuttling about in the low vegetation at Kompong Thom. The subspecies involved is davidi. The species has a wide range but the variation in plumage seems great and the birds here should look very different to those in Africa, and you know what means….. Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator: A fantastic view of a female walking about in the open at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, followed by variable views at Kompong Thom, Kratie and a look at a very close crouching bird at Thmat Baeuy. PICIDAE Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: Not uncommon in the deciduous forests at Thmat Baeuy. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopus mahrattensis: Two birds were seen in the dry forest at Thmat Baeuy. Rufous Woodpecker Celeus brachyurus: A female showed well to us all at Thmat Baeuy, plus Richard saw another en-route to there.. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: Heard at Thmat Baeuy, then we had to make do with an unsatisfactory flight view. Black-headed Woodpecker Picus erythropygius: This would surely have been a contender for bird-of-the-trip had we not seen so many other great birds! Incredibly colourful, we found numerous examples around Thmat Baeuy. Cambodia must be the best place to see this wonderful woodpecker! Common Flameback (C Goldenback) Dinopium javanense: A few seen around the dry forests of Thmat Baeuy, plus a single at Ream N. P. Greater Flameback (G Goldenback) Chrysocolaptes lucidus: A few seen around Thmat Baeuy, and heard at Bokor in a more typical habitat for this species. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: A single bird was seen in flight at Thmat Baeuy. MEGALAIMIDAE Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: We saw our first at Angkor Wat at the Ta Phrom temple, and then they were common in the forest at Thmat Baeuy providing a continual backdrop of sound. Green-eared Barbet Megalaima faiostricta: A single bird was seen perched on our first morning at Bokor. Moustached Barbet Megalaima incognita: This Indochinese endemic was common and vocal at Bokor. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: Several looks at this small barbet at Bokor. The subspecies concerned, cyanotis, occurs from the Himalayas to Indochina. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Actually this was only seen on our first afternoon at the Ta Phrom temple. BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: Two were seen near the Ibis nest at Thmat Baeuy, with others heard cackling from the forests there. Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: The search for ‘Fred’s fruiting tree’ at Bokor ended when its location was announced by a dozen of these forest giants noisily vacating it!. Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus: A couple of brief sightings of flying birds at Bokor. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forest at Thmat Baeuy. TROGONIDAE Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios: An elusive but very vocal bird at Bokor was glimpsed by some of us from deep within a rattan-filled thicket! Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus: Elusive but vocal at Bokor, with a glimpse of one flashing across the road while others called around us. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Rather common, though colourful, in open country. Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: At least three were seen in the forest on the lower slopes of the Bokor plateau. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Frequently seen around Prek Toal, Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kratie and Ream N. P. HALCYONIDAE Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis: Two were seen in flight briefly during our boat trip in Ream National Park. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Few seen, around Thmat Baeuy and Kratie. Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata: A few were seen around the Siem Reap end of the trip, then again at Ream N.P. CERYLIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Most conspicuous around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with a couple of others seen along the way. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: At least three were seen in the forest below Bokor. Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Fairly common in the deciduous forest at Thmat Baeuy, plus a couple seen at our first Florican site. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Common throughout, with birds often in the air calling. CUCULIDAE Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides: A single bird flew past us in the forest near Thmat Baeuy. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus: These crepuscular singers, singing ‘you-can’t-see-me!’ taunted us for a while at Thmat Baeuy until we were able to get a look at one perched. Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus: Numerous examples of migrant cuckoos were seen along the way, most assigned to this species. One perched up nicely for us at Kratie, but many didn’t want to endure our scrutiny! Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: Some great looks at a bird that flew in to nearby treetops close to us, at Thmat Baeuy on our last morning. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: A bird was in good voice at Prek Toal, but we had to wait until Kratie before we saw one.. Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus (H): Heard on the lower slopes of the Bokor plateau. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Two birds were seen near the Angkor Wat temple, looking superficially like Drongos but with a fine bill and pale barring on the undertail coverts. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: Frequently heard and seen a couple of times in flight. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: A scattering of sightings of these skulkers, at Prek Toal, Angkor and at Bokor. CENTROPODIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Just odd ones seen, with their booming calls heard more frequently. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Several fine sightings of this grassland specialist at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom, Kratie and on the moor at Bokor. PSITTACIDAE Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis: Several typical if unsatisfactory flybys at Bokor. Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Numerous examples of these big parrots were seen in the Thmat Baeuy area, always pleasing to see this bird that is so threatened by collecting for the cagebird industry. Blossom-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseata: We eventually ran this to ground near Thmat Baeuy, where we saw some feeding in paddies beneath the White-shouldered Ibis nest! Several more were seen there, and a lone female was seen at Kratie. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Common and noisy at Ta Phrom temple of Angkor Wat, then they were the most numerous Parakeets around Thmat Baeuy, with a handful more seen at Ream N. P. APODIDAE Germain’s Swiftlet Collocalia germani: After the last tour’s fun with these birds at Kampot, we went searching for the nests of the numerous Swiftlets flying overhead, waking some genial students who allowed us into their cavernous loft. We saw several whitish ‘edible’ type nests masquerading at mortar. Brown-backed Needletail (Brown N) Hirundapus giganteus: A couple were seen over Angkor Wat, then a couple more en-route to Thmat Baeuy. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Common over the open rice-growing plains dotted with the sugar palms that they nest in. House Swift Apus affinis: Scattered sightings around Angkor Wat and the coastal sites, often found around bridges. HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Lots around the dry deciduous forest at Thmat Baeuy where we had some close encounters. STRIGIDAE Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia (H): A devil sat in a high thicket taunting us with his monotonous call, never pausing for breath! Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis: An individual flushed by a trapaeng at Thmat Baeuy gave good brief views before it left again. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H): Stubborn individuals sitting tight in the canopy were heard on a number of occasions at Bokor, but never accounted for themselves. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Several were seen around Angkor Wat, and then it was heard regularly at Thmat Baeuy. Spotted Owlet Athene brama: A single bird perched up for us at Kratie town marsh. Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata: A good look at one of a pair at Thmat Baeuy, that woke early enough for us to see it by natural light as he swooped about us calling loudly. CAPRIMULGIDAE Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: Calling birds at Thmat Baeuy never showed themselves, but one was caught calling from a perch just outside our ‘hotel’ at Bokor. A Nightjar seen near Thmat Baeuy was this species or Indian Nightjar C. asiaticus. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (introduced) (R Dove) Columba livia: Uh? Pale-capped Pigeon Columba punicea:. A notoriously erratic and nomadic species, we had poor flight views of one on our first evening at Thmat Baeuy. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” due to major threats to its continued existence through habitat loss and fragmentation. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Common and widespread. Red Collared Dove (R Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Often seen in the dry deciduous forests at Thmat Baeuy, and elsewhere in open country.. Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall: Plenty at Bokor, and though we only really ever saw them in flight, their calls added to the misty mood of the plateau forest. Emerald Dove (Green-winged Pigeon) Chalcophaps indica: A single bird was seen belting down the track in typical fashion at Bokor. Peaceful Dove (Zebra D) Geopelia striata: A few sightings near to Ang Trapaeng Thmor. This species just creeps into Cambodia in this area. Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta: Some nice views of these gorgeous pigeons around the trapaengs at Thmat Baeuy. Thick-billed Green Pigeon Treron curvirostra: Several showed well enough at Bokor to appreciate their colours and diagnostic blue-green skin around the eye. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera: Another stunning bird we found in fair numbers on our first morning in the forests at Thmat Baeuy. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura: A couple of these hefty birds were seen visiting fruiting trees at Bokor. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: A few were seen around Thmat Baeuy only. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia: Some great looks of these fatties at Bokor, adding to the soundscape with their deep calls. OTIDIDAE Bengal Florican Eupodotis bengalensis: We were lucky enough to join Tom Gray of the University of East Anglia at Kompong Thom and be taken to his study site for this great bird near Stung. We all had a good look at up to four males strutting around, and also in barely-aerodynamic flight, with legs awkwardly trailing! The second vehicles saw the same plus more at closer range as we left, and then another was seen closer to Kompong Thom the following morning. The rediscovery of this globally threatened species in Indochina was one of Sam Veasna’s major achievements in his all too short conservation career. Classified as ‘Endangered’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 250-999, with up to 50% of the world population in Indochina, the rest in India and Nepal. GRUIDAE Sarus Crane Grus antigone: We were privileged enough to see nearly c85 of the endangered sharpei subspecies at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Various groups were scattered around the paddies, and there was a bigger group on the wetter shores of the lake itself. This form is the smallest and darkest and has a few minor plumage differences from the nominate (of SE Asia) and gilliae (of Australia), although. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 15,000 individuals, with only c1,000 of the rarest subspecies sharpii. RALLIDAE Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca: Calling birds were very numerous during our canoe ride along the creeks at Prek Toal, with one showing well to some of us who weren’t up the tower at the time! Another was seen briefly on that day, and also heard at Kompong Thom and Kratie. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: Very numerous on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and a few seen around the mouth of the creek at Prek Toal. This is one of the species formed from the six-way split of Purple Swamphen P. porphyrio. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Prek Toal and Kratie. SCOLOPACIDAE Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: A couple were seen in flight at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Several seen on the Tonle Sap floodplain around Kompong Thom and also seen at Kratie. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: A hundred or so at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and a group on a pool at Kompong Thom. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Up to dozen seen between us at the Kampot saltpans. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: A flock of c50 was seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, odd ones at Kompong Thom and a score at Kampot. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: A single was seen at Thmat Baeuy, plus another en-route to Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A couple were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and some more at Kompong Thom. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Finally added to the list at Kampot! Red-necked Stint (Rufous-n S) Calidris ruficollis: A pleasing sight on the Kampot saltpans where more than 200 covered the mud. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: A single individual flew over us at Kratie - a scarce passage migrant in Cambodia. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: At least four with the ‘wader-fest’ at Kampot. Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus: Some ten birds were much appreciated as they fed on the Kampot saltpans. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Three birds hid among the hordes of Tringas at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Good looks at ten or more around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus two more seen at Kratie. All were in non-breeding plumage. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Some ten with the above species at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. CHARADRIIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: A couple of dozen were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor only. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: A single bird seen on the Stung grasslands was the only one of the trip. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola: Always good to see these familiar global travellers with at least half-a-dozen on the Kampot saltpans. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A scattering of sightings throughout. Kentish Plover (Snowy P) Charadrius alexandrinus: Some 15 or more on the Kampot saltpans.. Malaysian Plover Charadrius peronii: A thrilling surprise find of a smart female on the Kampot saltpans was the first indication that this was a great spot for waders. Much threatened by the development of sandy beaches, its favoured breeding habitat. Lesser Sand Plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus: More than a hundred fed on the muddy pans at Kampot, all of which remained in winter plumage.. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: Four birds showed well on the same dry pan as the Malaysian Plover, in various states of breeding dress, plus there were more over the back. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Just a few seen along our way. GLAREOLIDAE Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum: A fair number in the fields around Ang Trapaeng Thmor and a few more in the Kompong Thom and Sihanoukville area. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: A few singles were seen over the Mekong at Kratie. LARIDAE Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: Only seen on the Tonle Sap where we had nice views of 50. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: Good views of six or more around the Kampot saltpans. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Abundant on Tonle Sap where a thousand or more were seen. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: A single was seen on the Mekong at Kratie. Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes: A remarkable group of 45 were seen on our first day at Angkor Wat, then we went on to see singles and pairs at Thmat Bauey and Kratie. Cambodia is a great place to see this dapper raptor. Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested H B) Pernis ptilorhynchus: A couple were seen over the forests at Thmat Baeuy. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: Numerous around Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Kratie, with other singles seen along the way. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Some half-a-dozen were seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, these would be resident birds of the race govinda which are quite uniform in comparison to the migrant Black-eared Kite M. lineatus. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Scattered sightings near water throughout the tour, with greatest numbers being at Prek Toal. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: We had a view of a bird cruising close to the trees on the lower slopes at Bokor, and found the large ragged nest there. Also seen distantly at Sihanoukville (over the island) and at Ream N.P. where they were being vocal. Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus: Great looks of at least four from our canoes at Prek Toal. Classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” due to its localized and declining population. Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela: Several sightings in the forest around Thmat Baeuy. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: Numerous at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and in the Kompong Thom area where we saw many leaving their roosts. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: Two fabulous males were seen near Kompong Thom. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus (NL): A single was seen at Thmat Baeuy. Shikra Accipiter badius: The default Accipiter, with many sightings throughout the tour. Rufous-winged Buzzard Butastur liventer: A great view of our first at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then we enjoyed numerous birds in the dry forests of the Thmat Baeuy area. Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus: At least two, presumably migrants, seen on our first morning at Bokor. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: A couple of migrant birds were seen on the plateau at Bokor. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: Some four seen well, with several others present over the plains at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus two or three more seen near Kompong Thom. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 2,500-10,000. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: A nice view of a dark-phase bird that came soaring over our heads as we sat by the waterless waterfall at Bokor. Guess what? This was the first record for Cambodia! Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii: One or two showed to us on our last morning at Bokor. Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: A single bird was seen in flight on our first morning at Bokor. FALCONIDAE Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens (NL): One that got away from us on our last morning at Thmat Baeuy. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Two seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor were a write-in for the tour. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: We had a fantastic view of a large pale individual, perched up on an island at Kratie and was likely a migrant, possibly of the race callidus. Another was seen near Kompong Thom. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Singles were seen at Prek Toal and Kratie. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Difficult to estimate the numbers seen at Prek Toal, but 100 or more seems fair, a remarkable concentration for this part of the world! Classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” as it is uncommon and declining. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: A few were seen at Prek Toal and then many flocks numbering 500 or more seen flying along the Mekong at Kratie, destination unknown but perhaps exiting a roost and heading out to feed somewhere? Also seen at Kompong Thom. Indian Cormorant (I Shag) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: We estimated perhaps 800 birds around the Tonle Sap and Prek Toal core conservation area, part of the remarkable numbers of waterbirds here. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: The least numerous Cormorant of the trip, with 50 at Prek Toal and 20 at Kratie. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: The most widespread of the egrets. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Good numbers at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Prek Toal. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Some nice views of many of these around our main waterbird sites, with others seen around Kompong Thom. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: We saw hundreds at Prek Toal, many at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and a few more along the coast. Intermediate Egret (Plumed E) Mesophoyx intermedia: Several were noticed at Prek Toal and at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus a group of ten on a pool at Kompong Thom Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: The coromandus form was common and widespread, being seen on many days of the tour. Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus: Common and widespread in suitable habitat, though the only summer-plumaged birds seen were at Prek Toal. With winter-plumage birds, Javan Pond Heron cannot be excluded, although the later tour last year (with many more summer-plumages to look at) only found them at Prek Toal, so I am sure the vast majority of birds seen refer to Chinese Pond Heron. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa: Just two summer-plumage birds were seen in flight at Prek Toal. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Heard often and a few seen at Prek Toal, plus others seen at Kompong Thom, Kratie and at Ream National Park. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: The only sightings were at Prek Toal where they remained visible all day, at least 100 being seen. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: Two were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus another at Prek Toal. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: A single bird was flushed near Kompong Thom. THRESKIORNITHIDAE White-shouldered Ibis Pseudibis davisoni: It was very nice to have a newly-located nest to visit near Thmat Baeuy, as these were the only ones seen of this very rare creature. We were able to watch a brooding bird lying doggo on its nest, and after a while we were lucky enough to see three downy little heads with bent beaks poking above the rim of the structure. Another adult was around though it stayed fairly distant, perching up on a dead tree as it pondered our presence. Classified as ‘Critical’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 50-250, so easily as rare as the Big One, and a lifer for the leader no less! Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Only seen at Prek Toal where we saw at least 100 with many good views acquired. Classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. Giant Ibis Pseudibis gigantea: A remarkable story to this bird, to underwrite the value of our excellent observations of the species on this tour. Having not been since 1962, the species was re-discovered by a camera-trap that was being used to record mammals coming to remote trapaengs in Preah Vihear province. That was only in December 2000, and now this was the third Birdquest tour to see it! I visited Cambodia in March 2002 and saw 6 in Chhep district, an expedition that seemed akin to going to Coppola’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ when compared to the straightforward nature of this year’s visit. Our experience was a thrilling one, as we stalked through the dawn light drawn by the loud bugling of Giant Ibises coming from the trees nearby. We scuttled around as quietly as we could, then an outburst of loud calls preceded two birds flying over the treetops towards us, jinking a little as they caught sight of us below, before giving us a complete fly-past view. Such a rare experience provoked a shaking of hands all round! Another bird was watched at length as it stood on a bare branch, posing for photos and an in-depth study of its prehistoric form. We then found three together, which headed off together into the endless woodlands. Hurrah! The ‘bird-of-the-trip’ of course, taking 42 of a possible 45 points! The world population is perhaps less than 300 individuals. PELECANIDAE Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis: We were able to fully enjoy the charisma of these fantastic creatures during our day trip to Prek Toal core conservation area. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a rapidly declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 11,500, with by far and away the largest population (nearly 50% of the world population) at Tonle Sap! We couldn’t decide how many we had seen as they seemed to be everywhere that we looked, so 1500 it is then! CICONIIDAE Milky Stork Mycteria cinerea: The trip across Tonle Sap was worth it when we found at least two in the air over the observation platform. This is probably the only location in the world where one can see it breeding side by side with Painted Storks. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” with a declining world population which in 2000 was estimated at just 6,100. Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: Hundreds filled the air at Prek Toal where we saw many on nests too. Another two were seen en-route to Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and a then some sizable flocks over the Tonle Sap floodplain near Kompong Thom. Another large waterbird with a rapidly declining population. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: Only seen at Prek Toal where we counted about 300. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus: ‘Stork no. 7’ for the tour, we saw up to 6 in a day around the trapaengs of Thmat Baeuy. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: We estimated about 15 birds seen around Prek Toal, then we found a single near Kompong Thom and three over the mangroves at Ream N.P. Greater Adjutant Leptoptilos dubius: We found some ten or more of these immense birds at Prek Toal, the sky going dim as they took to the air! We also had a good look at a perched bird seen from our canoes. Some 20% of the world population (estimated at 700-800 in 2000) inhabit the Tonle Sap area. PITTIDAE Blue Pitta Pitta cyanea: An unconvincing glimpse of a male that passed us by as we stood in a dense thicket on Bokor. Also another was calling there. PARDALOTIDAE Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater) Gerygone sulphurea (H): Heard from the mangroves by Kampot saltpans. I had the first record for Cambodia in 2002 south-east of Kampot, but the coast is very clearly under-watched! IRENIDAE Asian Fairy Bluebird Irena puella: Numerous, vocal and visible at Bokor. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: A few were seen well at Bokor, of the very yellow nominate subspecies. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: A few were seen well in the Thmat Baeuy area. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: A scattering of sightings, mostly in open country. Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides: We eventually tracked down several of these attractive and localised birds around Thmat Baeuy. CORVIDAE Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha: Some fleeting glimpses and flight views in the deciduous forests around Thmat Baeuy, always very wary. [Common/Indochinese Green Magpie Cissa chinensis/hypoleuca: Several birds at Bokor teased us but were too shy to get a good look at, and as both Common and Indochinese Green reportedly occur, we could not assign them to species. One showed yellowish on the breast, which may indicate Indochinese, but my gut feeling about the shriller calls leans me towards Common.] Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: Some good views of these in the Thmat Baeuy area. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia: A couple seen in the bamboo at Thmat Baeuy, also seen near Kratie and very nicely at Bokor. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Widespread along our route, most noticeable around fishermen’s houses at Prek Toal. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Quite a few seen around Angkor Wat and a couple more at Thmat Baeuy and Bokor. Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forests around Thmat Baeuy, but mostly heard only. Large Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina macei: Quite visible and seen regularly around Thmat Baeuy. Indochinese Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina polioptera: A few were seen in the dry forests around Thmat Baeuy, we had good looks particularly on our last morning there. The form concerned is the nominate one, and is the palest subspecies and thereby less similar to Black-winged than some. Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina melaschistos: A single bird was with a mixed flock at Angkor Wat. Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus (NL): One was seen in the same flock as the above. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: We found small flocks at Angkor Wat and at Bokor, with others seen at Thmat Baeuy and Sihanoukville. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: Numerous in the dry forests of Thmat Baeuy. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Some heard around Thmat Baeuy and a few seen at Bokor. This species typically prefers the wetter forests. Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus picatus: A few were seen at Thmat Baeuy, and some at Bokor included one sat on its exposed nest. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: A few seen, only in the dry woodland around Thmat Baeuy. Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: Several scattered sightings, often near to water. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Common and conspicuous in open country, also present in the Thmat Baeuy woodlands. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Seen in most forested areas, with a very pallid leucophaeus bird at Ta Phrom temple. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Seen in small numbers in the Bokor forests. Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested D) Dicrurus hottentottus: A few were seen at Angkor Wat and around Thmat Baeuy. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: A small number were seen in lowland forests. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: A regular scattering of sightings throughout the tour. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Most common in the woodlands around Thmat Baeuy, with other singles seen Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Kratie. Large Wood-Shrike Tephrodornis gularis: Two or three only seen at Thmat Baeuy. Common Wood-Shrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: A very common feature of the dry woodlands around Thmat Bauey. MUSCICAPIDAE Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Some nice looks at these at Angkor Wat where we saw some of the red-bellied philippensis race, plus a couple were seen on the plateau at Bokor. Blue Whistling Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus: One flashed off the roadside between Tbaeng Meanchey and Kompong Thom. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus: Quite visible at Bokor for this normally shy migrant, we found some 15 or more zipping in and out of fruiting trees. Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica: A scattering of birds seen in forest along our route. Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki: Two were seen in the evergreen forest at Bokor. They are always rather elusive and far easier to hear than see. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla: First encountered at Angkor Wat, we saw odd birds throughout the tour usually along forest edge and roadsides. Formerly lumped in Red-breasted Flycatcher F. parva. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: A few of these lovely birds were seen perching out proudly at Bokor. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae: A fine male was seen near the Giant Ibis trapaengs at Thmat Baeuy. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope: A female seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor was the only one of the trip. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Numerous if furtive around the Kompong Thom area, with others seen at Kratie marsh and Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Siberian Blue Robin Luscinia cyane: At least four seen in the forest at Bokor, including a male that passed by while we were trying to see a Blue Pitta. Always a bit of a sneak. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Seen and heard at various locations. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: A typically brief appearance by a vocal male on the lower slopes at Bokor. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: Frequently encountered in open country such as at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Kompong Thom. Most if not all of would be referable to the subspecies stejnegeri. Many authors still include Siberian and European Stonechats S. rubicola in African Stonechat S. torquata using the name Common Stonechat for the enlarged species. Pied Bushchat (P Stonechat) Saxicola caprata: Most often seen around the dry woodland and clearings at Thmat Baeuy. STURNIDAE White-shouldered Starling Sturnus sinensis (NL): After the fumbled identification of some at Thmat Bauey, it was only Richard (having looked properly!) who was sure of at least one. Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus: Many seen well around Thmat Baeuy, in mixed flocks and also at a nest-hole. Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra: Odd pairs seen near Thmat Baeuy and at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Black-collared Starling Sturnus nigricollis: Common, vocal and pleasing, especially in the dry woodland in Preah Vihear province. Vinous-breasted Starling Sturnus burmannicus: A feature of the Thmat Baeuy forest, where we saw up to 25 one day. This leucocephalus form is rather different to the red-billed nominate form one sees in Burma, so watch this space for a split! Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Common and widespread. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: Also common and widespread and often in equal proportions to the previous, though both seemed to disappear in the Thmat Baeuy area. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: Just a few seen, in the Bokor forests. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Just a couple of birds in the Thmat Baeuy area, but seen very well. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Two birds were seen in the Thmat Baeuy woodlands. PARIDAE Great Tit Parus major: An example of one of the grey races seen one morning at Thmat Baeuy. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: A few were noted in the Kompong Thom area, all appeared to be this species rather than Pale Martin which could in theory also occur. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Wintering birds were numerous particularly in open country. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Our last write-in, with some nice views of six sitting on the boats tossing about in the bay at Sihanoukville, then even more around the bridge at Ream N.P. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Scattered sightings of ‘red-rumped’ swallows almost certainly all referred to wintering Red-rumped Swallows rather than the similar Striated Swallow, but a good close look is required really! Some 500 were seen sitting on aerials in Kampot. Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus: At least 20 of these were hawking over the forest at Bokor on our last morning. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps: Most numerous at Ta Phrom, Angkor Wat where they also were heard singing, and also seen at Bokor. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: Singles were seen at Angkor Wat, and then more commonly in the forest at Bokor. Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: This was most numerous in the woodland around Thmat Baeuy. Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni: Not uncommon in the forest at Bokor. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Often encountered in open country and close to human habitation. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi: Seen mostly in the Siem Reap area, with a family in our hotel garden. Others were seen around the place, but it’s not a very memorable bird! Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus: A noisy representative of its family, frequently heard and sometimes seen at Bokor. Grey-eyed Bulbul Iole propinqua (H): Heard along the road at Bokor, but never being hunted down. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: Two very black birds seen at Thmat Baeuy seem to refer to the wintering sinensis race. CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Common on the Tonle Sap inundation zone at Kompong Thom, also seen at Kratie. Bright-headed Cisticola Cisticola exilis (H): A calling bird heard on one of our morning visits to the Kompong Thom area. Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa: Several singing birds seen, with good study possible, in areas of grassy understorey in the dry deciduous forests around Thmat Baeuy. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens: Common in the understorey of the dry deciduous forests at Thmat Baeuy. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: A single singing bird was scrutinised at Thmat Baeuy. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris: Often heard along the Prek Toal waterways and in the grass near Kompong Thom area where we managed to see one briefly. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Odd birds seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Thmat Baeuy. SYLVIIDAE Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata: Always very sneaky, with one seen in stubble at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, commonly heard around Kompong Thom, and a couple more glimpses at Kratie and Bokor. Rusty-rumped Warbler (Pallas’s Grasshopper W) Locustella certhiola: Very commonly heard along the waterways at Prek Toal, with one seen well by those waiting to go up the tree. Also heard at Kratie. Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps: A few were seen reasonably well around Kompong Thom, then most remarkably Dave found a migrant bird in forest edge at 800m at Bokor! They usually prefer the wetter reedbed areas and show a much more striking black brow than the following species, their head pattern looking much like a Sedge Warbler. Manchurian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus tangorum: We struggled but managed some views of these sneaks near Kompong Thom, when we saw up to three on our second morning visit. They didn’t want to come out of their favoured tall dry grass, but their churring calls are diagnostic. Superficially similar to the above, but show less well-marked head patterns with a longer bill and tail. Classified as ‘Vulnerable’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World” due to its small (2,500-10,000) and declining world population. Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: Not uncommon in all wetlands, and we managed to see a few at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom and Kratie. Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon: At least three were seen on our day trip to Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Odd ones seen, particularly in the gardens of our hotel in Siem Reap. Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis: Seen at Prek Toal by the tree platform, then more commonly at Bokor. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: The ‘tacking’ call was often heard, the birds being harder to see though. Found in typical wintering habitat of low scrub often near water, around Kompong Thom and at Kratie. Radde’s Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi: Some very good looks at three or so of these chirpy little birds at Thmat Baeuy. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: Most frequently seen at Bokor, but with us throughout although usually just heard. Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis: A migrant was found at Bokor, signalling its presence with a harsh little ‘jick’ call. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus: A single example of this species was seen at Thmat Baeuy. Often treated as a subspecies of Greenish Warbler P. trochiloides. Pale-legged Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tenellipes: A single bird was glimpsed in the forest at Bokor, with a couple of others heard there. A shy bird that is often hard to observe. White-tailed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus davisoni: We had a good close look at a couple of singing birds at Bokor. Plain-tailed Warbler Seicercus soror: Such a skulking bird! Numerous examples were heard at Bokor, but apart from one or two glimpses they eluded us completely! Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris: A pleasant addition to the swampy edges around Kompong Thom and Kratie, with a loud song to announce its presence. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: We twice encountered pairs of this classic Laughingthrush in the woodlands around Thmat Baeuy, and heard its cacophany of a call more often. Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps (H): Heard in the forest at Bokor. Large Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos: A contender for ‘vocalisation of the trip’, we had a prolonged encounter with a very shy but noisy individual in the forest at Bokor. White-browed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: We had multiple encounters with these vocal birds at Bokor, with a pair joining the above species in the dense forest just to confuse us! Striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis: Definitely common at Bokor, though a little persistence was required to get any views. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: A pair came right over our heads in response to pishing at Bokor. White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca: Many seen at Bokor, with their nasal little call. Probably more visible here than anywhere else I can think of! ALAUDIDAE Australasian Bushlark (Singing B) Mirafra javanica: Quite a few in the dry grasslands around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, though never showing well. Also encountered on the Stung grasslands, they have a more ‘skylark-type’ song and show white outertail feathers in contrast to the next species. Indochinese Bushlark Mirafra marionae: Frequently seen around Thmat Baeuy in typical habitat of open woodland. One of the recent splits out of ‘Rufous-winged’ Bushlark. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: A pair in the fields at Kompong Thom were well-studied, also heard singing at Kampot salt pans. NECTARINIIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: We had some good if brief looks at a handful at Bokor. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied F) Dicaeum ignipectus: We had some good views of one or two at Bokor, these birds are of the cambodianum form which lacks red on the underparts. This race is endemic to western Cambodia and adjacent south-east Thailand, and their pectus is definitely not igni! Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: Only seen at the beginning of the trip around Angkor Wat. Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Anthreptes singalensis: At least three birds were seen on two days at Bokor. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: A few scattered sightings. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Not uncommon in the dry deciduous forests around Thmat Baeuy where some fine males were seen. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: Fairly visible at Bokor where it is represented by the endemic subspecies cambodiana. Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra: Often heard at Bokor, with at least one close encounter on our way up the hill. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: This ‘humble-fellow’ is invading Cambodia from its western borders, we saw it at Siem Riep and in some numbers near Kompong Thom. Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus: An impressive member of its family, we found them at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom and at Kratie. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: The urban sparrow in much of Asia. Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus: At least two birds watched feeding along the track at Bokor were another indication that migrants were dropping in here. Mekong Wagtail Motacilla samveasnae: Another of the real specialities of this tour is this handsome bird, only recently discovered and described. We were able to study several ‘doing their thing’ of scrambling around in the bushes that cover the mid-river islets on the Mekong at Kratie. Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis: A couple of examples of this form were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Eastern Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] macronyx: A few individuals of this form were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, Kompong Thom and Kratie. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: A single flew over calling at Bokor. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Not uncommon in open country such around Kompong Thom. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Only seen around Thmat Baeuy where we found a small flock on small paddies in a clearing. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: Quite numerous around Ang Trapaeng Thmor with 40+ seen there, also found around Kompong Thom and Kratie. Asian Golden Weaver Ploceus hypoxanthus: At least two seen at Kratie ‘town marsh’, with a stunning male perched up for us in the waterside vegetation. Classified as ‘Near Threatened’ in BirdLife’s “Threatened Birds of the World”. The main threat is the conversion of its preferred wetland habitats to agriculture. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: Some ample flocks seen near Kompong Thom, although they seemed to lack any fully red males. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: A few seen in the forest at Thmat Baeuy, then a score were seen at Kratie. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: The only ones seen were three at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. FRINGILLIDAE Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola: Only seen on one afternoon at Kompong Thom where they were in good numbers, with several flocks in the air as well as some smart perched birds to look at. Chestnut Bunting Emberiza rutila: The last bird on the list, but a first for Cambodia no less! We struggled to get views of some 25 that shot into a roost in tall grass, where they duly hid from us (in fact, my only view was fortunately of a smart male!) The tinkling and twittering sounds that I recorded coming from the same spot the following morning seemed to correlate to the same, albeit a hard-to-recognise subsong, coming from multiple songsters! My experience of this winter migrant is typically in similar habitat, though in the hills of north-western Thailand. MAMMALS Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: Two very attractive chestnut-coloured variants of this were seen at Bokor, plus others heard there. Interestingly, The Wildlife Survey of Bokor NP (Ed N. Neath, 2001 WCS) describes two sub-species for Cambodia and states that animals from the south-west, ie Bokor, have all-black backs!? These are attributed to R. b. leucognus. Finlayson’s Squirrel (Variable S) Callosciurus finlaysoni: The deep rufescent squirrel we saw well at Angkor Wat..Small blackish squirrels seen briefly along our route were probably also this highly variable beastie. Cambodian Striped Squirrel Tamiops rodolphei: These tiny yet fast things were seen at Thmat Baeuy and again at Bokor. Indochinese Ground Squirrel (Berdmore’s S) Menetes berdmorei: At least one of these stripe-sided animals seen well in the dry woodland near Thmat Baeuy. Tomb Bat sp Taphozous sp.: Several seen within the main temple at Angkor Wat, with one individual showing particularly well by torchlight. The most likely species candidate is the Black-bearded T B (T. melanopogon). Local knowledge would be required to confirm this. Crab-eating Macaque (Long-tailed M) Macaca fascicularis: We saw a few at Ream N. P., one at Prek Toal, plus Kevin saw 9 or more at Siem Riep. Pileated Gibbon Hylobates pileatus (H): The distinctive ‘song’ of this increasingly rare, elusive and extremely wary mammal was heard distantly at Bokor. Northern Tree- Shrew Tupaia belangeri: One one seen at very close range at Bokor, showed a strong dark mask outlined in orangey-buff. This species has a very wide distribution across Southern and South-east Asia and is also referred to as the Malay T-S. There are two species of Tree- Shrew in Cambodia, the other being Dendrogale murina, the Northern Smooth-tailed Tree-Shrew. The N S-t T-S has short hairs on a relatively longer tail, which did not concur with our sighting at Bokor. Irrawaddy Dolphin Orcaella brevirostris: Up to six in the deep water pools in the Mekong at Kratie, and we had some nice views of a couple that announced their presence with a quiet breath as they broke the surface. Apparently just 70 survive in the Mekong and this population is sadly declining, largely due to by-catch from gill-netting, and collisions with fast boats. Eld’s Deer Cervus eldii: We startled a group of ten or more in the forest at Thmat Baeuy while owling, though never seeing much more than their eyeshine! It is able to walk on both its hooves and on the undersides of its hardened pasterns, an adaptation to the habitats in which it lives, ie flat, often sandy deciduous forests subject to flooding (including monsoonal). Threatened due to habitat loss (conversion for agriculture) and hunting. Many thanks to Kevin for doing additional research on the mammals we saw during the tour.

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 Cambodia feb/mar 2005 (Birdquest)