THE BEST OF THAILAND AND CAMBODIA
15 - 30 JANUARY 2005
TOUR REPORT
LEADER: DAVE FARROW
GROUP MEMBERS: MIKE BALDING, ED HIRSCH, SALLY HIRSCH, JOHN HOYE, AUDREY McCARTHY, JUDI SMITH and PHIL SMITH.
This was the second Easybird 'Best of Thailand and Cambodia' tour, and was once again an excellent and very enjoyable trip, combining some of the avian and cultural sights of both countries, and of course mention must be made of the terrific food!
We began our journey at Siem Riep and the great temples of Angkor Wat, where soon after our arrival we made our way to one of the most enduring images of the site, the Ta Phrom temple. It is left as much of the area once was, with encroaching jungle and great tree roots snaking over the crumbling walls of this once important temple. The large trees around here hosted noisy Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeets, Black Baza, Lineated Barbets, our first Black-capped Kingfisher, and Blue Rock Thrushes bounded along the stone towers.
We made an early start to the Tonle Sap and Prek Toal Sanctuary, heading off across the lake in a long-tail boat armed with a splendid picnic. We watched hundreds of Whiskered Terns hovering over the surface of this great fish-rich lake or perching on the bamboo fish-fences, foraging Brown-headed Gulls and Indian Cormorants flying in long lines across the skyline. After a cruise through the floating village of Prek Toal, we slowed to a more ambient pace for birding, and watched from our canoes as the air filled with Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Spot-billed Pelicans, Asian Openbills, Oriental Darters, Brahminy Kites and the massive Lesser Adjutant.
We visited the area of Ang Trapaeng Thmor, an area of agricultural land surrounding a large reservoir which is noted for its population of Sarus Cranes in the dry season, very rare in South-east Asia. After a bumpy ride over what is supposed to be the main road to Thailand, we turned off into a rich area of rice fields and soon found our first group of Cranes, standing by a pool amongst the stubble. We continued across the wide expanses of this area, finding several Eastern Marsh Harriers, a single male Pied Harrier, Bluethroat, Yellow Wagtails of the race macronyx, Yellow-breasted Buntings, White- shouldered and Black-collared Starlings and an obliging Plaintive Cuckoo. On the lily-covered reservoir, large numbers of waterbirds swirled about with Lesser Whistling Ducks, Comb Ducks and Cotton Pygmy Geese, Black-backed Swamphens, Painted Storks, Black-headed Ibis, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas and Pied Kingfishers. We watched clouds of birds joining the swirling smoke and flames of burning rice stubble, Black Drongos and Black Kites picking off the fleeing insects.
We still had time to see Angkor Wat in all its glory, and the following morning we watched the spectacle of the sun rising over the ornate spires of the temple, with the accompaniment of Paddyfield Pipits, Indian Roller and Coppersmith Barbet. After a breakfast on site, we explored this ancient temple complex and others, such as the impressive Bayon temple with its huge carved Buddha faces.
Flying onwards to Bangkok, we headed out into the field once more, visiting the coastal saltpans of Samut Sakhon as we headed west. A rainstorm just prior to our arrival kept temperatures down, but soon we were all wearing big sticky snowshoes of mud which rather hampered progress! After a couple of hours enjoying Broad-billed and Curlew Sandpipers, Red Knot, Red-necked and Long-toed Stints, Lesser Sand and Pacific Golden Plovers and Gull-billed Tern, local birders beckoned us over to view a splendid Spoon-billed Sandpiper. Feeding in a shallow pan it stumbled about waving its curious beak, and ended up sleeping through most of our close approach. The nearby mangrove creeks and numerous canals hosted colourful Collared and Black-capped Kingfishers, Pied Fantail, Golden-bellied Gerygone, Oriental Reed Warbler, and to top off a great morning we all had a stunning close look at a bathing Slaty-breasted Rail. As we headed further west we saw a swarm of Black-eared Kites by the highway, plus multi-coloured Chestnut-headed and Green Bee-eaters.
And so to Kaeng Krachan, the largest of Thailand's National Parks. Here we spent our time trying to extract some of the avian jewels from this rich and diverse forest. In the lowland sections we found Tickell's Brown, Oriental Pied and Great Hornbills, Green-eared and Blue-eared Barbets, Green-billed Malkoha, Brown-backed Needletail, Asian Barred Owlet, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Blue-winged Leafbird, Greater Racket-tailed and Spangled Drongos, Sultan Tits, Ochraceous, Ashy, Stripe-throated and Buff-vented Bulbuls, Great Iora, Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Large Woodshrikes, Hill Blue Flycatcher, White-browed Scimitar Babblers, and in mixed feeding flocks we found Black- naped Monarch, Eastern Crowned and Sulphur-breasted Warblers. Various woodpeckers appeared, such as a trio of the mighty Great Slaty Woodpeckers flying by, Greater Flameback and diminutive Heart-spotted Woodpeckers. We eventually ran to ground a pair of gorgeous Orange-breasted Trogons that had a nest in a shattered stump. The road along the ridge was open after a year of closure due to monsoon damage, and we were able to find plenty of good birds such as Black and Crested Serpent Eagles, Little Cuckoo Dove, Mountain Imperial and Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, vocal Banded Bays and a single Drongo Cuckoo, Greater Green Leafbird, Ashy Minivet, Verditer, Rufous-browed and Dark-sided Flycatchers, Yellow-bellied Warblers, Radde's Warblers feeding on the roadside, Striated Yuhinas, Spot-necked and Grey-throated Babblers, a great look at a showy White-hooded Babbler and a Streaked Spiderhunter that fed around banana flowers.
An early morning expedition into the forest secured us a view of Brown Hawk Owl, and we had superlative view of a pair of Red-bearded Bee-eaters, so good that they were voted 'bird-of-the-trip!' Kaeng Krachan is always good for seeing mammals and we saw Dusky Leaf Monkeys, Common Gibbon, Black Giant Squirrel and had a brief view of a Fea's Muntjac as it skipped across a jungle stream.
From Kaeng Krachan we made the short drive to the coast (pausing en-route to look at a Spotted Owlet on a wire) and headed for Laem Phak Bia, a sandy spit protruding into the Gulf of Siam. We boarded small boats and took a pleasant ride through mangrove creeks out to the promontory, where we found some rather ugly attempts to construct a breakwater, apparently following the erosion of the spit. Here to greet us was a Pomarine Jaeger (a rare bird here in Thailand) plus our target of Malaysian Plovers, roosting on the disturbed beach. Patrolling over the sea were Greater Crested and Common Terns, Brown-headed and a single Pallas's Gull. The mangrove bushes sparkled with brightly coloured Collared Kingfishers and a huge basking Water Monitor. On the nearby saltpans we found both Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers, large numbers of Little Cormorants, Caspian and Little Terns, Heuglin's Gull, Zitting Cisticola and Plain Prinia.
We headed back to Bangkok and took a short flight to Chiang Mai, where we paused for the night before heading out in the pre-dawn to the Royal Project at Huai Hong Khrai. Immediately on arrival we were treated to the sight of a male Green Peafowl perched up by the lakeshore, then more and more females kept appearing until we reached a total of 13 birds in view! We added Lesser Whistling Ducks, Little Heron and White-breasted Waterhen, and enjoyed a good look at a Thick-billed Warbler before returning to Chiang Mai. We ascended the hill on the edge of town where we paid a visit to the ornate temple of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, with Asian House Martins flying overhead. After another splendid lunch we paused by the canals on the edge of town and had great looks at a Wire-tailed Swallow. Our final halt of the tour was a resort set amid dry woodland at the foot of Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain. Here the cross-section of habitats and altitudes provide for exciting birding, and we began in the hotel grounds where we found a dainty Collared Falconet, Pied Bushchat and Brown Shrike. Explorations of the mountain began at the drier lower altitudes, where we found Grey-capped Woodpecker, Coppersmith Barbets, Large Cuckooshrike, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Rosy Minivet, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatches and Blue-throated Flycatcher.
Moving up to the top of the mountain and the cool summit, we found Yellow-bellied Fantail, Eye- browed and Grey-sided Thrushes feeding together in a fruiting bush, Blyth's Leaf and Ashy-throated Warblers, a dapper male Orange-flanked Bush Robin, Green-tailed and Mrs Gould's Sunbirds buzzed around the rhododendron flowers and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, Chestnut-tailed Minlas and Rufous-winged Fulvettas all pottered about, unconcerned by our very close proximity! We were lucky to find a pair of tame Rufous-throated Partridges, watched feeding just yards from us. Alas a male White-browed Shortwing wasn't so obliging, but we had a good look at Slaty-bellied Tesias scolding us from a brush pile, and a fat Ashy Woodpigeon sat high in the trees.
At middle altitudes we found Bay Woodpecker, Golden-throated Barbet, White-throated Fantail, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo, Grey-chinned and Short-billed Minivets, Maroon Oriole, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Striated, Mountain, Flavescent, and the localised White-headed Bulbul, White- gorgetted Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Hill Prinia, Mountain Tailorbird, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Chestnut-vented Nuthatches, Yellow-cheeked Tits, White-browed Shrike Babbler, Dark-backed Sibia, and gorgeous Silver-eared Mesias. On the productive edges of the thick evergreen forest we had stunning looks at Spectacled Barwing and Rufous-backed Sibia, and we had a prolonged look at three Mountain Bamboo Partridges feeding on the roadside. A foray inside the forest resulted in some great looks at tame Dark-sided Thrushes feeding on the track, and a very brief view of a Rusty-naped Pitta that decided to cross at the same time!
We visited the campsite to see the resident Black-tailed Crake marching about on the short grass, and around the impressive Vachirathan waterfall we found White-capped and Plumbeous Water Redstarts, Blue Whistling Thrushes and a showy pair of Slaty-backed Forktails. Another look in the lower altitudes provided a good view of Grey-headed Parakeets, White-rumped Shama and a restless White- browed Piculet, while in a flowering tree we found a flock Chestnut-tailed Starlings while Crested Treeswifts zoomed overhead. Then, inevitably, it was time to depart, and after a final supper by the Ping River in Chiang Mai it was time to head for the airport and head our separate ways, content with a great taste of some of the best birding in South-east Asia.
SYSTEMATIC LIST
Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).
PHASIANIDAE Rufous-throated Partridge Arborophila rufogularis: One of the most memorable encounters on the whole trip, when a pair quietly emerged behind a small kitchen on the summit of Doi Inthanon and fed for several minutes just in front of us. Scaly-breasted Partridge Arborophila chloropus (H): Frequently heard calling from dense forest at Kaeng Krachan, though never close. Mountain Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola fytchii: Another superb encounter with a shy gamebird, with three birds that emerged to feed along the roadside at dawn one morning on Doi Inthanon. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus: Three were seen on the road into Kaeng Krachan, plus two more were glimpsed in the forest there. Also heard calling at Huai Hong Khrai. Grey Peacock Pheasant Polyplectron bicalcaratum (H): Several distant birds heard calling at Kaeng Krachan. Green Peafowl Pavo muticus: A record turnout by these fantastic birds at Huai Hong Khrai. At dawn a male popped up and stood vainly for all to see, then up to 12 females came out of the forest and furtively fed along the lakeshore in the cool dawn.
DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck (L Treeduck) Dendrocygna javanica: A small flock were seen at Prek Toal, a couple of hundred on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then another 50 were seen flying around at Huai Hong Khrai.
ANATIDAE Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos: A hundred or more seen on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, a scarce bird in South-east Asia. Cotton Pygmy-Goose Nettapus coromandelianus: Quite a few seen around the lake and pools at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Garganey Anas querquedula: A handful of these with the other duck at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, although many more were probably hidden in the lush vegetation.
TURNICIDAE Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica: A brief glimpse of this tiny fellow when he was put to flight by an Eastern Marsh Harrier that made a grab for it!
PICIDAE Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus (H): Heard calling at Kaeng Krachan and Doi Inthanon. White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea: A brief look at one in the riverside trees low down on Doi Inthanon. Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus: Three of these tiny fellows were seen at Doi Inthanon. Stripe-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos atratus: A single bird moved with a mixed feeding flock in the forest at Doi Inthanon. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis (H): Heard in the dry woodland on Doi Inthanon. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus (H): A furtive bird was calling at Kaeng Krachan. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus (H): Calling distantly at Kaeng Krachan. Greater Flameback (G Goldenback) Chrysocolaptes lucidus: Some flight views of these as they buzzed around at Kaeng Krachan. Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: A cackling bird flew past us at Doi Inthanon. Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente: A nice surprise to find a pair of these at Kaeng Krachan. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: A great look at three birds that gave us a magnificent fly-past at Kaeng Krachan.
MEGALAIMIDAE Great Barbet Megalaima virens (H): Heard distantly at Doi Inthanon. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata: A single seen at Angkor Wat, also heard at Doi Inthanon. Green-eared Barbet Megalaima faiostricta: A single bird was seen at Kaeng Krachan, perched up alongside the Heart-spotted Woodpeckers. Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Seen in the higher forests of Doi Inthanon, also heard on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: A good view of one on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan, also heard at Doi Inthanon. Moustached Barbet Megalaima incognita (H): Heard on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis: A couple of these small barbets showed poorly at Kaeng Krachan. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Some good looks at several of these that we encountered in drier open habitats.
BUCEROTIDAE Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris: Several birds were seen well at Kaeng Krachan, plus a nest that was yet to be walled-up. Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: A great look at several of these prehistoric beasts at Kaeng Krachan, coming to a fruiting tree on the ridge. Tickell's Brown Hornbill (Rusty-cheeked H) Anorrhinus tickelli: Our only sighting was of a flock at Kaeng Krachan, passing by at dawn on our first morning there.
UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe (Eurasian H) Upupa epops: Only seen briefly in the dry woodland at Doi Inthanon.
TROGONIDAE Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios: We eventually had some great looks at a pair at Kaeng Krachan.
CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Commonly encountered in dry lowland country along our route. Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: A few of these at Kaeng Krachan were seen well as they perched high in the trees, calling raucously.
ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Several along the creeks and watersides of Ang Trapaeng Thmor and the Tonle Sap, with one other seen at Samut Sakhon.
HALCYONIDAE White-throated Kingfisher (W-breasted K) Halcyon smyrnensis: A scattering of sightings along the way. Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata: Several of these striking birds seen around Prek Toal, and in the salt pan area around Samut Sakhon and Laem Phak Bia. Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris: Some superb examples of these stunning birds in coastal habitats at Samut Sakhon, and then most emphatically at Laem Phak Bia.
CERYLIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Several good examples of these hovering and diving at Ang Trapaeng Thmor.
MEROPIDAE Red-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis amictus: Voted 'bird-of-the-trip' by this group, and deservedly so! We enjoyed prolonged views of a pair at Kaeng Krachan, time enough to get our heads around the eye-watering mixture of colours! Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: At least three were seen at Kaeng Krachan, although somewhat eclipsed by the above species! Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Numerous examples were seen on the wires between Phet'buri and Kaeng Krachan. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Seen frequently around our Cambodian sites. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: Some great first looks at these en-route to Kaeng Krachan, plus several more seen around there.
CUCULIDAE Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides (H): Vocal in the forests of Doi Inthanon. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii: Atypically showy this year, Sally spotted the first of three in a day on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan, and then another in the dry forest on Doi Inthanon. Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: A perched female spotted by Ed gave us a good show at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Asian Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx maculatus: A poor view of a female inside the forest on our last morning at Doi Inthanon. Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: A single silent bird was seen well on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea (H): A very vocal bird in the pre-dawn around our accommodations in Thailand, however none availed themselves for viewing. Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis: Some typical encounters with these arch-skulkers at Prek Toal and Kaeng Krachan.
CENTROPODIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Regularly heard and a few seen along our way.
PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: A couple of these large fellows seen at Angkor Wat on our first afternoon. Grey-headed Parakeet Psittacula finschii: A good look at a couple of birds on our last morning of the tour at Doi Inthanon. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: Several good examples were seen on our first afternoon, at the Ta Phrom temple, plus a handful more at Ang Trapaeng Thmor.
APODIDAE Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia brevirostris: A number of Swiftlets seen over the mangroves near Samut Sakhon appeared to be of this species. Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus: A flock of eight circled in the sky at Kaeng Krachan. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: Seen almost daily, over both forest and their favoured open country habitat. Fork-tailed Swift (Pacific S) Apus pacificus: A small number were seen at Doi Inthanon.
HEMIPROCNIDAE Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: Some flight views of a few at the Park entrance at Doi Inthanon, plus an unidentified one (this species or Grey-rumped) on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan.
STRIGIDAE White-fronted Scops Owl Otus sagittatus (H): A comedy of errors almost, when our best efforts to see this at Kaeng Krachan were thwarted by an endless convoy of cars with full headlights on, passing at just the wrong time! At least two birds were heard, with understandably neither coming close to the road! Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H): One calling at Kaeng Krachan remained unseen. Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides: Several encounters with these in the daytime, at Kaeng Krachan, Huai Hong Khrai and Doi Inthanon, perhaps the best look was of a pair during our last breakfast at the Inthanon Highland Resort. Spotted Owlet Athene brama: A mostly silhouette view of one on a wire near Kaeng Krachan. Also heard at Inthanon Highland Resort. Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata: Heard and then seen in the dawn at Kaeng Krachan.
COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon (R Dove) (feral) Columba livia: Available. Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis: A good look at the underside of this fat fellow as he lingered in the big trees at Doi Inthanon summit, Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: The 'default' dove in lowland areas. Red Collared Dove (R Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: A few seen in open dry country such as in the Kaeng Krachan area. Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps: A single bird sat up obligingly at Kaeng Krachan. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: A few seen at Kaeng Krachan, with a good look at one or two on the road but mostly seen shooting off into the forest! Peaceful Dove (Zebra D) Geopelia striata: A few seen around Bangkok and along the Thai coast. Yellow-vented Green Pigeon Treron seimundi: A rather locally-distributed South-east Asian endemic, we had fine views of one in a fruiting tree on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia: Some great looks at these on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan, uttering their strange double-thump calls.
GRUIDAE Sarus Crane Grus antigone: Some good looks at a family party alongside the road at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with several other groups seen distantly. Rather easier to find than last year!
RALLIDAE Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus: A fantastic prolonged close view of one bathing in a tidal creek right next to our vehicles near Samut Sakhon. Mike also spotted an immature near Laem Phak Bia. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Only seen at Huai Hong Khrai where a couple were behaving territorially. Also heard at Prek Toal. Black-tailed Crake Porzana bicolor: A fine display by a confiding bird at Doi Inthanon, emerging onto the grass to feed as we sat comfortably in our minibuses. Rare in Thailand and only known from three sites, though it ranges west to Bhutan. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus: Significant numbers were seen on the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Singles were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and Huai Hong Khrai.
SCOLOPACIDAE Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: A single was seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then plenty more on the saltpans along the Thai coast. Common Redshank Tringa totanus: A small number were seen near Samut Sakhon. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis: Rather numerous on the Thai coastal saltpans. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: Seen at Angkor Wat, Ang Trapaeng Thmor, plus a few more along the Thai coast. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: A single bird was seen at Inthanon Highland Resort. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: Just a couple seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, also at Laem Phak Bia. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Odd singles seen along our way.. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Always a delight to meet this global traveller, we found half-a- dozen near Samut Sakhon. Red Knot Calidris canutus: An impressive flock of 120+ near Samut Sakhon. Sanderling Calidris alba: A single on the saltpans near Laem Phak Bia. Spoon-billed Sandpiper Calidris pygmeus: After a lengthy search in some very sticky mud, we were lucky enough to have this located for us (by the rather more mobile local birder) and enjoyed some fantastic views of this eventually confiding individual. Our perseverance paid off, as not all visiting birders succeeded in finding it. Red-necked Stint (Rufous-n S) Calidris ruficollis: Good numbers seen on the Samut Sakhon saltpans, plus a few were seen near Laem Phak Bia. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: Fewer than the above, with a score seen at Samut Sakhon and a few near Laem Phak Bia. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Plenty of these seen at Samut Sakhon, plus a few more near Laem Phak Bia. Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus: Nearly as numerous as the above at Samut Sakhon, with a handful also seen near Laem Phak Bia.
JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: A good number of these around the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus: Fewer than the above but nevertheless quite visible around the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor.
CHARADRIIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor and on the saltpans along the Thai coast. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: Some good looks at small flocks of these on the Thai coastal saltpans. Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola: A single bird near Samut Sakhon, and a group of a dozen near Laem Phak Bia.. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: A couple seen near Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and a single near Laem Phak Bia. Kentish Plover (Snowy P) Charadrius alexandrinus: Seen in some numbers on the Thai coastal saltpans. Malaysian Plover Charadrius peronii: Three were seen roosting at Laem Phak Bia, probably a little confused by the construction of the breakwater around them. Lesser Sand Plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus: Good numbers of these scattered across the saltpans at Samut Sakhon and Laem Phak Bia. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: A few were picked out on the saltpans near Laem Phak Bia. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: Only seen around Kaeng Krachan, particularly along the dusty road in.
LARIDAE Pomarine Jaeger Stercorarius pomarinus: A nice surprise to find one of these sat atop the bulldozed sand at Laem Phak Bia. In flight it did show some oil stains on the belly, but it gave us a good show when it went after a Brown-headed Gull! Rare in Thailand, typically favouring more pelagic waters. Heuglin's Gull (Siberian Gull) Larus heuglini: A first-year immature was seen on the Laem Phak Bia saltpans. Pallas's Gull (Great Black-headed Gull) Larus ichthyaetus: A single immature bird gave us a fly-past on the Laem Phak Bia spit. Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus: There were quite a number on the Tonle Sap, and hundreds on the saltpans at Samut Sakhon. There were also plenty at Laem Phak Bia. Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: A single bird on the Samut Sakhon saltpans.
Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: A flock of 26 sat on the saltpans at Laem Phak Bia. Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii: A single bird flew past the spit at Laem Phak Bia. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: A couple of winter-plumaged birds were fishing around the spit at Laem Phak Bia. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: A few were seen on the saltpans at Laem Phak Bia. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Hundreds or even thousands of birds were swarming around the Tonle Sap, plus we found many more along the Thai coastal saltpans.
ACCIPITRIDAE Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes: Two were seen over the forest-clad temples at Angkor, and then a single soaring over the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus: A single was seen en-route from Doi Inthanon. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Some five or more birds were seen around Ang Trapaeng Thmor, some of them joining the melee around the burning rice stubble. These would be resident birds of the race govinda. Black-eared Kite Milvus lineatus: One was seen well at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, then we saw a remarkable gathering of 26 by the roadside en-route to Kaeng Krachan. These birds would be winter visitors from northern Asia. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Plenty seen in the Tonle Sap area, with a few others seen along the Thai coast. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela: A couple of birds were seen really well at Kaeng Krachan. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: Some good examples of these seen around the Ang Trapaeng Thmor paddies. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos: A male was seen well near Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: A couple of split-second views were all that was seen of this bird! Shikra Accipiter badius: A single bird was seen near Kaeng Krachan Country Club. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: Seen twice cruising over the forest at Kaeng Krachan. Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: Two were seen at Kaeng Krachan, one that perched briefly to show its long crest.
FALCONIDAE Collared Falconet (Red-thighed F) Microhierax caerulescens: A nice view of one of these delightful raptors in the grounds of our Inthanon hotel, plus two others seen nearby in the dry woodland. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: A single bird flew by our Inthanon hotel.
PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: A large raft of these were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor.
ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Nice to see this bird in good numbers in South-east Asia. We saw 50 or more around Prek Toal.
PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: In good numbers on the Thai saltpans, plus a single seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Indian Cormorant (I Shag) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: Great numbers around the Tonle Sap where they graced the sky in long lines and perched on the bamboo fish fences. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: A fair number with the above species around the Tonle Sap.
ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Most numerous around the Cambodian wetlands and along the Thai coast. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Fairly numerous around Prek Toal, with more seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and the Thai coastal wetlands. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Good numbers seen around the Cambodian wetlands. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: A fair number seen on the shores of the Tonle Sap and Ang Trapaeng Thmor, and also at the Samut Sakhon and Laem Phak Bia saltpans. Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia: A small number were identified at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: A scattering of sightings along our route. Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus: Recorded almost daily, however birds at the Tonle Sap and along the Thai coast probably included some Javan Pond Heron A. speciosa, not distinguishable from Chinese in winter plumage. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Singles were seen at Samut Sakhon, Laem Phak Bia and Huai Hong Khrai, with many more being furtive along the waterways of the Tonle Sap. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: A few singles seen along our route.
THRESKIORNITHIDAE Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: A dozen of these by the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor.
PELICANIDAE Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis: Good numbers of these giants feeding around the Tonle Sap on the abundant fish. They form part of the 3000 strong colony here that is the only one in South-east Asia, and the largest population of the species in the world.
CICONIIDAE Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: A large number of these were seen around the lake at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans: One of the most numerous birds at Prek Toal, with hundreds in the air together. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus: We saw two of these giants in the air on our canoe ride at Prek Toal.
PITTIDAE Rusty-naped Pitta Pitta oatesi: A freak sighting on the jeep track at Doi Inthanon when we were waiting expectantly for a Dark-sided Thrush to emerge from the forest edge, and this cheeky fellow bounced across the track, and away… Only the second time that I have actually seen this species on the Thailand tour since 1997.
PARDALOTIDAE Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater) Gerygone sulphurea: A nice view of one in mangroves near Samut Sakhon, plus another heard and seen in flight at Laem Phak Bia.
IRENIDAE Asian Fairy Bluebird Irena puella: Frequently heard at Kaeng Krachan, with some views acquired of birds up in the canopy. Greater Green Leafbird Chloropsis sonnerati: A male popped up by the ridge road at Kaeng Krachan. Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis: At least six seen at Kaeng Krachan on our first day, then a few more were seen on Doi Inthanon. Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: Several sightings in their favoured dry woodland habitat on Doi Inthanon.
LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: A couple of individuals were seen at our Inthanon hotel.
CORVIDAE Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: A couple were seen badly in dry woodland at Huai Hong Khrai. Quite different to European birds, the local leucotis race shows a white face and a black crown. Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis (H): Several birds calling loudly at Kaeng Krachan, however no result in views of this shy bird! Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae (H): One was calling on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: A few of these seen around our circuit. Ashy Wood Swallow Artamus fuscus: Frequently encountered along roadside wires and even in Chiang Mai city! Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus (H): Heard distantly at Doi Inthanon. Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Some nice views of these in the early mornings on Doi Inthanon. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: A good show by a pair or more of these in the dry woodland on Doi Inthanon. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos: A single was seen at Kaeng Krachan, and another at Doi Inthanon. Rosy Minivet Pericrocotus roseus: A couple of small flocks seen at lower altitudes on Doi Inthanon. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: A couple of singles seen at Kaeng Krachan, plus another at Doi Inthanon. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris: A few were seen in the evergreen forests on Doi Inthanon. Short-billed Minivet Pericrocotus brevirostris: Some great views of these in the evergreen forests on Doi Inthanon, including a nest high in a tree that was being defended by the pair. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Seen frequently at Kaeng Krachan and a couple more at Doi Inthanon. Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike Hemipus picatus: A few of these seen at Kaeng Krachan and Doi Inthanon. Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: Found around the summit bog on Doi Inthanon. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: A couple of singles seen on Doi Inthanon. Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: Seen in the garden of our Bangkok hotel plus a couple more around the Samut Sakhon saltpans. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: The common drongo of open country, we saw a spectacular concentration around the burning rice stubble at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Regularly encountered in forest. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: Like the above, particularly in Kaeng Krachan. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer: Only seen in prime evergreen forest on Doi Inthanon. Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested D) Dicrurus hottentottus: Plenty of these were seen at Kaeng Krachan. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Visible at Kaeng Krachan, also seen briefly at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and heard in the dryer forests of Doi Inthanon. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: Odd individuals encountered at Kaeng Krachan, Doi Inthanon and Angkor Wat. Asian Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: A single appeared briefly with a mixed bird-flock at Kaeng Krachan. Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei: Several popped out briefly in the forest at Kaeng Krachan. Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis: Three birds seen at Kaeng Krachan on our first day there.
MUSCICAPIDAE Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Seen around the temples of Angkor Wat plus a single seen in the flowering trees at Doi Inthanon. Blue Whistling Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus: Quite a few seen on Doi Inthanon, around the summit and in the forest. Two forms were seen; the typical yellow-billed eugenei and the wintering black-billed nominate form. Dark-sided Thrush Zoothera marginata: A fantastic view of two on the jeep track at Doi Inthanon, that after flushing from the track, came back to it and then boldly fed in the leaf litter just yards in front of us! Grey-sided Thrush Turdus feae: Some brief looks at one in a fruiting tree on Doi Inthanon summit. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus: Some exceptional views of these normally shy birds on Doi Inthanon, feeding in fruiting trees at the summit. White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx montana: A grinding search around the boardwalk on Doi Inthanon summit briefly revealed a male hiding in the shadows. Dark-sided Flycatcher Muscicapa sibirica: A couple of sightings of this drab fellow at Kaeng Krachan. Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica: A fleeting look at one at Angkor Wat on our first afternoon. Red-throated Flycatcher (Taiga F) Ficedula albicilla: Often seen on the Thai section of our tour, alas none with red throats! White-gorgetted Flycatcher Ficedula monileger: A bird briefly came up to check us out on Doi Inthanon. Rufous-gorgetted Flycatcher Ficedula solitaris: A singing bird played hide and seek with us on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni (H): Heard in the evergreen forest on Doi Inthanon. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: Some good views of several of these at Kaeng Krachan and Doi Inthanon. Large Niltava Niltava grandis: A furtive male was seen briefly, plus a very furtive female, on Doi Inthanon. Pale Blue Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor (H): Heard singing its sweet song on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: A pair skulked in a bamboo-rich gully on Doi Inthanon, plus another male was seen briefly at Kaeng Krachan. Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas: A couple of examples were seen at Kaeng Krachan. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Singles were seen in the forest at Doi Inthanon and at Kaeng Krachan. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope: A bird calling from a bush at Ang Trapaeng Thmor was glimpsed as it flew out. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica: Two were seen in the rice stubble at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Orange-flanked Bush-Robin Tarsiger cyanurus: One or maybe two stunning males were seen well around the summit bog on Doi Inthanon. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Seen almost daily, particularly around gardens. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: Heard singing its liquid song from dense thickets at Kaeng Krachan, and we managed some brief views at Huai Hong Khrai and Doi Inthanon. White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Three birds performed well on the Vachirathan waterfall at Doi Inthanon. Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Two were seen with the above at Doi Inthanon. Black-backed Forktail Enicurus immaculatus: A brief view for the leader of one flying upstream at Doi Inthanon. Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus: A nice surprise to get some good looks of a pair at the Vachirathan waterfall. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: A good number seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, with a couple of singles elsewhere. Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata: A few in the fields near our Inthanon hotel.
STURNIDAE Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus: A small party was seen in the flowering Bombax trees at Doi Inthanon entrance gate. White-shouldered Starling Sturnus sinensis: A couple of small flocks were seen near Ang Trapaeng Thmor, an infrequently seen species that is a winter visitor from South China. Black-collared Starling Sturnus nigricollis: Plenty seen in the woodland near Ang Trapaeng Thmor, also heard at the Inthanon Highland Resort. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Recorded on most days, although less numerous than the following species. White-vented Myna Acridotheres grandis: Seen in good numbers, but never near thick forest. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: Several birds were seen well at Kaeng Krachan. This is now split from the Southern Hill Myna of India in the 'Starling & Mynas' book (Feare & Craig 1999).
SITTIDAE Chestnut-vented Nuthatch Sitta nagaensis: A few of these were seen in the evergreen forest of Doi Inthanon. Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Three birds were seen in dry woodland on Doi Inthanon, one of which conveniently flew in to inspect us. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Two were seen poorly in the early morning on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan.
CERTHIIDAE Brown-throated Treecreeper Certhia discolor: A brief look at a vocal bird in the forests on Doi Inthanon.
PARIDAE Yellow-cheeked Tit Parus spilonotus: Several good looks at these impressive tits in the evergreen forest of Doi Inthanon. Sultan Tit Melanochlora sultanea: A look at some of these big noisy tits on our first morning at Kaeng Krachan, where they also mobbed an Asian Barred Owlet.
HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin Riparia riparia: Two were seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Numerous throughout Cambodia and on the southern section of our Thai route. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii: A good look at these attractive swallows along the canal at Chiang Mai. [Striated/Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo striolata/daurica: Small flocks were seen at Doi Inthanon but never perched and therefore not correctly assigned to species. Both occur, striolata being resident and daurica a winter visitor.] Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus: Small flocks were seen at Doi Suthep and Doi Inthanon.
PYCNONOTIDAE Striated Bulbul Pycnonotus striatus: A couple of these handsome bulbuls were seen in the evergreen forest on Doi Inthanon. Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps: Two were seen at Angkor Wat on our first afternoon, then more appeared at Doi Inthanon. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: Notably common in Kaeng Krachan and on Doi Inthanon. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: Odd birds seen around the north. Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster: We saw some of the yellow-vented race at Ang Trapaeng Thmor and at Kaeng Krachan, then some of the red-vented race around Doi Inthanon. Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni: A small number were seen at Kaeng Krachan. Flavescent Bulbul Pycnonotus flavescens: Found commonly along the grassy roadsides at Doi Inthanon. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: One seen by the Samut Sakhon saltpans, plus a couple seen badly in Cambodia. Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi: The 'garden' bulbul of the tour, we saw a few along the way. Puff-throated Bulbul Alophoixus pallidus: A single bird perched up briefly at the Vachirathan waterfall. Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus: Noisy and visible at Kaeng Krachan. Buff-vented Bulbul Iole olivacea: Quite numerous at Kaeng Krachan, with an annoying nasal call. I love them really! Ashy Bulbul Hemixos flavala: More than a dozen of these handsome bulbuls seen on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Mountain Bulbul Hypsipetes mcclellandii: Quite a few seen in the evergreen forests on Doi Inthanon, though they didn't want to give themselves up easily. White-headed Bulbul Hypsipetes thompsoni: A nice look at a total of 11 sitting up in bare trees on Doi Inthanon. Restricted to North-western Thailand and adjacent Myanmar.
CISTICOLIDAE Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) Cisticola juncidis: A single showed itself rather well on the Laem Phak Bia saltpans. Hill Prinia Prinia atrogularis: One bird was seen very well on Doi Inthanon. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens (H): Heard along the roadside at Doi Inthanon. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris (H): Heard singing from the thickets alongside the creeks at Prek Toal. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: One was watched closely at the Laem Phak Bia saltpans.
SYLVIIDAE Slaty-bellied Tesia Tesia olivea: A brief but close and bouncy show by a pair on Doi Inthanon summit, and another was glimpsed in a damp gully. Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata (H): Heard at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, from deep within rank vegetation. Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: A brief look at one near Samut Sakhon. Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon: An excellent look at this demure bird in some grass at Huai Hong Khrai. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus: We had some fair views of these at the roadside at Doi Inthanon. Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Seen around our Kaeng Krachan hotel and at low altitude on Doi Inthanon. Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis: A few were seen in the forest at Kaeng Krachan and again on Doi Inthanon. Radde's Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi: Some great close views of these Siberian migrants at the roadside in Kaeng Krachan, plus another was seen briefly on Doi Inthanon. Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis: This typically Himalayan bird we found only on the summit of Doi Inthanon. Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus: Seen throughout although more often heard. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus: A single bird seen on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Eastern Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus coronatus: Several were seen in the forest at Kaeng Krachan, including a few with a fast moving feeding flock. Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: Only found high up on Doi Inthanon where they were very vocal. White-tailed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus davisoni: Taking over from the above species at middle altitudes on Doi Inthanon. Sulphur-breasted Warbler Phylloscopus ricketti: A single bird showed briefly with a mixed bird flock at Kaeng Krachan. [Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus: A bird seen briefly in the forest at Doi Inthanon was either this species or the recently described Omei Warbler S. omeiensis] Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Several birds seen in a day in the evergreen forest on Doi Inthanon. Yellow-bellied Warbler Abroscopus superciliaris: A nice look at this 'lemon-meringue' warbler in tall bamboo at Kaeng Krachan. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus (H): Several noisy parties were heard although always skulking out of view. Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax pectoralis: A fleeting glimpse of two or three birds at Kaeng Krachan. Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus: Much the easiest to observe of this shy family, but only on the summit of Doi Inthanon where they were watched feeding at very close range. Elsewhere they are typically shy! Large Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos (H): Heard distantly at Kaeng Krachan. White-browed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps: A good look at an inquisitive pair at Kaeng Krachan. Pygmy Wren-Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla (H): Heard in a couple of places on Doi Inthanon, but never revealing its mouse-like self. Golden Babbler Stachyris chrysaea (H): Heard in the bamboo on Doi Inthanon. Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: A good look at these little skulkers on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan, plus another seen at Doi Inthanon. Spot-necked Babbler Stachyris striolata: We had a close encounter with a pair of these richly-plumaged fellows on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis: Common if skulking at Kaeng Krachan, with a few more seen up north. Silver-eared Mesia Leiothrix argentauris: A good look at several of these colourful and vocal babblers on Doi Inthanon. White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: Some of these arboreal fellows were seen well on Doi Inthanon, including one being chased away by Short-billed Minivets. Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus: A couple seen on Doi Inthanon never really showed themselves. White-hooded Babbler Gampsorhynchus rufulus: A great look at a vocal and feisty fellow on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan. Spectacled Barwing Actinodura ramsayi: A nice close view of four early one morning on Doi Inthanon, and then another pair seen just as we left the forests there. Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera: A few of these unassuming babblers seen on Doi Inthanon. Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula: Numerous and confiding around the summit of Doi Inthanon. Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps: Another delight of the summit bog on Doi Inthanon, where several small feeding parties were unconcerned by our presence. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poliocephalus: A couple of brief views were had at Kaeng Krachan. Grey-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe morrisonia: Common in the mid-levels of Doi Inthanon. Rufous-backed Sibia Heterophasia annectans: A couple of good views of this handsome babbler were had on Doi Inthanon. Dark-backed Sibia Heterophasia melanoleuca: Fairly numerous and vocal in the evergreen forests on Doi Inthanon, we had some great close looks at birds feeding around the summit visitors centre. Striated Yuhina Yuhina castaniceps: Two small groups were seen on the ridge at Kaeng Krachan.
NECTARINIIDAE Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied F) Dicaeum ignipectus: A couple of looks at this on Doi Inthanon. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum: Usually just seen zipping about, our best views were in the garden of our Bangkok hotel. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: Odd ones seen around the route, particularly at Prek Toal and Bangkok. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Regularly seen in the dry woodland around the foot of Doi Inthanon. Mrs Gould's Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae: A handful of birds were seen feeding around the rhododendron flowers on the summit of Doi Inthanon. Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: Just one or two found on the summit of Doi Inthanon, where the birds are of the endemic race angkanensis, named so after the summit marsh. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata: A few popped up in the forests at Kaeng Krachan and Doi Inthanon. Grey-breasted Spiderhunter Arachnothera affinis (NL): Mike had a view of this fellow at Kaeng Krachan while most of us were inside chasing Flycatchers. Streaked Spiderhunter Arachnothera magna: Some great views of this attractive fellow at Kaeng Krachan, then several more flew by at Doi Inthanon.
PASSERIDAE Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: The 'House' sparrow of South-east Asia. White Wagtail Motacilla alba: One was seen on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, then a couple more on Doi Inthanon. All appeared to be of the race leucopsis. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava: We found a few around Ang Trapaeng Thmor that we identified as being of the macronyx race, plus a few more were seen at Samut Sakhon Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Quite numerous around the water features of Doi Inthanon. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Four of these were seen well inside Angkor Wat, with a couple more seen in flight at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Some flight views only near our Inthanon hotel. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: A couple of calling birds seen flying over at Ang Trapaeng Thmor. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava: A flock was seen at Ang Trapaeng Thmor, one perching up for a scope view. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: A furtive fellow was seen on our last morning at Doi Inthanon. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: One seen on a balcony of our Bangkok hotel was the only one of the tour.
FRINGILLIDAE Common Rosefinch (Scarlet R) Carpodacus erythrinus: John saw a male at Doi Inthanon, plus a female was seen briefly there. Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola: A flock of 50 or more buzzed around the rice stubble at Ang Trapaeng Thmor
MAMMALS Northern Tree Shrew Tupaia belangeri: A quick view of one feeding squirrel-like on discarded rice at Doi Inthanon. Crab-eating Macaque Macaca fascicularis: Several seen at Angkor Wat. Dusky Leaf Monkey (D Langur) Presbytis obscurus: Plenty seen, with some great views at Kaeng Krachan. Common Gibbon (White-handed G) Hylobates lar: After treating us to their impressive whooping, we had some great views of three in the forest at Kaeng Krachan. Fea's Muntjac Muntiacus feae: A rare beast that paused briefly in the riverbed at Kaeng Krachan, before disappearing like a ghost into the forest. Black Giant Squirrel Ratufa bicolor: A few of these great squirrels were seen at Kaeng Krachan. Variable Squirrel Callosciurus finlaysoni: Two were seen in the garden of our Bangkok hotel. Grey-bellied Squirrel Callosciurus caniceps: A couple were seen at Kaeng Krachan, sporting a blackish tail-tip. Belly-banded Squirrel Callosciurus erythraeus: We saw odd singles at Doi Inthanon, sporting rusty- coloured bellies. Himalayan Striped Squirrel (Burmese S S) Tamiops macclellandi: These delightful 'toy squirrels' were seen frequently in Kaeng Krachan, plus another seen in the flowering tree at Doi Inthanon.
REPTILES Water Monitor Varanus salvator: A great look at one on the muddy bank at Laem Phak Bia, plus Phil saw another monster-sized one there.
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