South India and the Andamans 2004 (Birdquest)

SOUTHERN INDIA & THE ANDAMANS 14 DECEMBER 2004 - 2 JANUARY 2005 TOUR REPORT LEADER: DAVE FARROW GROUP MEMBERS: PETER CHERRY, MARRACK GOULDING, PETER GRUNDY, TESSA GRUNDY, LENNIE KINGSTON, JAKE MANSON and TOMAS REBER. What a great trip this was! The good birds kept coming from start to finish and we recorded 328 species in total. Needless to say of course, this was ‘the most succesful Southern India and the Andamans tour to date!’ I have set myself a difficult task to equal it next time! We found all the Western Ghats endemics once again, with highlights of Red Spurfowl, Grey Junglefowl, White-cheeked and Crimson-fronted Barbets, Malabar Grey Hornbills, Nilgiri Woodpigeon, White-bellied Treepie, Yellow-throated Bulbul, White-bellied, Black-and-Orange and Nilgiri Flycatchers, both forms of White-bellied Shortwing, Broad-tailed Grassbird, Wynaad, Nilgiri and Grey-breasted Laughingthrushes, Malabar Lark, Crimson-backed Sunbird and Black-throated Munia. Further thrills and semi-endemics seen were Rain Quail, Painted and Jungle Bush Quails, White-naped Woodpecker, Sri Lanka Frogmouth (six in a day!!), Jerdon’s Nightjar, Malabar Pied Hornbill, Malabar Trogon, White-eyed Buzzard, Indian Pitta, White-bellied Minivet, Rusty-tailed and Brown-breasted Flycatchers, White-browed and Yellow-browed Bulbuls, Jungle Prinia, Dark-fronted and Yellow-billed Babblers, Jerdon’s Bushlark and Loten’s Sunbird. We were fortunate to reach the Tsunami-and-earthquake damaged Andaman Islands just two days after the cataclysmic event, but we were able to complete our birding programme without a hindrance finding Andaman Woodpecker, Andaman Scops Owl, Andaman Hawk Owl, Andaman Wood Pigeon, Andaman Cuckoo Dove, Andaman Crake (heard only), Andaman Serpent Eagle, Andaman Treepie, Andaman Drongo, Brown Coucal and White-headed Starling. We began our birding en-route to Mysore, when we stopped by some rocky hills and saw the scarce Yellow-throated Bulbul almost immediately, plus an obliging Jungle Bush Quail (with its incredible bumble-bee sized chick), White-browed Bulbul and Short-toed Snake Eagle, before continuing to our overnight stop in a Palace. The next day began well, at Ranganthittoo we found Streak-throated, Wire-tailed and Red-rumped Swallows all together on wires, smart little Purple-rumped Sunbirds, a stunning white Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Grey-headed Fish and Tawny Eagles, and the resident Great Thick-knees put on a good show. Our onward journey was a bit wobbly with a puncture and a rather large misnavigation on the part of our driver, but we reached the wonderful Kabini River Lodge and settled in comfortably. From here we explored the ‘Nagarhole’ (Indira Gandhi) National Park by jeep, with the first of our knowledgeable local birding guides. Woodpeckers abounded, and we found White-bellied, Streak-throated, Heart-spotted and Brown-capped Pygmy. Grey Junglefowl and Indian Peafowl cluttered the roads, Malabar and Plum-headed Parakeets hung in the trees, plus Indian Swiftlets, White-rumped Needletail, Jungle Owlet, White-eyed Buzzard, ‘Crested’ Hawk Eagles, Red-naped Ibis, Southern Hill Myna, an errant Western Reef Egret and some good encounters with Gaur, Indian Elephant and a prolonged close look at some Dhole. We found Rain Quail, Malabar Larks and Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks in fields close to our lodgings, and as we left this area we found Jerdon’s Bushlark and a Booted Eagle. We headed south to our next stop near Mudumalai, and soon set about finding the specialities of the area, accompanied by a very able birding guide once more. He led us to Brown Fish Owl, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Indian Pitta and Orange-headed Thrush on our first evening, and we enjoyed a close scope study of a Jerdon’s Nightjar as it sallied from a fencepost. The following morning started well with a great view of Malabar Whistling Thrush at first light, then we found Rufous-bellied Eagle, Yellow-billed Babbler, Crested Treeswifts, skulking Grey-headed Bulbuls, a fidgety White-bellied Minivet (our guides ‘100% guarantee’ was good!) and a surprise Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, the only one of the trip. We moved on and up from here, with a pause in a lush Nilgiri shola producing Black-and-Orange and Nilgiri Flycatchers, Hill Swallow and our first of the rufous-flanked form of White-bellied Shortwing. We continued up to Ooty at 2200m, to slum in it a very comfortable hotel with ‘Nilgiri’ Blackbirds hopping on the lawns. On a cold morning we found Nilgiri Laughingthrush, ‘Spot-breasted’ Fantail, more Black-and-Orange Flycatchers, prolonged close views of another White-bellied Shortwing and a feisty Indian Blue Robin, all happily living in perhaps the scruffiest habitat of the trip. On further explorations of shola remnants we discovered Large-billed Leaf and Western Crowned Warblers and Crimson-backed Sunbird. We proceeded southwards, down to the crowded plains before climbing once more to reach Top Slip, a journey slowed somewhat by innumerable checkpoints and bureaucracy! Once we had arrived in this exciting forest and settled into our simple lodge, we set off on foot with our next talented forest guide. An afternoon’s birding in the Karien Shola started off well with our guide spotting a roosting pair of Sri Lanka Frogmouths, which was then followed by another three! We also found Large Hawk Cuckoo, Rufous Babbler, tame Orange-headed Thrushes and our first Malabar Trogons. That evening, just yards from our lodgings, we saw our sixth Sri Lanka Frogmouth of the day, calling loudly in the torch beam, and Oriental Scops Owl and Brown Hawk Owl both came to investigate us. The next day we set off into the forests once more, finding several Heart-spotted Woodpeckers, Crimson-fronted Barbet, Chestnut-winged and Grey-bellied Cuckoo, Blue-faced Malkoha, the endemic White-bellied Treepie, Large Woodshrike, Brown-breasted Flycatcher, Southern Hill Mynas, Yellow-browed Bulbul, Dark-fronted Babbler and Black-throated Munia. Our afternoon stroll brought us the thrill of a Red Spurfowl, expertly flushed so that it landed almost at our feet before realising we were there! Once more we casually stepped out of our front door after dinner, re-found the Frogmouth and Oriental Scops Owl, and a beautiful Indian Scops Owl flew in for a close look. With a last forest sortie, we found Forest Wagtail, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, White-bellied Woodpecker, Puff-throated Babbler, more Malabar Trogons and a discreet pair of White-bellied Blue Flycatchers. After a lunch in the nearby town (proposed as ‘curry-of-the-trip’!), we drove into the dry acacia-rich Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Pausing only briefly here, we still managed to find Yellow-crowned Woodpecker, Black-headed Cuckooshrike, Jungle Prinia and Sykes’ Warbler. We ascended the Western Ghats once more, this time through the vivid tea plantations to the town of Munnar in the High Range, our home for the next two nights. Early morning on the grassy slopes of Rajamalai brought rapid results, with a Broad-tailed Grassbird skulking in a thicket, several Nilgiri Pipits feeding just yards away from us, a pair of Black Eagles, Pallid Harrier, Blue Rock Thrush and some very obliging Grey-breasted Laughingthrushes. Ducking into some lush remnant shola, we had a fantastic encounter with a very vocal White-bellied Shortwing, here of the albiventris ‘white-bellied’ form. That afternoon we set about ‘bashing’ the grassy slopes, flushing three different Painted Bush Quails (a lifer for all and also for Birdquest!) and a couple of Broad-tailed Grassbirds, one of which we managed to put to flight on three occasions, ensuring views for all present. We celebrated the great birding here with some excellent curries produced by our hotel’s kitchen, although their lack of liquor licence meant we had to be furtive with our beers! Heading down the narrow road that snakes southwards through the cardamom plantations, we found roadside Black-lored Tits and Rufous Treepies, before reaching our lovely lodgings at Periyar. An afternoon walk into the great forest here (with yet more skilled forest guides!) produced a longer look at Red Spurfowl, White-bellied Blue Flycatchers and Orange-headed Thrushes, a rusty malabaricum Jungle Owlet, and a memorable encounter with a raucous pair of Great Hornbills. We spent a day exploring logged forest on the road to the Gavi Dam, finding plenty of good birds that included White-bellied Woodpecker, Pompadour Green and Mountain Imperial Pigeons, White-rumped Needletails, Oriental Honey Buzzards, Black Eagles, Blue-throated, Rusty-tailed and Brown-breasted Flycatchers, plenty of Grey-headed Bulbuls, Thick-billed Warbler, Rufous and Dark-fronted Babblers and Crimson-backed Sunbirds. A splendid day, but when we returned to the hotel we discovered that thousands of people across Asia had had a very bad day. The news of the Tsunami made us wonder what our next move was going to be, what with rumours fast obscuring the truth. We headed back into the forest at Periyar one last time, our trackers leading us to a group of three Wynaad Laughingthrushes, hiding continually in the middle of a dense thicket into which we immersed ourselves in order to get views of this difficult endemic. Once all had seen it, the little black wasps decided it was time for us to leave in a hurry! We headed back to the hotel to pack up our things, and discovered that both Jet Airways and our Port Blair hotel were both expecting us. We had an auspicious send-off as an obliging Indian Pitta bobbed about in the flowerbeds and a Loten’s Sunbird sang in the hotel car park. As we navigated our way to Madurai airport, roadside stops provided Common Babblers, Rosy Starlings and a Jungle Prinia, and we flew to Chennai pensive about what lay ahead. So the following morning, Jet airways left on time once again, furnished us with one of their excellent chicken curries and lots of sweets, and after two hours delivered us to Port Blair. Our greatest struggle on arriving was with more bureaucracy (plus some unsuccessful Middle Eastern baggage thieves!) but then we were met by our indefatigable guide, Vikram. It was a short drive to the hotel and all seemed well, it looked these islands had escaped the worst of the disaster. The Nicobar Islands to the south had been devastated, and here there was obvious damage along the beaches where houses had been wrecked and jetties had been washed away. The main problem here was earthquake damage -to the water supply and to peoples nerves. We lunched with a first-class view, of the bay plus White-bellied Sea Eagles and Brown-backed Needletails that cruised close by. We headed out to Chiriyatappu at the south end of South Andaman, and set about birding the forest along the roadside. Our first endemics came in the shape of a fast-moving flock of Andaman Treepies (the only ones seen on the trip), the soon to be familiar Andaman Drongo, big black Andaman Woodpeckers excavating a roadside nest cavity, and Glossy Swiftlets zipped overhead while the trees were noisy with Alexandrine, Red-breasted and Long-tailed Parakeets. At one point the road was blocked by a couple of fishing boats sitting on the tarmac, but we stayed until night fell and quickly located an Andaman Hawk Owl calling from some very tall trees. Back at the hotel we watched with bemusement as TV news crews turned part of the restaurant into an open-air studio, but we were out again before first light and back in the forest. An excellent day began with Andaman Cuckoo Doves perched overhead, an Andaman Wood Pigeon sat in a dead tree, White-headed Starlings appeared in mixed flocks with Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Black-naped Oriole, and endemic forms of Black-headed Bulbul and Scarlet Minivets. Around the narrow beaches we found Pacific Reef Egret, Pacific Golden, Greater Sand and Lesser Sand Plovers, Whimbrel, Ruddy Turnstone and vivid Collared Kingfishers. On returning to the hotel, we chanced upon our first Brown Coucal that sat in a palm by the entrance gate. One result of the Tsunami was the damage to jetties and disruption of ferry services, so our afternoons visit to Mt Harriet, although just 2km from our hotel across the water, became a 50km drive that took two hours. We duly arrived, after some lengthy diversions due to damaged roads, and as dusk fell, the real fun began. An Andaman Scops Owl began calling nearby, and the duel with our target commenced. We glimpsed it against the night sky as it flew over us, only to perch unseen inside bindweed-like tangles. It held out for a while, then it let slip it’s guard and posed on an open branch so that all were able to enjoy a good look at this unassuming little bird. (NB: On the previous tour, we tried three times to see this bird, and in spite of its close proximity, it always remained invisible...) Mission accomplished, we again took the long way home, ready for beer, curry and another day. Having earned a slightly more leisurely start, we devoured our packed breakfast overlooking what remained of the Sippighat swamp, inundated just days before by the angry sea. Fortunately many birds remained, displaced into the adjacent rice paddies where we found Lesser Whistling Duck, Pacific Swallow, Black-browed and numerous Oriental Reed Warblers, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns and plenty of Watercock. We explored further into the interior, and in roadside forest saw Chestnut-headed Bee-eater. The evening saw us once more at Chiriyatappu searching for Andaman Crake, but the closest we came was hearing strange bovine noises emanating from a thick tangle at dusk. Returning the following morning, we found an Andaman Serpent Eagle as soon as we stopped the vehicles, and had a brief perched view before it was lost in the thick forest. The mangrove and beach forest yielded Stork-billed Kingfisher, Red-throated Flycatcher, Yellow-browed and Two-barred Warblers, Large Cuckooshrikes and a better view of another Serpent Eagle. We spent the last afternoon around some of the fast disappearing wetlands that were alive with birds. We found numerous Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns, Baillon’s and Ruddy-breasted Crakes, Slaty-breasted Rail, Pintail Snipe, hundreds of Red-breasted Parakeets raiding crops, Rusty-rumped Warblers, a flock of Red-throated Pipits and an Andaman Keelback Water Snake. And so onto the last day, with a last visit to Chiriyatappu that began and ended with an Andaman Serpent Eagle. Our last view of one, perched high in a bare tree calling loudly, ensured its place as this group’s ‘Bird-of-the-trip!’ We also found the albiventris form of White-rumped Shama, Brown Coucals, Emerald Doves and Forest Wagtails strolling in the road, and a whole host of avian friends old and new appeared to wish us on our way. With some sadness we made our way home from this point, having had a very fortunate experience on these islands. We had seen some tremendous birds on this tour and sampled the best of the cuisine, all factors to keep us happy and healthy as we headed back to the twilight of the northern winter. SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H) Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL) PHASIANIDAE Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus (H): Heard only, in several places in dry country. Rain Quail Coturnix coromandelica: Two birds were flushed from field margins close to Kabini River Lodge. Jungle Bush Quail Perdicula asiatica: Part of a great start to the birding, with a good look at a bird scurrying around us, near Chennapatna on our first afternoon. Endemic to the subcontinent. Painted Bush Quail Perdicula erythrorhyncha: A lifer for the leader, and also a Birdquest first! We flushed two or three birds from the grassy slopes at Rajamalai. Endemic to the Western and Eastern Ghats of Southern India. Red Spurfowl Galloperdix spadicea: A remarkable encounter with one at Top Slip, where our guide decided to ‘go in’ and flush it towards us. The bird flew and landed just yards in front of us, before scuttling off into the undergrowth. We then had an even better view of one, that casually strolled away from us and the fruiting tree it had been foraging under at Periyar. Endemic to the subcontinent. Grey Junglefowl Gallus sonneratii: This splendid chicken was often seen crossing the road in the Western Ghats forests, with highest numbers in Nagarhole. Endemic to the subcontinent. Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus: Only seen in the drier forests, at Nagarhole and in the Mudumulai area. DENDROCYGNIDAE Lesser Whistling-Duck (L W Teal) Dendrocygna javanica: Four were seen on a roadside tank en-route from Nagarhole, and then more at Sippighat on South Andaman. ANATIDAE Cotton Pygmy-Goose (C Teal) Nettapus coromandelianus: Six were seen on roadside tanks between Nagarhole and Mudumalai. Burmese Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhycha: Several seen on the lake at Nagarhole. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: Several were seen on roadside tanks en-route to Nagarhole, and then a load more on roadside floods near Coimbatore. Northern Pintail Anas acuta: A couple of dozen were seen at Nagarhole, plus a few more en-route from there. Garganey Anas querquedula: Numerous on the small tanks between Mysore, Nagarhole and Gundulpet, with many seen on the Kabini reservoir. Eurasian Teal Anas crecca (NL): A single seen at Nagarhole. PICIDAE Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopus nanus: Single birds were found at Nagarhole, Mudumalai and Top Slip. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopus macei: Several were seen on South Andaman, with great views of a male excavating a nest. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopus mahrattensis: Two birds were seen in the acacia woodland as we drove into the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: Some great views of several birds, at Nagarhole, Top Slip and along the Gavi track. Andaman Woodpecker Dryocopus hodgei: Some fine looks at this handsome endemic at Chiriyatappu on South Andaman. In fact we saw the female daily as she hammered away at her nest hole, and saw the male just once. Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus: A great look at pair on fallen timber on our first morning inside Nagarhole. Common Flameback Dinopium javanense: A scattering of sightings at Nagarhole, Top Slip and Periyar. Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense: The commoner woodpecker in the subcontinent, we saw them at Nagarhole, Top Slip and en-route to Periyar. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: We had our first encounter with three in a shola at Coonoor, then others were seen at Top Slip. White-naped Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus: A pair were watched at our leisure at Mudumalai, drumming on a dead snag and sunning themselves. Endemic to the India and Sri Lanka. Heart-spotted Woodpecker Hemicircus canente: Plenty of these superb little birds seen on this tour, with three at Nagarhole, and then another four sightings at Top Slip and a single on the Gavi track. MEGALAIMIDAE White-cheeked Barbet Megalaima viridis: Heard throughout the mainland part of the tour, and seen regularly, although it did cause some initial frustration!. A South Indian endemic. Crimson-fronted Barbet Megalaima rubricapilla: A South Indian endemic, with another race occurring on Sri Lanka. We enjoyed these jewels at Top Slip and along the road south of Munnar. Another South Indian endemic. Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala: Several seen on the drier parts of our route. BUCEROTIDAE Malabar Grey Hornbill Ocyceros griseus: We saw our first ones at Jungle Hut, then they were often heard with a few seen at Top Slip, then more at Periyar and along the Gavi track. A South Indian endemic. Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis: Two flew by at Top Slip, then we had a fantastic encounter with some very noisy birds in a fruiting tree at Periyar. Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus: A distant perched bird at Nagarhole was the only one of the trip. Endemic to the subcontinent and Sri Lanka. UPUPIDAE Common Hoopoe Upupa epops: A few singles seen in the drier parts of the tour. TROGONIDAE Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus: A total of 13 birds were seen, with progressively better views acquired, at Top Slip and then at Periyar. Endemic to South India and Sri Lanka. CORACIIDAE Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis: Seen often on journeys through open country. Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: One flew over us above the canopy at Periyar. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Odd ones were seen along our route, on both the mainland and the Andamans. HALCYONIDAE Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis: Heard at Ranganthittoo, then we saw singles at Nagarhole, Periyar and at Chiriyatappu on South Andaman. White-throated Kingfisher (W-breasted K) Halcyon smyrnensis: Seen almost daily on the mainland, and also on the Andamans where they show a much greater extent of white on the breast. These birds are of the saturatior race. Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris: Plenty were seen in typical coastal habitats on the Andamans, with displaying observed by some. CERYLIDAE Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis: Seen only at Ranganthittoo and Periyar. MEROPIDAE Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni: One seen near to Jungle Hut, and then another at Top Slip. Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis: Frequently encountered in dry open country. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: A few were seen on the mainland, then more commonly on the Andamans. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti: A small number were seen on the Andamans. CUCULIDAE Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus: We had flight views only of this winter visitor, at Top Slip. Large Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparveroides: A good view of a perched bird at Top Slip, just before we were distracted by the Frogmouths! Common Hawk-Cuckoo Hierococcyx varius: Three were seen well at Nagarhole, and we heard it en-route to Munnar. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus (H): A loud sequence of ‘one more bottle!’ was heard at Mt. Harriet on South Andaman - obviously not a dry day! Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus: We had a good look at one with a bird flock at Top Slip, then another was seen briefly as we passed through the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea: Seen well in the early part of the trip, then one or two singles on the Andamans. Blue-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus viridirostris: We saw two flighty birds at Top Slip, and another was seen on our last morning in Periyar. Endemic to the subcontinent and Sri Lanka. CENTROPODIDAE Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Often heard, with odd birds seen early on in the tour. Brown Coucal (Andaman C) Centropus andamanensis: Some great views of this splendid endemic, with our first in our hotel garden, then another perched up and preening at the roadside and several acting like roadrunners at Chiriyatappu. Endemic to the Andaman Islands. PSITTACIDAE Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria: Two were seen poorly at Nagarhole, but they were numerous and obliging at Chiriyatappu on South Andaman. Rose-ringed Parakeet (Ring-necked P) Psittacula krameri: Only seen around Mysore and Jungle Hut. Plum-headed Parakeet (Blossom-h P) Psittacula cyanocephala: This gorgeous parrot was fairly common in Nagarhole, plus we found a few at Top Slip. Malabar Parakeet (Blue-winged P) Psittacula columboides: It could easily be called ‘turquoise-collared’ parakeet, such is the intensity of colour on this subtle but convincing fellow. We found them throughout the forests of the mainland. Endemic to South India. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri: The most numerous parrot on the Andamans, with a spectacularly large raiding party seen near Sippighat. Long-tailed Parakeet (Red-cheeked P) Psittacula longicauda: Many seen around Chiriyatappu on South Andaman. Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis: Some good looks at these on the mainland, and then again on the Andamans. APODIDAE Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied S) Collocalia esculenta: Only seen on the Andamans where they were numerous. Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor: Quite a few of these demure endemic seen at Nagarhole, Mudumulai and at Top Slip. Edible-nest Swiftlet Collocalia fuciphaga (NL): We probably overlooked these, but Jake identified one on South Andaman. White-rumped Needletail (W-r Spinetail) Zoonavena sylvatica: These delightful forest swifts were seen well at Nagarhole but not again until we visited Gavi. Brown-backed Needletail (Brown N) Hirundapus giganteus: Odd birds were seen at Nagarhole, Pollachi, Munnar, and then best of all were the views tearing about at the Bay Island Hotel. Alpine Swift Apus melba: Several were seen along the way, with a vocal and notably large evening gathering at Rajamalai. House Swift (Little S) Apus affinis: A few seen along our route until Nagarhole. Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata: A couple of lazy morning gatherings perched up at Mudumalai and Top Slip. STRIGIDAE Andaman Scops Owl Otus balli: Finally this devilish little bird surrendered to the torch beam on Mt Harriet, a lifer for all of us and for Birdquest itself! So satisfying! It didn’t look like much, but a quote from Hume in Salim Ali’s Handbook calls it ‘the handsomest as well as gamest looking of all our Indian Scops Owls!?’ I wonder what he saw? Also heard at Chiriyatappu. Of course, endemic to the Andaman Islands. Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia: Seen very well just outside our accommodation at Top Slip for two nights running. Others were heard on Mt Harriet and at Chiriyatappu, South Andaman, where they call slightly differently and of the endemic modestus race. Also heard at Nagarhole. Indian Scops Owl (Collared S O) Otus bakkamoena: A very obliging individual seen superbly well just outside our accommodation at Top Slip. Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis: A roosting bird was tracked down for us by our intrepid guide at Mudumalai, snoozing in the top of a large tree. Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum: Seen well in daytime at Nagarhole, and then some good looks at Periyar where the birds are of a very rufous race malabaricum that seem to show similarities to the Sri Lankan Chestnut-backed Owlet. Nice to find such an obliging owl! Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata: A good look at one or two from our accommodation at Top Slip, and then at Chiriyatappu we saw one, which refers to the endemic Andaman race obscura that has an identical call. Andaman Hawk-Owl Ninox affinis: We saw one on our first night at Chiriyatappu, though a little too high up for a good look. Nevertheless we returned and had better views of another individual there. Endemic to the Andaman Islands. BATRACHOSTOMIDAE Sri Lanka Frogmouth (Ceylon F) Batrachostomus moniliger: Our forest guide at Top Slip confirmed his expertise to us at an early stage, with the incredible find by naked-eye of a pair of roosting Frogmouths, virtually invisible even with binoculars! We then saw a threesome huddled together at his regular site, and topped it off with our sixth bird of the day, by torchlight and calling loudly outside our accommodation, which we saw two nights running. What an awesome tally for a single day! Endemic to South India and Sri Lanka. CAPRIMULGIDAE Jerdon’s Nightjar Caprimulgus atripennis: One was seen in silhouette at Nagarhole, then we had close scope views of one flycatching from a fence post at Jungle Hut. Endemic to South India and Sri Lanka. COLUMBIDAE Rock Pigeon Columba livia: Available Nilgiri Wood Pigeon Columba elphinstonii: Perhaps one of the most ‘missable’ Western Ghats endemics at this season, we had a great look at an unexpected one near to Jungle Hut, the only one of the trip. Endemic to South India. Andaman Wood Pigeon Columba palumboides: One at Chiriyatappu gave us a superb look as sat in a bare tree, early on our first morning there. Like the above, we saw just the one. Endemic to the Andaman Islands. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis: Only seen in drier habitats near the start of the tour. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Seen almost daily on the mainland. Red Collared Dove (Red Turtle D) Streptopelia tranquebarica: Numerous on South Andaman. Eurasian Collared D (Indian Ring D) Streptopelia decaocto: A few seen in drier habitats near the start of the tour. Andaman Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia rufipennis: This gave itself up rather easily, with a pair of these ginger delights calling and fluttering back and forth over our heads at Chiriyatappu. Endemic to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica: Seen in flight at Top Slip and at Gavi, then much better views were acquired of roadwalking birds on the Andamans. Pompadour Green Pigeon Treron pompadora: A few were seen at Top Slip, Periyar and at Gavi, then we had lots of good looks at them on the Andamans. Yellow-footed Green Pigeon (Y-legged G P) Treron phoenicoptera: Seen in its favoured dry woodland at Nagarhole and again at Mudumalai. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea: Seen commonly at Nagarhole, then not again until we reached South Andaman where they were very numerous at Chiriyatappu, entertaining us with their curious growls. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia: One of these big fellows was seen at Top Slip, then good looks at more were had at Periyar and Gavi. RALLIDAE Andaman Crake Rallina canningi (H): The closest we got to this near-mythical bird, was a groaning response from a dense thicket at dusk, in response to playback. The strategy for seeing this bird has yet to be divined! Endemic to the Andaman Islands. Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus: A brief look at one at dusk in the rice paddies at Sippighat. Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla: Some distant looks in the half-light of two in the rice paddies at Sippighat. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Odd singles seen along our route. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca: The Dabchick-like trill of this bird was heard at Sippighat, and at least one sprinted across an open area in the rice paddies, but it was a bit gloomy by then… Watercock Gallicrex cinerea: Some great views of these sitting about in the rice at Sippighat. Grey-headed Swamphen (Purple S, P Gallinule) Porphyrio poliocephalus: Several individuals seen on roadside tanks en-route from Kabini, and then a few more around the swamps on the Andamans. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Odd singles seen on the mainland, and plenty at Sippighat. Common Coot (Eurasian C) Fulica atra: A few birds seen on roadside pools early on in the trip. SCOLOPACIDAE Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: Quite a few were seen at Nagarhole in the shallows around the lake, then we flushed lots from the marsh at Sippighat. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Several were flushed from the marsh at Sippighat. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: A few wintering birds were seen on the Andamans, favouring rocky beaches. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata: Two were seen on the beaches of South Andaman. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus: A single was seen on South Andaman Common Redshank Tringa totanus: A few birds were seen on the Andamans. Common Greenshank (Greenshank) Tringa nebularia: Seen only around the lake at Nagarhole. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Several were seen around our mainland circuit. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A few examples were seen near Mysore, at Nagarhole and on South Andaman. Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos: A few were seen early in the tour, and then they were quite visible on South Andaman. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: These fantastic world travellers were seen on three days in the Andamans, with eight in a high-tide huddle with Lesser Sand Plovers. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii: Four were seen on the lakeshore at Nagarhole. JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Seen en-route to and from Kabini on roadside tanks, and a trio of flying birds on South Andaman. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopodius indicus: A single bird was seen as we drove from Kabini to Gundulpet. BURHINIDAE Great Thick-knee (G Stone Plover) Esacus recurvirostris: Some twenty birds graced the rocky islands at Ranganthittoo, which has to be the best place to watch this species anywhere. CHARADRIIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: Only seen on three dates of the tour, typically on roadside pools and tanks. Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva: We found a fair few of these around the wet areas of South Andaman. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Several seen in different areas of the Kabini lakeshore. Lesser Sand Plover (Mongolian P) Charadrius mongolus: The commoner sandplover around the Andamans. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaulti: Two singles were easily identified on the Andamans as they loped alongside the above species. Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus: A surprise find near Jungle Hut where we saw three fly in to a nearby field as the day drew to a close. Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus: A few seen around our route on the mainland, particularly at Nagarhole. GLAREOLIDAE Small Pratincole Glareola lactea: A lone bird passed over the Kabini River Lodge with a flock of Ashy Woodswallows. LARIDAE River Tern Sterna aurantia: Several at Ranganthittoo were showing the first signs of breeding activity, and we saw a few more at Nagarhole. ACCIPITRIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: A single individual was seen, by the lake at Nagarhole. Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes: An exciting late find, with a bird perched up for us at Chiriyatappu on our last mornings’ birding. Oriental Honey Buzzard (Crested H B) Pernis ptilorhynchus: Seen often and well, over the various mainland forests. Black-shouldered Kite (B-winged K) Elanus caeruleus: Singles were seen en-route from Mysore, from Top Slip and on the way to Madurai. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Seen most often over open country and around the cities such as Chennai where they were numerous. Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus: Many were seen along our route through South India, particularly around Mysore and Nagarhole. Also two were seen at Chiriyatappu. White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: A handsome feature of the Andamans, where we saw many. The best of course were the Bay Island Hotel regulars, entertaining as we dined! Grey-headed Fish Eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus: One was seen perched at Ranganthittoo, then we saw another at the lake in Nagarhole. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Singles were seen en-route to Mysore and at Ranganthittoo. Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus: Two were seen en-route to Mysore, and singles were seen near Jungle Hut, Ooty and near Madurai. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela: Six were seen in a day at Nagarhole, others were at Mudumalai, Top Slip, and a juvenile was seen near Gavi. Andaman Serpent Eagle Spilornis elgini: We started with an electrocuted corpse, then had bad flight view at Mt Harriet, slowly increasing the quality of our views with two or three birds at Chiriyatappu, until the final look was at a bird sat in a sunlit dead tree, calling loudly. This Andaman endemic was virtually the last bird of our stay and this group’s ‘Bird-of-the-trip’! Western Marsh Harrier (Eurasian M H) Circus aeruginosus: A few singles seen on the mainland, then a single female at Sippighat on the Andamans. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus: A nice surprise to see a male flying around the mountain at Rajamalai. Shikra Accipiter badius: Odd singles seen along our route on the mainland. Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis: We had a good look at one as it sped overhead and down into the marsh near Sippighat, catching an unidentified small bird on its way. White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa: A single perched up near Kabini River Lodge in the early morning was a nice surprise. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: One seen along the Gavi track. Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis: A good number of encounters on this trip. Our first sailed past us at eye-level at Coonoor, then we saw two more at Rajamalai and two or three at Gavi. Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga: A good view of a perched adult along the lakeshore at Nagarhole. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax: We saw our first at Ranganthittoo, then singles over Kabini River Lodge and en-route from there. Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: An immature bird hung around the heronries at Ranganthittoo for a short while. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: A single dark phase bird was seen at our second puncture stop, en-route from Nagarhole. Rufous-bellied Eagle (R-b Hawk-E) Hieraaetus kienerii: Spotted and identified at great range by our binocular-less guide near Jungle Hut, it proceeded to cruise ever-closer for some great views. Changeable Hawk Eagle (Crested H-E) Spizaetus cirrhatus: Some good looks at a couple at Nagarhole, then some more at Mudumalai, and three were seen on the Andamans. The birds on the mainland were all of the nominate ‘Crested’ form, while Andaman birds were all limnaetus ‘Changeable’ ones. This is a sure split I think. FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Several sightings scattered through the mainland, also seen at Port Blair airport. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A single bird came off the rocky mountain at Top Slip to mob a passing Crested Serpent Eagle. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Podiceps ruficollis: Several seen on roadside tanks along our route. ANHINGIDAE Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster: Found at Ranganthittoo, Nagarhole and Periyar. PHALACROCORACIDAE Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger: Found commonly on wetlands around Mysore and Nagarhole. Indian Cormorant (I Shag) Phalacrocorax fuscicollis: A small number seen at Ranganthittoo, providing direct comparisons with the other two species. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: A few seen at Ranganthittoo, also recorded on the man-made lake at Nagarhole. ARDEIDAE Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Frequently seen in suitable habitat. Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis: Something of a rarity when its 60km inland, we saw a grey phase bird on the lake at Nagarhole. An unexpected write-in for this tour. Pacific Reef Egret (Reef Heron) Egretta sacra: Only found on the Andamans where most birds were of the dark morph. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: A few seen early on in the tour. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Some singles were seen on roadside tanks near Nagarhole, and then a couple more on the Andamans. Great Egret Casmerodius alba: Seen in suitable habitats early on in the tour, and again on the Andamans. Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia: A few were found around Nagarhole and on roadside pools nearby. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Often seen on our journeys through open country. Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii: Seen frequently on the mainland. Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus: The ‘default’ Pond Heron on the Andamans where we found several. Little Heron (Striated H) Butorides striatus: Three were seen on the Andamans in coastal habitats. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Only seen at Ranganthittoo, with many there showing well. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: Common around Sippighat and the nearby marsh, with a dozen seen in an afternoon. Cinnamon Bittern (Chestnut B) Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Several seen in the wet habitats of South Andaman. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A flock of ten made a couple of passes over us at Ranganthittoo. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus: Numerous at Ranganthittoo and a few more seen at Nagarhole. Red-naped Ibis (Black I) Pseudibis papillosa: Some good looks at these great birds in the fields and lakeshores around Nagarhole and Mysore. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: A good number of these at Ranganthittoo in their smart breeding plumage. CICONIIDAE Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala: A few seen at Ranganthittoo and some singles at Nagarhole. Asian Openbill (O Stork) Anastomus oscitans: Three were seen en-route to Nagarhole, a couple more at Ranganthittoo and some en-route to Madurai. Woolly-necked Stork (White-n S) Ciconia episcopus: A single bird perched in a large tree by the jetty at Periyar. PITTIDAE Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura: Vocal birds were heard in various forests of the mainland, and we had a brief view of one near Jungle Hut. We achieved ‘full Pitta satisfaction’ with a bird seen going to roost at the Taj Garden Retreat at Periyar, which was seen again the following day, skulking about in flowerbeds. IRENIDAE Asian Fairy-Bluebird (Fairy B) Irena puella: Odd singles at Top Slip preceded more seen at Gavi, Periyar and on the Andamans. Blue-winged Leafbird (Gold-mantled L) Chloropsis cochinchinensis: A few seen at Nagarhole and around Mudumalai. These birds are of the race jerdoni which lacks blue wings! Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons: Two were seen at Top Slip, and a few more in the Periyar area. LANIIDAE Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Seen often on the mainland, and numerously on the Andamans where many were of the smart lucionensis race. Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus: Only seen in the dry scrub jungle around Mudumalai. Long-tailed Shrike (Rufous-backed S) Lanius schach: Odd singles seen around the mainland. CORVIDAE Rufous Treepie (Indian T) Dendrocitta vagabunda: A single seen at Nagarhole, with some good looks at others at Top Slip and en-route to Periyar. White-bellied Treepie Dendrocitta leucogastra: We saw quite a few of these smart crows at Top Slip, and then a few more at Periyar. Endemic to South India. Andaman Treepie Dendrocitta bayleyi: The only Andaman endemic that we saw without getting great views, we had a brief encounter with three or four in a mixed flock on our first afternoon at Chiriyatappu. Endemic to the Andaman Islands. House Crow Corvus splendens: Commonly available on the mainland! Large-billed Crow (Jungle C) Corvus macrorhynchos: Seen in small numbers throughout. Ashy Woodswallow (A Swallow-Shrike) Artamus fuscus: A flock of 20 that passed overhead at Kabini River Lodge were the only ones of the trip. Eurasian Golden Oriole (Golden O) Oriolus oriolus: Found in fair numbers around our route on the mainland. All birds were of the Indian kundoo race with extra yellow on the flight feathers. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: Several seen on South Andaman, of the andamanensis race. Black-hooded Oriole (B-headed O) Oriolus xanthornus: Several seen in the deciduous forests at Nagarhole, also at Mudumalai. Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei: Seen well at Kabini River Lodge, and some great views of two near the end of the trip at Chiriyatappu. Black-headed Cuckooshrike Coracina melanoptera: Three singles were seen, at Kabini River Lodge, near Jungle Hut and in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: A surprise find of a female near Port Blair, in the middle the chaos of a tsunami panic! Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus: Often seen in the dryer mainland forests, and then commonly on the Andamans in the forest at Chiriyatappu. White-bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius: After assurances from our guide at Jungle Hut that we would definitely see one, it was very satisfying to find a female flitting through the scrub, even though it didn’t hang around! If you split off the Burmese form, this is endemic to India. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Many seen in the South Indian forests that were all of the nominate race, which unlike the main continental forms has the red of the male replaced by orange. On the Andamans we saw the endemic andamanensis race, which is indeed scarlet and has a rather different call. Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus: A few seen in the mainland forests. White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Singles were seen at Jungle Hut and at Ooty were all of the spot-breasted albogularis race, a.k.a. ‘Spot-breasted Fantail’. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola: Four were seen, only around Jungle Hut in typical dry scrubby habitats. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Predictably found in open country on the mainland, with a few seen on the Andamans at Sippighat, where they are not supposed to occur! Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: Encountered throughout the South Indian forests. White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens: Only seen in the drier forests of Nagarhole, and also around Jungle Hut. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: Often seen in mainland forests. Andaman Drongo Dicrurus andamanensis: The most visible of the Andaman endemics, we found many of these large-billed fellows. Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus: Numerous and vocal in the forests of Nagarhole, Top Slip, Periyar and the Andamans, where they appeared to be the last birds to go to roost! Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: A few seen in mainland forests, and more commonly on the Andamans. Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi: Often encountered in the mainland forests such as Top Slip, with a nice white full-tailed male at Ranganthittoo. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: A few seen in the mainland forests, including one or two males in their startling black-topped breeding plumage. Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis: Three were seen in a mixed feeding flock at Top Slip. Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus: A few seen at Nagarhole, Top Slip and in Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary. MUSCICAPIDAE Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Two were found in typical habitat at Rajamalai. Malabar Whistling Thrush Myophonus horsfieldii: The ‘idle schoolboy’ whistling accompanied us from Jungle Hut southwards, with birds seen at Jungle Hut, Top Slip, Munnar and the Periyar area. Endemic to Southern India. Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina: The boldly marked cyanotis race obliged on many occasions with good views acquired at Jungle Hut, Top Slip and Periyar. Common Blackbird Turdus merula: Some good looks on our Ooty hotel lawn of the simillimus race (‘Nilgiri Blackbird’), plus a single at Naduvattam, and at Top Slip and Munnar we saw birds of the nigropileus or bourdilloni race. White-bellied Shortwing (Rufous-b S) Brachypteryx major: Two races of this fellow were enjoyed with some close and obliging views: the nominate rufous-flanked race was seen very well at Ooty, plus another more skulking bird at Naduvattam. At Rajamalai we enjoyed fantastic views of several of the albiventris white-bellied race at Rajamalai, plus another seen at the Lockhart Gap. Endemic to Southern India. Asian Brown Flycatcher (Brown F) Muscicapa dauurica: Odd singles were noted at Nagarhole, and then again on the Andamans. Rusty-tailed Flycatcher (Rufous-t F) Muscicapa ruficauda: At least seven of these demure birds seen on the Gavi track and in the forest at Periyar. A winter visitor from the western Himalayas. Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui: Two were seen in the forest at Top Slip, and a couple more in the Periyar area. A wintering species that breeds in China and north-east India. Red-throated Flycatcher (R-breasted F) Ficedula parva: A single bird near Ranganthittoo, but none more until we reached the Andamans where we had a good look at one at Chiriyatappu. Black-and-orange Flycatcher Ficedula nigrorufa: We saw several of these jewels at Naduvattam and Ooty. My personal ‘Bird-of-the-trip’, and endemic to Southern India Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassina: Two seen in near Jungle Hut and another single on the Gavi track. Nilgiri Flycatcher Eumyias albicaudata: A pair were seen in the shola at Naduvattam, and then another three near the Lockhart Gap. A South Indian endemic. White-bellied Blue Flycatcher Cyornis pallipes: A pair at Top Slip took a lot of finding, then we had leisurely views of several at Periyar and Gavi. Endemic to Southern India. Blue-throated Flycatcher Cyornis rubeculoides: A male showed briefly along the Gavi track. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae: Heard more often than seen, in mainland forests with stands of large bamboo. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Very visible at Ooty, Munnar and Periyar. Indian Blue Robin Luscinia brunnea: We had a good look at an agitated male near Ooty, and another male in the forest at Periyar. Several birds were heard singing from dense undergrowth. A winter visitor from the Himalayas. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: Frequently found in drier and open habitats on the mainland, also on the Andamans. White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus: Heard only in one or two places on the mainland, then we saw one really well on our last morning at Chiriyatappu. Here they are of the white-bellied, short-tailed endemic albiventris race, which sings more simply and should be heading for a split! Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata: Only seen in dry open country and scrub such as around Masinagudi and between Bangalore and Mysore. Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura: A single seen near Kabini, then several were found on the Andamans. Pied Bushchat (P Stonechat) Saxicola caprata: Fairly common around arable habitats on the mainland. STURNIDAE Chestnut-tailed Starling (Grey-headed Myna) Sturnus malabaricus: Small flocks were seen near Ranganthittoo, Nagarhole, Jungle Hut and Periyar. These all refer to the paler-headed blythi race. White-headed Starling Sturnus erythropygius: A handsome Andaman endemic that we encountered often in the forests of South Andaman. Brahminy Starling (B Myna) Sturnus pagodarum: A few were seen in the dry scrub around Masinagudi, and again en-route to Madurai. Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus: We found four on roadside wires en-route to Madurai. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis: Recorded throughout the tour. Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus: Not uncommon on the mainland in both open and wooded country. Southern Hill Myna Gracula indica: Numerous in evergreen forests on the mainland where they entertained us with their amusing whistles. This is now split from Common Hill Myna in the ‘Starling & Mynas’ book (Feare & Craig 1999) and is distinct in having nape wattles extending onto crown and distinctly separated eye-wattles. Endemic to Southern India. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: A few seen at Chiriyatappu are of the andamanensis race, which is assigned to this species. SITTIDAE Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Several found in the deciduous forests of Nagarhole, plus a single at Jungle Hut. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Frequently encountered in the mainland forests. PARIDAE Great Tit Parus major: Odd birds were seen in the drier forests of the mainland. Black-lored Tit (Yellow-cheeked T) Parus xanthogenys: Several of these delightful tits were seen around Periyar and at the Lockhart Gap. HIRUNDINIDAE Dusky Crag Martin Hirundo concolor: Seen in suitable ‘craggy’ habitats between Bangalore and Mysore, Top Slip, plus some on the crowded wires near Ranganthittoo. Barn Swallow (Swallow) Hirundo rustica: Numerous from Mysore to Jungle Hut, also at Periyar and on the Andamans. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Several examples were seen on the Andamans, in typical coastal habitats that they seem to be confined to. Hill Swallow Hirundo domicola: A split from the above, we found plenty around the tea plantations of the Nilgiris and High Range. Restricted to interior peninsula India & Sri Lanka. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii: Just two seen on some very busy wires near Ranganthittoo. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Seen often on the mainland. Streak-throated Swallow (Indian Cliff S) Hirundo fluvicola: Some great views of plenty of these at Ranganthittoo where they were nest building under the river rocks, or sat preening on the wires on the entrance road. A subcontinent endemic. Northern House Martin Delichon urbica: At least two hawking over the lake at Periyar with a mixed hirundine flock. PYCNONOTIDAE Grey-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus priocephalus: This elusive Western Ghats endemic gave us a good run around near Jungle Hut, and then full satisfaction acquired along the very productive Gavi track, with at least eight seen and more heard. Endemic to Southern India. Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps: A few of these handsome devils were seen at Chiriyatappu, of the olive-headed endemic fuscoflavescens race. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus: Seen only at Top Slip and Gavi, where the crestless ruby-throated form is of the gularis race. Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus: Recorded commonly throughout the tour. Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Numerous, but just on the mainland. Yellow-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus xantholaemus: A great way to start the tour, with a stop at the rocky hill en-route to Mysore revealing a single example of this scarce bird, skulking around in the scrub. Endemic to Southern India. White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus: A few encountered in scrub jungle on the mainland, with our first seen at the same locality as the above species. Endemic to the peninsula and Sri Lanka. Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica: Another Bulbul endemic to the peninsula and Sri Lanka, we found just a few in good forest at Coonoor, Top Slip and Periyar. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus: A few seen at Coonoor, Rajamalai and around Periyar. CISTICOLIDAE Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii: A few were seen at Nagarhole and in clearings at Top Slip. Jungle Prinia Prinia sylvatica: One was seen in the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, and then another en-route to Madurai. Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis: A single example was seen at Nagarhole. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata: Found on the grassy slopes at Rajamalai, plus a couple more seen in fields near Kabini. ZOSTEROPIDAE Oriental White-eye (White-eye) Zosterops palpebrosus: Fairly numerous on the mainland, also seen at Chiriyatappu on South Andaman. SYLVIIDAE Rusty-rumped Warbler (Pallas’s Grasshopper W) Locustella certhiola: Several heard at the Sippighat marshes on South Andaman, where we managed to get a quick look at one. Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps: Several were evident in the wetland vegetation at Sippighat. Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum: Commonly found on the mainland, although usually skulking! Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis: Very numerous and showy at Sippighat. Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus: A single bird was seen along the lakeshore at Kabini. Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon: One seen briefly at Kabini, then some good looks at this demure fellow along the Gavi track. Sykes’s Warbler Hippolais rama: A very tricky bird to separate from its close ally, the Booted Warbler. We saw a good example at a stop in the Chinnar Wildlife sanctuary, and another bird seen near Chennapatna was either this or Booted Warbler H. caligata. Common Tailorbird (Tailorbird) Orthotomus sutorius: Odd individuals were encountered along our mainland circuit. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus: A single bird was elusive at Chiriyatappu on our last morning there. Tickell’s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis: A Himalayan breeder here on its wintering grounds, we found a few at Naduvattam, Ooty, and fairly commonly at Rajamalai. Yellow-browed Warbler (Inornate W) Phylloscopus inornatus: Two examples were seen at Chiriyatappu, although high in the canopy! Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides: Common throughout the mainland forests, from Nagarhole through to Periyar, although heard more often than seen. Some birds in the Nilgiris appeared much duller and may refer to another race. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus: At least one seen and several heard at Chiriyatappu. Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus: A few seen between Ranganthittoo and Periyar, though many more were heard. Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris: Also heard often, from Jungle Hut through to Periyar, with our first seen at Ooty. Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis: several were seen with a mixed feeding flock at Coonoor, and singles were seen at Top Slip and at the Lockhart Gap. Broad-tailed Grassbird Schoenicola platyura: Our first encounter was with a bird that called loudly by the roadside at Rajamalai, of which we managed to see about one-third of the bird before it vanished! Organised flushes on grassy slopes near there put up three more, one of which we managed to put to flight on three occasions, so the flight views weren’t too bad! A little known bird and endemic to the Western Ghats. Wynaad Laughingthrush Garrulax delesserti: This is always a skulker and hard to find, and it held out for as long as possible! After we searched high and low for it, on our final morning at Periyar our forest guides located three under a dense thicket, which then took time to get a look at. Endemic to Southern India. Nilgiri Laughingthrush Garrulax cachinnans: We were treated to some splendid views of these handsome birds in a rambling thicket at Ooty, while engaged in a spot of trespassing!. Also one was seen briefly at Coonoor. Endemic to Southern India. Grey-breasted Laughingthrush Garrulax jerdoni: Far easier than the above, we had some great looks at these at Rajamalai, and on the road south of Munnar. Endemic to Southern India. Puff-throated Babbler (Spotted B) Pellorneum ruficeps: We enjoyed a very close encounter with a pair at the roadside at Top Slip. Indian Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus horsfieldii: Seen well first at Nagarhole, then more were seen at Ooty and around Periyar. Often heard calling, especially at Top Slip. Endemic to India and Sri Lanka. Dark-fronted Babbler (Black-headed B) Rhopocichla atriceps: We found two small flocks in the undergrowth at Top Slip, and then another three were found at Gavi. Endemic to Sri Lanka and peninsula India. Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense: Heard near the Kabini River Lodge, and then several seen in the scrub jungle near Jungle Hut. Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus: A pair were watched nest-building near the road en-route to Madurai. Rufous Babbler Turdoides subrufus: A real skulker although very vocal, we managed to get some views at Top Slip, and then a bit better along the Gavi track. Endemic to Southern India. Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus: Often encountered in noisy gangs at Nagarhole, Top Slip and Periyar. Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis: Found only in dry country such as around Mudumalai, our first sitting on the hotel itself! Others were seen near Chennapatna, Pollachi, Chinnar and en-route to Madurai. Endemic to Sri Lanka and peninsula India. Brown-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe poioicephala: A few of this under-whelming babbler at Jungle Hut, Top Slip, Periyar and Gavi. Hume’s Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia althaea: Four birds were seen in scrub jungle near Jungle Hut and another at Chinnar. ALAUDIDAE Jerdon’s Bushlark Mirafra affinis: Endemic to South India, we saw our first at our second puncture stop en-route from Nagarhole then another near Jungle Hut. Ashy-crowned Sparrow Lark (A-c Finch-L) Eremopterix grisea: Two were seen along the lakeshore near Kabini River Lodge, and then some more on wires en-route from there. Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicurus (NL): The group sneaked this one in while the leader was in the bush, near Chennapatna. Malabar Lark Galerida malabarica: Only found around the lakeshore at Kabini River Lodge, where we found four. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula: At least three birds seen around the lakeshore at Nagarhole. NECTARINIIDAE Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile: Two birds seen in the garden at Jungle Resort Pale-billed Flowerpecker (Tickell’s F) Dicaeum erythrorhynchos: Odd singles encountered along the way, until we reached the Jungle Resort where they were numerous in the garden. Plain Flowerpecker (Plain-coloured F) Dicaeum concolor: Most numerous along the Gavi track, with others seen at Top Slip, Periyar and Chiriyatappu. Purple-rumped Sunbird Nectarinia zeylonica: Only seen at Ranganthittoo and Nagarhole where they were numerous. Endemic to Southern India and Sri Lanka. Crimson-backed Sunbird (Small S) Nectarinia minima: Favouring the montane evergreen forest, this endemic was found in the Nilgiri sholas, Top Slip and more numerously at Gavi. Endemic to Southern India. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: A few of this typically South-east Asian bird were seen on the Andamans. Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica: Many seen in drier parts of our mainland circuit, and also around Periyar. Loten’s Sunbird Nectarinia lotenia: A single male in song at our Periyar hotel was the finale to our hunt for the endemics and specialities of South India. Endemic to South India and Sri Lanka. Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostris (H): Heard at Top Slip and Periyar. PASSERIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Available! Chestnut-shouldered Petronia (Yellow-throated S) Petronia xanthocollis: A single was seen at Nagarhole, and then we found plenty in the dry scrub near Jungle Hut. Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus: We found several of these attractive birds at Top Slip, Periyar and at Chiriyatappu. White Wagtail (Pied W) Motacilla alba: A single bird seen on the lakeshore at Kabini, race not determined. White-browed Wagtail (Large Pied W) Motacilla madaraspatensis: Endemic to the subcontinent, we found them regularly in waterside localities. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava: Birds seen on the lakeshore at Kabini and Nagarhole were of the races thunbergi and beema, and near Port Blair we saw simillima and macronyx. The latter form is a proposed split as ‘Eastern Yellow Wagtail’ M. tschutschensis. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Common throughout the mainland. Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: Seen around Nagarhole and Top Slip. Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: A couple of birds were glimpsed at Ooty. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus: A nice flock of eight on landfill rubble near Port Blair. Nilgiri Pipit Anthus nilghiriensis: Some six or more of this true South Indian Endemic were enjoyed at close range at Rajamalai. White-rumped Munia (W-backed M) Lonchura striata: A few were seen at Top Slip, and then plenty in the rice fields on the Andamans. Black-throated Munia (Rufous-bellied M) Lonchura kelaarti: Endemic to South India and Sri Lanka, we saw two coming to drink in a clearing at Top Slip. Scaly-breasted Munia (Spotted M) Lonchura punctulata: Just two seen at Kabini River Lodge. FRINGILLIDAE Common Rosefinch (Scarlet R) Carpodacus erythrinus: Several groups seen between Nagarhole and Munnar. MAMMALS Indian Flying Fox (Flying Fox) Pteropus giganteus: Hundreds of these were seen hanging in the trees at Ranganthittoo, more seen in daytime between there and Nagarhole, and quite a few seen around Thekkady. Bonnet Macaque Macaca radiata: Seen throughout the mainland. Hanuman Langur (Common L) Presbytis entellus: A few seen at Nagarhole and Jungle Hut area. Nilgiri Langur Presbytis johnii: A wonderful call and a handsome animal, we found these at Naduvattam, Top Slip, Periyar and Gavi. Golden Jackal Canis aureus: A single animal crossed the road at dusk close to Munnar. Dhole (Indian Wild Dog) Cuon alpinus: A great look at upwards of four at Nagarhole, with a prolonged view of a close one sitting in the open. Masked Palm Civet Paguma larvata: A fine looking animal that crossed the road at Chiriyatappu. Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii (NL): Jake saw one in the hotel grounds at Thekkady. Another that may have been this species crossed the road at Mt Harriet. Indian Elephant Elephas maximus: We saw two distantly at Nagarhole. Wild Boar Sus scrofa: Frequently encountered at Nagarhole, Periyar and Top Slip, where one around our lodgings was tame enough to earn itself the nickname of ‘Helmut!’ Indian Muntjac (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak: Three were seen in Nagarhole, plus another briefly in a tea plantation at Coonoor. Spotted Deer (Chital) Cervus axis: Numerous at Nagarhole, also seen at near Jungle Hut and Top Slip. Sambar Cervus unicolor: A few seen at Nagarhole. Gaur (Indian Bison) Bos gaurus: Good encounters with many of these handsome beasts at Nagarhole, and another eight seen on the Gavi track. Nilgiri Tahr Hemitragus hylocrius: No tame ones at Rajamalai, we had to make do with scope views of three high on the mountain. Indian Palm Squirrel (Three-striped P S) Funambulus palmarum: The common squirrel in the drier habitats of the tour, also something like this was seen at Chiriyatappu. Dusky Striped Squirrel Funambulus sublineatus: A few were seen at Top Slip, and a couple more at Gavi. Indian Giant Squirrel Ratufa indica: Lots of good views of these beautiful creatures were seen, at Nagarhole, Ooty, Munnar, Periyar and Gavi. REPTILES Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustris: Just four of these were seen at Ranganthittoo. Indian Black Turtle Melanochelys trijuga: One of these was seen on a pool at Nagarhole. Asian House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus: Often seen around our accommodations. Four-toed Gecko Gehyra mutilata (NL): Tomas identified this at our Top Slip accommodation. Andamans Keelback Water Snake Xenochrophis melanzostus: A feisty individual was found on our last evening at Sippighat.

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 South India & the Andamans 2004 (Birdquest)