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17 FEB - 9 MAR '02 TOUR REPORT by Dave Farrow dave@shortwing.co.uk Norwich UK It was a joy to return to Thailand once more after a two year break, it remains one of my favourite places on the planet. This years Birdquest actually proved to be more successful than previous trips, breaking my record for this tour once more with 410 species! We had a whole host of birds rarely seen, two lifers for the leader including Spoon-billed Sandpiper, and five taxa of Pheasants seen superbly well. A gentle introduction to Thai birding (and the heat of Bangkok!) saw us begin at Wat Phai Lom where thousands of Openbill Storks swirled around, and Pied Fantails and a Brown-throated Sunbird enlivened the bushes. At what remains of the rather overgrown Rangsit marsh, we found Yellow Bittern, Oriental Pratincole, Baillon's Crake, numerous Black-browed Reed Warblers and a Pallas's Grasshopper Warbler that sat preening in the open. As we left the capital, our first stop was in a very lively area of saltpans where Black-capped and Collared Kingfishers lined the wires, the mud teemed with Rufous-necked and Long-toed Stints, Broad-billed and Curlew Sandpipers, Pacific Golden and Lesser Sand Plovers. Surprises came in the shape of a flock of Black-tailed Godwits and Caspian Tern, and then we ran our quarry to ground. Two Spoon-billed Sandpipers, shoving the mud around with their curious spade-foot bills as they fed in shallow pools. This rare wader seems to have begun wintering in this area, and this must now be one of the most accessible sites to see it. Celebrating with the customary superb lunch, we headed on to Kaeng Krachan where a stroll around our accommodation revealed Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Chestnut-capped Babbler, two Forest Wagtails and a very obliging Greater-necklaced Laughingthrush. Three wonderful days birding in the forests of Thailand's largest National Park started with Large-tailed Nightjars sitting on the road in the pre-dawn, regulars such as Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Orange-breasted Trogon, Spot-necked Babbler, Large Scimitar Babbler, Ashy Minivet, and birds at the northern limit of their range such as Black-thighed Falconet, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Crested Jay, Spectacled Spiderhunter, Greater Green Leafbird and Whiskered Treeswift. In the ridge-top forests we found Yellow-bellied Warbler, Thick-billed Pigeon, a noisy flock of Black-throated Laughingthrushes, Little and Barred Cuckoo Doves sitting together, White-throated Rock Thrush, and Rufous-browed Flycatcher singing from the shadows. The shy Ratchet-tailed Treepie took some time to find but we eventually enjoyed a close view of a pair carrying nest material. And then there were those ridiculously good views of two species of pheasant! The Grey Peacock Pheasant that spilled out onto the road in front of us and then paid no attention to the urgency of reaching the other side, and the pair of Silver Pheasants (of the white-legged race lineata formerly placed with Kalij Pheasant) that carried on snuffling around in the roadside ditch as we peered down on them from our vehicle! We didn't stop there though, and carried on to see a noisy gang of Dusky Broadbills, Moustached Barbets, Wreathed, Great, Brown and Oriental Pied Hornbills, a flock of rare Pin-tailed Parrotfinches feeding on flowering bamboo, Blue-bearded Bee-eaters, Buff-breasted and Puff-throated Babblers, Cinnamon Bittern and Barred Buttonquail by our accommodation, and that beautiful Blue Pitta that bounded towards us in full view across the forest floor! We paused by the saltpans once more as we headed for Khao Yai, finding Slaty-breasted Rail and Flyeater in the blazing sunshine. On reaching our night stop, we waited in the rain for the bat cave spectacular, and sure enough out they came - all 250,000 of them, while Shikras and Peregrines dived into the tight stream to snatch their supper. The cool weather passed and we had some great birding around the various points of the park, finding Scaly-breasted Partridges that were unusually confiding, Red-headed Trogons, Banded Kingfishers, Great Eared Nightjars, Greater Flamebacks, both Laced and Black-and-Buff Woodpeckers, a vocal Orange-headed Thrush, numerous Abbott's Babblers, Golden-crested Mynas and Thick billed Flowerpecker in flowering trees, one cranky Elephant, and after a lengthy search, Banded Broadbills finally revealed themselves with two noisy birds sitting high in the forest. Best of all though was the male Siamese Fireback that sauntered down the road to within 20m of the seated and rather stunned observers (just before another Silver Pheasant scuttled across!) Unfortunately though, we never heard about the tame Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo until after we had left! We made a side-trip to the Wat Thampraphotisat secreted away in rocky hills, where up a steep rocky slope we found a pair of Limestone Wren-Babblers in good voice, hopping about excitedly. Moving onwards via the smooth manoeuvre of an internal flight, we reached Chiang Mai and headed towards the first station on our northern route, finding Wire-tailed Swallows and
Ascending the slopes of Doi Chiang Dao, we found Pale Blue and Little Pied Flycatchers, Burmese Shrikes and Slender-billed Orioles. Walked on a narrow trail, we turned a corner only to be presented with the sight of a male Hume's Pheasant with his porcupine quill-like white tail waving and glinting in the sunlight! He was joined by his mate, and as they dawdled across the slope we were able to enjoy prolonged scope views. The other speciality of Giant Nuthatch took a little longer, but finally we were treated to good views of several, calling loudly from the high pines. Having done so well on our first day, we could enjoy at leisure the other birds of this mountain, such as the Long-tailed Minivet that sat on its nest peering down at our elaborate picnics, Buff-throated Warblers, Slaty Backed Flycatchers, Orange-barred Leaf Warblers and Aberrant Bush-Warblers, Bar-backed Partridge, White-browed Scimitar-Babbler, Hill Prinia, Orange-bellied Leafbird, Grey-cheeked and Brown-cheeked Fulvettas, and two Slaty-backed Forktails. A Black-tailed Crake provided some brief views as it skulked in the long grass,.the first time this rare bird has been seen on this tour At the foot of the mountain we discovered a different selection of delights, finding Wedge-tailed and Pin -tailed Pigeons, Streaked Wren-Babbler, Black-hooded Oriole, Greater Yellownape and Grey-throated Babbler. Moving northwards to the border area of Doi Ang Khang and its exciting birding, a singing Spot-breasted Laughingthrush remained unseen, unlike some obliging White-browed Laughingthrushes and Brown breasted Bulbuls. Further explorations of the ridges and valleys here provided Mountain Bamboo Partridges, Speckled and White-browed Piculets, Striated Bulbul, Red-faced Liocichla, the rarely seen Spot-throated Babbler, Spot-breasted Parrotbill, Silver-eared Mesias, Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Small Niltava, Maroon Oriole, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, some awkward Mountain Tailorbirds, White-tailed Robin, a confiding Lesser Shortwing and a party of scarce Fire-capped Tits. That perennial skulker, the Russet Bush-Warbler, sat in plain view to us singing its insect-like song, and a light passage of Oriental Honey Buzzards passed overhead. The paddyfields of northern Thailand are always thrilling and this year the delights continued with Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers flapping about in the mist, male Siberian Rubythroats, Dusky Warblers, Black-faced Buntings, Singing Bushlark, Yellow-bellied Prinia and Baya Weaver. A boat ride along the Kok river was fun but revealed few new birds, and wet paddies near Fang hosted Grey-headed Lapwings, Pintail Snipe, Citrine Wagtails and both ocularis and leucopsis forms of White Wagtails. We enjoyed a pair of Scarlet-backed Flowerpeckers attending a nest at our lunch stop, as we headed for the third and final mountain. Arriving at our Doi Inthanon accommodation, a quick stroll before nightfall came up with a pair of Rufous-winged Buzzards in the grounds of the resort. The following days on this gorgeously forested mountain (the highest in Thailand) brought a typically splendid spread of good birds. Around the summit marsh the birds are tame and confiding, and we had point-blank looks at Snowy-browed Flycatchers, White-browed Shortwing males chasing prospective mates with squeaky nuptial displays, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes, some very good looks at Dark-sided Thrushes, Orange-flanked Bush-Robin, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Yellow-browed and Yellow-cheeked Tits, Green-tailed and Mrs Gould's Sunbirds and Chestnut-tailed Minla. At middle altitudes we found a family of Rufous-winged Fulvettas having just fled their mossy nest, Black-eared and Chestnut-throated Shrike-Babblers, White-headed Bulbul, Black Baza, Besra, Spectacled Barwing, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Brown-throated Treecreeper, and Eye-browed and Grey-sided Thrushes. In the dry dipterocarp forests on the lower slopes we found both Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Collared Falconets sleepily leaving their roost-hole, Common Wood-Shrike, Large Cuckoo-Shrike, Large Hawk Cuckoo, more Rufous-winged and a single Grey-faced Buzzard. Our last morning of the tour took us the short distance from Chiang Mai to the Royal Project area of Huai Hong Khrai where the recently discovered population of Green Peafowls are found. As we arrived in the dawn, a splendid male sat up in a tree-top calling, and flocks of Lesser Whistling Ducks chuntered away on the lakes. Further exploration provided views of the local Oriental Honey Buzzards, some Tickell's Blue Flycatchers and a chance encounter with a female Siberian Blue Robin. We had a last look at Chiang Mai and the ornate temple on Doi Suthep, before it was time for a final sumptuous meal. Time also to bid farewell to the land of smiles, and return home with a rather smug one! A real feast of fantastic birds and a record-breaking total. This enchanting country has so much to offer, it's surely a must for anyone who has yet to visit! |
